Search Results for 'arc euro'

[ianjParticipant @ians]

Maurice.

Was it here:-

**LINK**

Ian

[John CParticipant @johnc47954]

Hi Maurice,

Arc Eurotrade list them, under 'precision angle blocks'. But out of stock at present. Sorry, can't post a link from here.

John

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by mechman48 on 02/08/2014 13:00:02:

Martin… Used magnetic readouts bought from Arco Euro.. look in their index 'Measurement' for 'Digital readout bars with dedicated remote display' so far they work just fine, auto switch off so no chance of running batteries down, have had the batteries in for over a year now, look in my album for a couple of pics of how I fitted mine… as for the quick disconnect, I haven't come up with anything just yet, still mulling over it…

Cheers

George

George/Martin : Thanks for the plug..Just a small correction. They are not magnetic scales. They are cheap and simple digital readout bars which work in the same way as digital callipers. link

George, you nearly gave me a heat attack . Magnetic scales are a lot more expensive, similar/more than glass scales. Might introduce them later this year.

Ketan at ARC

Sorry, just read the post and realised it was an old post.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 04/01/2016 20:03:38

[jim’Participant @jim11037]

Posted by Dave Daniels on 02/01/2016 10:55:30:

IF !! it's the same 600W motor as a Warco WM16 it's these :

**LINK**

I think Warco charge a fair bit more for what appear to be the same brushes.

Dave

Edited By Dave Daniels on 02/01/2016 10:56:43

Edited By Dave Daniels on 02/01/2016 10:57:52

Edited By Dave Daniels on 02/01/2016 10:58:13

Excellent!!

They look just the job!!

I was just about to order some from ebay!

Thank you for your help!!

[Dave DanielsParticipant @davedaniels93256]

IF !! it's the same 600W motor as a Warco WM16 it's these :

**LINK**

 

I think Warco charge a fair bit more for what appear to be the same brushes.  

 

Dave

 

Edited By Dave Daniels on 02/01/2016 10:56:43

Edited By Dave Daniels on 02/01/2016 10:57:52

Edited By Dave Daniels on 02/01/2016 10:58:13

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Interesting I thought they all used the keyway in the lead screw for the feed apart from some of the very early ones which were rear drive. A,B or C and UD, under drive. I hadn't realised the C lacks it.

To be honest I never use the power cross feed on my ME10, it needs too much variation of feed rate and I'd rather do that by hand.

My rear bearing inner was extremely tight on the spindle. If you got your spindle out easily yours probably isn't tight. I have wondered if this is down to a bearing changes and fitting what people usually use rather than the separate outer and inner rear that can be bought at great cost. The fit seems to vary lathe to lathe.

The other thing I found when I bought and used the lathe was that the bearings needed adjusting but every time I did some heavy work they loosened again, especially opening up holes to 1" from 1/2" with a drill. All I can put it down to is the front cone not being fully home. Eventually they stayed adjusted. I did see something direct from Boxford years and years ago about making sure that the front inner was fully home against the shoulder too.

I use ArcEuro's high speed moly grease by the way on the head stock gears and the bearings. It doesn't need much on the gears just a smear. It stays there. Around 1ml or so evenly smeared on the bearings is likely to be about right. Too much isn't a good idea. Oil is the best thing to use on the change wheels as swarf is less inclined to stick to it – the lead screw too.

John

–

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

20 Quid sounds a cheap way of keeping your fingers ! NEVER wear gloves, scarfs etc. Hats – yes.

**LINK**

OK, Brass, Al etc are a problem. I use a paint brush, then a workshop vacuum cleaner, suds and all.
BobH

[Enough!Participant @enough]

Posted by Malc on 30/12/2015 19:44:37:

Hi all, I have just fitted the Arceurotrade thrust bearing set to the cross slide of my ML7

How did you do the actual modification to the cross-slide parts. Do you have a second lathe?

[MalcParticipant @malc]

Hi all, I have just fitted the Arceurotrade thrust bearing set to the cross slide of my ML7 and am really pleased with the job. I am so pleased with it that I am considering doing the same to the top slide. However the top slide end casting is smaller than the cross slide one and I am concerned that there will be very little thickness of casting left around the edges after boring out to accept the diameter of the thrust bearing. I just wondered, has anyone out there done this mod to the top slide? I have only heard of it being carried out to the cross slide.

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I tend to favour older Jacob's 1/2" chucks. There are usually a number of them about on ebay etc but often they are 2 morse. 3 morse should be around as well.

Some years ago Rotagrip had a lot of used ones about and may still have them. No facilities for a draw bar though.

I have also used one of the heavy duty ones on this page but infrequently. Seems ok and well made to me.

**LINK**

Arbour from the same source.

