Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Peter BellParticipant @peterbell11509]

I need a stepper motor to fit a specific machine and unfortunatly it's been dicontinued by arceurotrade.

Its a model 160-010-00450 from there data sheet and is 75mm square x 85mm (Nema 34?) deep with a 10mm double spindle, 3.5Nm 1.8% step.

I cannot find one the same size anywhere so supect it may have been a special and just wondered if anyone had one laying about they didnt need?

Thanks

Peter

[Nicholas LeeParticipant @nicholaslee]

Hi,

I'm trying to improve my Sieg SX3 milling machine by tramming it in properly.

(Ref this link: Sieg SX3 )

This would be straight forward on something like a Bridgeport, where you can adjust the front-back and left-right tilt angle of the head. However, the Sieg SX3 just has a square column bolted directly onto the base with four M10 bolts.

There's no way to adjust this except by loosening the bolts, slipping some combination of shims in the gaps and doing the bolts back up again.

This is a very laborious process as you have to calculate four thicknesses of shim stock (one for each bolt), based on your DTI measurements of the errors between front-back, and left-right of the stage.

I have tried doing this and I can get down to about 70um (2.75 thou) of TIR across 300mm of the stage.

This is less than half the error it was delivered with, so it is an improvement at least.

The choice of shim stock thicknesses I have seen for sale seems too limited to get any more accurate, (e.g. a 3 thou shim is too small, and a 4 thou shim is too big.)

Is there a better way of tramming a mill like this?

What is a realistic tramming accuracy to aim for on a machine of this construction?

After all, if this small milling machine flexes by 'X' amount when cutting metal, then there's little point trying to tram it more accurately than 'X'.

Regards,

Nicholas Lee

 

 

Edited By Nicholas Lee on 14/02/2017 23:53:42

[Tractor manParticipant @tractorman]

Hi Alastair.

Snap I have just bought the self same model of lathe. Very happy so far.

Does yours have a D1 3 mount? I have a Pratt burnard on one lathe and a foreign HDM on he other and they are equally good in my opinion.

I also have a Colchester 4 jaw independent and a Chinese 4 jaw self centering and again both are equally good.

But I'm greedy and have a PB multi size collet Chuck and an arc eurotrade ER 32 collet Chuck too quick make round stock holding much more accurate.

Let me know what you think of your boxford.

Mick

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Camelia oil is the trendy choice. ARC do this stuff **LINK** Which seems like a good idea. I have got some but haven't actually used it yet – fortunately rust isn't a big issue for me these days.

HTH,

Rod

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C3-Mini-Lathe-Spares/C3-55-Thread-Cutting-Charts

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C3-Mini-Lathe-Spares/C3-120-Front-Cover-Label

[LambtonParticipant @lambton]

Have a look at the ARC Eurotrade website they list several that be of help.

[Nigel McBurney 1Participant @nigelmcburney1]

I bought some ER 32 collets and the hexagon block from Arc Euro,18 months ago ,to see if they would cure the problem of holding bar in the lathe chuck without slipping,these collets can grip really tight and I can now cut the threads with a die without any slippage,recently cut some some 1/2 inch whit worth studs with only 5/8 of plain dia in the centre, though they did require a really good pull on the wrench, the bar must be clean and dry,the black gungy muck that the steel suppliers apply to prevent rust will cause slippage. The hex block can also be used in the vice,to die down threads as it is better to use a collet rather than leave the serrations from vice jaws on the work.I make a lot of coarse thread studs as I restore stationary engines, and some commercial repairs on full size steam and the collets were certainly a "best buy"two of my fellow engine restorers now use ER collets and swear by them. Last week I had to tap a quantity of nuts 1 1/8 Whit, to hold the tap I mounted it in a ER 40 23 mm collet,the collet was held in the morse tapered holder which I mounted in my home made saddle mounted 4mt holder, on the Master lathe. the collet needed a good pull on the long wrench and it worked, my recently built saddle attachment also allowed me to power feed the tapping drill , one might say a bit brutal,but I did mount up an old 3 jaw chuck and the cost of the collet was lost in the job and the customers happy.I also mounted up a 46 mm spanner to locate on the flats of the collet holder with the other end supported in the tool post,this "torque "arm took the strain off the morse taper socket.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If you were to put the empty collet into your holder and tighten it up enough to stop it turning while boring then the collet will tend to close down. IF you then bore it like that you will get a straight bore but when undone from the holder it will spring back open and you will have a bell mouthed opening.

The emergency collets come with pin as the packer but it just needs something the width of the slot, I would measure with feeler gauges and then mill a bit of scrap aluminium to thickness then cut small bits to place in the slots at the outer end of the collet.(both ends for collets that close at bothe ends) You are aiming to stop the collet closing down but at the same time don't want to force it open.

A similar method is used when machining soft chuck jaws or regrinding old chuck jaws where a spacing ring allows you to close teh jaws up tight but at the same time holding them open.

