Search Results for 'arc euro'

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Mike,

I use a 000 size wedge type toolholder from Arc on my 9×20 lathe and it suits it very well. I think the chester DB7 is slightly smaller, so the 000 size should fit fine. I would be surprised if anything bigger would be suitable.

I also fitted the Arc thrust race kit, ostensibly for Myfords, which has improved the action of the locking nut, in my opinion. See here.

The code number you referenced has been converted to a phone number in my browser, the link you need is this one.

John

[Mike 90Participant @mike90]

Hi guys I’m looking to purchase a wedge type tool post for my Chester DB7 lathe and have been looking at arc euro trade model 000 code number 09007000351 in there catalogue, but don’t know if it would be a straight swap or would it need machining.

Edited By Mike 90 on 10/01/2020 13:03:29

[John WallerParticipant @johnwaller42747]

Posted by Pete Rimmer on 08/01/2020 23:21:30:

If you're going to get a Biax get a green one. You can at least do something with them if you have motor problems as the motors are used in other tools. The blue ones are unique so you have no chance finding a rotor or armature. The fans have a habit of coming loose and I was lucky to rescue mine when it happened. Your options would be a rewind/repair or make an adapter plate to graft a later motor onto it.

They are super-reliable but worth thinking about.

Hi Pete – Thanks for your detailed reply: Most appreciated

Don't think I've seen a secondhand green one but I'm looking. Missed a blue #7 in France.

Not common too common in Europe from my searches so far.

KR

John

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Terry Howlett 1 on 09/01/2020 09:39:58:

I saw that the Chester DB8 was in fact bigger than what I seek, and I think its the fact that the Weiss WM210 sits between two more popular models, but meets my needs almost spot on that brought me to consider the Swisstec offering. The feedback here has helped me understand more clearly about the origins of that machine, and maybe I'll look at that Amadeal machine more closely next.

Thanks again to you all. All your comments have really helped my thinking.

Terry

My advice Terry is to stop worrying and buy one! These machines are all based on out-of-copyright European designs (where Europe includes the Soviet Bloc), made mostly in China. The design is sensible, often with useful improvements like DRO's and Brushless Motors but the machines are made down to a price. It's not unusual for new machines be fundamentally sound but marred by a number of -usually minor – defects related to fit and finish.

I suggest it's best to buy from a trustworthy UK source. As these machines are all similar, you want to buy from a vendor who will calmly replace or refund in the event of trouble. In particular avoid an ebay fly-by-night ; very cheap machines may be factory rejects. Likewise, buying on the internet, double check the Terms & Conditions: – one example I looked at required the buyer to return the machine to a depot in Germany at his own expense. This was in the small print.

In the UK I'm not aware that any of the established vendors (such as those advertising on this site), are untrustworthy. But it does seem that some are a shade better than others, for example there's a difference between an importer who takes the trouble to visit China and establish a relationship with the maker and an importer who just orders a container full of machine tools by email. In the first camp, ArcEuroTrade perhaps score highest praise on the forum but they only sell a limited range of lathes. Warco and Axminster also have good reputations; Axminster are pricey because their machines come with an extended warranty. I have no experience of Amadeal but don't recall any complaints about them.

I've forgotten the name, but there was a German importer who claimed German quality for their Chinese Lathes; an inspector resident in China, and a suggestion the machines were tweaked in Germany. The kit was distinctly more expensive than the competition, and I'm not convinced the extra was cost worth it. "Quality" means nothing in the absence of a specification! As most faults on the machines are minor, it may not be sensible to pay big money to fix silly problems easily mended by a keen hobbyist.

I wasted far too much time dithering about details rather than just getting stuck in. Motor size doesn't matter much, and the adverts can be misleading (do they mean input or output?). After blowing a couple of years of irretrievable workshop time on ill-considered research (much depends on what the machine is for, and I wasn't clear about that), I bought a mini-lathe from Warco.

