Search Results for 'arc euro'

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

I mean of course in the fullness of time I shall have a through hardened superalloy spindle running in precision ground and pre tensioned double angular roller bearings lubricated with the finest tungsten disuphide grease.

Until then its a mild steel spindle with some oil cups from ArcEuro oil cups. Tuftriding is interesting but I'm not sure how many places would do such a small job (and I wonder what the minimum price would be).

Also the advantage of a replacement is I can get those new fangled M14x1 threads so I can buy chucks without doing a Jenkins conversion for every accesory I buy new.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Peter Nichols on 15/08/2015 08:51:36:

I'm looking to buy a set very shortly and noticed these 2 :-

**LINK**

**LINK**

They look very similar to me but the first is a 52 piece set for £45, the second says it's a 58 piece for £37 ?

Anyone know if it's a misprint and they are the same ? Is the second one really better value or is it poorer quality ?

My set is red and bought from Arc some 13 years ago – it hasn't got quite as many studs and nuts, so maybe the RDG ones are like this and aren't 'fully loaded'?

Neil

[Gas_mantle.Participant @gas_mantle]

I'm looking to buy a set very shortly and noticed these 2 :-

**LINK**

**LINK**

They look very similar to me but the first is a 52 piece set for £45, the second says it's a 58 piece for £37 ?

Anyone know if it's a misprint and they are the same ? Is the second one really better value or is it poorer quality ?

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

That's the sort that came with my big clamping set, I use them with no problems – although they can be tricky to set up as they can take a lot of space and have 'big noses'. .

I've got the 12mm slot 58-piece set here: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Clamping-Sets

(Except in red!)

Neil

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Cost of HSS taps vary very widely. They come in 2 style, ground thread and cut thread. There are also variations in the grade of HSS used. They needn't be expensive, these for instance which in real terms are ok

**LINK**

In terms of ground and cut thread one thing I have noticed is that taps these days tend to measure slightly over size. I'd guess this is some sort of standard where as some time ago taps tended to measure exactly on size. Same sort of idea as a reamer – the size they produce is very slightly greater than their diameter.

Dies come with the same variation except at very small sizes I doubt if ground thread can be found. BA for instance are usually all cut thread. The other difference is button and split dies. Personally I will only buy split as they can be adjusted a little if the usual die stocks are modified.

The problem with carbon steel taps and dies is that often especially in sets they aren't made very well. In the past there have been high quality ones available. There probably still are from true industrial suppliers but they will probably cost more than cheap HSS.

Well made carbon steel taps and dies are fine on most materials but can be a problem on materials like stainless steel. The other aspect is how often they are used as they will wear out more quickly than HSS. The harder the material the faster they will wear out.

I recently bought a cheap used set of M8x1.25mm left hand thread taps and a die in carbon steel. Made by these people

**LINK**

The fact that they are carbon steel doesn't bother me as they wont be used very often. They are dead sharp and accurately sized by modern standards at 8.05mm dia. For odd jobs I would still buy carbon steel if the price is right and the quality adequate. Breakages of both types really depends on how they are hardened. The usual reason for breakages in very small sizes is twisted holes down to poorly sharpened drills / drilling machine spindle not being square to the work / the tap being put in at the wrong angle and aspects like that.

Cheap carbon steel full sets ? I needed to cut a few UNF sizes some time ago and thought why not so bought a set. The holders were pretty useless and worse still the dies especially wouldn't really cut. The taps could with a lot of force. I didn't go for the cheapest of the cheapest either. These days I would just buy the ones I needed rather than doing the same thing again. Although I work in imperial the majority of my taps and dies are metric. If I was following some design that wanted say 1/4in BSF I would simply replace it with M6 if I needed to. BA can be replaced easily. I also have most of the usual sizes of ME especially in 40TPI. ME is unique and can't really easily be replaced with standard metric taps and dies.

Thought I had better add why the set was so bad. I suspect that they had never been near a grinder even for final sharpening along the flutes. Something to watch out for when buying.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 11/08/2015 10:35:25

[John A Cole 1Participant @johnacole1]

Thanks everyone. I bought it from ArcEuroTrade and yes, I used the review article on their site as a guide. Unfortunately, some of the review part numbers do not match the current lathe guide, which is also not clear. It does help with quite a bit but as usual, most of it you have to learn by just getting stuck in. The guide does explain some adjustments but not all, hence my question!

thanks for the Grizzly link as their PDF guide is far better than what comes with the actual lathe. And it's in real English language with no 'lost in translation' either……

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

Have you had a look at the article on the ArcEuroTrade website which covers setting up the CO lathe?

