Search Results for 'arc euro'

[NigeParticipant @nige81730]

I need to buy a back/face plate for the Myford ML4 to help set up the headstock alignment. I can get a back plate from ArcEurotrade, They are advertised as 'threaded to suit Myford BPM125'. I have measured the thread on the mandrel nose and it appears to be 12 TPI (Whitworth??) and 1.1250" diameter. Is this a 'standard' mandrel thread on Myfords please?

Edited By Nige on 01/08/2017 13:40:12

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

Hi David,

I think Thomas has a point, the chuck does look a bit on the large side.

I have just bought a mini chuck from Arc euro trade 4mm capacity and jto taper, it's a good chuck.

geoff

[Ken WeeksParticipant @kenweeks58536]

I have a modified digital caliper fitted to my Myford tail stock.

The display on the caliper is difficult to read (eyes are not what they used to be) I would like to attach a remote display nothing fancy just to display the read out figures.

Any Ideas/suggestions?

I have a Arceurotrade 6" Digital readout bar with remote display.

The remote display is connected to the bar with a mini USB cable and contains two 3v battery.

I have a cable that will fit to the caliper and I can fit a mini USB plug.

Could this be modified for use with the display?

Ken

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Larry,

I am sure the changewheels that Arceurotrade sell do fit the Seig machines they sell, if they do not you can complain.

But if you try them on a Real Bull you takes your choice. Bit like trying to mend a BMW with VW parts!!

[Bob StevensonParticipant @bobstevenson13909]

I think I can guess what this is about;…….

Mini-lathes are made by two different Chinese factories, at least as far as the lathes that come to to the UK are concerned. These are 'Sieg' and 'Real Bull'. Although the lathes are essentially the same design there are some detail differences, one of which is the change wheels. Internal diameter is the same but the key-way cut-out causes a problem if you wish to fit Sieg wheels on a Real Bull machine.

You need to enlarge the key-way slot 1mm wider to fit and the best way that i have found is to carefully cut the sides of the slot away using a scalpel, while repeatedly trying for a fit…… The wheels are made of a 'delrin' type of material and abrasive methods are tricky and difficult so firm cuts are needed. Once you have done a wheel it gets much easier to do.

The only source of wheels i could find in UK for my Real Bull lathe (Chester Conquest) was Arceurotrade who only have the Seig wheels.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

When it comes to buying, go for one of the advertisers on this site rather than take pot-luck on ebay, or – even worse – order direct from china. The reason is that the likes of ArcEuroTrade and Warco etc will support you in the unlikely event that you get a dud. If the worst happens you can get your money back.

Beware of cheap offers on the web. It seems that the importers mentioned go to some lengths to pick the better examples, but their rejects still go on sale somewhere.

What you get from the different suppliers varies slightly, obviously the paint job, more subtly perhaps in the size and type of motor, and the tooling provided. That said, the breed all have similar capabilities, and – in my opinion – minor differences aren't worth worrying about.

For what it's worth I got all my stuff from Warco. Other posters speak highly of ArcEuroTrade, Axminster and others. It all worked out of the box. Nothing horrible found though it all benefited from minor tweaking. (Hobby lathes are made down to a price so don't expect perfection.)

The lathes come well equipped but you will almost certainly need a set of HSS or Indexable cutters. I started with a 6mm HSS Set about £25.

Enjoy!

Dave

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

That nice man Ketan at ARC does a couple of 10mm ones

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

Posted by Nige on 26/07/2017 21:24:05:

Does anybody have any experience, good or bad with these cutting fluids please.

MAXCUT No.5 Chlorine Free Neat Tapping & Cutting Fluid

from Arc Eurotrade and

Multispec Cutting & Tapping Fluid (Ref: MT5)

from Chronos.

Nige,

I've used the Arc product and Dormer Supercut (**LINK**) but got fed up with the high price and bought some of this oil off ebay **LINK**.

Twice the price for 5 times the quantity and seems to do the job for me.

HTH

Jon

[NigeParticipant @nige81730]

Does anybody have any experience, good or bad with these cutting fluids please.

MAXCUT No.5 Chlorine Free Neat Tapping & Cutting Fluid

from Arc Eurotrade and

Multispec Cutting & Tapping Fluid (Ref: MT5)

from Chronos.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 25/07/2017 21:20:15:

…Harrison's jackbooted authoritarian streak comes to the surface, brutally making 187-year-old Jill Archer accept a caution for assault with a deadly flapjack.

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 25/07/2017 21:22:19

Not at all. This is just the start.

The Archer's onlty makes sense when you realise that Jill is 'Boss' of the Borchester Cosa Nostra.

