Search Results for 'arc euro'

[EugeneParticipant @eugene]

In particular i have been looking at the record range.

Probably the best you can do is just look. My experience with a Chinese made Record grinder was pretty dismal.

Horribly out of balance, very poorly machined spindle, flimsy light that fell off, an all round dog. I chucked in the skip after putting a hammer to it to prevent some innocent skip diver from demolishing himself.

Arc Eurotrade sell their "Allwin" 6" and 8" bench grinders for a bit more money than the Records, but they are much superior. I use a 6" in conjunction with Harold's simple grinding jig and find it a great combination.

I've also had a second hand Warco 8"… very sturdy and smooth machine, but a bit of a lump for what I wanted.

I wouldn't use any grinder that wobbled at working speed, the potential for a catastrophic accident just isn't worth it. If your Clarke does so I'd either sort it or bin it.

Eug

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

To use the ER collets in your mill you need a chuck like this, for each size or ER collet. Not much point in buying two and two sets of collets so just get an ER32 Coller Chuck and range of ER32 collets. You save a little by purchasing a starter set with say 6 commonly used sizes then add to that as needed.

The best way to use these ER collets in your lathe is with a chuck like this as it allows long work to pass right through into the spindle, not something you need to buy straight away.

So with these two chucks the same collets can be used in either machine and also in things like collet blocks, indexers etc. Again not something you need straight away

Any MT3 taper tooling can be held in you MT4 spindle by using an adaptor this is MT4 on teh outside and will have a MT3 taper on the inside.

[colin branniganParticipant @colinbrannigan54160]

I am retiring end of March after 52 years of tool making including my apprenticeship of 5 years working first in inches until around 1980 then it was metric which was a massive change, but a change for the good as far as I could see, once you get into the swing of it is quite easy to use. I still find letter or number drills scattered around in my tool boxes, and can still remember tapping drill sizes for various Whitworth threads

Being employed by a worldwide company I had drawings in metric from Europe and Asia and sometimes drawing in inches from America, I can work in both because I have to.

As an aside Newtons are used to measure the force required to move the gear shift lever in your car if you have cable change, different car makers have different limits, 1 to 4, 4 to 6 or 6 to 8 Newtons , it use to be ounces but that was long time ago.

Colin …………….wondering if retirement will suit me

[Ross Lloyd 1Participant @rosslloyd1]

Posted by JasonB on 04/02/2018 07:55:00:

This lot came with the SX2.7, there may be one of two items there you don't really need

As has been said both Neil and Myself have a beginners series in MEW that may help you, Neil is doing the lathe and I am doing the mill.

As a basic kit for the mill

Clamps set, Vice, ER Collet and 6 collets, Lever DTI and magnetic stand, Edge/ctr finder, 6 & 10mm 3-flute cutters should bet you going, buy anything else as the need arrises.

Edited By JasonB on 04/02/2018 08:17:50

Wow, that all came included in the price? Can I ask how much you parted with for it and who you went with? On the arc-eurotrade site, that gear doesn't seem to be included unless you stump up the readies!

The kit suggestions sound good, I think I have a great shopping list now. Re: the beginner articles, my google-fu is failing me, how do you get hold of them?

Apologies for the barrage of questions, and thanks again!

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Nice one Sean… Arc Euro ?

G.

[Simon Williams 3Participant @simonwilliams3]

 

 

Hi Heidi, how many is "lots"?

Agree with the guillotine approach – either subbed to someone with the facility to supply you the banks cut to size, or cut them yourself. For moderate quantity I'd go with a bench guillotine (bench shear). ArcEuro do something they call a bench shear which is a useful sort of gadget for this kind of work. There's a knack to getting it to cut along the line you want, rather than it wants. but it'll certainly do the job. Quick and effective, reasonably flat pieces.

If you've got hundreds to do buy a small treadle operated guillotine or better still buy them ready cut.

For the circles, I assume you want the circle not the hole. If so a chassis punch used in a fly press (no pilot hole) will eat this no problem. The contour on the end of the sheet metal punch will distort the cut circle so it will need flattening as a second operation.