Here – **LINK**

Which should answer your question

Edited By Robbo on 09/08/2015 15:45:21

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

I may be totally confused but I think that the OP is looking for a 3MT arbour with a male 1/2" x 20 unf thread on the big end and a female drawbar thread (any size) on the taper end.

ARCeuro blank end arbours are pretty tough but I managed to make an arbour for gear cutters out of one. My guess is that the big end could be softened by heating to red with a gas torch and allowing it to cool naturally. Threading the end would then be a bit easier.  Try it with the blank end arbour you've already had a go at.

HTH

Rod

Edit: cross posting:  cutting off the tang and heating the taper end will tend to soften , not harden

Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 03/08/2015 20:45:15

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Arc euro trade sell screw in tangs for arbors or you could use a length of studding. Try a carbide tipped tool. The arbor is probably case hardened.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 03/08/2015 19:52:49

[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

Chucks etc are available for your lathe, you may need an adapter plate but I imagine you'll find one that just bolts on, same with a faceplate. You will probably find they are held on the spindle by 3 or 4 bolts. Once you know the bolt pattern you can order accessories to fit.

This sort of thing…
**LINK**

[Nitai LeviParticipant @nitailevi73768]

Thanks

pgk pgk, I've tried with and without shoes… I think it happened both times…

martin perman, yes, but being flat, it only touches the plastic of the wall plug since it's not getting into the hole itself. Is that how it's supposed to work? I know some wall sockets have metal bits sticking out for the earth.
If the shock was the 240V from the wall wouldn't it be obvious and much stronger?

The wall socket looks like this:

If I search for European socket they mostly look like this:

Edited By Nitai Levi on 02/08/2015 08:22:16

Edited By Nitai Levi on 02/08/2015 08:23:05

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

How about this method that I have read on the internet which does not use a face plate but the flywheel must be small enough to be held fully within the jaws of the lathe chuck :

1. Hold flywheel ( 3.5 or 4 inch) in the lathe chuck by the outer rim ( They recommend a 4 jaw chuck but I am not sure why ?)

2. face the hub and the rim on one side.

3. Spot drill with 6mm spot drill bit

4. ream out to correct size. (I have been thinking of using 6mm axles instead of 1/4 inch)

5. take flywheel out of chuck and fit mandrel

5. place mandrel in lathe and face the other side

6. finish by facing the main outer surface of the flywheel

I have been looking at mandrels from Arceuro : straight shank expanding mandrels (5.5mm to 7mm)

**LINK**

[Phil WhitleyParticipant @philwhitley94135]

There is some doubt about who invented the Jet engine, as Whittles first patent of 1930 was published and circulated via the new patents publications all over Europe, and it is also known that University of Gottingen, where Von Ohain had studied and was then a research assistant, recieved a copy of this publication. If von Ohain was working on jet propulsion at the time, it is a little far fetched to suggest that he would not have read it! Von Ohains patent came out in 1936, and was internally different to Whittles, but then it would have to be or it would not be able to get a patent!

Phil

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Ask ArcEuroTrade. The will probably be able to point you in the right direction.

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

…or this…

**LINK**

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I just tried to explain why this happens in general terms Jason and to explain why metric coarse is ok when that is used as in real terms it's close to BA – an instrumentation thread unless you are Colin Chapman and decide to use it to attach the rather long massive radius arms on the rear wheels of a Lotus Europa. That really caused me some grief once,

My immediate thought once metric became more popular was where are the metric model engineering threads ? As far as I am aware this is purely a UK invention, a very convenient one so looked for all of those 0.5mm pitch taps and dies or such like that would be needed. Then tried brass. No luck. I expected a search like this to bring something suitable up

**LINK**

Remove the set from the search and some metric fine will be found.

Perhaps the answer to the John engine for some one who had the cutters available would be to replace 5mm with 3/16 ME 40 and M8 with 5/16 same, 32tpi or brass. They are so close on diameter it makes me wonder if it's a metricated imperial design. The 3/16 is .010 low on diameter though.

Rule Britannia – seems to be the only country that took model engineering seriously.

John

—

 

Edited By John W1 on 27/07/2015 20:38:53

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

John : that mini metric die set from Arc Euro is not metric fine though. The M2 tap is listed as M2 X 0.4 on ebay which is coarse scale. Isn't metric fine M2 X 0.2 ? I almost bought that set tonight before I realised.