Many mysterious deaths and comings and goings are down toJill and her criminal empire. She bumped off Grace. She was the brains behind the great mail-van robbery and smuggled Nelson Gabriel out of the country when the heist went sour. Later. when Nelson threatened to talk, she used her cartel contacts in South America to have him rubbed out. Mark Hebden, Caroline, Freda, Dan, John, Nigel and Sid all died suddenly to Jill's advantage. It was Jill who set the Russian Mafia on Matt Crawford. It's Jill who supplies guns to the Horrobins. Jazzer, Rob and Tom Forrest are soldiers. After a hit went wrong Jill got Tom off on a manslaughter charge. Jazzer fed Betty Tucker to the pigs: no-one really believes she moved to New Zealand. Some think he did the same to Debbie and Ed Grundy. Rob flooded Ambridge for the Insurance. Jazzer, Ed, Alastair Lloyd and and Kenton run drugs and gambling. Kenton's Antique Shop was a front for receiving stolen goods. For many years Kenton ran the Triad end of the operation, the Merchant Navy being cover for smuggling most of Europe's herion. Nobody talks about what grows in the polytunnels. Jill uses the Archer Businesses and Brian Aldridge to launder drug money on a large scale.

How has Jill got away with all this for so long? She is deep undercover for the Security Service: eveyone knows that Pru Forrest is 'M' .

Never listen to it myself….

 

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 26/07/2017 10:30:14

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Gentlemen,

Some replies are due I think

​Andrew Johnson ​You are indeed quite right, the error is per pitch, a silly oversight of mine. I hope it hasn't mislead others, thank you for pointing it out

​Neil Lickfield If Crowood Books have an agent in NZ they are the publishers, otherwise Amazon have them on sale, as do Arc Eurotrade. I don't know if Arc post to NZ The ISBN number is ISBN 978-1-78500-250-2

​Simon Williams 3 There are of course many other wheel/gearbox combinations that produce results of larger error, much depends on what the user is prepared to accept. My book lists results which fell within defined limits which I considered acceptable.

Best regards
​Brian

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Bearing Block

Drawing #8

Start by milling up a block of aluminium to the overall 16x22x17mm. Then hold in the mill vice with the top facing upwards and locate it centrally below the spindle followed by drilling the two M2.5 clearance holes.

Change to a 6mm dia cutter, touch off on the top of the block and then lower so you are taking a 3mm high cut, cut in 4.29mm from each side and while at that height bring the cutter in from each side to form the counterbore centrally over the stud holes.

Now holding the block on it side drill and then bore for the bearings aiming for a light press fit, if you over do it then a high temperature Loctite such as 648 can be used to retain the bearings. I opted to use number 686 unshielded bearings which are 6x13x3.5 from ARCEurotrade but 12mm OD ones would work just as well. As the flame can lick around the bearings avoid ones with rubber seals though if you have some to hand the seal can be flicked out with a pin or small jewlers screwdriver.

The last job is to round over the top, I did it by holding the work on a mandrel and then taking cuts at 5degree intervals on the spin indexer and then finished with a file. Could also be done on a rotary table or just by filing.

You can now fit the bearings, slip in the crankshaft and check all turns over nice and smoothly.

Included on the drawing are the 4 simple turned "washers" that fit into the counterbored holes in the sub base, once bonded in with JBWeld or similar they will look like cast. bosses. Turn and drill sufficient material for the 4 parts and an allowance for parting cuts and then part them off and deburr.

J

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

looks like a Sieg SX1L as supplied by Arc Euro (tho they state the long table SX1L is exclusive to them – their ‘house’ colour is red) but later fitted with the stepper motors to drive the head and table using what looks like ball races (rather expensive mod which if fitted to the table requires John Stevenson style ‘butchery’ -as described in a thread on this forum some time ago – may be it got a repaint at the same time

Edited By Frances IoM on 16/07/2017 09:01:41

Edited By Frances IoM on 16/07/2017 09:05:32

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

Sooo, my mini mill says the arbor is MT#2 and I bought an MT2 22mm arbor but doesn't match – the quill(?) is far too long and has threaded end http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Slitting-Saws-and-Arbors/MT2-Stub-Milling-Arbor-22mm

I am probably having a senior moment – can anyone offer advice please?

Plenty more dumb questions where this one came from

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

I think this from Ketan's empire would do as well as the chuck grease that I bought once –**LINK**

[MikeParticipant @mike89748]

Thanks, Chris, for the tip to Google for Rotagrip. However, their prices! For some time I have been looking for outside jaws for a 4in for a 3-jaw Pratt Burnerd. They want £149.04. I know we have to pay for quality, but a complete chuck of Indian origin from ARC Eurotrade costs a lot less than that, and would be quite accurate enough for my purposes.

