Search Results for 'arc euro'

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

M20 seems very large, I have screw chucks for my woodturning lathe and a 3/8" one will hold 6" work easily.

Get a blank end arbor from ARC which is threaded fror a drawbar, turn off the end then drill and tap M10. Buy a M10 dowel screw and screw that into the threaded hole. 7mm pilot hole in your timber and screw it onto the woodscrew end.

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello all,

Does anyone know if I can make a hook like the one in the picture with the Universal bender in **arceurotrade** ?

Diameters are 10mm and 25mm.
Material stainless steel 3mm.
 

Thanks in advance
Dias Costa

 

Edited By dcosta on 11/07/2015 23:17:27

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

Brian, I don't know where you are located but ArcEurotrade show the Sieg CO as in stock today. Their ad is on the right.

[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

Made a start on a replacement gearbox axle for the wheelchair. The original is nylon and it keeps shearing off so I started one in brass. Cutting an 0.8mm thread when my shiny new sc3 lathe half nut started 'skipping' so it was cutting grooves not a thread, most annoying.
I got on the Arceurotrade who promptly called me back could not have been more helpful.
We thought of a few work arounds, but in the end agreed a pair of half nuts instead of the single nut was the way to go.
The necessary parts are in the post, gratis, so the chair may get a permanent fix.

[PeteParticipant @pete41194]

Nitia,

I can fully understand your frustration of having to rework what should have been correct right from the factory. With the almost universal use of CNC on production machine tools even in China, or at least the bare minimum of today's cheap Chinese built, but still fairly high accuracy DRO's on any manual machine's that might possibly still be used in a production environment, plus the standard world wide use of jigs and fixtures to speed up production. It is more than inexcusable today that even those cheap machine tools are still being made this inaccurate. Even a 5 second check with an in house shop built gauge would show when an adjustment or new tool tip is required. I honestly can't logically figure out how they can still make any of the cheap machine's that inaccurate today. With the volume there producing, then just add $5 to the price and start checking and using some gauges to show when and where there's a problem developing long before we start seeing what we have been as the end users.

But your certainly not alone with having problems with Seig machines. I spent over $4000 on a Sieg C6, there X2 mini mill, and a lot of accessories. My tailstock pointed uphill over .009" in 2" . Add on a drill chuck, plus the length of a standard drill, and that drill tip was about .025" high or higher with the tailstocks barrel extended. It was impossible to use any center drill because the drill tip was so high the tips would instantly get ripped off as soon as they touched a spinning work piece. Reaming from the tailstock was obviously not going to happen without a very tapered but reamed hole. The additional tee slotted milling table was severely warped enough to easily see it visually. And the cross slide's surface was incorrectly ground over .003" in both directions. So it was impossible to do any accurate milling or between centers boring with the work bolted to the cross slide the way the machine was originally machined, ground and built. So to again use some logic, Seig either has very poorly trained and incompetent employee's, or there management could care less about there customers. I certainly won't ever buy another Seig machine no matter how much they improve there quality control in the future. My comments here may or may not affect company's such as Arc Euro who I do think is a very good company, and who will stand behind what there selling. But I didn't buy from them, and I can only comment on what my personal experience has been with Seig machines.

And I'm certainly not expecting Schaublin quality or accuracy at that much cheaper price. I am expecting the basic machine alignment's to be at least much more correct than what I found so the machine was usable without having to correct the factory errors. You could hardly do worse even on purpose. But it was that machine that forced me into educating myself about what's really involved with the correct yet basic lathe alignments. I do think you don't see all that many complaints on these forums about those alignments because most think what they've bought has to be correct, so most probably won't check like you have.

