Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Bill PudneyParticipant @billpudney37759]

Last Saturday 15/12/18 I placed a small order with ArcEuroTrade, expecting that delivery wouldn't be until sometime in the New Year, because of the silly season. Imagine my surprise when there was a knock at the door from the postie with my package!! I reckon 6 days from the UK to Australia is pretty good, especially when Australia Post seems to find it difficult to deliver a standard letter from Melbourne to Adelaide in under a week!!

So, not for the first time thanks ArcEuroTrade!!

Merry Christmas

cheers

Bill

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hello npu,

I have just been directed to this post by Howard.

SIEG factory was born in 1988. So, if your machine is a 78 model, it is from elsewhere probably?

If your machine is a SIEG C2, the spares for it are on this page. You need to check and make sure that the part you have looks exactly like the products in the pictures on that spares page. If they don't, please don't make a purchase.

We do not appear to have an email requesting a motor for a C2. However, please send me a personal message with your email address, by clicking the 'Message member' link below this message, or give Arc a call and speak with Ian.

Ketan at ARC

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by npu on 18/12/2018 19:40:28:

thank You very much for a fast replay.

i tried arc euro trade( sent 2 emails in the last 2 weeks, no response, perhaps they are on holiday), warco said that they only support their products. i sent a mail to amadeal too (i see a motor on a web but the tech data are not the same as mine..), i tried paulimott too, the answer is the same as warco…

my mini lathe is from 1978….

Very strange for Arc not to respond, try their contact form: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/contact.aspx

I didn't realise that the Chinese models dated back to 78, or is yours a Russian one?

Not suire of any European dealers.

Neil

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Unusual, Arc Euro are usually very prompt.

Suggest that you check the E mail address that you used.

Howard

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Some people are dead against sets, usually because a set will contain one or more tools that are rarely used. Of course if you already know what you need, then it's possible to avoid wasting money. But for a beginner feeling his way I think a set is very good place to start. You get a selection of tools to experiment with and more learning opportunities.

One thing to watch out for is the usefulness of the tools you actually get in the box – some selections are more sensible than others! I own this HSS set from ArcEuro and others and found it very useful with one exception. Being metric I've used all the tools apart from the 55 degree thread. Note that the internal threading tool is 60 degree metric only and this set would waste two tools in an Imperial only workshop. The right and left knives are easily re-sharpened.

John Haine mentions usefully that the diamond tool 'will do 99% of all your turning jobs'. This is well worth considering. However, even though the Eccentric tool has an excellent reputation, I've not bothered with one! The reason is I happen to do a high percentage of grooving, parting, chamfering, threading and boring. The mix of work makes inserts attractive, though as you've noticed, it can be tricky to get a good finish with carbide!

Dave

[npuParticipant @npu]

thank You very much for a fast replay.

i tried arc euro trade( sent 2 emails in the last 2 weeks, no response, perhaps they are on holiday), warco said that they only support their products. i sent a mail to amadeal too (i see a motor on a web but the tech data are not the same as mine..), i tried paulimott too, the answer is the same as warco…

my mini lathe is from 1978….

perhaps You know some other dealer from europe, not only uk dealers…?

thank You

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Am pretty sure that Arc EuroTrade will be able to supply, They certainly used to list spares for the C2.

Hopefully, any Importer of C2s will be able to supply spares, for Cieg machines.

Howard

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by KenJ on 18/12/2018 07:42:57:

…

The equipment will be used for pure Hobby (no locomotives) and restricted to whatever the aforementioned equipment can handle.

Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

PS. After sales service is also important.

…

Stop agonising and buy something, anything would be my guidance. Do it today!

I fear the question pre-supposes that some Models and Sellers are markedly better than others; that this state of affairs never changes; and that Members know what the best deal is at the moment! Not sure any of this holds good.

The SC4 has been getting good reviews: it's an interesting new machine. Neil W is running a series on it in MEW at the moment, and people who have them like them. The alternatives are credible too. For your purposes any of them would do. (The problems start when you find a job can't be done because you're 'restricted to whatever the aforementioned equipment can handle'. Best bit of single advice I got off the forum was 'buy the biggest machine you can'. )

None of the UK sellers have a positively bad reputation. Some are 'unknown'. All the major players have (I think) at one time or another dropped the ball in terms of service. On the other hand most issues get resolved, even it's a refund rather than a nicely working machine.

Very few of us have experience of all the vendors, I can speak positively of Arc Euro and Warco, but I've never dealt with most of their competitors. The machines they sell are 'similar'. You have to look carefully to detect differences, which can and do vary over time.

