Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Anonymous]

Posted by CHARLES lipscombe on 18/01/2019 12:37:41:

….except how to do the job without an ArcEuro sensitive attachment

Andrew

[David JuppParticipant @davidjupp51506]

Or read the 'How it Works' description in the 'More' tab on the  Arc web site

Edited By David Jupp on 18/01/2019 12:54:14

[CHARLES lipscombeParticipant @charleslipscombe16059]

I'm embarassed to be making this post but here goes. I have to drill some holes about 0.8 mm diameter through 6 mm thick brass. To accomplish this I thought a sensitive drilling attachment would be a good idea. I purchased a micro drill adaptor from Arceurotrade which looks exactly the same as in the catalogue – but I cant figure out how to use it.

The only thing I can think of is that I need to make a hollow sleeve, hold this in the drill chuck, insert the shaft of the micro drill in the sleeve and bring the whole ArcEuro bit of gear down by pressure on the knurled wheel.But if this is the case what drives the shaft of the attachment?

All advice gratefully received except how to do the job without an ArcEuro sensitive attachment

Regards, Chas

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

The question has been asked before on the forum but I couldn't find the answers!

This would be my beginner list for a lathe, in order of importance:

A good book, Sparey is my favourite even though it doesn’t cover modern developments like carbide. Get Neil’s ‘The Mini-lathe’ as well.

Hacksaw and vice fitted to bench.

Bench or stand for lathe

Set of HSS Tools or Set of carbide index tools. Don’t buy fixed carbide tipped tools. This HSS set contains a reasonable selection, beware of sets with odd combinations you may never use.

1x Right Hand Knife Tool

1x Left Hand Knife Tool

1x Chamfer Tool

1x 60° Thread Cutting Tool (Metric & US Threads)

1x 55° Thread Cutting Tool (Imperial)

1x Parting-Off Tool

1x 60° Internal Thread Cutting Tool

1x Boring Tool

A thin 6” metal rule or steel strip, (nipped between tool and work to indicate centre-height)

Metal strip for shimming tools to correct centre height. (Scrap is fine)

A selection of known metals to practice on. Avoid scrap and DIY store metals!

Tin of WD40 or paraffin for cutting Aluminium.

Digital Caliper (Not necessary to spend big money). Later a Micrometer

A DTI, plunger type plus magnetic stand. Later a lever type DTI as well.

Tailstock drill chuck and twist drills to match.

Bandsaw – not essential but you will soon get fed up cutting stock by hand with a hacksaw. This is my single most appreciated tool.

May require:

Taps and Dies with handles etc.

Reamers

Selection of Boring Bars

Rear Toolpost

Clamp type Knurling tool

A few comments on HSS vs Carbide Indexed tips. HSS is cheap, and gets a good finish, and is well suited to slower lathes but you have to grind it to keep it sharp. Carbide indexed inserts are convenient (including no sharpening) but more expensive to get started. They also like to be driven hard to get good results, which may not be possible on older machines. In hobby use they are harder to get good results from than well-sharpened HSS, but much easier to set up and change. You don't need a bench grinder, and most metals can be cut dry – no cutting fluid required to protect the HSS edge. An interesting HSS alternative is a tangent cutter and tool-holder as advertised by Eccentric on this site. These can do a wide range of cuts with a singe simple tool that's easy to sharpen. Don't have one myself, but they are well liked.

Likewise sets of tools vs buying individual tools as required is controversial. Chaps who know what they're doing understand sets usually contain tools that they will never use. Also some sets come with peculiar selections of duplicate or unusual tools – a waste of money. For good reason, they're dead against sets. However, for a beginner, I see sets as a good way of getting started and learning enough to join the 'Chaps who know what they're doing'

The good news is you don't have to have everything ready on day one. I'd guess most of us have bought a high percentage of our tooling as and when needed. The internet makes it easy to get stuff.

The thing that caught me out on day one was not having anything to shim tools to height. You need a selection of thin metal strips of various thicknesses to fit the toolpost. Very low tech and deeply frustrating if you have to make them by hand from a poorly stocked junk box. For fine adjustments you can cut shims from aluminium cans. I mainly make shims from the steel metal bands used to secure packaging, but these supplement a number of thicker blocks cut to shape and size on a mill.

