Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Bob LambParticipant @boblamb44747]

Thanks for all the comments. The main thing I have learnt is that questions about the universe are totally beyond me let alone the answers!

My conclusions:

1. I will accept Neil’s word that the Universe isn’t expanding into anything. (I don't know why but I trust Neil)

2. I accept there was no fuse to light for the Big Bang. Apparently it was just an unsafe early model “Arthur Dent “ tea making machine which exploded – he didn’t get the recall notice from the store in time and just look at the unintended consequences.

3. However, the question about Santa does still intrigue me. Aside from how he manages to travel the entire world in one night, make a shopping list for the many billion people he visits and then actually have time to go shopping I simply don’t understand. The one thing I hope I know is that he MIGHT have visited Arc Euro recently and, if so, Ketan may have a clue. I suspect though that Ketan may claim commercial confidentiality as he probably wouldn’t want to upset one of his really good customers!

So it’s back to the infinite probability drive as the only understandable way of solving this little problem. Happy Christmas – Bob

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hi Martin,

The Portuguese maker is Tomé Feteira and the files, as much as I know, are usually sold as "Tomé Feteira hand files".
In UK I know they are sold at least by ArcEurotrade.

Dias Costa

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hello everyone reading this thread,

Wherever possible, we have been using Royal Mail 1st class for the past week for parcels weighing upto 2kg. This would have been split between 1st and 2nd pre the festive period. Everything else over 2 kg. upto 30kg has been shipped through Parcelforce next day delivery as standard policy.

For overseas customers, for small weight/value shipments, (very few) we use Royal Mail International Signed For service. For majority of our parcels sent to overseas destinations, we were using mainly Parcelforce and Fedex combination, pre the festive period. However, Parcelforce advised us of closure issues at Calais on 11th December, delays which in turn effected all European deliveries. So we switched all such shipments from there on to Fedex for European and world destinations. We will continue with Fedex for outside U.K., until the new year, by which time we are hopeful that Parcelforce issues will be resolved, and we will then spread the overseas load over these two service providers.

There may be occasions during this period when a customer may experience delays. We apologise for this delay, and we hope to resolve such issues. Next day deliveries are not guaranteed, and we hope to meet majority of expectations.

The team and I at ARC are grateful for the business, help and support from members of this forum. We are aware that you have a choice in your buying habit or preference, so we thank you for choosing to purchase from us.

Over this year, we may have offended some people in some way. If you happen to be a person to whom this applies, and if you are reading this thread, please accept our apology. Life is too short…

Merry Christmas to all.

Ketan at ARC.

[Bill DawesParticipant @billdawes]

I have used ARC Eurotrade many times, likewise my wife for presents.

She asked me to post here praising once again their excellent service.

If you can impress the good ladies of us ME types Ketan then you are doing everything right, thank you.

Present was a precision vice by the way.

Bill D.

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

Recently had to open an 11.2 MM hole to 12 MM, the object in question was a quick change tool post, it was hardened steel, not sure what hardness but bloody hard. I tried 12 MM cobalt drills but gave them up after wrecking 3, then found that a 12 MM diamond core drill as sold by Arceurotrade managed the job not quite like a knife through butter but at least it made it through. I would suggest that you probably will need some sort of diamond cutting tool.

Dave W

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Enquire at Arceurotrade? I am positively certain that Ketan, for sure, can fix you up with something appropriate for your needs.

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Hello Stig,

The gear dimensions are:-

Bore 0.500 inch with 0.125 inch keyway. Wheel width is 0.500 inches. All the gears are 20 DP of 14.5 degree pressure angle. I imagine genuine Holbrook gears will be hard to find so it might be helpful for you to know that Myford change wheels will fit. They are also 20 DP, and of the correct pressure angle and of course readily available. They are a bit narrower at 0.375 inches and the bores will need to be sleeved down from 0.625 inches and have a new keyway cut

I have a factory copy of the metric tooth chart for those lathes but you might like to know there is another full set of gear charts in my book 'Gearing of lathes for Screwcutting' which also gives tables for Metric, BA, DP, Module and a number of more obscure pitches.

ArcEuro stock the book which was written and published before I was kindly sent the Holbrook metric and BA gearing tables.

I can't however help you with your apron cross feed problem, I don't own one of these lathes but I do not imagine it is too difficult.

Regards Brian

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Most pleas on the forum are greeted freely with offers of help – it being mostly in the form of written assistance and some offers of practical help – the emphasis on the 'free' bit. It is partly what the forum is about.

The best suggestion I can offer is for you to use the PM system, should you think a particular poster might be likely to take up your offer. Of course, taking care not to be a nuisance to members.

Some may ignore you, some may politely decline and a minority might complain loudly. Depends on if you only contactvthe once, or more often! Explaining your situation to each might be good, too.