• Bed hardened
• Motor power output
• Speed range
• Type of Motor. In order of desirability – Brushless, 3-phase, DC, single phase. In practice may not make a big difference.
• Tools provided, eg. does it come with a 4-jaw as well as a 3-jaw.
• Stand
• Imperial vs Metric & does it cut the thread sizes you need.
• Saddle grooves
• Saddle Lock
• Power traverse for facing
• Spindle size
• DRO
• Offers / sales?
• Is it in stock?

For general work, most of these are 'nice to have' rather than essential. Most lathes will do what any other lathe does, the difference is how quickly and conveniently it will do it. This is why it's best (if you can) to have a clear idea about what the lathe is for. For example, I prefer working in metric and therefore bought a metric lathe with metric dials. However in practice, measuring with a micrometer, and having a pocket calculator, I could just as well have bought an Imperial lathe. Fitting a DRO makes the two lathe types pretty much interchangeable apart from some threading. Sometimes, probably due to overstocking in one measurement system, exactly same lathe can be on offer. This makes it possible to save money if Imperial vs Metric doesn't matter to you. But don't do it if Metric vs Imperial does matter continually in the work you do – having to keep an eye on conversions wastes time and causes mistakes! Too me a clutch is an unnecessary luxury, to others a clutch is essential.

Axminister are somewhat expensive but they offer an extended warranty. At extra cost they also do a well received training course.

After sales support might be a problem if you're thinking of spare parts in the distant future. Apart from the major components – Bearings, belts, motors, switches, contactors etc – the machines are not highly standardised. Arc Euro have a good range of spares, but I doubt they have a warehouse full of replacement tail-stocks for 1985 mini-lathes! Even so, for spares the larger well established vendors are probably a better bet than smaller operations.

Hope that helps – have a quick look at what's available at the moment and buy the kit that ticks most boxes within your budget. I don't think you'll go far wrong whatever you buy.

Dave

[AeronutParticipant @aeronut]

Hi Iain, I've had a Clarke 145 turbo for almost a year and I'm very happy with it. Firstly regarding duty cycle, according to the blurb mine has a higher duty cycle than the 151EN weird or what. Why they call it a 145 when it goes from 35 to 135 amps who knows it could all be a marketing thing. Liners are easily available even tho its not a euro torch. I've even welded an aluminium model engine exhaust using 5356 mig wire and no I didnt change the liner it didn't leak this was a non critical application. The clarke was bought on a vat free voucher so cost just over £160. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend one. The main problem with any hobby migs seems to be wire feed, you sometimes just have to waste a couple of feet. All the small reels of mig wire seem to be layer wound whereas you can get 5kg reels precision wound. I personally buy all my mig wire, welding rods and mig tips from a local welding supplier and they work out much cheaper than Machine Mart, Screwfix and Tool station etc. My local welding supplier has ebay accounts as well with free postage, wecsltd and tawltd, arcriteweldingsafetyltd been another I use. I've no association with these other than a happy customer. Feel free to message me with any queries.

Regards Lee

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

You can try Warco, Chester, SIEG, Amadeal, Arc Euro Trade or Axminster in the UK for a start.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Gray on 15/12/2018 09:15:47:

Harry, the same (or similar) QCTP as sold by Arc Eurotrade are also sold in Australia by Ausee machines and tools (https://www.ausee.com.au/shop/category.aspx?catid=8351)

Gray

You beat me too it

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

Harry, the same (or similar) QCTP as sold by Arc Eurotrade are also sold in Australia by Ausee machines and tools (https://www.ausee.com.au/shop/category.aspx?catid=8351)

Gray

[clivelParticipant @clivel]

Posted by Hendrikus known as Harry CRIJNS on 14/12/2018 20:09:12:

I am a newbie and would like to know if one of these Chinese Quick change tool posts are suitable for my Myford ML7 lathe.

For the ML7 you would need the 0XA (also known as the 000) series QCTP. with a body 1.75” square. This size is far less common than the larger sizes and does not seem to be carried by many suppliers. Two stockists that I am aware of are Arc Euro Trade in the UK and LittleMachineShop in the US.

Unfortunately the 0XA toolpost will not fit the standard Myford mounting stud. You can either make a replacement or purchase a Model 000 QCTP Mounting Kit from Arc Euro.

Clive

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by mechman48 on 01/09/2018 14:18:32:

Ketan



I'd be interested in getting a couple of these + a couple of square edge ones if you were to stock / supply them.

George.