These are 5C emergency collets with the spacing pins in place.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I use CCMT060204 and CCGT 060204 from JB in one of their toolholders.

You do need to work them hard to get good results, but a decent depth of cut is more important than sheer speed – they are not good at the light shaving cuts HSS excels at. This means a bit of planning to make sure your sizing cut is not too light.

I've also found ArcEuros inserts work well, but I've only tried their parting ones.

One oddity I came across recently was some really nasty stainless. The carbide was making it work harden causing poor surface finish and difficulty of follow up cuts. In the end I use my tangential HSS tool but it needed to be kept very sharp – honed after every few runs.

I have a mini-lathe.

Neil

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Paul,

As Ronan says; sharp cutters and coolant, and yes, there are special milling cutters for aluminium, see here, or here. I havent tried them myself, I just use new slot drills.

Thor

[Nigel McBurney 1Participant @nigelmcburney1]

I prefer 8 inch grinders to 6 inch grinders, with a larger wheel the hollow ground effect is less which gives a stronger edge to a tool bit. My 8 inch grinder with 3/4 in wide wheels is Warco and made in europe,is now quite old and still going strong,about 10 years ago I bought another 8 inch grinder from warco ,far eastern manufacture,not as good,vibrates a bit but it works,it has 1 1/4 inch wide wheels, this enables me to grind drills up to 2 inch dia . Machine shops in the 1950s tended to use floor standing grinders with at least 12 inch dia wheels real steady machines with rigid tool rests and never seemed to go wrong.

[Danny M2ZParticipant @dannym2z]

These work well – just remember, the curve is a RADIUS so us half the thickness of the key for a smooth curve. **LINK**

* Danny M *

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I'm here.

To be honest I am surprised I looked at this thread – 'Hydraulic Press' doesn't really seem to be intended to get my attention… contrary to popular opinion I don't read EVERYTHING!

Cripes should you use a 4 or a 10 ton press?

I used some 1" angle iron, plenty of M10 studding and a picador flywheel puller.

Rather than dig up my article, you can follow Arc Euro Trade's photo-based step by step here:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/C3_BC/pages/

But if you don't want to use a press, you should be able to drift the spindle out of the front bearing without any damage . My description of how to do this on an X2 mill (which is effectively the same spindle) is here:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/reviews/MEW201_p52_58_X2_Mill.pdf

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 03/02/2017 19:40:02

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 31/01/2017 14:25:24:

Posted by Ian Phillips on 30/01/2017 21:48:57:
I would be quite happy to buy a counterbore from ARC but their M4 one is the same size as the one I already have so (JS)I'm not sure what you mean by choice?

**LINK**

Rod

The M4 counterbore OD in that set is even larger (at 8.5mm) than the other solid counterbore that ARC sell. There is no way I would put an M4 caphead in a 8.5mm counterbore, apart from the crude appearance the counterbore would break out of the edge of the part (say a flange) where the fixings are close to the edge.

The choice is not to purchase but to carry on using the ones I have made, my query was 'why' they were so large.

Ian P

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Posted by Ian Phillips on 30/01/2017 21:48:57:
I would be quite happy to buy a counterbore from ARC but their M4 one is the same size as the one I already have so (JS)I'm not sure what you mean by choice?

**LINK**

Rod

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

I have this DRO system for X and Y on my mill – **LINK**

I would like to use this LCD display with the above system – **LINK**

ARC tell me its does not work out the box as its designed for these ones – **LINK**

The say its something to do with the connector or wiring however he did go on to say that some people have got it to work.

Just wondering if anyone had done this?

Edited By petro1head on 27/01/2017 09:59:03

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Posted by Russell Eberhardt on 21/01/2017 11:11:34:

Posted by petro1head on 21/01/2017 10:45:42:I am starting to come round to the idea of one of these. The main benefit is its size. **LINK** . How would I clamp them down?

Use a couple of simple purpose made clamps as shown in my photo above.

Russell

Any chance you can give the dimensions of the clamp you use please

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hi Danny,

This applies specifically to Dannys question with regard to overseas sales:

I understand where you are coming from. What you have stated comes out of our terms and conditions for overseas customers (excluding U.K. & EC Terms) from this link. For overseas customers, this is strongly worded with reference to cost of returns. I am sorry to say that this came about mainly from certain cases we had, specifically from Australia, at the time when we used to accept PayPal. Without getting into detail, a minority of customers at the time wanted things for free.

However, we treat each overseas situation on a case by case basis. Here are examples of overseas sales with issues within the last few weeks, and how we dealt with them:

1. SX1LP went to France..Got smashed in transit… replacement sent yesterday. Looking at the pictures of smashed machine – no point to bring it back (at our cost), so we agreed with the customer that he sould keep the smashed bits. No cost to the customer.