Initially I was disappointed because I foolishly expected it would cut any old scrap metal I had lying about. Turned out my scrap box was full of difficult alloys; it was an absolute revelation when I bought new metal (like EN1A) intended to be machined; suddenly the lathe went from struggling and poor finish, to delivering consistently good results. Mostly the metal, partly me learning how to drive properly. (Too gentle and too hard are both sinful!)

One benefit of buying a mini-lathe is the value of a relatively inexpensive learning experience. After a year or two experimenting the owner will be much clearer about what he really needs, and what to look for in a lathe. In my case, the mini-lathe turned out to be too small: the advice to buy the biggest lathe you can manage is excellent. (Unless you want to specialise in clocks or small models).

Mini-lathes have several shortcomings, none of them serious for general purpose work. For example, I didn't care much for the screw-cutting banjo – it works OK, but has two awkwardly placed clamp nuts and is fiddly to set-up. Beware, when seeking perfection – there is no end to spending money on nice to have features! Although the banjo on my big lathe is much handier, I now want a proper gearbox and clutch…

Dave

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

They are for the power feed stops, there is a tee nut on the opposite end of the small thread with nut that you can see on the two stop blocks but you could also make manual stops and an a block for them to touch using the two tapped holes on the front.

You can see them fitted to this SX3.5DZP

 

Edited By JasonB on 08/01/2020 19:54:44

Edited By JasonB on 08/01/2020 19:56:09

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Matt,

I assume you are looking for reamers like these, imperial sizes I guess.

ArcEurotrade has chucking reamers – both metric and imperial.

Thor

[Patrick HefferParticipant @patrickheffer52464]

I've heard back from Arceurotrade and they don't do a direct fit 4 jaw chuck for the Sieg Co mini lathe. They obviously do the chuck and adapter plate but my machining skills aren't that great so I'll see what Chronos can do. They have a 70mm 4 jaw independent chuck with an M14x1 thread mounted on an adapter plate to fit a 3" rotary table so perhaps that's the way to go. I have an old 50mm 3 jaw chuck with a slightly smaller thread than M12 which I could possibly sell with the adapter plate to recoup a bit of money. The buyer could recut the M14x1 thread to match the chuck. Thanks very much for all the help and advice given – very much appreciated.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

You don't need the advanced section, just one of the filters on the left is for UK.
Then you check it is showing the category , near the top of the page, that you want. Sometimes it plays with that.
When you get the combination you like copy and save the address line which will have those options embedded in it. Make sure you are saving the general list not a specific item. It will have PrefLoc=1 in it which is UK, Loc 2 is world, Loc 3 is Europe, a page number of the list "pgn=" is embedded in it too, also nkw=lingerie or whatever you were searching for.

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

I have this type of tool post Here

it ok but there are time when i find the tool holder can move, so, i have some spare cash and thought about one of theses from Arc

i have the Warco WM290v and the height from the compound slide to the ctr of the chuck is 25mm. I assume the one i am looing at will be ok?

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If you are going for Arc Euro, the 60 mm 4 jaw independant slim body steel chuck Stock Code is 040-040-02095, priced at £59.98. A semi finished Backplate with a 14 x 1 thread and 14mm register is 62mm OD, and will require finish machining for the face and Chuck register OD, and drilling for the retaining studs. Stock Code is 040-060-10400 priced at £9.72

Since an order for both is less than £75 it will incur a shipping charge of £3.60. All these prices are VAT inclusive.

Based on my experience, you are likely to receive the items within a couple of days.of placing the order.

Howard

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

I think you should maybe talk to ArcEuro before buying anything – they told me when I bought my Sieg C0 that (IIRC) either the Unimat 3 has a register diameter the Sieg C0 doesn't have or t'other way about, so caution and/or a modification might be needed if you buy a Unimat chuck.

Arc are advertising a 4-jaw for the C0 even though I think they've dropped the machine itself, and I've found their products and advice to be very good.

And we all know that sometimes things made cheaply are hugely better than expensively-made ones.