Arc Euro do have nice serial taps in metric fine. I think that is the way to go.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Taps/Serial-Taps—Metric-BSW-BSF

Edited By Brian John on 27/07/2015 17:44:54

Edited By Brian John on 27/07/2015 17:49:48

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

The tap and die co Jason linked to sell decent kit and the finer taps at the small end in that set look like they come as plug and taper which can be very handy and split dies as well. These can be adjusted a touch but the die holders usually have to be modified. One let down on the screwfix kit is the tap and die holders but they are usable. Jason is correct on sizes used on many things not just steam engines but my feeling were that I just wanted to be able use larger sizes if needed without having to go out and buy which would cost more in the long run.

I would say that Tracey Tools are pretty cheap even for the industrial items that they sell, sometimes have to ask for those. They sold me the 2 metric left hand spit HSS dies I needed to go with my taps. £20 each. It's possible to pay rather a lot more if some one looks in the wrong place.

RScomponents also have a number of tap and die sets even high end brands if some one wants to pay that sort of money out.

Actually there is nothing wrong with good quality carbon steel taps and dies providing they aren't used heavily and very often and on more difficult materials such as stainless. Finding a decent set is tricky though.

Personally if I was starting again I would buy a boxed set. It's nice to pick up the box and choose which one is wanted rather than tipping the lot out of a bag etc. At times it has taken me longer to find the tap or die than actually make use of it.

If some one really is on a budget I would suggest Arceuro. They too have sets

**LINK**

I have bought numerous tools of them over rather a long time now and so far I have been pleased with the items. The other budget seller I have used is Harry??? on ebay. The ??? is some number. I got fed up of needing specific reamers at times. His sets for what they cost seem pretty good to me. Again in a box and handy that way for the same reason.

John

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[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

It's not recomended to hold mills in the chuck, I've just bought a 6mm MT collet to hold mine. I have previously been experimenting with a home made mill in a chuck but the cutter can vibrate loose and chew into the work.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/Morse-Taper-Collets

Edited By john carruthers on 25/07/2015 08:20:11

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

My D6 cup wheel arrived from Arceuro today. There are no markings on it but it's considerably finer than the other one I mentioned so I suspect but can't guarantee that the D6 is the diamond size.

Next thing is a motor to drive it with. I happened on a new Fracmo 2,800 rpm 250w out off ebay at a reasonable cost. I've come to the conclusion that the cheap grinders come with too much built in wobble to make a conversion worth while.

John

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[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Ah you mean these ?

**LINK**

??

[GoCreateParticipant @gocreate]

Hi Nitai

I bought one if these grinders a few years back and personally would not recommend it. In my experience it would not be suitable for grinding up lathe tools from 6mm or 8mm HSS tool bits other than sharpening an existing profile. It will cope OK with 3mm or 4mm tool bits and sharpening drills up to about 6mm.

For it's size it is quite powerful, it has a variable speed control which to me seems of no benefit on a grinder. I was disappointed with mine, during a longish grinding session mine stopped working, I resume there is a fault on the speed control board, I have been meaning to see if I can re-wire it to bypass this board but till now it remains under the bench.

ARC sell some 40mm diamond coated discs, maybe these combined with a small motor could make a neat little grinder but for 6 – 8 mm tool bits I would recommend a 6" grinder as others have and find a way store it away when not in use.

Nigel

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Or a 5C to ER32 adaptor.

**LINK**

Third up from bottom.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

5C would be fine with 4 facet method for the exact size drills, but for other sizes not. So using an ER style collet system would give you a greater range. Depending on what size 5c collets you have one approach would be to use an ER collet parallel mandrel in a 5c collet, putting the drills in the appropriate size ER collet. See for example

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Milling-Collet-Chucks-Straight-Shank

 

.

 

Edit for clickable link.

Edited By John Stevenson on 19/07/2015 12:58:45

[murrmacParticipant @murrmac]

Posted by JasonB on 14/07/2015 20:49:30:

M20 seems very large, I have screw chucks for my woodturning lathe and a 3/8" one will hold 6" work easily.

Get a blank end arbor from ARC which is threaded fror a drawbar, turn off the end then drill and tap M10. Buy a M10 dowel screw and screw that into the threaded hole. 7mm pilot hole in your timber and screw it onto the woodscrew end.

Problem solved, thanks Jason. I see that ARC sell a MT3 arbor with a 40mm dia end , which will be ideal for threading to 1 1/2" BSW, same as is on the Union Graduate lathe (to which I have access but which I don't own) .

I have already bought a 1 1/2" tap from Tracy Tools for threading the mandrels for the larger cones which I shall be spinning on that lathe, so all I need to do now is find an engineer who can turn a BSW 6TPI thread on the 40mm end.

I don't know if it's good forum etiquette to invite anybody who wants to take the job on to message me privately?

If that is transgressing the rules, than I apologise.