Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

I've had an X3 mill for quite a few years now but in an idle moment wondered how the fine feed on the SX3 is coupled /decoupled from the quill handle such that the worm is not jammed solid when the quill handle is used.

Can't see anything obvious on the exploded view nor the dismantling guide on the arceuro website

Sieg SX3 Exploded Parts Diagram

Sieg SX3 Dismantling Guide

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Colin Whittaker on 31/12/2017 09:39:00:

I have a Model BB 22A Cutting Machine manufactured by the Beike Machine Tool Factory of Bengbu Machine Tool Industry Company.

Although my Chinese lathe is working well enough I can feel a little shake on the headstock bearing and I think I may have to change it. The documentation that came with the lathe is pretty minimal but I think the offending item is a 15 x 32 x 9 bearing. Can anyone point me towards any step by step guides for this repair job on this specific lathe? Any youtube videos?

Hi Colin,

If it is the same lathe as in SOD's link, then it looks like a good heavy kit. I would like to suggest that the headstock bearings are bigger than the specifications you state: 15 x 32 x 9 (6002-zz or 2RS). These bearings are more likely to be some countershaft bearings perhaps or some mistake?

If your spindle has an MT3 taper, then the spindle bearings are likely to have a bore of 30mm or greater.

Does your manual have some kind of exploded parts diagram? Could you take a picture and post it on here?

Have a closer look at where the chuck is mounted. Is it mounted onto a separable backplate or is the chuck mounted directly onto the spindle flange?

Is the chuck an 80mm chuck?

Can you open the side gear box, take a picture of that area and post it here?

If it is a mini-lathe on steroids, then the principles of dismantling should be similar. However, the 6 step speed suggests some kind of belt drive, in place of the hi-low gear arrangement to be found on the original brushed motor mini-lathe.

If it is similar to a mini-lathe, this guide may help you, although the bearings may be a little different, and there may not be a countershaft for high low speed gear change. Also here is the Link to full dismantling of a C3 (not SC3).

Ketan at ARC

[Peter Simpson 1Participant @petersimpson1]

I have Boxford ME lathe and would like to fit a 6" independent four jaw chuck. I have seen several 160 mm chucks, Arc Euro have a slim body version that looks ok. The problem nobody seems to supply a back plate to suite. Is there anyway round this problem ?

[Mark KilgoreParticipant @markkilgore24274]

ArcEuroTrade calls them "Morse Taper Straight Sockets", but catalog them only in 1MT and 2MT. Still, that might broaden your search.

[Richard MarksParticipant @richardmarks80868]

Brian

My answer was intended to help Colin with his problem, Ketan at Arceurotrade is an expert on Bearings and he sells all types of them, I have had problems with various bearing related problems over the years and Ketan has come up with the answer everytime, As Colin has the measurements of the bearing Arceurotrade should be his first call.

Richard

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Not sure this is allowed if not delete

This thread reminded me that I bought of of these **LINK**, need to check the size, but never used it. I did make some clamps to hold it to the table.

If your interested let me know and I will check the size

[Richard MarksParticipant @richardmarks80868]

Contact Ketan at Arceurotrade, he knows all about these things.

[sean logieParticipant @seanlogie69385]

Posted by duncan webster on 01/01/2018 00:01:19:

The arc euro looks more useful as it has slots in the side to clamp it to the table. However, how do you move the jaw on either, I cant see any clamp screw. Or does the angled one somehow traverse the moving jaw.

This will suit my needs , for it's compactness it' still has 4" jaw opening . There are slots underneath that a hardened Tee pin if you like sits in then you use the allen key to take up the slack by pulling down and towards the fixed jaw .

Sean

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

I, too, bought one from Arc Euro Trade, preferring the slots to anchor it to the table of the Perfecto shaper that I acquired recently. Works well and is ideally sized for the purpose.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

The arc euro looks more useful as it has slots in the side to clamp it to the table. However, how do you move the jaw on either, I cant see any clamp screw. Or does the angled one somehow traverse the moving jaw.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Mine is only 70mm and it came from our reliable supplier Arceurotrade.

Perhaps a little more expensive (actually I doubt it) but no risk of getting a wrong un.

Works well enough.

Edited By not done it yet on 31/12/2017 22:50:07

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by Vic on 31/12/2017 12:45:10:

I’m not sure why Kurt vices are so popular in America unless it’s because they’re made over there. They seem pretty tall losing you Z height on a modest size mill and the gap in the middle makes holding small parts problematic compared to a solid vice design. Having said that the Italian vices that use a similar no-lift design look very nice nice and are lower profile than the Kurt. Like the Kurt though they are quite pricey.

They've done a very good job playing the patriotic card. It's true that they are good, accurate vises but there are plenty others out there too. It seems you have no business posting a Youtube video or forum post over there without the obligatory blue Kurt logo winking at you, ideally a gang of 2 or more. Seems to be the first thing to buy for the "shop" in most of their books. If you go for a more generic "angle lock" (Kurt clone) design that is made to a good quality standard (eg the Arc Euro Versatile vises), I expect you would avoid the Xmas cracker end of the market but get similar performance for a fraction of the cost of a genuine Kurt.

Building on the obligatory Kurt vise, the latest "approved" upgrade for the patriotic Mercan is the Carvesmart quick change jaw system. The starter kit comes in at a cool $300 and that's before you actually get around to buying additional sets of jaws. How could you manage without?

But the latest fad over on US Youtube seems to be these blessed "quick change pallet" systems. Quite why a small machinist or hobby user would want to blow a couple of grand on one of those is beyond me. But they sure look good, even if they must add significant mass (inertia) to your CNC table.