Cup Alloys, Arceuro and amadeal(?sp) all certainly help people on the forum, while not directly pushing their wares. A service, rather than marketing goods, is a little different. Helping someone to achieve a result would be viewed differently to offering ready-made tool holders at below market value, per eg.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Hugh, the one on your site only shows 22 items in the box and there is no mention of extensions in the description.

Is it just a generic photo and misleading description with another typo?

You can clearly see the extensions in the photo from ketan's site. Funny enough the only other people I can see selling this set are Shars in the US who want £209 for it ($279) before taxes.

[Hugh Stewart-Smith 1Participant @hughstewart-smith1]

Posted by JasonB on 11/12/2017 14:43:22:

Posted by Hugh Stewart-Smith 1 on 11/12/2017 13:18:12:

but i'd suggest confirming with the supplier as the distance from the ram down might be critical depending on your requirements. .

The set I linked to from ARC is actually a 26pc set and includes extensions which would save any problems if you are lacking in the ram department.

That nice man Ketan even has an article telling you how to use and get the most from your broaches which I doubt the cheapie Chinease cappie will, at least not in a way you could understand

hi JasonB it was a typo on my part – the set is actually a 26pc set that I came across having 4 extension pieces.

I'm wondering if it was an assumption on your part that the item was from a Chinese seller – the set is actually available on a next day basis so in all probability rules out shipping from a far off land!

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by Hugh Stewart-Smith 1 on 11/12/2017 13:18:12:

but i'd suggest confirming with the supplier as the distance from the ram down might be critical depending on your requirements. .

The set I linked to from ARC is actually a 26pc set and includes extensions which would save any problems if you are lacking in the ram department.

That nice man Ketan even has an article telling you how to use and get the most from your broaches which I doubt the cheapie Chinease cappie will, at least not in a way you could understand

[Raymond AndersonParticipant @raymondanderson34407]

Martin, Yes I have a Warco GH750 bought new circa 2001 still going great to this day. Only thing I have ever had fail was the halogen bulb [ a few years back ] As soon as I got it I did replace the original motor with a new Siemens 3 ph 3 hp one running of a Eurotherm 650 drive [ now made by Parker SSD ] never had even the slightest problem with Lathe, drive, or motor. It has seen [ and still sees ] a lot of use, and is still bang on to this day. I thought the GH750 was now discontinued. No experience of the Chester CUB

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

They would be OK with a press, depending on if you get charged VAT, import duty and post office charge it may be cheaper to get a set from ARC

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Choosing between HSS and Carbide is an old-chestnut. As a cack-handed beginner myself here's my take:

• HSS vs Carbide may not matter much to a beginner – they both cut metal.
• The downside of HSS is that it has to be kept sharp. This means buying a grinder and learning how to use it. Grinding is a skill that some find easier than others. I'm not very good at it. I'm afraid that chaps good at grinding 'it's easy' often forget that beginners struggle with it.
• The downside of carbide is that the start up cost is more than HSS because you have to buy holders. Also, carbide works best at high-speed, not ideal if you are a slow worker with old equipment.
• With experience you can change your mind. It doesn't mean much but I use HSS about 25% of the time, mainly because carbide on my machine doing the sort of work I do is usually more convenient. If I could only have one system, it would be HSS. Fortunately I'm allowed to use either!

If your lathe has a maximum spindle speed less than, say, 1800 rpm, then go HSS. Buy a grinder and learn how to use it. You can simplify sharpening and learn about common tip shapes by starting with an HSS toolset like this:

The photo is from the ArcEuroTrade website. They will be delighted to sell you one, other vendors are available.

If your lathe can do more than 1800rpm then Carbide is probably a better choice for rank beginners. All you have to do is mount the tool at centre height and away you go. Using carbide has the important advantage of removing the need to learn a new skill at a time when a beginner is already overloaded with workshop mysteries! ArcEuroTrade are worth a look because they carry a simplified range of holders and inserts suitable for most hobby purposes. In contrast a general search of carbide inserts on the web is liable to leave the beginner feeling like a rabbit caught in headlights!

The important thing is to make a start.

Dave

[Hugh Stewart-Smith 1Participant @hughstewart-smith1]

hello Lee. If you want to be up and turning right away, can I suggest the purchase of an inexpensive set of 11 piece lathe tools with brazed-on carbide tips? They retail at around £25. I recommend them to beginners so that they have a range of turning tools, parting-off tool etc. and can be used (and abused) right away. As you develop your skills then think about the indexable type or grinding HSS or even purchasing pre-formed HSS tools.

These sets are widely available from sources such as ArcEuroTrade, RDG, Chronos and from us at Amadeal.

