Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hi Iain,

Just some bits of clarification. You have put the wrong link in the original post.

The link you have put is for an SC3 (Super C3 lathe), which is a BRUSHLESS motor machine with belt drive. It does not have any high/low gears, as torque is governed my the circuit board on those machines.

Your SPG lathe is close to a C2 lathe. It is not a C3 which is BRUSHED motor driven with high/low gear. We do not sell the C3 BRUSHED motor lathe any more either. It does get confused with the SC3 (Super C3) lathe, and as a result, some competitors do take advantage of this confusion.

Anyway, C2 and C3 BRUSHED motor lathes are close to each other. This is the link to the dismantling guide for the C3 BRUSHED motor lathe.

for everything else, refer to the comments on this thread.

Ketan at ARC.

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Some very unusual observations on here.

HF is a very ruthless but fascinating operation. Seriously large buying power. Look up boardroom battles where son overthrows father. Look up employee dis-satisfaction threads, and within China, the fathers escapades are legendary, where private jets get special access to restricted airports, with presidential VIP treatment motorcades back in the 80s. At exhibitions, buyers go to sellers stands. In HFs case, they had/have their own stands sponsored as in paid for, by the city organising the exhibition, where sellers have to have appointments and meetings with the HF buyers on HFs stand. Such is their buying power. There are many powers which HF have which others in the U.S. and anywhere in the world don't. On the one hand, one can thank them for the cheap imports, and on the other, one can insult them for a lot of the crap they sell. It depends entirely on your point of view regarding product, price, principals and expectations. a little bit like Walmart.

Rip off Britain: depends on your point of view. Americans are accepting of more issues then Brits, and Australians are even less accepting, but still insist on the lowest price via predominantly eBay cheap cheap cheap sales. If we are to put the same 'quality' of certain machines on the U.K. market, issues will arise relating to 'not fit for purpose', and not complying with CE regulations (and I say this with positive interest). To comply, additional components are added to U.K. and European machines depending on how legitimate and legal the importer wants to be, which cost money, for components, as well as compliance. There is additional cost based on understanding of CE, and compliance in the language of member states. EU member states except for the U.K., have protectionism policies in this respect, to protect the importers in their own state. It is not as free circulation as we think, or as we are, as a trading island.

Volume of consumption: U.S. volume buying power is huge. I say this based on facts and figures which I have access to. It is thanks to them that we see what we see in Europe today. Again, you can see this in a positive or negative manner – 'costing us jobs' as some would say. Whilst the population of the EU is 30% more than the U.S., in the U.S. they speak one language, with one wall plug, with one method of learning, understanding, mentality, and thinking, in that language, for the majority. Not the same in Europe.

When comparing prices, those stated on U.S. sites are all excluding any tax. Prices in the U.K. include tax. Combine that with the buying power of an average importer in the U.S. in terms of volume. Now look at the geographical size of the U.S. with the number of 'real importers', and you will find a handful of importers serving an english speaking market which is geographically five times larger than the U.K.. In comparison, in U.K. there are around six importers serving may be a fifth of the American market size. So, one U.S. importer = about five U.K. importers? this of coarse excludes HF. No comparisons can be drawn against them with political interests on all sides!.

Keeping this in mind, we now deal with regulatory requirements in the U.K., to include overheads, property costs, rent, rates, taxes, which are in many respects higher than the U.S., all things considered. CE compliance, WEEE compliance are additional costs which the U.S. importers are not subjected to. These are serious costs, which some of our importers also choose to ignore.

One key issue I accept is that U.K. machine importers manuals are crap. Considering the competition within the U.K., and it is tough, given the market size, what incentive does one have to invest in them, when Grizzlys manuals are so great?. For example, many on here have purchased machines from our competitors, and referred to Dismantling guides from ARC. So what it didn't cost ARC any money to prepare them or to get them published?..Not a sour grapes issues, just economic sense. As far as risk assessments are concerned, in ARCs case, we consider compliance costs to be a greater issue. We may be wrong, but there we go. I accept that there is always room for improvement, and the answer is not so simple.

Trans-European operation: Clarke – Machine Mart are the nearest people to have adopted this model, semi-successfully. They have great buying power, but the collective European overheads for small shops in comparison with giant American warehouse outlets are different. Even they would find it difficult to buy and sell the volumes which the Americans dictate.

Other well known U.K. with European 'big brands' mentioned on this forum have tried to form Trans-European 'cartels' and failed. For commercial reasons, I cannot disclose who they are, but I can back-up the comments I make, wether you choose to believe me or not.

Profit margins with certain U.K. importers – legitimate, or ones who are failing to comply with the law, are still not as great as you think. However, you choose to believe what you want. We all have an opinion, this is a hobby, we can do as we please, be happy and buy from any dealer, eBay, or anywhere else.