Dave

 

Edited By JasonB on 20/01/2019 13:14:28

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Mark, ER nuts seem to come in two styles. Mine are mainly hex and that's what I have on the collet spindle that I've retrofitted to my Unimat. I needed a 25mm socket to fit an ER16 nut, but also a deep socket to clear the work or tool mounted in the collet. 25mm a/f deep sockets are like hen's teeth, but I found one that is designed for an impact driver. It comes in black finish rather than polished.

I also heave a mini collet nut that is cylindrical with slots to engage a wrench – I haven't seen a socket as such for this but bought a little tool with the nut from Arc – I made the collet holder, it's for my Acute sharpener to hold end mills.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Keith, many people get along well with the X1 or X2 type mills which probably meet your criteria. I would suggest you look at Arc Euro Trade who advertise here and sell them as the SX 1 and 2 series which are improved relative to the original versions and may meet your criteria. But similar machines are widely available from various suppliers such as Chester, Warco, Axminster, Amadeal etc. If you are used to Bridgeports or bigger be prepared for culture shock.

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by Vic on 13/01/2019 22:37:46:

My Mitutoyo is still going strong after very many years use. The Lidl one I bought a few years ago as a backup ate batteries and finally packed up after about 4 years. I won't be buying any more £9.99 specials. Anyone know what these are like?

**LINK**

I have the Arc one in the link and it has been reliable and certainly does not eat batteries.

I now have about accumulated about 10 different calipers and have one or two favourites that get used the most. I find that there is little difference in accuracy and repeatability between the cheapest LIDL and the dearer Mitutoyo. The more expensive ones have a better 'feel' and smoother action but regardless of price I prefer usability.

Auto power off (especially if its too quick) is very annoying, even more so if the reading resets when switched back on (the Arc one does that). If I am measuring pitch centre between holes and have offset the zero, I want it to remember that number until I want to change it. This is also even more important if the caliper has been adapted to use for example, as a slide DRO.

Calipers with fractional displays might be useful to USA woodworkers but make no sense even when working in drawings dimensioned in imperial decimals.

Ian P

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by mick H on 14/01/2019 15:23:19:

… I did find an on line deal that looked as if two single tickets would reduce the cost to just over £50 but the moron at Boston flatly denied that it was possible even though I produced a computer printout with the details…

Mick

Buying cheap railway tickets is a right game – since privatisation it's got so complicated I get my daughter to do it.

First thing to understand is there isn't a single simple ticket system like that once operated by British Rail. Instead there are a multitude of offers that you have to find and buy at a particular time from a particular vendor, usually online. The lady you spoke to wasn't able to sell you those cheap tickets, only the expensive ones on her system.

Privatisation replaced BR with several companies who each have to make a profit. The intent was that competition would force prices down. The trouble starts because the railway system is packed at peak times on most commuter routes. There are no spare seats. Therefore no bargains and anyone who has to travel at busy times pays peak rate.

Cheap tickets are available for those prepared to travel off-peak, or to those in a position to take advantage of railway companies miscalculating demand and scheduling too many trains – usually weekends and holidays, or because rolling stock has to be distributed around the system. Cheap tickets might be sold direct to individuals by a railway company, but more likely they are sold in bulk to third-parties who sell them on to punters, usually online.

Travellers are most likely to get good prices on routes not used by commuters by booking months in advance, by travelling at anti-social times, and by searching repeatedly for better prices. Bargains sometimes pop up close to the day and are offered cheap to avoid a total loss. It ain't straightforward.

I find the system highly annoying – it penalises people who don't play the game, or know there is a game to be played. Joining in requires imagination as well as persistence, for example recently the cheapest way to travel first class to London from Bristol was to buy first class Eurostar to Brussels and get off the train early. Second class, it used to be cheaper to buy a ticket from Bristol to Reading, and another to cover Reading to Paddington. About 20% cheaper than a through ticket on the same train…

The most expensive way of travelling by rail is to buy a ticket from the guard on the train (DON'T!), next most expensive is to buy one at the station on the day, third most expensive to ask the staff to find their cheapest option. How helpful staff are depends on the size of the queue behind you!

How about a coach? They tend to be more competitive, though the journey will be less comfortable and take longer. Bristol to London on the motorway is OK, but Boston to London might be exhausting.

Dave

[VicParticipant @vic]

My Mitutoyo is still going strong after very many years use. The Lidl one I bought a few years ago as a backup ate batteries and finally packed up after about 4 years. I won't be buying any more £9.99 specials. Anyone know what these are like?