2. New wedge type toolpost 111 went to Sweden. Original catalogue and web picture shows product with ground bright finish on dovetail. Eventually when goods came in, checked and sent, they are ground and then black finished. He was unhappy, and we agreed to have it back becasue he had purchased based on ground bright finish. Picture has been updated now. He did not agree with our comments. We agreed to take it back and pay return carriage, because he had purchased on the basis on the original picture on the website, and this observation was critical. In his case, we also agreed to refund the original outgoing cost based on this. He then said he lost the packing, and we still agreed to accept it based on the original observation. Total costs well over £60.00. He does not wish to talk or deal with us… and he does not want to return the post.

We aim/try to treat people the way we would like to be treated. Our Terms for overseas sales are strong to protect all concerned, and at the same time designed to deal with certain people who we wish to avoid.

For U.K. sales, the terms are here. they are clear, and in compliance with current U.K. regulations, which by the way are now more loaded in the sellers favour. Again, we aim to treat a person in the way we would like to be treated. Where we have made a mistake, we correct it and pay the costs of return. For damaged or faulty goods, again, we bare the costs both ways, and/or deal with situation with the person concerned to come to a workable solution. Still we have some people (extreamly few) who think we work like 'an email fashion outlet like Next for example', and demand that we pay carriage both ways – the initial outgoing and return, for something they ordered incorrectly. We point them to our Terms.

Ketan at ARC.

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

Thanks for that Harold. I received a new set of parallels from ArcEuroTrade today, so now I can keep them safe from harm! (instead of using old pieces of foam rubber which get tangled in the drill)

[Bill Davies 2Participant @billdavies2]

I bought a GH universal mill plus various bits of tooling from Warco April last year. I had spent about a year, on and off, comparing models and brands, and building up a spreadsheet to compare features. I trawled websites comparing the quality of service people had received, and the arguments for and against old European/modern Chinese machines.

Having worked in several FE colleges, I knew that many had ‘good old’ machines, but also how poor the condition was of many of them, after 40 or so years in the hands of beginners. At my last college, I was responsible for replacing old Colchester lathes with new ones. The old ones were becoming unreliable and having multiple faults, like an old car, and getting beyond repair. I twice visited Warco at Chiddingfold from South Wales, looking at second-hand machines, and came close to purchasing something each time.

In the end I bought new, and I’m happy with my mill. The electrics (1ph) contains nice contactors made by Siemens with low voltage care of a chinese transformer, all wires numbered. The paintwork is adequate, but chips easily on edges, Warco green, not my preferred colour, but pretty much what I was surrounded with when I worked in industry. The tee slots came filled with a thick brittle black paint (over swarf) that prevented tee nuts sliding until it was scraped away. Perhaps it was to protect the slots during shipping? No heavy anti-rust treatment (cosmoline to US), so it was easy to clean up, no corrosion visible.

Several items, including stand, were not available at the time, but were delivered on back orders. Warco updated me as required, by email and phone. Roger Warren was helpful. I bought a vice from Axminster, as Warco didn’t have the size I wanted at the time. Once run in, it’s no noisier in a standard garage than I would expect, especially in lower speeds. I have cut cast iron, mild steel and 1/4” thick gauge plate, and lightly skimmed a case hardened angle plate, all with HSS end mills.

I hope this helps others, who may be unsure (as I was) about an expensive decision.

Bill

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

I decided to buy the ARC Precision Tool Vices Type 2, 90mm http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/Precision-Tool-Vices-Type-2

Many thanks for all the help

Edited By petro1head on 21/01/2017 16:43:01

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by petro1head on 21/01/2017 10:45:42:I am starting to come round to the idea of one of these. The main benefit is its size. **LINK** . How would I clamp them down?

Use a couple of simple purpose made clamps as shown in my photo above.

Russell

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Posted by Ajohnw on 21/01/2017 10:53:36:

It's possible to buy ones that come in 2 halves that are fastened down in the T slots on the table. I've been tempted several times but good ones are usually rather expensive.

It's possible to use the arc one shown in the photo without the rotary base – more headroom if needed. The jaw faces can also be repositioned. As they can be removed soft ones could be made to machine as needed. Also given that we generally have lower power machines larger ones to fit on the opposite sides of the jaws.

Arc won't let me post a direct link to the image that shows what I mean to stop others pinching it. It's image 4 on this page

**LINK**

They may be available at larger sizes some where. MscDirect did have them as well.

I have mixed feelings about the downwards force aspect.

John

–

I know it looks good its just the size of it. This is also very similar **LINK**

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

It's possible to buy ones that come in 2 halves that are fastened down in the T slots on the table. I've been tempted several times but good ones are usually rather expensive.

It's possible to use the arc one shown in the photo without the rotary base – more headroom if needed. The jaw faces can also be repositioned. As they can be removed soft ones could be made to machine as needed. Also given that we generally have lower power machines larger ones to fit on the opposite sides of the jaws.

Arc won't let me post a direct link to the image that shows what I mean to stop others pinching it. It's image 4 on this page

**LINK**

They may be available at larger sizes some where. MscDirect did have them as well.

I have mixed feelings about the downwards force aspect.

John

–