Ketan at ARC.

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

So I first post a couple of weeks ago with a milling machine problem which ended up with stripped gears (my fault of course, not due to any advice).

Now I need to post with a lathe problem which appears to be stripped gears.

Basically I had a big but of steel rod (90mm diameter and about 120 long) mounted in the chuck rotating at moderate speed and got a bit too quick with the cross slide.

As with the first post, the metal came from a scrapyard and for all I know it's mega hard. NO more scrapyarding for me!

The low gear appears stripped – high gear engages and works, low gear doesn't spin the spindle or catches occasionally.

My options are to send the lathe back to a professional or to have a go.

I'm not keen on the send the lathe back. I'd either have to drive halfway down the country (twice probably) or spend a fortune on carriage – all for a 5 pound gear.

Before I attempt this (or decide to attempt this), I wanted to see what I would need to do the job.

The lathe (SPG0618A from SPG tools in Hinckley) is similar to the C3 as sold by Arceurotrade which has a lovely disassembly guide here .

I expect the process is much the same, though I am by no means certain the parts are compatible.

From what I can see I would need a press of some kind and something to hold onto the bearings whilst they are being pressed out.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a suitable press? Is there anything else which I should think about? Should I look to replacing with metal gears (if SPG Tools or someone else has them)? Should I bother with the bearing swap which Arceurotrade offers? I must say I don't seem to have much chatter and so on.

Or, having shown my ineptness, should I give in and get a proper engineer to sort it?

Iain

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Arc do some rotary tables that are somewhat different to the usual offerings. Might help, not sure.

**LINK**

John

–

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

If you buy Sieg and need spares, you'll probably end up ringing Arceurotrade to get hold of them anyway, they either have or can get what you need.

[Luke MosleyParticipant @lukemosley27661]

Hi, I'm looking to get my first lathe and after months of research I finally have the funds but am still torn between the Axminster SC2 and the Super C3 from arc eurotrade.

Both lathes seem to have a great reputation, are more or less the same and around the same sort of price point however the Super C3 is slightly cheaper and also has a 100mm longer bed. Il only be turning small parts but obviously slightly larger is better. Is there much difference between the quality of the two and which should I go for?

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

Iain, if you look at the thread Postman Cometh Part 2 near the end Nick G. has a photo of a button tool mounted in a flycutter. It may be worth you trying this sort of setup. A small flycutter that can hold a 6mm square (or 1/4" square) tool and a Ø6mm button tool can be used quite satisfactorily for interrupted cuts. It does not require sharpening like a piece of HSS would, just rotate to a sharp edge or replace the insert as required. You will probably need a flycutter at some time if you have not got one yet anyway. Just don't go at it like a bull in a china shop, small depth of cut will do the job with time.

ArcEuroTrade and others sell a small set of flycutters with a Ø12mm shank that would suit a small mill.

Chronos sell 6mm lathe profiling tools (ref 773851)

Martin

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

Lots of end mills are able to plunge/centre cut. The mill manufacturers are not going to get into an argument about was the end mill in use flat bottomed or not so they just put a spec on the machine that covers all end mills. The ends of most are flat or very close to flat and the outer ends of the cutting edges are where most of the torque will be generated. A small degree of hollow grinding will not stop recutting of swarf or small particles getting in the gap and dragged around. A face mill is more likely to push swarf away from the cutting area than an end mill because there is somewhere for it to go.

Iain, the carbide inserts in the links you posted are zero top rake. Probably not designed for steel and a small hobby mill. If these are what you are using try getting some inserts with the same shape and size designed for steel and with a chip breaker edge and see what the difference is when they are used to cut steel. The flat faced inserts are designed to be tough for a long life but need a machine that is high torque and stiff to make good use of them. For a small hobby machine you want inserts that have "light cutting geometry" as Sandvik call it. The inserts really need to be matched to the material they are being used on.

Search on Ebay for TNMG and you will see a lot of inserts with a chip-breaker edge which will probably suit your machine better than those shown on the ArcEuroTrade site. I don't think the holes in the centre will be a problem for clamping as shown in your link.

Martin

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

Hi, Martin. I get the point and I must say I've mostly being milling Aluminium so far.

The 'end mill' I've been using is this one from ArcEuroTrade

You will see that it has relatively little cutting area – more like the point of a lathe tool or a flycutter than a normal end mill.

The reason that I'm been awkward about this is that I love this tool! Not for cutting chunks out and stuff, but it gives a much better surface than any of my end mills.

When I get my new gears I will have another go. If I keep getting problems then I will regretfully reserve this tool for Aluminium.

Would a flycutter like this one be a reasonable choice for a small mill? I would have thought it would actually load the mill more than the carbide cutter I've been using – especially as it's a single cutter and the radius, would be larger than the 19mm of the end mill.