Edited By Mick B1 on 05/01/2020 11:08:41

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

When it comes to cutter holding you have to accept that there is no perfect system. The art is to get best value for money when initially choosing a system that does well enough for most of your work.  The either supplement with something more suitable or figuring a work around when dealing with any specific things it doesn't do so well.

I suspect a lot of folk are tempted to overbuy on tool holding equipment to deal with things they might have to do later or because a set is cheaper than one size. Which tends not to work out so well when it turns out you only use two out of 8? I have certainly overbought over the years. But I'm a serious toolaholic with perfectionist tendencies! Hopefully most folk area little more sane. Thirty years from purchase to first use might be considered excessive. I've used my ER 32 collet set about 10 times in 35 years and once was a try out to see how it all fitted together.

As you have concluded by far the best answer, for now at least, is to use what you have and get some experience. Then figure out what you need for your work. One often overlooked issue with collets is the need for high standards of cleanliness in both collet bore and on the tool shank. Especially if you use cutting fluids. Morse taper collets are, by their very nature, high friction in the taper bore so they don't get as much grip per unit of drawbar pull or nose closer push as an R8 or other milling cutter specific taper.

John makes a good point about Weldon holder lengths. Most of the excess length in the 6 mm and 1/4" ArcEuro R8 taper ones I have is below the screw so can be lopped of with impunity. The screw is about as close to the end of the spindle bore as is practical. The 3/4" Arc one I have is significantly, maybe an inch, over-long when compared to professional versions which all have the screw well up towards the spindle. That one has a very long bore so no reason why it couldn't be cut down. But I drive a Bridgeport and the extra stick out is welcome as giving me a bit more vertical room before the big spindle interferes with visibility in a deep recess. But Weldon holders aren't hard to make if need be. I like to keep blank end arbor or two on hand for field expedient modifications just in case I need something right now. Whether for a cutter holder or other purposes.

Clive

Edited By Clive Foster on 04/01/2020 11:05:15

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Given the limited daylight between spindle nose and chuck "Weldon" style side screw locking holders could be a good choice for holding cutters. These are rather shorter than any collet chuck and pretty much as secure as a Clarkson style chuck taking threaded shank cutters.

Aurc Eurotrade do such holders on MT2 shanks for around £15 each in metric sizes and a littel cheaper in imperial **LINK**. Only four metric or imperial sizes needed to cover the milling cutter shank diameters normally used by Model Engineers so cost is comparable to Clarkson or ER sets unless you want bot metric and imperial. Objectively only sensible reason for that is lucking into a stash of milling cutters in both breeds. So the saving should cover the extra cost.

Not that hard to make from a blank end arbor given suitable care in getting things concentric. Were I to make some for a small milling machine I'd make an effort to get the tool shank further up inside the taper reducing the length.

Disadvantage of side locking screw holders is that you need to fit your own flat for the screw if using common cutters. Not hard to do free hand but I jig might be nice. I got some from Arc on R8 shanks many years ago and have found them effective, although I usually use a Posilock (Clarkson copy) chuck. I did have to trim the noses of the 6 mm and 1/4" holders to use Clarkson style throw-away cutters. Maybe the design has changed.

Clive

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Have just checked a 90T gear for a Sieg SC6, that I bought in for a project.

The teeth are 8.01 mm wide, and the central boss is 9.85 mm wide

The central boss is 24.89 mm in diameter.

The bore is 16.02 mm, with a 4 mm keyway.

This and others for the same lathe, or possibly for the SC4, may be suitable raw material for modification to suit the Hobbymat.

The gear is metal, so will be more expensive than a plastic equivalent, but a complete set may be cheaper, and easier to obtain, than the genuine article. You may think it worthwhile to enquire at Arc Euro Trade, if they can provide any help.

And in addition to any cost saving, the gears can be made exactly to fit your machine, in addition to providing either some practice, or some enjoyment, in their modification.

Howard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

THOUGHT

Are the gears for mini lathes Mod 1, and of similar dimensions?

If so, since the standard Hobbymat gears are stated to be "plastic", maybe it would be possible to obtain and modify gears for the two common manufacturers of mini lathes.