**LINK**

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Arc Euro Trade have some excellent clearance offers on chucks, if you scroll to the bottom of their first page. They should be able to supply a part machined backplate.

Neil

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Hello Paul,

I see this has gone without a reply. The 000 style from Arc is a good match for mini lathes and should be a good choice for a Zyto.

Neil

[David Standing 1Participant @davidstanding1]

Posted by JasonB on 11/01/2019 07:36:59:

 

Well how else would Ketan be able to see the question, and maybe you missed the pun about a post card and postal charges?

Despite him saying to me before he left that he may not be able to WhatsApp me from China which is his preferred method of communication he has managed to sneak out some video of ARC's secret testing of the new UVEX safety wear that they are now stocking buy walking the length of the great wall, looks a long way to the Sieg factory! This was the only still I could get from his video as the rest of the time his leg was shaking too much doing Elvis impressions.

He also asked me to urge you to take advantage of the large amount of stock that has now been reduced and listed under Clearance Items on ARC's site. This is to make way for all the goodies he can manage to sneak through customs in his large suitcase when he returns – if you can't beat them join them

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By David Standing 1 on 11/01/2019 09:19:42

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by Bill Phinn on 10/01/2019 22:11:55:

Posted by JasonB on 10/01/2019 20:26:41:

He will have to put his answer on a post card and post it from China as he is heading that way.

They do have the Internet in China, Jason. At least they did when I was last there. I'm assuming, of course, this forum is not on the proscribed list of domain names, which would render it inaccessible without a VPN.

Well how else would Ketan be able to see the question, and maybe you missed the pun about a post card and postal charges?

Despite him saying to me before he left that he may not be able to WhatsApp me from China which is his preferred method of communication he has managed to sneak out some video of ARC's secret testing of the new UVEX safety wear that they are now stocking buy walking the length of the great wall, looks a long way to the Sieg factory! This was the only still I could get from his video as the rest of the time his leg was shaking too much doing Elvis impressions.

He also asked me to urge you to take advantage of the large amount of stock that has now been reduced and listed under Clearance Items on ARC's site. This is to make way for all the goodies he can manage to sneak through customs in his large suitcase when he returns – if you can't beat them join them

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

I use the standard Eclipse HSS parting tool on both a Myford 7 and an Emco Super 11, no real tool post and no problems. However I have tried the carbide blade and holder style but did not like them due to the additional overhang, I also tried one of this style **LINK** not from Arc but it works very well, however I still use the HSS tool for almost all of my work.

John

[Gas_mantle.Participant @gas_mantle]

Ross, I have a DB10 lathe which is essentially the same machine as yours. After experimenting with a few parting tools I find this one performs well on steel :-

The blades are easy to sharpen and once you have the holder replacement blades are cheap anyway.

**LINK**

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

Diamond hole saws/drills are sold by Arceurotrade at very reasonable prices, I used one to open out the mounting hole in a hardened steel QCTP, had to open it out from 11.2 mm to 12 mm, doesn’t sound much but by crickey the steel was hard but the diamond managed it whereas cobalt drills and carbide drills just bounced of it.

Dave W

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

There is Moderator Neil's article on MEW 204 that I have found very useful (Thanks Neil)

It is available here:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/reviews/MEW204-P31_P36-Thread-Cutting.pdf

[VicParticipant @vic]

Looking at this **LINK** Fobco never made a drill with a 1/2” x 20 Spindle nose.

I’m guessing your machine has a morse taper arbor in it with a threaded nose. If that’s the case you should be able to eject it and fit an arbor of your choice?

**LINK**

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

If the bearings in a lathe headstock are pre-loaded, either by adjuster nut on the spindle or by wavy washers, the clearance is taken up, so how would the extra clearance in a C2 be of any relevance?

The usual trick is to upgrade to angular contact bearings or even better taper rollers. ISTR the ArcEurotrade website has an article on doing the conversion.

 

 

Edited By Hopper on 30/12/2018 12:17:31

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Do you think anything else has changed more?

The ability to buy, sell and communicate because of the net

I can get stuff now I couldn't dream of getting hold of in the past, even in the 80s trying to get anything out of the ordinary took serious time and effort

The net has made the world available to all

Had to scrap a good bluebird in 1994 because no-one had the bit I wanted, I spend days phoning around and searching scrappies

25 years later I can find it in 5 minutes and search the world for a supplier

[ChrisBParticipant @chrisb35596]

Update, Warco replied, they do stock change gears and related parts. The gears range in price from £15 to £30 +VAT and shipping each, while the keyed bush is at £7,29 + VAT.

