Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

So, have you confirmed that the Leadscrew is rotating when the chuck is?

If it is not, there is a feed lever at the back of the lathe which has three positions. This controls the Tumbler Reverse.

If you pull out the knob the lever should move, up or down.. The upper position will cause the Leadscrew to rotate in the same direction as the Chuck, (Assuming that there is a continuous gear train from Mandrel through to the Leadscrew. )

The mid position disengages the drive, so that the mandrel does not drive the Changewheels.

The lower position causes the Leadscrew to rotate in the opposite direction to the Chuck.

When you have the Leadscrew rotating, carefully refit the Apron and check if the Half nut will engage with the Leadscrew.. If the half nut engages, as you have been told, with the lathe stationary, you should not be able to move Saddle along the bed with the Handwheel. But with the chuck rotating, slowly, the Leadscrew should move the saddle along the bed.

What "make" is your mini lathe?

You really should try contacting Arc Euro Trade or Chester Hobbystore,for an Operator Manual.

You may be able to find an Operator manual for the Clarke CL300 on Google under the Clarke or Machine Mart heading. You will then be able to download and print it.

If all else fails, read the instructions!

The Sieg, S2, S3, SC2 and SC3, Chester Conquest and Clarke CL300 are all made by Sieg. Warco sell a similar lathe but made by another factory, possibly Real Bull, or Wiess.

HTH

Howard

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

So I got the chuck fitted – first time I’ve machined a backplate. I got it from Arc Euro – seemed pretty tough material and it was tricky to get a good finish. Anyway, after testing with a finger gauge I’m getting just under 0.0005” runout on the main body, and between 0.002” and 0.004” on a mill shank gripped with the jaws. As mentioned it depends which pinion is tightened:

The irony is, the 0.002” is identical to the best runout on my old chuck, but the worst in that is 0.005”. Of course the new one grips the workpiece all the way to the jaw ends, the old one I could see daylight for about 10mm from the ends.

The booklet with the chuck gives target runouts for the spindle and backplate spigot (which we’re ok), and goes on to say that runout on a test piece should be as per the spec. sheet for the chuck. Unfortunately there was no spec. sheet…

I’ve not tried rotating it on the backplate yet; might try tomorrow if I get chance. I suppose in theory I could find about another 0.0005” if I could rotate it to get rid of the body runout. Either way I think it should be ok.

[Me.Participant @me1]

HI John

Sorry for the confusion with the messages but I hadn't read your original post as was not sure who or what was going on with the random message.

I think you had the same problem as I did – the odd in-between taper size – the HERBERT taper.

I have an old Herbert taper tool you could try in your spindle, then at least you will know if it is that you need.

As mentioned in another post – I brought a BT40-BT30 taper adapter and turned the outside down to match my Herbert taper spindle – I guess it was more luck that judgement that helped me out as I don't think the way I did it was the best way but it worked and it is a spot on modification – If that is the technical word for it.

If you don't feel you want to attempt the turning then I am more than willing to help make another – the adapter was only £25 or so from ARC Eurotrade – I still have the measurements and jig Made to hold the adapter.

If you want me to send you the original taper tool then let me know – then at least you will know if it is the Herbert Taper you need.

FYI and as far as I have worked out with research the Herbert Taper is in between the 30 and 40 BT taper but not a BT35 – it has the same taper angle as the 30 but obviously fatter at the gauge line. by a few MM's

[Jim GuthrieParticipant @jimguthrie82658]

Things have moved on from the middle of January – and with some success at last. After digging around on a lot of CNC forums I opted to go for the Warp9 ESS rather than the UC100. I had noted some comments on the UC100 not handing backlash compensation very well so I opted for the ESS since it seemed to handle that facility satisfactorily. I also opted for the more reliable Ethernet ESS rather than the USB USS.

I got it just over a week ago and got it hooked up to the PC and the KX1 in the middle of last week and got the ESS talking to Mach3 with not too much problem. I got the EStop working fairly quickly but it took a day or two of messing around to get the axes working – partly finger trouble on my part setting up pins and ports wrongly. After that it took another two or three days getting the spindle working, which included a lot of digging around on the Internet for possible pointers along with experimenting with adjusting all the presets in Mach3 to see what happened. Finally yesterday I got the spindle working and I'm not sure how. The ESS had lost contact with Mach3 and I went through the setup routine again. The ESS also had its Emergency Stop red LED permanently on. So I went through several restart routines when finally the red light stayed off. Then I re-checked that the axes were working, and just tried the spindle – and it worked. So I'm not really sure what I did or the ESS did.

I'm taking the day off today to give my brain a rest but I'll get back on the case tomorrow to check out the tuning of all the axes and the spindle and to check that the limit switches are working. I've also made a safe copy of the Mach3/ESS XML settings file to go back to if I ever lose facilities in the future.