Cheers

Iain

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

How about Stevensons 10-20-40 or 20 -40-80 mm blocks from ArcEuroTrade? Not what you asked for I know,but needs must sometimes

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Ian Phillips on 30/11/2015 17:24:59:

I have a small machine vice very similar to the Arc Euro Type 2 and I am now thinking of getting one with 98mm wide jaws.

Ian P

If it works, this is a link to the type of vice

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/imagecache/d5ab730a-0fe3-4219-b327-a43000a3217b_700x204.jpg

Hi Ian,

Just for clarification, looking at the size and description, I think you are referring to 98mm Type 3 on this page

I understand what Tim is saying too. So, I went and had a look at the 98mm Type 3. There seems to be enough meat to do what you are proposing, without compromisng on the rigidity.

Type 2 – which is also on the same page, has stots along the full length of the body.

Type 1 and 2 are made for a famous Taiwan brand by factory 'A'.

Type 3 – which you are considering, is made for a different famous Taiwan brand by factory 'B'.

Ketan at ARC.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Alan,
You can find this manual by doing a Google search for "Eurotherm Drive manual"

Les.

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

I have a very small type 1 ArcEuro vice that has two threaded holes on base – made a small plate to allow fitting on my X1 when drilling small parts.

Is there enough meat to dril + tap say 4 holes in the base and then fix to a subplate?

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

I have a small machine vice very similar to the Arc Euro Type 2 and I am now thinking of getting one with 98mm wide jaws.

Each side of the body has a groove to accept hold-down clamps. Unfortunately these grooves are not the full length of the body and I frequently find that I want to put a clamp where it wont go!

The vice is fully hardened and I wondered what would be the best way to extend the grooves. Even if the HRC50-55 steel was machinable with say, a carbide end mill I doubt my mill is man enough to make a good job of it.

One thought I had is to mount a thin cutting disk (angle grinder type) in the vertical mill spindle and cut a series of slits like the teeth of comb to remove the bulk of material and then break off the tines before cleaning up the groove bottom.

Ian P

If it works, this is a link to the type of vice

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/imagecache/d5ab730a-0fe3-4219-b327-a43000a3217b_700x204.jpg

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

I have ordered two of the 2mm dies from Arc Euro and they should be here in about 10 days. I thought I better order two dies as the postage cost is the same.

I made two of part number 17 today. I seem to have a problem getting small parts to run true in the chuck before I start machining them. Is this where a four jaw chuck would be useful ? The four jaw chucks are still on their way from China…on a very slow boat !

The 3mm stainless steel rod I have is oversize too at 3.15mm and does not fit the bush so I have ordered some more from Hong Kong. I am hoping that it will be slightly undersize. I could bore out the hole a bit more but I was worried about making the walls too thin.

Edited By Brian John on 30/11/2015 06:42:18

Edited By Brian John on 30/11/2015 06:42:40

[Michael BriggsParticipant @michaelbriggs82422]

Hello all,

I am looking to purchase a new vice for my milling machine, approximately 50mm jaw width. I initially favoured Vertex because I have bought several pieces of kit from them and have been happy all of them. Can anyone give me feedback regarding the Arceuro type 2 precision tool vice, it looks good but you can't beat end user experience..

Regards,

Michael

[richard 2Participant @richard2]

Many thanks everyone – especially Neil.

More info to you all is that I am 83, and the spindle is not just running out of truth but the whole spindle seems to have moved in the housing. I am well aware that this is just about impossible and I suspect that anyone with a bit of engineering knowledge could put it right.

However, as I also am thinking of changing my band-saw and have a never used lever feed for the ML7 tailstock (bought the day before my Tri-lever changed into a Super 7B which also has a rack-feed on tailstock and a Newton-Tesla inverter unit & DRO) I am going to offer them to a local tool dealer and buy a smaller mill from ArcEuro which is belt-driven with variable speed control. For all that I do I think that machine will be ideal.

I can no longer lug heavy engines around so I am enjoying making simple bits and pieces from the mag.

My S7B now cuts metric and BA threads and the DRO makes life simple.

Metric does not frighten me any more.

Once again – many thanks and best wishes to you all on this marvellous site.

Richard.

[colin hawesParticipant @colinhawes85982]

I repaired a friends mini mill with metal gears from Arc-euro and was surprised that it was not as noisy as expected but at the time I noticed that the plastic gear on the motor was also well worn but it is still going after about 9 months. I did slap lots of grease on the metal gears though.

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

Well an update from me.

I got the replacement gears and fitted them, but I'm still having trouble. Firstly I wasn't very happy with the sounds coming from the gear train – it seemed noisier than it used to be.

I managed to complete the squaring up of my bit of mysterious steel and re-face the big side with my new 3/4 MT2 carbide end mill. This kind of seemed to work but it seems to dig in intermittently leaving a score a few though deeper.