I'll order a couple of bushes to have some spares…but ordering a new set of gears would be too expensive. I'd be better off buying a set of gear cutters for €50 and cut the whole range of gears I may need. One more project for the next year! **LINK** I like the concept, but would adapt it for the milling machine.

[Terry KirkupParticipant @terrykirkup37827]

Hi J Bennet 1. I have a suspicion that due to fairly limited customer demand in this sector of the engineering market there may be too much risk in companies like Warco holding too much stock. And of course they are at the mercy of completely different market conditions in Asia and the Far East. Many companies in all sectors now keep stock to a minimum and order from their suppliers/manufactureres only when sufficient demand arises, the so-called Just In Time logistics approach. I do sympathise though, it can be frustrating. I steered away from Warco's own QCTP as it didn't seem to find much favour in the articles I've read and I really like the wedge design of the Aloris copies.

John, ta for that, I did get a few similar suggestions to yours and have located a local blacksmith and steel supplier.

Now, in mitigation of J Bennet 1's tale, how dare ArcEuroTrade disturb my late morning weekend snooze plans with a knock on my door at 0930 this morning (Saturday 22nd Dec)? After all I didn't order the toolpost and holders until 11:40am yesterday! Fantastic service to balance the books somewhat.

[LathejackParticipant @lathejack]

I'me sure I am not the only one who has items of new tooling, some quite expensive, that still remain unused quite a number of years after purchase.

After a brief search of my workshop I found and opened this box, to reveal one such item still new and unused since I bought it years ago from Arceurotrade when I visited their premises.

……………I can't remember for sure how long ago I bought this C3 Mini Lathe Toolpost grinder from Arc, but at the time I was told that from them it was a discontinued item. I think Little Machine Shop in the USA still offer it, plus a slightly larger model.

…………..I now have a job for it, and plan to make a short internal grinding spindle for it. The 80mm diameter grinding wheels that came with it are all 80 grit, I wonder what sort of finish they will produce.

Has anyone else used one of these little Toolpost grinders? It has a 250 Watt motor, with a grinding spindle speed of 6000 RPM. It all seems fairly well made.

Edited By Lathejack on 21/12/2018 20:32:55

Edited By Lathejack on 21/12/2018 21:01:01

[Terry KirkupParticipant @terrykirkup37827]

Well, I was a brave boy today. Got most of the reachable gunge off the 290's bed, ways and slides and oiled them with the stuff that Warco sells, the gears done with 3 in1 white Lithium spray. I stuck a 2 foot length of chromed steel roller (dunno where I got it) in the chuck, completely unsupported, to do another twist/parallel test and there was hardly a flicker on the dial either a few inches from the headstock or just shy of the tailstock centre so I reckon I got the base pedestals pretty well aligned.

Next step, give it some electricery after sticking a short piece of iron in the chuck. That's when I hit a problem. The DRO lit up nicely and zeroed/shifted with X and Y movement as it should. However when I tried to fire up the motor I got nothing. Now I've twice removed the gear cover – once to transport it to the shed and again to grease the gears. Both times I had an awful job refitting it and now I know what caused the issue. The horrible little forked blade thing attached to the cover is supposed to engage into a slot in the motor interlock switch thingy but it was dangling loose on all four m3 fixings so wouldn't engage properly. It's impossible to position it accurately so I got lucky with a guesstimate and at last I had motion. A momentous occasion for me. I got real scared at 2000 rpm and eased it back down to 60. It did seem eerily quiet whizzing away like that.

Obviously I couldn't wait any longer to make my first incision so I hunted for the 60-30 degree indexable 8mm tool an old engineer gifted me and tried to set it in the toolpost. Of course it was way too far below centre so I spent the next ten or more minutes searching for some packing pieces. None to be found as I'm really not geared up yet. So it was that in utter frustration I headed for the PC and immediately ordered a QCTP from ArcEuroTrade – and it was in stock! Now I just have to hope the ARC reindeer aren't too slow before the family descends for Krizzy!

Prepare for some very newbie-type questions about the EASIEST way to fit the BXA toolpost.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I just use the same 32 weight oil that I use in the head gearbox, they do both need topping up regularly as they tend to drip. Warco do "head oil" or ARC do this

Pin is 3mm so if you have rod that size it should be about the same strength or just turn down some brass to fit.