I think, subject to correction by those more knowledgeable, that Real Bull machines have a 4 mm keyway, and Sieg machines have a 3mm one

Gears for Sieg machines should be available from Arc Euro or Chester, probably ex stock, and possibly the only mod needed may be just enlarging the keyway, (with a file? ), or maybe enlarging the bore and remaking the keyway. This could be a way of obtaining the changewheels needed, rather than searching for costly hen's teeth.

Howard

WHY do I only spot the typos after hitting "Send"?

Edited By Howard Lewis on 03/01/2020 10:54:42

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

For the sizes that you quote, I think that you will find that Arc Euro do a set that covers from 1/8" up to 3/4".

Just checked the latest catalogue; price is £51.13, plus £3.60 postage. Stock code is 100-192-00700

I have used my set fairly often, on shim steel, tin plate, and rubber or joint materials, with no sign of deterioration yet evident, so fairly long lasting.

HTH

Howard

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Fairly easy to see the outer end of the scroll as it passes by a jaw gap. Fit No.1 first, then 2 and 3 on the same circuit. May need to fit the first jaw in one particular slot to obtain the optimum concentricity for the chuck (it is unlikely to be perfect).

The morse taper needs something behind it, if not long enough to self eject. A suitably rounded bolt, screwed in a drawbar arbor, is sufficient, but suppliers like Arceuro will supply a pukka-looking part to convert from drawbar arbor to a tanged one.

edited to add that drawbar arbors can often be removed with wedges – easily made or can be sourced from Arc or others.  Wedges avoid having to thump the drawbar with a soft-headed mallet (do not us a steel hammer!).  Some arbors are made with self-extraction in design.

Martin got there, mostly, before me – probably awake longer than me.

Edited By not done it yet on 02/01/2020 17:43:04

[EdHParticipant @edh]

I have also had excellent service from both Arc Eurotrade and the Royal Mail as recently I ordered some reamers and they were in my hands in less than 24 hours.

[Bill DawesParticipant @billdawes]

Excellent service once again from Arc Eurotrade (silver oxide batteries) and BA Bolts (SS csk BA screws)

Ordered Sunday, arrived this morning Royal Mail, so praise to them as well.

Bill D.

[Ian Johnson 1Participant @ianjohnson1]

Posted by Chris Gragson on 30/12/2019 19:54:01:

Hi Ian, thanks for this feedback, the chap I bought it from who is an excellent engineer had very good things to say about it, He had had it for over 25 years from new. Thanks also for the picture of the change wheels, looks like I will be needing close to a few hundred quid to acquire them all close to what I got the lathe for…

A few hundred quid!!! I've not had a look at Hobbymat change wheel prices, that seems a like a lot of dosh to spend on plastic gear wheels! In the photo is a 50 tooth change wheel from my Mini Lathe, next to it is the Hobbymat 50 tooth wheel. both of them are 1 module gear tooth profile.

So I was thinking is it possible to buy the much MUCH cheaper Mini lathe change wheels (Arc Euro sell them) and bore them out to suit the Hobbymat?

Couple of problems though! the wall thickness will be a lot thinner after boring out, so maybe some sort of bushing might be needed? And the keyway will need to be made too. Another problem is that you won't get all the correct number of tooth wheels so you may need to search for an alternative.

Apart from that, the plan is perfect!

Oh! nearly forgot here is a photo of the tee slotted plate, hope you can make out the dimensions

Ian

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hi Andrew,

Apologies for the delay. The new arbors are due in around 22nd January 2020.

The main difference between the new and the 'reduce to clear' rage is that the reduced to clear range have specially made screws to secure the shell mills to the arbors, rather than socket cap head type screws being used on the new range. Please see link to the spare screws.

The arbors in the 'reduced to clear' range will fit the shell mills, but in certain cases, the flange type screw head may need to be turned down, or you can replace it with 'normal' socket cap head screws.

Generally, makers of the shell mills are totally different from makers of the arbors. Makers of arbors really have no idea about which type/maker of shell mill is going to be used with their arbor. Both items being generic in their own way… to a certain extent. So, most of the time, the locking screws are either the flange type or general socket cap head screws.