I think the original KX1 and KX3 are basically similar, with a C11G breakout board, drive boards to match the axis motors and a standard 0 – 10V spindle control driven from the C11G which converts a step and direction input. Maybe owners of the original KX3 could confirm.

I've certainly learned a lot about the KX1 over the past few weeks. When ARC Euro originally marketed the machine, the late John Stevenson was the official support with a specially set up forum. And I think John also supplied the setup files to give himself a reasonably easy life. Certainly if you stuck with John's setup of Mach3, you could get excellent work out of the machine. I remember trying to diverge from the beaten track once but had to go back to John's setup to recover my sanity. And the manual didn't help much, with precious little detail about what went on under the hood in the machine – that I've had to find out over the past few weeks to try and make sense out of setting up the new equipment.

Jim.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Mark

That tool is for sharpening the side flutes of endmills. Probably not good value for money for a ME or Home Shop type but it is a direct clone of professional equipment and, properly handled, should work well.

To use the endmill is held central in the spindle by the appropriate bush and the finger on the lower bar bought up to engage with it between the flutes. The endmill is sharpened by sliding the spindle back and forth past the grinding wheel. Twisting the spindle so the finger remains in contact with the endmill as the spindle is moved causes the sharpening cut to follow the twist of the flutes.

For obvious reasons the spindle, bore and bushes need to be highly concentric and the motion smooth. Proper industrial versions use air bearing spindles for really smooth, free, movement. Hence even a hobby market version is inevitably a pretty expensive piece of kit.

You really need something more sophisticated than an ordinary bench grinder too. Ideally a proper T&C grinder or surface grinder. If well made something like the Brooks or similar DIY versions should be up to the job. A Quorn or one of the cheaper Deckel / Alexander clones wont hack it.

The common spindexer has similar sliding spindle capabilities and, allegedly, can be made to do the same job at rather lesser price but I know of no readily available "how to do it" documentation. Seems to me there is an opportunity for a series of MEW articles, or even a slender book, on enhancements and accessories for the spindexer.

The Arc "lunar lander" only does the end flutes, and very well too by all accounts, but its possibly a fairly costly one trick pony for most folk. Not so bad when you realise that a T&C grinder is not needed. The Arc tool is much easier to use as essentially, by normal T&C grinder standards at least, no set up is required

If you have a suitably arranged grinding wheel with a sliding table the tilting block holders for sharpening end teeth, like this offering from Arc **LINK** would be both effective and economical. I have a Clarkson T&C grinder with adequate kit but, were I to buy one, the ER32 version seems vastly more convenient to use as you can change cutters and collets without taking it away from the machine.

Clive

PS Too slow on the keyboard!

 

Edited By Clive Foster on 07/02/2021 11:33:02

[Mark BParticipant @markb43031]

Sharpening end mills is something I've never got around to equipping myself with. The machines out there look fantastic, but the cost of them compared to the price of the small number of end mills I use doesn't justify the outlay. There is one from Arc Euro Trade which looks like a luna lander but at over £700 that equates to a lot of end mills!

I did stumble on this the other day which looks interesting from Amadeal.

Has anyone got experience of this and how it is used? I've tried to research it but not found any reviews of youtube videos.

[jaCK HobsonParticipant @jackhobson50760]

I think it is good to talk. Any excuse. And good to talk about things that have been talked about already in every conceivable way.

Which lathe? In this forum that should be a bit like the English discussing the weather. Everyone has an opinion and can contribute. So thanks for the question.

My conclusion is that if you don't know much about lathes, and particularly if you don't know how to evaluate the state of wear or potential troubles on an old lathe, then get a new one from one of the big distributers. ArcEuro, Amadeal, Warco, Chester, and someone I probably have forgotten – sorry. There are hundreds of people who have had great experience from all of them.

.There will be hundreds of people who have had bad experiences. Seems like that is just a risk of life.

If you know about lathes then you probably already have formed some more concrete desire for what you would like. If you have a lathe then you probably had an idea of several other lathes you would like. Sometimes those desires will not go away with simple reasoning and you have to get it out of your system. It might end in dissapointment but it is the only way.

 

I have a Myford super 7. I'm not completely happy with it. I don't get great results and, because of my ignorance, I'm not sure if it is the tool or me. It might be that the tool is worn out. It might be that it isn't set up right.

One thing I do find limiting about Myford (and all my other lathes….) is the size of the hole through the headstock. Modern lathes of similar external dimensions tend to have bigger holes.

Some things don't bother me – and because of that I might not be aware of them. The Myford has a big cross-slide. Huge travel and a big surface to bolt things to. I don't think I appreciate that enough and might find other small lathes limiting.