Pete

[Mark Lawson 1Participant @marklawson1]

Thanks for the information Keten, initially I had noticed that the chuck had a notchy feeling which was becoming worse until the motor started what I would describe in mechanical terms as misfiring I don’t know the electrical term, my first thought were knackered bearings and brushes these were replaced least ways I bought some several months ago but haven’t had the time to look at the lathe, I have now striped and rebuilt the lathe and it would appear that the brushes use about 20-25% before they lose contact and the motor starts misfiring once the drive belt was removed I tested the chuck bearings and all seemed fine the notchy feeling was coming from the motor not the chuck so as I had the bearings (ArcEuro 7206B-2RS Spindle Angular Contact Bearings) I replaced them as well as the brushes also a liberal application of nice grease as opposed to the sticky mess Sieg use reassembled everything and it works a treat once again and the notchy feeling has gone from the motor on the plus side the motor has gone from spinning at 3000rpm to 3400rpm, the increased performance I can only put down to better quality bearings and better grease, so now I can start on my 1/6 scale Panther tank :O)

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

It's interesting to read the Arceuro set up instructions. Peatol throw in another step but they do make the parts very precisely. When the slides are all off and cleaned up mix kitchen cream and a light oil, 3in1 is ok, kitchen cream – CIF in the uk. The mix makes a very fine lapping paste. Coat the part that is to be lapped in and push back and forth by hand. The same thing can be done with slides that have gib strips, just adjust and tighten so that they can be move fairly easily by hand lead screws out. Tighten a touch as the paste distributes evenly and again later etc.. Done with a bit of care it can give very smooth slides but it wont cure even minor errors. When happy, clean it all off and lubricate as usual. Slideway oil is very good and doesn't need putting on that often, only a few drops are needed or rub it liberally all over the running surfaces as some do. Personally I always set gibs so that there is very slight drag when pushed by hand. It's easy to set them too tight if it's done via the lead screws and just wears the nuts out more quickly.

John

–

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I always mount my lathes on jacks / levelling screws. Just needs bolts of a suitable length. First thing to do is bolt these to what ever the lathe is being mounted on, threads pointing up. Then fit nuts A followed by a penny washer, then put the lathe in place and further nuts B and washers. A further lock nut can be added under A if required.

Nut A can be used to level the lathe and support it evenly. The lock nut if fitted can be used to lock it in place. Nut B is then used to hold the lathe down.

People can also make posh ones. Drill and tap the lathe mounting points, make a "flat mushroom" shaped bush to screw into the mounting points on the lathe. These are then used to level the lathe and fixing bolts pass through them.

People can also add rubber to this sort of set up. Washers effectively or maybe some suitable car parts – rubber blocks with threaded sections sticking out of each end. Personally i don't hold lathes down tightly at all. Finger tight on the final fixing nuts does for me. Not convinced that resilient mounting adds anything useful either.

The main reason lathes are rigidly mounted on something else that is also very rigid is to allow final setting up. This is done by warping the bed with the fixing screws. The technique really dates back to when lathe cabinets where made of cast iron and really were rigid. I feel it's a dubious thing to do these days as once set up the cabinets will settle over time and the bed will go back to more or less where it was. The reason it was done like this is that it's rather difficult to adjust the tailstock offset by extremely small amounts. Warping the end of the bed is exactly the same as adjusting tailstock offsets. A DTI can help make fine adjustments to all sorts of things.

Sounds to me that the OP will persist in doing what they have read on the web what ever any one else says. Often the case. Must tell lathe manufacturers that they don't need their test bars and also that users don't need to check via actually turning – many do as fully checking with a DTI has it's problems.

I will clear one thing up though. Rocking the bar while a 3 jaw is closing on it is more likely to make problems worse. Initially if some one hasn't done much of this position a jaw central at the top. As the jaws are closing on the work rotate it by hand, doesn't need much. With a bit of practice this ensures that the chuck doesn't clamp down firmly on the high spots it happens to be in contact with because the work isn't on it's axis. Large work might need the ends tapping true before the chuck is firmly tightened but that usually happens when the work is too heavy to support easily.

Also as some one has mentioned and going a bit further in many cases blue has to be used so thinly that it can hardly be seen.

If some one wants to lap something flat and hasn't something truly flat around the cheapest source is probably a piece of thick float glass placed on a decently flat surface. Rather than putting wet and dry on it, a water proof paper backed abrasive sheet, 3M make lapping and finishing sheets that are adhesively backed. It can be found on ebay. A piece larger than the work is needed so that it can be moved around without the work passing over the edge. Best use plenty of light oil to prevent the abrasive clogging up which ever it is.