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

The cross slide spindle bearing mod. is from Arceurotrade. Is the lathe metric or imperial? Clive

[Tim StevensParticipant @timstevens64731]

Can I suggest that this is not merely a matter of the make or the origin of a qctp for a Myford? Most such devices, wherever made, leave too little clearance (or none at all, generally) above the surface of the Myford cross slide. I have found that Arc Euro thingy offer a set which is set up specifically to overcome this difficulty – and I know because they helped me in my search. I am sure that you can find others, if you know exactly what to look for, but Ketan is awaiting your call, I'm sure.

Regards, Tim

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

As a complete beginner I rejected the idea of buying second-hand mainly because I didn't know how to spot problems or how to fix them or how much spares might cost. Nor did I have a clear idea what accessories would be needed, what I would do about 3-phase power (if needed), or even getting the thing home. And if it's a crock, you're stuck with it.

Unless you have very deep pockets, a new lathe will probably be Chinese in origin. A range of similar designs are rebranded for sale in the west. On the positive side, they usually come with all the basic accessories and, I think, are fine for most hobby use. But they are not of identical build quality or specification (eg motor power and type varies).

I would avoid buying one direct from China or cheap from a random ebay supplier in case it happens to be a dud. By buying from a reputable UK supplier, you de-risk the purchase if something is wrong. Also, it appears that the reputable UK importers of Chinese kit put some effort into sourcing better examples of the breed.

I bought most of my kit from Warco with only minor issues. When there was a problem, they responded.

Others speak highly of ArcEuroTrade, and I've not noticed showers of complaints about MachineMart, Axminster or any of the other advertisers in MEW and ME. I know nothing of Sealey.

One snippet of advice that turned out good is to buy the biggest you can. BUT bear in mind it has to fit into your workshop, and will be heavy. I started with a Minilathe partly because they are affordable, but mostly because it was easy to move into the limited space I had available at the time. I'd say at least 80% of what I do can be done on a mini-lathe, but a bigger machine just makes many jobs easier.

You didn't mention metric vs imperial. Buy the type you use most. For me this is metric, but you might be better off going imperial if you're going to build classic locomotive designs because old plans are usually imperial.

Dave

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Malcolm Samuels on 08/07/2017 15:39:05:

Advice Please:
I'm considering buying a lathe, but which one?

I looked online at:

a: Myford Super 7
used & recons in all prices.

The Super 7 is a pretty nice bit of kit IF you get a good one. But it's like buying a 30 year old (or older) used car: you need to know what you are looking at or you could get sold a pup. If you can find a good condition genuine low mileage job, or one that has been properly reconditioned by Myford themselves or a competent professional etc, and can afford teh price tag, it should be a good machine. Beware the dungers that have been "reconditioned" with a lick of paint and a bit of bodgeying up though. Like I said, much like buying an old used car. And don't believe teh old chestnut about them being the "Rolls Royce" of lathes. They were made int he same country but the Myford was definitely built down to a price for the everyman home hobby market.

It's a good size for home workshop use on run of the mill modelling work and motorbike restoration etc. There are plenty of parts and accessories available and multiple books on maintaining, operating and making accessores for the Myfords too.

It seems the other big choice for beginners is a Chinese mini-lathe such as the Sieg C3 available from reputable sellers such as ArcEurotrade etc. Smaller than the Myford but very popular and you get a brand new machine delivered to your door, with also plenty of accessories, parts, projects, books and information available. Might be worth a look.

Edited By Hopper on 09/07/2017 09:59:22

[Gary MagowanParticipant @garymagowan]

Sorry to bother you good gets again and thanks for resolving my previous issues through relocating to France.

Today I went to my local Leclerc Bati and acquired an 11kg propane bottle. Alas and alack when I tried to connect my Sievert torc kit that I bought, in England, a few years ago it was something of a mismatch.

So off to Leclerc Bati again, complete with torch hose and pressure regulator to see if I could find a way of making the connection.

After a lengthy explanation in my best franglais, rubbish that is, I came away diaappointed.

It seems, after subsequent research on the Sievert website, that the French union to propane bottles does not conform to any european standard?

I was offered apressure regulator to fit the bottle but its out let thread would not fit my hose.

Has anyone else come across this problem and if so did you find a solution? please help.

[Henry ArtistParticipant @henryartist43508]

I have a Sieg SX1LP which I purchased from ArcEuroTrade. It is sufficient for my modest needs as I only build small steam engine models as a hobby.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Welcome to the forum

You are best holding the gear cutters on a milling arbor, most of these will fit into the Morse or R8 spindle of your mill. You need to buy the right size for your particular cutter, Imperial DP ones will usually have a 1" bore but Metric MOD sizes quite often have a 22mm bore

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

My choice has been ER Collets, since they cover a nominal size range of 1mm (0.5mm for the smaller types such as ER11 and ER16) and so can be used for Imperial as well as Metric round material / items. The handy thing, in my view is that the holders all use a 1.5mm pitch thread, (saves me having to think/remember).