If you just want the hole then a chassis punch ["Q-Max cutter"] used in the normal way with a pilot hole is a bit laborious but simple and effective. There are hydraulic versions of the same process which are a bit quicker and a lot less effort.

Alternatively a proper fly press punch and die (flat ended) will give you a better (flatter) result. You could bump these out as fast as you like.

If you go the flypress route, 80 x 30 mm as a simple rectangle in 1.2 mm copper is well within the capabilities of a middle sized flypress as a punch tool, but it would mean getting a rectangle tool made for the size. But once you've got the tool, you could bang these out in style. All depends how many you want, and how much is cost effective to invest in getting to the desired result.

Hope this helps, Rgds Simon

Edited to evict a yellow winky face

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 30/01/2018 12:28:49

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

To save time, you can buy from folk like ArcEuroTrade, Chronos etc. These will be double ended, and have spare holders, so that four different sizes of die can be used.

Often, a side arm rests against the four way toolpost to resist rotation forces.

Mine is commercial, but so old can't remember its origin, probably Chronos or Warco.

Made up a similar arbor to carry a shop made ER25 Collet holder for Taps. (Used both yesterday!)

In both cases, the holder has a little clearance on the arbor, so that it can "float" and follow the workpiece, instead of trying to do a little off centre machining of its own.

Howard

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

Sadly It never seems to be cheap easily replaceable far eastern junk that gets damaged.

Touch wood I've been lucky so far with dismantling various machine tools into easily manageable lumps and transporting them in the back of a small hired van or the back of a hatchback. I think our original lathe was moved as two lumps but we were a lot fitter then. The courier used by Arc Euro delivered the X3 and stand on two pallets exactly where I wanted without any fuss using a pallet jack in no more than a few minutes. It took longer to unpack than it did to move and the bext part of a weekend to dismantle, remove the transport grease and reassemble.

A Boxford lathe I acquired more recently a few hundred miles from base was dismantled in about an hour into very manageable bits (bed, gearbox, stand, headstock, talistock, motor, saddle, apron) I then drove home and went to bed, next day just after sunrise I unloaded it onto a platform with casters bit by bit, moved them into the workshop, before dropping the van off and going to work.

It was significantly easier doing that than getting John Lewis to deliver a Fridge Freezer direct into a kitchen without going through the entire house in muddy boots.

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Ah! Before my last post I missed that you had said bed size for your model – must be my age!

As far as machine tools delivered from U.K. to France is concerned I have had good experience with Arc Eurotrade and Ketan who posts here is very helpful. There are a number of sellers of Chinese machine tools here but the prices are higher than the UK even after transport. Optimachines are one popular one.

Russell

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

well the original Bill engine was designed for hulls about 18ft long so as the model engine is 1/3rd scale you are probably looking at a hull in the region of 6ft long so your bed size was about right. At least with the Bill engine you will not have to worry about a 90deg change of direction in the drive train, looking at images of the hull structure on line you can just mount the engine on the bearers and take the propshaft out the back.

As for new machines something like a SC4 lathe and SX2 or SX2.7mill from ARC should handle it easily.

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

The screwcutting gearbox is supposed to be protected by a shear pin next to the top gear of the geartrain, so it's a bummer that yours seems to be damaged. It is really useful having power feed, even if you don't do much / any screwcutting. Do you have the full selection of gears?

Yes, the micrometer dials should move. Reasonably stiffly (spring loaded ball??) so they don't slip accidentally. Best take them apart and clean them up.

You might as well get an aftermarket coolant pump and make it single phase for simplicity. But if you find a 3-ph one off ebay etc, they are simple enough to drive from single phase with the addition of a capacitor (no more than about £4-5).