Hi George, MichaelG

The square edge ones are finally in and on our website now:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Tome-Feteira-Files/Swiss-Pattern-Needle-Files/Joint-Square-Edge-Needle-Files

Ketan at ARC

 

 

Edited By Ketan Swali on 13/12/2018 15:19:27

[Mark RandParticipant @markrand96270]

That lathe might be ok as a worn out, second hand fixer-upper project. As a new machine, it's not fit for purpose. Send it back.

You could possibly drive up to Syston and have a look at ArcEurotrade's SC4 as an alternative.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by larry phelan 1 on 11/12/2018 20:06:57:

Came across a post here regarding the high cost of deliveries from England to anywhere else,often much more than the cost of the items involved.

…

Strange to say,not all suppliers seem to be bound by this creed,very odd !

…

It's beyond me exactly how it works but there's an International arrangement organised by the Universal Postal Union that allows postal authorities worldwide to recover the delivery cost of items received from abroad.

The system is gob-smackingly complicated and the rules are written in legalese. Recovery costs are paid in a currency called SDR (Special Drawing Rights operated by the IMF), which is referenced to the US Dollar from the daily rates of a basket of currencies consisting of the US Dollar, Euro, Pound Sterling, Renminbi and Yen.

Then different rates are applied to developed economies and undeveloped economies. Undeveloped economies pay less to encourage growth, but everyone is gradually moving the higher group. Movements between groups take place in a 5 year cycle. Bottom line – you tend to see higher charges between countries like the USA and Australia, than say Australia and Thailand.

Another reason for high or low costs is the way post is moved. I believe everything posted between the US and UK travels by air, which is top-rate. Heavy items can individually shipped but this is also expensive. Much of the stuff we receive from China travels at the lowest possible rate – in bulk in shipping containers. It is possible to reduce charges by routing goods via third party countries, but I'm not sure it's entirely legal.

More costs arise each time an item crosses a border. Inside the EU there many are opportunities to reduce costs because the countries involved can operate as a single unit with lorries moving freely over long distances. Not quite so easy to economise within the EU when items have to be delivered across a sea-way to the UK and Ireland, but generally UK – Germany will be cheaper than UK-USA.

Mixed in with this are the commercial carriers, with whatever rates they care to apply. Depending on capacity and commercial considerations some rates are loss leading, others profit taking.

It also seems that the big guys can use their financial muscle to get preferable rates based on volume. It's possible for the small guy to to get cheap rates too but he has to sort out the details for himself, and his time costs make searching expensive. If you buy from someone who doesn't have an existing arrangement, or someone who isn't prepared to look for the best rate on a case by case basis, you're liable to pay over the odds.

Not sure this is anything like a proper explanation. What's charged for the same item can vary over an incredible range. Strong suspicion that some ebay sellers make their money out of post and packing, not what's in the parcel.

It's another mess! Brexit makes it more unpredictable.

Dave

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Kiwi Bloke 1 on 11/12/2018 08:29:11:

The thread 'Arc Euro ER16 runout' got me thinking. Thought I'd start a new thread, rather than hijack that one.

.

I think you might find it interesting to read this previous thread: **LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=120333

… Although I note that it now starts rather strangely [?], there was a lot of useful discussion.

[ and, predictably enough, a lot of 'soapbox-ing' ]

MichaelG.

[Kiwi BlokeParticipant @kiwibloke62605]

The thread 'Arc Euro ER16 runout' got me thinking. Thought I'd start a new thread, rather than hijack that one.

I've just looked at the Schaublin collet chuck that Emco supplied for the FB2 milling machine. I'd rather taken it for granted before – it just did its job, apparently accurately. But now I'm wondering… are these things designed optimally? Clearly, axial alignment cannot be taken for granted and the availability of 'forcing clamps' (dunno what they're really called) to tweak cutter alignment suggests that concentricity may not be as reliable as one would want.

I assume that the collet is aligned by the taper in the body of the chuck. If the collet collapses symmetrically (and is made concentric), alignment should be determined by the collet chuck's accuracy. But this assumes that the collet is not able to be deflected radially as it is tightened. Is this assumption valid, in practice? There are two complications…

Firstly, the short taper on the collet's nose mates with the taper in the closer (nut). The closer is threaded to the body with a 'normal' V thread, so it is 'centred' by the thread. If there is a malalignment between the closer and the body, the closer's taper and the centring action of the thread may fight each other, resulting in a radial force on the nose of the collet. Wouldn't a 'sloppy' square thread (large radial clearance) be better? There would then be no chance of the closer exerting a radial force on the collet. (OK, we really need symmetrical spanner work, but that applies to the conventional design anyway.)