With the new range, we managed to make the new arbor making factory 'talk – discuss' with the shell mill maker. The idea being to try and match the arbor screw fit with the shell mill. Although this is a new product range for us, long term aim is to try and get consistency, so we also got the shell mill maker to 'work – discuss' with the factory from whom we buy the inserts.

Ketan at ARC.

[Terry KirkupParticipant @terrykirkup37827]

Merry Christmas All

Well it’s been a while since I knocked anything up on the lathe so here’s a catch-up of the last few efforts. Snore away, don’t mind me (I’m hoping to be offered some guidance, correction and helpful tips here by anyone with a minute to spare, been lucky so far!).

PART ONE
First item is formed from a 75mm chunk off a 35mm stainless bar someone donated which I figured would make a decent holder for a small toolpost-mounted drill after seeing quite a few variations on the same theme on YouTube and this and other Forums.

I should straight away point out that the best examples I’ve seen are cut as integral tool holders themselves but I don’t have any dovetail cutters to marry blocks of hard stuff to my QCTP and also this item was my first attempt at milling something on the lathe anyway, so dovetailing is well down the learning list and high up the same curve.

Being somewhat wary of milling and having only the faintest clue how to go about it (quite aside from “her” abject refusal to let me buy a dedicated machine!) I decided to hack the bulk of the unwanted SS away with hand grinder and cutting disc first to save the load on the only decent-sized end mill I’d bought so far, from a cheap set of 8 from either Warco or Arc Euro Trade.

Next job, get it square in a spare tool holder and drill an 8mm hole centrally through it in expectation of a miniature 8mm drill chuck shaft coming along later. I used a magnetic clock on the cross slide for that. My Chinese cobalt drill bit was j-u-s-t long enough to poke out the far end, must get some long ones although they seem to be expensive.

That went reasonably well if not very accurately, then it was time to mount the vertical milling slide, base plate and milling slide vise gubbins (bought from Warco with the machine) to the cross slide via the holes vacated by the standard rear toolpost using two 8mm socket screws. That’s when I came across the first problem – this little 4” vise is not really man enough to securely grab anything not flat sided much over an inch in diameter due to its shallow jaws and only just had a decent hold on the outer circumference of the bar, so I pressed on very gingerly with the 12mm end mill (from Banggood) using super light passes and amazingly got some straight cuts. It seemed to take forever to get the face square on to my chuck and take these first very tentative steps into milling but that’s down to my lack of doing that, I suppose, and my fear of breaking something or someone. Also from Banggood is the hex ER32 collet block I used for the end mill. I’ve been happy with everything I’ve had from China so far, it may not be the best finished or most accurate kit although the finish looks great to me, but it’s meeting my meagre needs and even leaner budget.

When it came time to turn the workpiece over and mill the other side it took me even longer before I was satisfied I was getting parallel cuts, but perseverance seems to have paid off. So I now have a graspable tube with a hole through it awaiting a ship from China for the final touch, the drill chuck and arbor. Or the start of further head scratching, more likely.

[Anonymous]

Posted by JasonB on 29/12/2019 13:03:28:

There is still a full range of R8 and ISO 40 available from existing stock

Yebbut they're not what I wanted!

Andrew

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I got the arbors OK and another arrived a few days ago. There is still a full range of R8 and ISO 40 available from existing stock and cheaper too.

Actually the review was done a while back as the full complement of new arbours were due well in time for Xmas stocking fillers but have been held up hence the "coming soon", Hopefully Ketan will post an update

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

A graver is a hand held turning tool often used for small work but I actuually use a couple of woodworking "scrapers" for this sort of thing.

The bulk of the filing was done with one of the Tome Long Angle Lathe files that ARC sell which shift a lot more metal than a standard file, would be nice if they did a smaller size say 6" long. This is the fine swarf that it takes off, in this case from a similar size and shape steel part.

Edited By JasonB on 27/12/2019 07:10:33