Mine is the Mk II which has a 1600rpm top speed with the two speed motor running at the higher 2880 rpm range. So if you replace the motor like me, you might as well get a 2880rpm motor rather than 1440rpm. The bearings etc are fine at this speed. Sounds as if the single phase motor isn't set up to run in reverse. I use mine a fair bit in reverse, cutting at the rear of the work eg using a boring bar for external work. Also good for screwcutting away from the chuck.

1/2kW sounds underpowered, not least with heavy grease and rusted parts. I'd suggest 1.5-2kW and get a VFD if you can afford one.

I've just had my motor off to fit a brake linkage mechanism which was missing on my machine. The linkage came from Bede Tools in Newcastle who had broken a Bantam for parts. However, I believe most of those parts had been sold and that was 2-3 years ago. But keep your eyes open and you may see another one being broken on ebay etc.

Take it apart, clean it up and make any obvious repairs as you go. Unless it's been savagely abused (sounds as if it may have been), it should be capable of good work. Sounds as if a mild renovation would be advised before you start to use it in anger.

Good luck and let us know how you get on!

Murray

Edited By Muzzer on 21/01/2018 17:34:04

[thaiguzziParticipant @thaiguzzi]

That's buggered. And not std issue. New imperial ball oilers available from RDG and metric versions from Arc Euro. Not expensive.

Normal oil can for lube.

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Have you got a copy of Arc Eurotrade's wares ? I think it is also on line. In the book they give all the Loctite references and I think (memory…) the uses of their own product.

[Mark RandParticipant @markrand96270]

|Posted by Eugene on 15/01/2018 21:09:09:

|Once again Arc Eurotrade is your friend.

 

The 6" ones are out of stock. but that's ok because the 8" one is nicer .

 

The wheels, as supplied are a soft grade AlO so good for HSS. Bit too soft for sharpening TIG tungstens, but it'll do until I make an adapter to take one of the harder wheels that's lying about in the draw.

 

I really wanted an 8" Wolf, due to the excelent tool rests, but they are now quite rare.

 

As for the Screwfix one, read the reviews. They're why I went to see Ketan

Edited By Mark Rand on 15/01/2018 21:41:49

[EugeneParticipant @eugene]

Once again Arc Eurotrade is your friend.

The Allwin 6" comes at a reasonable price, is well made and doesn't wobble all over the place. The rests are no much better than any others (they are however adjustable) so I made Harold's simple grinding rest and haven't looked back. Usual encomiums …

Eug

[Peter Hogan 2Participant @peterhogan2]

Posted by Brian Wood on 12/01/2018 19:46:28:

Peter,

Arc Euro are selling my book for £12.95 on gearing for screwcutting which describes the simple modification you can make to your S7 and use any mandrel gears up to 70 + teeth, matched with the selected gearbox choice to generate Metric, BA, DP, Module and several other threading pitches without have to buy the Myford metric quadrant

Another benefit is that you retain the fine feed option throughout and you get to keep your gearbox!!

Regards

Brian

Now that is the way to promote your hard work.

You'r the man for me, add onr to you sold list!

Pete.

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Peter,

Arc Euro are selling my book for £12.95 on gearing for screwcutting which describes the simple modification you can make to your S7 and use any mandrel gears up to 70 + teeth, matched with the selected gearbox choice to generate Metric, BA, DP, Module and several other threading pitches without have to buy the Myford metric quadrant

Another benefit is that you retain the fine feed option throughout and you get to keep your gearbox!!

Regards

Brian

[Another JohnSParticipant @anotherjohns]

Stephen;

One item that makes me love them is that, when making batches of parts, they all come out the same, as when you mount a new tool, it goes exactly where you want it to be.

One mistake I made at first was to have a handle on the toolpost that allowed me to swivel it around. It should be locked in place so that tools go back on in the correct orientation; for instance, a parting tool simply drops on, and no faffling about ensuring that it is aligned properly. One set of vees parallel to the centre line, one set at right angles – lock it down and forget about moving it after that.