Hugh

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by SteveI on 06/12/2017 21:01:52:

Do you have a link to a standard blade holder either 19 or 26 size that takes these sandvik tips?

Most suppliers keep these parting tools, eg Arc, APT Tools and all the usual ebay / Ali Express traders.

Murray

[John McNamaraParticipant @johnmcnamara74883]

If its for industrial or serious hobby use allow for a power feed unit. Spindle moulders are high risk noisy dust making machines, the further your fingers are away from the cutter the better. The cutter try's to push the material away (or even throw it!), you need to apply a fair bit of pressure to the work that tends to be down and toward the cutter and back fence, the power feed will help a lot, depending on the work you are doing it may not be practical to guard the cutter. You only get one set of fingers. If you have not used one before try to find someone that has and take their advice seriously.

**LINK**

One cutter set can produce a number of patterns, this is done by adjusting the position of the work and the up or down position of the spindle. When selecting them bear this in mind.

If you need a special design some saw sharpening / cutter suppliers can CNC generate a special cutter set to match your machine from a cad file of the outline automatically.

I did this for a recent project, we needed to match up existing heritage mouldings. The work was sent out to a wood craftsman's shop. as I no longer run a shop.

When in business we never needed a tilting head. I guess it depends on the type of work you do.

**LINK**

Look for a solid machine with a cast iron table, heavier is likely to be better. You may be able to pick up a good European made machine second hand machine make sure you can see it running. We rather liked SCM Italian woodworking machines, I still have an SCM sliding panel saw waiting for a bigger shed to put it in.

Regards
John

[Martin DowingParticipant @martindowing58466]

Posted by Fowlers Fury on 03/12/2017 22:32:41:

(1) "only 11.43% of reports (not 93.75% as you claim) are recording skin irritation."
I am not claiming that, it is reproduced from the literature.
(2) "R(risk) and S(safety) phrases are assigned to chemicals by concensus in an expert committee of the EU. The risk phrases are somewhat of a misnomer because they are hazard phrases but distinguishing between those 2 concepts is linguistically difficult elsewhere in Europe.You are of course free to make your personal assessment of risk with "My own impression about copper citrate is that it is relatively harmless compound".
(3) "From my own long industrial experience as research chemist I have found that most of risks assesments are rather political/legal documents of very limited value in real life".
From my long experience as a toxicologist in the chemical industry I have a different view.
(4) "Their [risk assessments] production is a great time wasting exercise and it is sometimes actually endangering health of workers because they are first forced to produce this nonsense to satisfy legal requirements"
As a past member of the HSE's Advisory Committee on Toxic Substances, I assure you the TUC, CBI and HSE members think otherwise.
(5) I also use dil HCl to remove Cu oxide.

"it is reproduced from literature"

Not really. Link specified by you is claiming explicitly "H315.(11.43%) causes skin irritation", *You* are claiming 93.75% contrary to link which you have submitted yourself. So perhaps read it again.

"R(risk) and S(safety) phrases are assigned to chemicals by concensus in an expert committee of the EU"

There are plenty of commities in the EU, unfortunately most of them entirely useless.

"As a past member of the HSE's Advisory Committee on Toxic Substances, I assure you the TUC, CBI and HSE members think otherwise."

Who cares what they think? Industry is moving production to China and elsewhere and they have nothing to say there. Bureaucrats you mention are one of many causes of pending economic ruin of West where everything is outsourced and only bankrupt banksters and hopelessly indebted public is left.

Martin

[Fowlers FuryParticipant @fowlersfury]

(1) "only 11.43% of reports (not 93.75% as you claim) are recording skin irritation."
I am not claiming that, it is reproduced from the literature.
(2) "R(risk) and S(safety) phrases are assigned to chemicals by concensus in an expert committee of the EU. The risk phrases are somewhat of a misnomer because they are hazard phrases but distinguishing between those 2 concepts is linguistically difficult elsewhere in Europe.You are of course free to make your personal assessment of risk with "My own impression about copper citrate is that it is relatively harmless compound".
(3) "From my own long industrial experience as research chemist I have found that most of risks assesments are rather political/legal documents of very limited value in real life".
From my long experience as a toxicologist in the chemical industry I have a different view.
(4) "Their [risk assessments] production is a great time wasting exercise and it is sometimes actually endangering health of workers because they are first forced to produce this nonsense to satisfy legal requirements"
As a past member of the HSE's Advisory Committee on Toxic Substances, I assure you the TUC, CBI and HSE members think otherwise.
(5) I also use dil HCl to remove Cu oxide.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

This is what happens when a silly old duffer tries to turn a slotted ½" square aluminium rod down to 6mm diameter. I should have expected trouble with this horrible interrupted cut but things have been going well for me recently.