Now I'm trying to mill a V groove in it with a 10mm HSS end mill (taking .5mm or less off each time) and it was going OK, but under any kind of load the spindle would stop rotating, but the motor kept going.

I've stripped it down again and what I've found is that the (new) lower spindle gear is worn over half the width and about 1/6th of the circumference as if it was rotating eccentrically.

The feeling I'm getting is that the two gear's aren't meshing correctly. Is it possible that he gears from Arc Euro Trade for the Super X1L do not in fact exactly match the ones for the Clarke CMD10?

I've ordered a replacement from Arc, but I don't have a great deal of hope that this will fix the problem.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by fizzy on 28/11/2015 19:13:46:

I tell you its near impossible on my x2 – slow speed = very low torque. Might be better on later models with better motor but not on mine.

It all depends on how much you have s****d it fizzy ….For example, on the older X2s – brushed motor versions, we used to come across customers who had used fly cutters which had jammed for one reason or another many times, and the fault light came on suggesting to 're-consider' what you are doing. Still, some of these guys persisted in carrying on, resulting in more jams = fault lights. At some point, the control board may partly or fully give up the ghost. There is only so much that it (the board) or the motor can take. In turn, with regular faults over time, their machines somehow lost torque at the lower end due to possible fault developing on the control board?…This also used to happen if they 'tweaked' the component the wrong way or too much (dont know correct name/dont know correct direction) on the control board, or if the said component setting wasn't right or had moved/changed. If you look at the board on this page about two thirds of the way down, I believe that it is one of the three blue pots which can be set by using a + screw driver. They are usually covered by some kind of wax. You can adjust them, but not recommended, as if you get it wrong, one adjustment can effect another, as extremely minute adjustments are required.

Ketan at ARC

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

If you use an MT2 arbor in a MT3 spindle then you can buy a sleeve with a threaded ring which allows you to extract the tool without banging the hell out of it. Arceuro have them I am sure.

Clive

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Nice job Michael. I too had a dose of the wobbly arbors. I cheated by using a blank end MT3 arbors from Arceurotrade, very little work work is needed to make them up. The MT2 sizes are really cost effective for this purpose – £3.78

Steve

[VicParticipant @vic]

I use a MT3 stub arbor from Arceurotrade on my admittedly larger mill. Most of my saws are about 3" with a 1" bore although I do have some smaller and larger ones. I used to use a small 1/2" shank arbor but it tended to self tighten in use making it difficult to change the blades. Unlike my new arbor which only takes 1" bore blades the small arbor could take different sizes from 1/2" – 1" so they do have their uses I guess.

[IgnatzParticipant @ignatz]

Hey everybody, just have another question in connection with my new (used) CH-10M vertical milling drilling machine (think Seig X2). The spindle on this thing is bored out for MT3 tooling and has a 12M-threaded drawbar.

I am sort of giving the nod to the tooling offered by the people at Arc Euro Trade. It would seem that I have the following choices.

If I mount a slitting saw arbor that is has direct fit MT3 taper shank on this mill then it looks like I have to use either 63mm diamter slitting saws (on a 16mm stub arbor) or else 80mm diameter slitting saws (on a 22mm stub arbor).

On the other hand, should I opt for stub arbors having the MT2 taper and then use a Morse Taper adaptor sleeve (MT3 to MT2) I can use slitting of either 50mm in diameter or else 63mm in diameter.

So now the questions:

A) What size of slitting saw can this thing can reasonably and safely swing? I know that the gearing on this little mill is a potential weak point (can shed transmission gear teeth when overstressed) and that no matter what slitting saw I choose I would have to advance the work slowly and carefully. But should I actually be afraid of mounting the larger diameter slitting saws?

B) Does the CH-10M mill actually even have enough 'oomph' to use the larger diameter slitting saws?

C) If I wanted to go for the smallest diameter slitting saws (50mm) I would need to use an adaptor sleeve (as well as cobble together an M10 drawbar). Is this a bad idea? Does the use of an adaptor sleeve necessarily mean I'm going to get more tool runout?

Any comments or advice richly appreciated.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Nice work, Nik!

If you are planning to sharpen End Mills, Slot Drills, or Twist Drills on the Worden, the standard advice from Hemingway, some time ago, was to make a holder for each one.

Instead, my method was to take a piece of 1" sq stel and turn an internal taper, (8 degree topslide offset) and an external 1.5mm pitch thread for ER Collets. The Closing Nut (s) came from ArcEuroTrade.

For most jobs, ER20 will suffice, upto 13mm.

Otherwise, I would have hordes of shop made collets, and nowhere to store them.

For drill sharpening, with the Hemingway accessory, I did turn the back of the nut to 31 degrees, to aid location against the main toolholder block.

You have years of pleasure ahead of you!

Howard