ER11 covers 1mm to 7mm; ER16 covers 1mm to 10mm, ER20 covers 1mm to 13mm, ER25 covers 1mm to 16mm,

ER32 covers 2mm to 20mm, ER40 covers 3mm to 26mm.

ER collets are also available for Imperial sizes, according to the Arc Euro Catalogue.

5C collets can be obtained, in various Metric and Imperial sizes to hold Square or Hexagonal material, as well as round.

It may still be possible to obtain new Myford collets, but will need the special Opening/closing tool.

There are other varieties of collets available, probably, mostly secondhand, now, but still useable. These are likely to restricted to only being used with material of the stated size, if injury to the collet is to be avoided.

Others, far more expert than I, will tell you that to cut a Metric thread on a lathe with an Imperial leadscrew, you will need, ideally, a 127T gear, or for slightly less accuracy a 63T gear, in the train of change wheels Others will tell you of other change wheel combinations which will achieve the same end with acceptable accuracy.

For someone with a lathe with a Metric leadscrew, the same process will allow Imperial threads to be cut.

HTH

Howard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

My lathe is actually an Engineers Tool Room BL12 – 24. (But in a different paint scheme, and with metric leadscrews and dual dials.

FWIW, in the hope that this may help you: my experiences:

1) In standard trim there is a ball oiler for the Sliding / Facing self feed contyrol; located under the Cross Slide Handwheel, and so inaccessible. With fear and trembling, I took this off, blanked the hole on the top with a bit of 6mm dia brass, and drilled another 6mm hole on the Tailstock side of the housing where it would be accessible for oiling, and fitted new ball oiler. (obtainable from WARCO or Arc Euro Trade).

2) My thread cutting dial was on the Headstock side of the Saddle, using a bit of card as a template, transferred the position of the tapped hole to the Tailstock side. While at it, marked out the housing and milled it to clear the Tailstock end block acting as bearings for the Leadscrew, Power Shaft and Forward/Reverse shaft. Made sure that everything was clean before reassembly, and hey presto, a little more travel at both ends, for the Saddle.

3) BUT pride comes before a fall, and eventually managed to run the Saddle into the Headstock under power.

This bent the feed pinion and its integral shaft, to some order! Warco quoted £38.60 + carriage + VAT for a replacement; well onto £70! With the invaluable advice of Geoff Halstead, removed the Apron and stripped it.

Bought a length of Silver Steel, (16mm from memory) and a 1.5 Mod (again from memory) gear cutter, (£28.60 in total) Made a new shaft and turned up a blank for the gear. The problems with the HV6 Rotary Table chart are related elsewhere on this Forum, but finally (Right first time eventually) produced a 13T gear and Loctited it into the new shaft and fitted a brass spacer between gear and housing (to replace the shoulder on the original shaft. While at it, turned up a nylon bung for the hole where the large gear passes into the Apron, so as to raise the oil level, to ensure plenty of lubrication for the gears and dog clutches. Replaced everything, but the capscrews for the worm housing were slack so tightened them. WRONG! Could not refit the power shaft, so remove Apron and slacken, before refitting to the Saddle, before tightening the capscrews. Short end of 5mm Allen key is too long to fit between Apron and Bed. Shorten key, good: but now fingers tilt the key so that it still does not engage the capscrews, Drive an extension onto the key to place fingers below the lathe bed. Spent 2 hours, working by feel, to tighten the four capscrews. Hurrah!

While the Apron was off, removed the Rack and ground off the first two teeth (unused) and the next two which had been damaged. Pinion now disengages from rack just before Saddle hits Headstock, but is a little difficult, at times to re engage the pinion with the Rack. Funny but the traverse along the bed feels better than original, or am I kidding myself?

4) Thought that I had primary belt slip;

Horrors!, lathe CLOSE upto wall, no easy access. Actually it was the secondary belt inside the Headstock that was slippng. Eventually found that the short lever on the inside of the Headstock was slightly slack on shaft. Disconnect the linkage and strip out the shaft and short lever. Dimple in shaft is too shallow, hence problem. Deepen dimple and reassemble. Only problem is restarting the pivot bolt into the lever. Lack of space for fingers, but using a screwdriver to provide some end load eventually succeeded. Belt is now tensioned, and off to work we go!

Hopefully you won't have these problems; all solvable; so that you have a good useable machine that will last for many years. Mine is now 14 years old, still accurate, very useable, and apleasure to use.

Howard