John

–

[Michael BriggsParticipant @michaelbriggs82422]

I recently started a thread 'Vertex or Arc' to help me choose a small vice. I have a preference for Vertex because I have some of their kit and am happy with it. In the end I decided to buy from Arc Euro Trade. I am glad I did, I bought a type 2 45mm vice and it is excellent. The springs that keep the pin block engaged in the rack make it very easy to use.

To release the vice you only need to turn the clamping screw about two turns then you tilt the key forwards to disengage the block from the rack, you can then slide the jaw fully open. To clamp the next job in the vice simply slide the jaw forwards up to the work piece and tighten the screw, the springs give it a ratchet action.

Regards, Michael

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

The Arc Euro Trade or similar square vice will do what you want. Ground all over and very accurate. As a bonus, you can mount it on its side to lower headroom required.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 27/12/2015 11:32:17

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

catch with most drill press vices is the jaw lift – maybe one of the precision vices from ArcEuro might be low enough – been happy with my one (+ a very small one that I mounted on a subplate) – MEW has had several designs for DIY vices including some low profile

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

the same table is used in the ArcEuro SX1 – Graham Meek in EIM has commented on the somewhat poor gib design and suggests replacing with ones that more nearly fill the gap – I bought a 2nd SX1 to use as a base for some digital control (keeping my current working model available for making various addons) and decided to replace the gibs with somewhat wider brass being more easily obtainable, rather than Meek’s suggested cast iron, the originals being steel (which should work well on against a cast iron bed) – one of the original gibs was actually significantly banana shaped would happily spin round on a surface plate – I’d always had some problems with keeping the gibs on my original in good adjustment – easy movement in centre often resulted in too tight a movement at extreme travel whilst easing here tended to give some play in centre thus I suspect one of the gibs on my original is also banana shaped as Meek comments that only a small adjustment no more than hand tight of the centre screw should be needed to fully lock the gib

Edited By Frances IoM on 26/12/2015 21:44:46

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I had one of these a while back. They have increased the capacity across the width since then. With some pretty careful setting of the gibs it's not too bad to use. Unlike some it has a 3 morse spindle as well.

**LINK**

Little noisy due to the gears but not over the top. The owner after me was pleased with it too.

The one before me wasn't. Reckon to budget on a milling chuck and a good solid vice as well as the machine.

There is also a roughly similar machine from Sieg but I know nothing about it.

**LINK**

Arc are also a good place to look for a milling vice. There is a cheap one about that tilts and the tilt is held up by bits of plate steel – my advice would be don't. Go for a basic decent quality one.

John

–

[David Brown 9Participant @davidbrown9]

I cannot figure out how to lock the x and y axis on my Sieg SX2P mini mill from Arceurotrade.

Does anyone have this machine who could let me know how to do this?

I am sure it is obvious, but the design seems a little different to some other Sieg SX2 mini mills and so googling hasn't helped so far.

David

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

There needs to be a certain amount of resistance to air flow around the displacement cylinder so loosely speaking the clearance could be more important than the actual sizes – within reason.

To ream or not to ream. I would say that might relate to the measuring gear that is available. 3 point bore micrometer can measure bores very precisely but are rather expensive. We are usually stuck with the transfer measurements such as

Hole gauges

Or telescopic gauges for larger sizes

Personally I would only buy full ball and telescopic gauges the spring out on one side – good ones too. The fit of the side that telescopes out needs to be rather precise. There is a bit of knack to using them as when a measurement is taken they need to be precisely across the diameter.

Another type are these, so called bore bore gauges but often listed as bore micrometers on ebay

These should be set in a ring gauge of the required size but they can be set with a micrometer after a fashion but some sort of jig to hold these and the mic in alignment is likely to do that more precisely. They come in various sizes.

John

–

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Wolfie on 20/12/2015 12:23:52:

What you mean by blue/red/green??

Hi Wolfie,

Have a look at the chart on this page link first and decide if you are looking for retainers or thread lockers.

Then near the bottom of that page, click on relative products page, example thread lockers page link

Once you are on thread lockers page, there is another chart. Depending on which product you choose. there is a download to data sheet for each product. If you click it, it will give you further details about the product, including colour in physical properties.

For people who have a concern, yes I know that the links are to products on ARCs site, and I apologise in advance if this offends anyone. Wolfie is asking for information, so I am suggesting the links. Loctite is a great brand. Truloc is a brand which ARC sells, and specifications are similar to Loctite, so I hope that the links should help Wolfie to understand the products better, regardless of where he decides to buy them from.

Ketan at ARC.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I have the 4" from Arc Euro which fits quite well & reasonably priced… halfway down page… # 130 – 040 – 00800 which has done admirably so far, admittedly have had to tweak it to eliminate some jaw lift ( seems common on this type of vice ) & fitted T slot locating bar.