If some one isn't used to using a scraper and wants to mate 2 parts diamond lapping sticks are probably a better answer. Arceuro sell some decent ones but they will work a lot more quickly with oil or better still honing oil on them, which unfortunately I think they have stopped selling. The problem with mating 2 parts is knowing which one is out. The chances of finishing up with flat surfaces are slim. A bit of lapping on a flat surface will sort out just where the errors are. Or if 3 surfaces are all scraped and checked against each other it's possible to work out where the errors are – eventually.

Leaves me wondering if these parts have been ground?

John

–

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Hopper,

With mini-lathes there is considerable debate about the benefits of rigid mounting. The best solution I have come across is rigidly fixing the headstock to a solid bench while allowing the tailstock to 'float' with resilient mountings.

In all honesty, I have still to bother putting fixing bolts through the holes under my lathe

Nitai,

The flex you notice may mean that headstock bearings are slightly loose, Make sure they are properly adjusted as if the spindle droops under the weight of the chuck the tailstock will appear higher than it really is.

(see HERE for guidance for setting taper bearings).

Hopper concludes with an excellent point – I suggest you settle on a sensible 'target' of about 0.002"/0.05mm high and aim for that. If you overshoot a little you won't end up with a tailstock that is too low and the attendant bother.

Wet and dry in the UK has become a generic term fro waterproof backed slicon carbide papers which are generally to a much closer tolerance than sandpaper.

Neil

[Mark Lawson 1Participant @marklawson1]

Sieg C3 Lather motor

I have a problem with the motor on my sieg C3 late which I believe requires replacement I have tried ArcEuro and they are out of stock the motor is a 350w Brushed DC motor type95D-1-600rpm anyone know where I may be able to obtain one

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

You could make a back plate for the chuck but I suspect you will have fun adding the thread for the chuck to it. They are usually rather coarse and I'd guess your lathe doesn't go below 100 rpm. Power might be a problem too but very very fine cuts at the thread angle usually help with that. You will have the same problem with a morse adapter. It's also best to do this sort of job with a chaser but it can be done with an ordinary pointed tool providing you calculate how much undersized the od needs to be. Even metric threads have a rad on the crests in practice.

The sort of chuck mounting the lathe has usually has some sort of register. Hopefully a plain diameter. It's best to turn up a sort of plug gauge that is exactly the same with a short section say 0.02 to 0.03mm under sized on the end. You can then machine the recess for the plate and reduce the size of the cut to very low levels when this part just goes in. Say you take 0.005mm cuts then that will be the fit when it goes in. Then as a check remove the chuck with the plate in and check it fits.

You could mark the position for the studs using engineers blue. Normally that has to be used so thin that it can hardly be seen but in this case you could smear a thin layer on the area on the lathe's plate and press the chuck plate against it. Maybe having to rotate it a little each way to get it to take and leave a mark . Then carefully mark the centre of where the studs have to go. There is usually some clearance on the studs so this wont be as bad as you might think but will need care.

There is a way that you could avoid turning the thread for the chuck. Mount the plate and turn the register. Use the same very light cuts technique to get a good fit. 4 jaws are usually mostly solid metal and there will be a rim around the register. Simply drill through the back plate into the chuck at a thread core size and use high tensile screws to hold it to the plate. Countersunk will probably be best. Smallest you could get away with is say 3 or 4 M4's. Fully fit one before drilling the others. The 1st one will make sure things stay in place when you do the others.

I have used the blue idea for spotting holes like this from a chuck but didn't have any blue so used wet paint. It can be done. Biggest problem was a drill running off a bit but in this case it didn't matter. I just had to make the hole in the plate a bit bigger.

You might be able to find something that already fits the lathe – say a budget collet holder, turn that off and then fit the chuck adding thickness if needed. Or maybe a back plate – ArcEuro stock several sizes, maybe Chester do too. I assume that the ones with thread still have holes positioned to fit studs correctly. The nice thing about studs is that the chuck doesn't suddenly spin off when threads are being cut and the lathe has to be reversed. It happens.