It doesn't jump out from the photo but in addition to the obvious damage the whole square rod is bent by about 10° at the jaws.

This cock-up is the result of a powered 0.5mm deep cut at 2200 rpm with a small ArcEuroTrade carbide insert (the sharp silver type for non-ferrous metals). I noticed the far end of the rod cutting rough due to slight chatter and was wondering what to do about it next time round. Bang – too late! Despite the spectacular bending resulting from the dig in the insert survived. I thought the sharp tip at least would be gone but it's OK.

Lessons learned:

• cut the slot AFTER turning the rod.
• don't dither if something complains whilst cutting.
• carbide is tougher than Aluminium.
• Eek! that could have been a finger.

Dave

[WearyParticipant @weary]

Andrew,

If you prefer a larger display then I use this remote display from ARC combined with this type of read-out bar and reader. This combination also does away with batteries as the Remote Display Unit is mains powered through a transformer.

I have found this combination a relatively cheap, and for my purposes, accurate system. My only reservation is that the tiny and somewhat sensitive connecting plugs at the 'reader' end need looking after and occasional cleaning. I use a contact-cleaning spray to do so. (Don't want to derail the thread…. but ….any suggestions to overcome this issue most welcome).

Other suppliers available of course, but I found ARC very good.

Regards,

Phil

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

Thanks for the information gentlemen. I have had my bellyful of programming over the years and I don't want to learn any more at my age! The last programming bout was to programme PICs and in the end it turned out to be more trouble than it was worth for my application.

The Arc Eurotrade units are more in my price line, but batteries don't seem to last in my workshop, even good quality ones. I am also a bit troubled with the scales being so finicky in terms of dirt and protection. I may well give them a try, but the readouts look small and I would prefer a bigger and brighter display, but then you can't have that at the price! I suppose that they would be a good trial to see if I like the DRO system sufficiently to invest in more bomb proof mains powered kit!

Thanks again,

Andrew.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 03/12/2017 12:24:14:

John Haine got in first with Yuriy's Toys which is the closet match to your requirement I know of. But more to it than ' a good bit of soldering and board interfacing' as it involves a programming an Arduino and a Tablet Computer. By the time you've paid for the scales, the computers, power supplies, boxing it up for use in a workshop, and your time it's not exceptionally cheap.

Despite being interested in programming I chickened out and bought a pair of units like this from Warco for less than £100, ArcEuroTrade sell them too. It's their image.

Obviously these aren't as clever or robust as the more expensive units. In particular you have to keep the scales clean and the batteries charged. They are only accurate to ±0.02mm (rather better than 1 thou) However, I've been using mine with only minor glitches for over two years. The glitches were due to: flat batteries, dirty scales, misaligned scale due to a loose screw. They are as accurate as my dials and – most important – you don't have to worry about backlash.

When I bought them I wasn't completely convinced about DROs. Silly me – even a basic DRO transforms a milling machine. I'm completely sold now; if either of my cheaper DRO units fail I will cheerfully put a more expensive unit on the mill. A centralised display and controls, better accuracy, and coolant proof scales are all worth having.

Dave

+1 for the above, I've had my mill fitted with a set of these & so far the only glitch has been flat batteries, had them on getting on for 3 yrs now, so much easier & definitely more accurate.

George.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

John Haine got in first with Yuriy's Toys which is the closet match to your requirement I know of. But more to it than ' a good bit of soldering and board interfacing' as it involves a programming an Arduino and a Tablet Computer. By the time you've paid for the scales, the computers, power supplies, boxing it up for use in a workshop, and your time it's not exceptionally cheap.

Despite being interested in programming I chickened out and bought a pair of units like this from Warco for less than £100, ArcEuroTrade sell them too. It's their image.

Obviously these aren't as clever or robust as the more expensive units. In particular you have to keep the scales clean and the batteries charged. They are only accurate to ±0.02mm (rather better than 1 thou) However, I've been using mine with only minor glitches for over two years. The glitches were due to: flat batteries, dirty scales, misaligned scale due to a loose screw. They are as accurate as my dials and – most important – you don't have to worry about backlash.

When I bought them I wasn't completely convinced about DROs. Silly me – even a basic DRO transforms a milling machine. I'm completely sold now; if either of my cheaper DRO units fail I will cheerfully put a more expensive unit on the mill. A centralised display and controls, better accuracy, and coolant proof scales are all worth having.

Dave

[Phil WhitleyParticipant @philwhitley94135]

It is also known that Whittles 1930 patent was circulated throughout Europe, including the technical college where Von Ohain was studying, and later taught and did research. As far as I can tell, whittles was the first patent that went on to be a working engine. In the case of most inventions, there are people all over the world working on the same problems, first to the patent office wins, but as can be seen in the above list, first patent is not always first inventor.