I've got two QCTPs; on my smaller lathe, I have a small piston type made of aluminium, and it's not very good for taking heavy cuts, but the usefulness outweighs the flimsy-ness. It'll get replaced by a 0XA one maybe this year. (or, 000 as some suppliers, like Arc Eurotrade call the size) My larger lathe has a BXA toolpost, which is as rigid as Gibraltar.

John.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

a.- Where do I get a Fly-cutter: Most vendors sell them. Try this one, the example is a set of 3 sizes that would cover most needs: HSS tool blanks are listed too.

b. What size do I need: Not critical. Ideally big enough to smooth the area that needs flattening in one pass.

c. Any tips on how to do it: Take light cuts only. Lubricate. Keep the tool sharp. Make sure it has clearance at the side and back. Calculate rpm as 10000 divided by the side to side sweep of the tool tip in mm

d. How hard is it to learn/do ? Not very. One or two experiments should be enough. Most likely mistake is putting the tool into the holder channel the wrong way – see clearance above!

Dave

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

No doubt the Bible is LC Masons book on building the Minnie.

I bought one of the sets of 3 flycutters quite early on when I started model engineering and they still get used a lot to this day, my large MT3 one seldom sees the light of day. So I would say go for those, available from several of the ME Suppliers such as ARC.

In this day and age I expect Youtube will show you all you need to know about flycutting and a whole lot more that you don't. It is quite easy to use a flycutter once you get the grind of the tool right.

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

In fact similar to these.

**LINK**

regards Martin

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

Posted by Michael Topping on 04/01/2018 22:27:06:

I wouldn't use R8 collets for holding cutters, the cutter can wind itself out of the collet if you take a heavy cut and ruin the workpiece(or worse put a groove in your bed, rotary table etc). I prefer to use sidelock holders as sold by arceuro and others.

Michael

There is no perfect collet system, I used R8 for 35 years in industry with very little problems, you don't lose any head room, cutter can be right up in collet or further down if more reach is reqd.

Tony

[Michael ToppingParticipant @michaeltopping17870]

I have one of those and if used correctly you won't need flats on the body. The end cap should only be nipped up when installing the cutter and then should unlock if you tap the spanner with a nylon mallet or similar.

I wouldn't use R8 collets for holding cutters, the cutter can wind itself out of the collet if you take a heavy cut and ruin the workpiece(or worse put a groove in your bed, rotary table etc). I prefer to use sidelock holders as sold by arceuro and others.

Michael

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

+2 for John Haine's suggestion – do what 90% of Mercans do and go for the "R8 collet" system. You end up with almost zero stickout, much improved rigidity and a simpler arrangement requiring no C spanners and indeed no chuck as such. Available from all the usual outlets such as Arc Euro and RDG.

You possibly didn't realise it at the time you bought your machine but very few end mills are threaded these days so you will probably end up paying through the nose over the years if you persist with your current chuck.

Murray

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Ernie Smith 1 on 31/12/2017 12:25:26:

Hi, I usually subscribe to the RCM&E model aeroplane forum, but have a wee problem that you guys might help me solve

I'm setting up a clarke CL300 lathe, and have a problem with the apron. The manual saddle feed gears are not a close fit to the teeth under the bed, so there is a lot of slop. I guess the gears could be raised by quite a few mm, and I can't see any way of adjusting this.

Now, it's very possible that I'm missing something obvious because I'm something of a turning neophite

thanks ernie

Hi Ernie,

A Clarke CL300 is a 'C2 SIEG mini-lathe'

The issue you are referring to is probably relating to 'the fit' or alignment of the rack under the bed, and/or the longitudinal leadscrew. Have a look at this dismantling guide for the C3 lathe (not SC3). A Clarke CL300/C2 is broadly speaking a shorter bed version of the old C3 lathe.

I would suggest you first read through this picture guide.

In particular, for the rack, pay attention to points 84 to 88. when you remove the rack, look out for swarf/cast iron dust resulting from original drilling/tapping of holes during assembly, which could have distorted the alignment of the rack.

For the saddle assembly, leadscrew and related brackets, pay particular attention to points 100 through to 120.

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 03/01/2018 15:51:10