Murray

[MalcParticipant @malc]

Hi “Grotto”

I fitted the cross slide mod to my ML7. I replaced the cross slide end bracket with the top slide bracket as a temporary measure. To use the top slide bracket I made an adaptor plate which enabled me to fit it to the cross slide. This was simply a 6mm thick plate measuring 90 x 20mm. 2 holes were drilled in the plate to line up with the threaded holes on the end of the cross slide. Another 2 holes were drilled and threaded 2BA to accept the top slide bracket. I seem to remember that I had to space out the cross slide screw to compensate for the difference in the length of the 2 brackets. A bit of a “mackel up” but it was sufficient for the job. To steady the top slide (as it now had no end cap) I tightened one of the gib strip screws. I bored out the cross slide bracket by mounting it on a piece of flat stock held in the 4 jaw chuck, much the same as suggested by Arc Eurotrade. After doing the cross slide bracket and replacing it I also did the top slide bracket. Considering the cost the mod is well worth doing, the action is much smoother. True, it doesn’t reduce the end play, that is wear in the screw assembly. I have found that fitting a DRO takes the guesswork out of end play problems. Food for thought if you decide to have a go at it!

Malc.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Since the HV4 lacks slots, you can't extend the slots for vertical mounting as I did on my HV6.

BUT, what are the possibilities of milling a slot around each side, so that it can be clamped like the precision vices in the Arc Euro catalogue? Being below the level of the Table, they, and the clamp screws, should not be in the way of either an over hanging workpiece, or a cutter.

Howard

[GrottoParticipant @grotto]

I haven't got a mill, so mod will have to be done on the lathe (as shown on Arc Euro site). It doesn't look too difficult.

I'm also not sure I have the required experience or skill to make a new on from scratch, even if I had a mill, maybe one day…

I may keep an eye out for a housing online, as I'm nervous If it goes wrong I'll end up in a worse position, as getting a replacement down here would be difficult & expensive

Will also check if the housing on my vertical slide is interchangeable.

Thanks for the advice

[Gordon AParticipant @gordona]

I carried out this mod on a used housing bought from a popular online auction site. All work was done on an ML7 following the instructions supplied and the results are very good.

It makes adjustment of the backlash in the housing very easy and gives a smoother feel to the operation of the cross slide.

Another benefit is that it eliminates wear between the housing and the shaft of the screw, but as mentioned above, it will not eliminate any wear in the screw itself or the whitemetal nut.

IMHO, for the cost of the parts this is a worthwhile modification. (No connection with ArcEuro, just a satisfied customer).

[GrottoParticipant @grotto]

I was wondering if anyone had fitted the arc euro Myford ML7 Cross Slide Leadscrew Thrust Bearing Modification?

I've got a reasonable amount of back lash and as thought this may help, but wondered if anyone had tried it?

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/MYF001/myford-cstb-mod.html

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Assuming your spin indexer is 5C then you can either get a 5C to ER32 converter or if your indexer came from ARC Eurotrade then it will have a threaded nose to take a special ER32 Nut and have been supplied with a suitable reduction sleeve.

 

Edited By JasonB on 24/12/2017 15:41:40

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

Arceurotrade do a Spin Indexer that takes 5c and ER32 collets.

Mike

[jann westParticipant @jannwest71382]

The same sieg lathes are rebadged by a number of UK importers … chester, warco, axminster, arc eurotrade.

If you are OK with 2nd hand and a little patient … ebay and gumtree can unearth some bargains.

you could try the following ebay search:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fcid=3&_clu=2&gbr=1&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=%28sieg%2C%20axminster%2C%20chester%2C%20warco%29%20lathe&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=4&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

As an SC4 owner, I can say they are good lathes. A bit more capacity than the usual hobby lathe, solid, accurate and powerful.

The other main seller is Arc Euro Trade. Axminster costs a little more but offers an extended warranty. You pays yer money, you takes yer choice…

I think there are two versions with different between centre distances.

Neil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

As mentioned in Part 2 of my Milling for Beginners Series here are some links to the products featured in the article that are available from the series sponsor ARC Euro Trade Ltd.

 

R8 Collets and Morse Taper Collets

R8 End Mill Holders and End Mill Holders for MT2 & MT3 spindles

ER Collet Chucks and sets for R8, Morse Taper and with straight shanks

Individual ER Collets and Low Friction bearing nuts

Drill Chucks and Arbors including the Mini Drill Adaptor

Boring Heads and Boring & Facing Heads

Fly Cutters

Milling and Saw Arbors

Shell Mill Arbors

The introduction should have read "This new series will build into a complete guide to using a milling machine. This month Jason Ballamy looks at the Mill’s spindle taper and the range of tools available to use in it" but it looks like someone forgot to change it from last months.

Edited By JasonB on 22/12/2017 17:35:33

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

ARC's uncoated ones that are specifically made for aluminium work well for me though the 6mm can chatter a bit due to them being long series in which case I use nncoated FC-3 cutters. Or he does have standard length in carbide specifically for ali.

 

Edited By JasonB on 22/12/2017 13:18:24

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

I currently use Arc Titan coated 3 flute end mills – http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Milling-Cutters/ARC-Premium-HSS-AL-End-Mills/3-Flute-HSS-AL-End-Mill-Standard-Length-TiAlN-Coated

However they quite often get clogged meaning I have stop and scrape the alloy off the end of the tool.

Any suggestions of what would be better. Ie 2 flute or split else

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

I'm sure these would be fine. You are mainly interested in identifying the pitch and possibly the angle.

The other part of the puzzle is identifying the correct standard used from the pitch and diameter you have found (metric fine or coarse, UNC /UNF / BSW etc). For this it's handy to get some Zeus tables.

Murray