If my workshop dissappeard and I had cash to start again I think I might start with the ArcEuro SC5. It is relatively easy to move about. I probably wouldn't get a Myford unless I splashed out and got a nearly-new.

If I had unlimited space and funds then I want a few lathes . I want a Schaublin plain bed, A Hardinge HLV-H Lathe , a Colchester, a CNC Sherline with the massive cross slide, a Haas, a better Pultra, a Boley F1…..

Edited By jaCK Hobson on 06/02/2021 10:35:19

[Stuart Cox 3Participant @stuartcox3]

Posted by DC31k on 04/02/2021 21:11:33:

Posted by Stuart Cox 3 on 04/02/2021 20:21:19:

Thanks, I did take a look at the RDG tools listing before but they don't seem to list one at 8mm.

Sorry, clarity fell away in the search for brevity. I was going off the ArcEuro description that says it is 8.3mm high. There are a lot of 5/16" x 1/16" blades listed, but they might not be tall enough and possibly too thick. The RDG one is the correct 1.5mm width but 10mm high, and could be reduced on its underside by 1.7mm.

Thanks for your help 👍

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

Posted by Stuart Cox 3 on 04/02/2021 20:21:19:

Thanks, I did take a look at the RDG tools listing before but they don't seem to list one at 8mm.

Sorry, clarity fell away in the search for brevity. I was going off the ArcEuro description that says it is 8.3mm high. There are a lot of 5/16" x 1/16" blades listed, but they might not be tall enough and possibly too thick. The RDG one is the correct 1.5mm width but 10mm high, and could be reduced on its underside by 1.7mm.

[Stuart Cox 3Participant @stuartcox3]

Posted by JasonB on 04/02/2021 19:45:38:

Is it an HSS blade something like this

Exactly like that! Arc eurotrade are out of stock though 😕

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Is it an HSS blade something like this or one with the smaller blade like this in which case this will fit the Chronos one

Edited By JasonB on 04/02/2021 19:51:39

[HOWARDTParticipant @howardt]

Clay. I've been milling on an SX2P, with mostly carbide cutters in an ER collet on steel for the last five years ( just for background). For what you are doing virtually any type of cutter would do and it will be just a persons preference. As per my first sentence I would use carbide coated cutters, as that is what I have. The cutters I have come from ArcEurotrade in the main as they are near me, but have used Amazon and other UK suppliers and really have had little trouble other than my ham fisted approach sometimes. Mainly I use an 8mm cutter as that I have found sweet for my machine and gives good cutter life, smaller cutters are used as required but still switch back as soon as practical.

Good luck with the Stuart.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

So the old S50 throws up the first issue of it being in imperial measurement which somewhat limits the choice of cutters as the majority now are metric. I would tend towards a few general purpose cutters in metric and any specific imperial ones needed for the S50 can be purchased as needed.

A lot of the Tin coated cutters particularly thos esold in sets are a bit "tinny" and not particularly good so would personally avoid that at teh lower price scales.

TiAIN Cutters are quite common and you find this coating on the better value ones though for manual use on a model debatable if the coating gives much of an advantage.

Uncoated will also do the job and that is what has mostly been used in times past, as John mentioned it is better for Aluminium and also works well on the other non ferrous metals such as brass and Bronze.

The next thing to consider is type of cutter, again in the past it was usually a 2-flute "slot drill" or 4-flute "end mill" but now there is far more choice. I would suggest going for 3-flute cutters as they are a good compromise between the two and you don't end up starting out having to buy as many cutters.

As for sizes I see you have a Mini-mill and I suggest sticking to the smaller size cutters which can be run fairly fast so you get the motor running in it's sweet spot. For general use a 3mm, 6mm and 10mm would do to start you off plus the specific imperial ones needed for the stuart.

For the Metrics look at the HSS 3-flute cutters from APT or ARC with the TiAIN coating as you are not going to be cutting aluminium at the moment and the imperials something like the uncoated FC-3 "disposable" cutters from MSC shown on page 271 of their virtual catalogue. You could even get the metric cutters from the same page of the MSC cat particularly when they have them on their regular discount flyers – the uncoated will be fine.

Edited By JasonB on 04/02/2021 19:13:13

[IanTParticipant @iant]

One of the advantages of buying Stevenson's (metric) blocks from Arc Euro.

I have two sets of 20-40-80 blocks which are threaded/clearance for M8. I find them very useful and I will get around to making some of these accessories for them before too long…

Regards,

IanT

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Posted by JasonB on 01/02/2021 12:23:25:

The ARC ones are reasonably priced and work OK but don't know what the Aldi ones cost or you could just buy individual taps.

From the archives, Aldi set cost £16.  But only the drills were HSS.