Have put a precision type 2 vice on my wish list for next year… # 130 – 040 – 02000… maybe others who have this type already can give you ( and me ) further info on it's performance

**LINK**

Usual disclaimer…

George.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Bob,

I have a small milling machine resembling the Warco WM16, the main difference is that mine has a MT 3 spindle (and is a bit heavier), the WM 16 has MT 2. The WM 16 is slightly heavier than what you want, but it is easy to remove the head when moving it into your workshop (I did with mine). My milling machine is over three years old now, and has not given me any problems so far. If you want a milling machine with a brushless motor ARCeurotrade has the SX2 Plus, slightly smaller than the WM 16. With what I know today I would buy a heavier milling than the one I have, and get some friends to help me get the machine into the workshop.

Where I live there are several small shops working with steel or with aluminium, and they let me buy off cuts, so ask around. There is also several metal suppliers that advertise on this site.

Thor

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

I should state that I have not used any of the machines but I have had my grubby maulers on them.

The price of a WM 18 that you are considering is not quite as much but getting close to that of an SX3.

IMHO while a bit more expensive the SX3 feels a considerably better piece of kit than the WM18 – More than the price difference. It is also available in an R8 spindle.

Have a nosey. Here is the link to one. **LINK**

Regards, Nick

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Paul Davies on 18/12/2015 12:50:11:

Hi All.

I've acquired a 2MT ER25 collet chuck and collet set (the one ArcEuroTrade sell – the one with the M10 draw bar thread: 050-110-25530) and have been making an adapter to use it with my DW Mk1 mill, which has an M8 draw bar.

I purchased an M10x1.5 die and made my adapter – M10 male to M8 female.

The problem is that the adapter screws very sloppily into the collet holder. If I screw a normal M10 nut onto the adapter, there is no slop, so I guess the thread has been formed ok.

I'm wondering if the draw bar thread in these collet holders is an 'odd' M10 thread pitch. Does anyone know?

cheers

Paul

Paul,

I would suggest that the fit is fine as it is, provided you are using correct drawbar, i.e. metric M10 and not imperial. Do try out an M10 bolt as well as studding, as we have, and we confirm that there is no issue or cause for concern.

I would advise to leave the product alone without trying to modify it in any way. I would suggest that Tim Stevens comments are close to the truth and that if the fit is loose, it may be to avoid problems with distortion during hardening. But it isn't loose as to cause any issue. The drawbar – loose or tight simply holds the MT2 arbor in place to stop it from falling out. The MT2 in itself is a friction fit. If you still have doubts, return the set for a refund. Happy to take it back.

Ketan at ARC.

[Paul Relf-DaviesParticipant @paulrelf-davies37806]

So, I also emailed ArcEuroTrade about this as well as posting here & I have just had a phone call from them to explain the situation.

Apparently the thread in the collet holder is deliberately cut a very little loose, to facilitate unscrewing. The theory is that the holder is being held in the quill by the taper. The draw bar and hence the thread is only there to provide a little security. Indeed, they confirmed that an M10 bolt would also be a little slack in the thread. This seems to make a certain amount of sense… after all would you want to end up with the collet holder and the draw-bar as a single piece, due to a jammed thread…?

To be completely honest, the adapter, as it stands, seems to function exactly as intended. Also I have to say that the customer service I have received from them on this is exemplary.

Cheers & Merry Christmas!

Paul.

[Paul Relf-DaviesParticipant @paulrelf-davies37806]

Hi All.

I've acquired a 2MT ER25 collet chuck and collet set (the one ArcEuroTrade sell – the one with the M10 draw bar thread: 050-110-25530) and have been making an adapter to use it with my DW Mk1 mill, which has an M8 draw bar.

I purchased an M10x1.5 die and made my adapter – M10 male to M8 female.

The problem is that the adapter screws very sloppily into the collet holder. If I screw a normal M10 nut onto the adapter, there is no slop, so I guess the thread has been formed ok.

I'm wondering if the draw bar thread in these collet holders is an 'odd' M10 thread pitch. Does anyone know?

cheers

Paul

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

This is my steady, from Arc. It works just like the one on the Denford except it doesn't open up, and probably has even more meat in it..

This (from Machine Mart) is the steady for the Cl500M which I think is equivalent to the Chester B Super Multi.

It has screws to remove any play in the fingers. The locking mechanism looks OK to me, but it sounds like Martyn is running out of adjustment before it locks? Or maybe, as Jason suggests, paint needs to be removed from underneath.

Other possibility would be a high spot on the contact surface, which should be easy to correct with a bit of blue.

Neil