Secondly, for collets with extractor grooves, it might be that, as the closer collapses the collet, allowing the collet to settle deeper into the closer's taper, the closer's extractor (half-) ring 'bottoms out' on the collet's groove, and contact between the closer's taper and the collet nose's taper is lost. Also, the axial force would be off-centre. Wouldn't it be better for the cap to be able to exert only a reliably axial force? Why have a taper in the closer, or is it to ensure the greatest radial force is applied to the cutter at the collet's nose?

Perhaps I should just continue to take it for granted…

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

ARC sell an identical looking one, may be worth asking them if they know the construction, or Neil may know as he has one, they sell MT2 and MT3 versions.

Edited By JasonB on 11/12/2018 07:54:19

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

Thanks all again for the input.

First of all let me say that I have no complaints about the service from Arc Euro.

There are four mechanical components involved here – the backplate collet holder, nut and collet. Three of those came from Arc Euro one I made myself. Then there is a human component (me) of course. The reason for posting here was twofold: firstly to seek some help to narrow down the problem (successfully I think) and secondly to try to gauge what level of accuracy it would be reasonable to expect from the Arc Euro products.

I do really need to make this work – the price of the stuff from Arc Euro is a fairly small consideration compared to the investment of time to make the backplate.

The people telling me to do the nut up more tightly seem to be spot on. Now that I've hunted down a big enough spanner and tightened the thing up the runout has reduced to less than a thou. The runout seems to be slightly less with the 3mm Proxxon cutter shank than it does with the 3.2mm drill. This is a good result – now it is worth my while to chase down the half a thou of runout that I measured inside the collet holder taper.

I do still think that I might want to replace the nut even if it is perfect. The spanner needed to do the thing up is nearly as big as the lathe and hardly convenient to store with the lathe tooling. A nut that uses one of those pegged wrench things seems like a better bet.

For the people who asked… my backplate started out as a piece of 60mm diameter by 20mm long cast iron bar from College Engineering. Most of the machining was done on my Cowells lathe with just the final few ops done on the Unimat. I don't think the Unimat has enough slow speed torque for this job and holding that diameter would also be a challenge. The collet holder is 62mm diameter so I needed to be careful to keep as much of the diameter of the blank bar as possible to provide enough 'meat' for the three M5 fixing screw threads but I think that going up to 70mm bar would have made life tricky on the Cowells.

Finally… I'm no expert machinist but I do have an engineering background… sufficient to know that there is no such thing as perfect. Everything has an error and each part that is added will usually make the cumulative error worse. It would still be useful to see runout measurements from other people with the same (or more high end) collet setups… what is a reasonable expectation for runout from the Arc Euro products and what (if any) improvement is obtainable for more money?

Regards, Andy

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Larry, collet sizes here, go and have a measure if it does not fall into one of those then it's the far eastern ERish collets you have. Though as you can't get 16mm into an ER16 that may answer your question, could be ER20.

As the OP says he has 0.0005" runout at the chuck socket it would seem reasonable to assume the backplate and chuck are about right. Would be interesting to know runout at both ends of the tapered hole as that would eliminate a wonky chuck.

Edited By JasonB on 09/12/2018 13:29:04

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

I'd suggest trying again, but pay special attention to cleanliness of the collet and the holder. Any trapped swarf will play havoc with concentricity. Also, try to use these ER collets at full capacity, e.g. install a tool with a 6mm shank in a 6-5 collet, rather than something with a 5mm shank, where possible.

Edit: You did install the collet into the nut correctly didn't you?

Installation link

 

Martin.

Edited By blowlamp on 08/12/2018 23:27:24

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

I've just finished making a backplate to fit one of the Arc Euro ER16 collet holders onto my Unimat SL.

Along with the collet holder I also bought a 1/8 collet so that I could see if they were any good before considering a full set of metric collets.

Measuring the runout inside the holder with the nut off I got 1/2 thou… more than I was hoping for but not terrible.

Clamping a Proxxon milling cutter as a test piece and checking the runout on the plain part of the shaft proved less than encouraging – 3 thou runout… which is no better than my 3 jaw chuck.

I also clocked the inside of the nut bore with the nut tight and no collet in the holder – this came out at 5 thou.

I'm not sure if the problem is with the collet or the nut but the runout inside the bore of the nut seems like A Bad Thing to me.

I have a friend with some ER16 collets so I may be able to try some of his in a few days time. I dont know if the nuts are interchangeable… we shall see.

Have I bought a dud? Does anyone else have experience of the Arc Euro ER16 collets and collet holder?

Regards, Andy

[edit: typo]

Edited By Andy Carlson on 08/12/2018 22:59:10

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Metal Guard, it is a much thinner coat than lacquer so you can't tell it's there