Edited By not done it yet on 02/02/2021 06:47:43

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The ARC ones are reasonably priced and work OK but don't know what the Aldi ones cost or you could just buy individual taps.

[V8EngParticipant @v8eng]

arceurotrade (advert near top right on this page) do a modification kit for the ML7 cross slide handle which makes  operating it much better.

There is some machining required to fit the parts so I’ve linked to the details here:-

Arc ML7 Mods

Edited By V8Eng on 31/01/2021 13:33:53

[JAParticipant @ja]

ArcEurotrade had them on offer before Christmas so I bought two sizes. They look very nice but I have not used them yet. I did consider one set for a job this afternoon but…….

I have had a quick look at the video but I am rather averse to YouTube.

JA

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

You need a good wrench for the nuts. A C spanner is not very good for putting the necessary torque on the nut or for avoiding bruised knuckles either. I suggest something like this (available from many places not just ArcEurotrade) Forged ER Collet Nut Wrenches – Arc Euro Trade The correct design will also help preserve the outside of the nut from excessive wear and tear from the C spanner.

If you have flats on the collet holder body a spanner to hold against the torque from the wrench on  the nut is a good idea as well. Get a single ended one for good hand grip as well as being a cheaper option in many cases.

Martin C

 

Edited By Martin Connelly on 29/01/2021 08:46:08

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

JDS: can you have another go at posting the picture please? How to is described here. This forum's a bit different.

ER collets are a little awkward to mount correctly. They go in at a slant and then click upright and down on to the face. See ArcEuro's website for a good description.

Doh; I've just noticed Jason has already provided the same link.  

Dave

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 28/01/2021 17:44:20

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Picture not showing up but I suspect you can see a hole with an offset cut out this is so the collect can be snapped into the nut so I will ask again are you correctly fitting the collet into the nut before screwing the nut onto the chuck. If you don't do that it will push the collet sideways and give the measurements you are getting.

The nut should also pull the collet out of the chuck when undone, if the collet is staying stuck in the chuck that is an indication you have not fitted it correctly into the nut.

See pic at the top of this page the lip at the bottom of the section through the nut is smaller than the lip at the top.

 

Edited By JasonB on 28/01/2021 17:32:58

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Wow! That's a big thread! Look at Arc Eurotrade's site – they do both 5C and ER collet chucks to fit a backplate, you would need to make that (but I'm sure the lathe could eat it for breakfast). I guess they both will procure their chucks from China but there are probably UK made ones at a premium.

Or you could make a chuck from a steel billet – EN8? Bore out to clear the maximum material size and cut and thread a recess to fit the nose register at the same setting. Then reverse and screw onto the nose, bore out for ER collet taper, turn down the outside to threading depth for the nut, and you're done.  Of course you ahve the collets and also I assume a closing not, but a ball bearing closer would be nice.

Edited By John Haine on 28/01/2021 16:35:52

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

Firefox states that it blocks 3 trackers from the Arceuro site (one of which is the ubiquitous google-analytics by which site owners trade your privacy for them getting some info on your use of the web site, another is doubleclick whose function in life is to serve adverts) – however if you click on the close button on the overlay it appears that firefox allows the site to drop three cookies owned by arceuro so under Firefox default settings no real tracking and Firefox can be set to remove all cookies on closing connection

ETA obviously under Android owned by Google you would be tracked to the ends of the earth and beyond (basically Android is a spy device literally tracking your every move- I suspect Apple may well be similar judging from the names in Michaels example

Edited By Frances IoM on 28/01/2021 16:15:35

[Bill PhinnParticipant @billphinn90025]

Posted by Peter Greene on 27/01/2021 22:49:37:

Posted by duncan webster on 27/01/2021 16:19:14:

I've stopped using Arc Euro's website as it doesn't give the option of refusing cookies. I think that I'm supposed to opt in, which I never do

I've noticed many sites do give an option with two buttons: <Accept> or <Customise> cookies.

If you go to <Customise> all cookies are off except necessary cookies for local site navigation (fair enough). The implication is that this set-up is the default you would get if you took the original <Accept>.

(Sorry Michael)

What happens with the cookies if, instead of clicking on either accept or customize, you just close the window by clicking on the x at top right?

[Anonymous]

Posted by duncan webster on 27/01/2021 16:19:14:

I've stopped using Arc Euro's website as it doesn't give the option of refusing cookies. I think that I'm supposed to opt in, which I never do

I've noticed many sites do give an option with two buttons: <Accept> or <Customise> cookies.

If you go to <Customise> all cookies are off except necessary cookies for local site navigation (fair enough). The implication is that this set-up is the default you would get if you took the original <Accept>.

I don't believe it.

(Sorry Michael)