Been out and also have eaten lunch since starting this so some one else might have posted similar suggestions.

John

–

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Something along the lines of this lathe ball turner but a lot larger box or girder section frame with the router inplace of the cutting tool, have the work pivot on a turntable as it wil take less support than a horizontal spindle with the frame at right angles to the axis

I'll stick with making small ones

 

Edited By JasonB on 25/06/2015 15:21:56

[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

                                                                                                                                                                       

                                                 

 

 

 

At last, the lathe fairy came in the night.
An SC3 from Arceuro.

Spent the morning degreasing and fettling.

Edited By john carruthers on 25/06/2015 14:29:50

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Ian,

I have read this thread with interest, and; although your "Mission" is amirable, I don't think there is much hope of a definitive answer to the question.

The biggest problem [and this relates to your observation regarding the relentless push for lower prices] is that there are batch-to-batch differences between supposedly similar components. The "Manufacturers" [sic] subcontract most of the work, and the levels of supply-chain management are inadequate.

When I worked in the 'Aerospace' industry, we had full traceability [all the way back to the mine where the ore was found] … but this inevitably comes at a price.

The use of ISO9001 accredited supply chains should help you … but I fear that there is a lot of 'lip-service' being paid to the admirable principles of that system.

Please; If you do find a supplier of consistently good tooling, at affordable prices, tell the rest of us!

MichaelG.

.

P.S. … One closing thought: Of the many 'Model Engineering' suppliers who could contribute to this forum, only ArcEuroTrade and CuP seem to do so with any enthusiasm.

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I feel that suppliers play an important part on cheaper stuff. If ARC is Arceuro 3 strikes and you are out doesn't surprise me as I have had good experiences with all items I have bought off them. I do get a bit annoyed when they stop selling certain things at times but it could be that I am the only person who wants to use them. I wouldn't be inclined to say the same about one large scale seller on Ebay.

I come from an insanely precise toolroom background and can do work like that given a decent machine. I also have some machine tool design experience – unfortunately and that causes me to have a general feeling of disgust when I look at some machine tools as they are off to a bad start purely from a design point of view. Lathes are interesting. We get hobby, medium duty etc and my comments largely relate to the hobby end as there appears to be a big jump in standards in some cases – in the UK at least. I also come from a very high volume manufacturing background so am well aware of where the costs come from. Much of it is plant what ever the quality levels. A lot of the quality aspects come form how things are designed and made anyway. As far a lathes go at the "hobby" end the aim seems to be the highest number style spec in the shortest space so that more can be packed onto a ship for a given size of lathe. This is probably largely down to USA dealers but people over there do have more choice than we do so our importers are partly at fault anyway.

Cost can come into quality. I wanted to make a small x-y table for testing optics so bought a couple of baby lathe compound slides. I was gob smacked by the way the lead screw was located. Ok cheaper but too cheap to serve it's purpose in my view even on a lathe. I feel there is too much of this sort of thing going on so it's little wonder that many people with a background in this area complain. I also feel that this sort of thing has increased and am inclined to blame the USA for it, looking for penny savings, well maybe a couple of quid in this case. Also for making the spec look better as far as the numbers go and also probably keeping weights down a touch – I wonder how much extra weight would be added if the cross slide was long enough to make full use of the swing of the lathe for instance. It needs to go a further than the swing suggests.

Centre distances have grown. One favoured way seems to be to chop of the nose on the tailstock and even make it a bit shorter – worth 2in on a medium sized lathe. A morse extension is then sometimes needed to turn up to a centre. More sources of inaccuracy. Better still make the spindle and head stock shorter. Sounds fine but say there is a not unreasonable 0.001in error in bearing placement. That much taper will appear over the same distance on the work. This is why real lathes even Chinese ones have longer heads. Bearing accuracy also comes into this and true we can't expect super precision bearings at this price but hang on they aren't heat treated. The Chinese real lathes also come with bearing alignment adjustments so maybe they don't use super precision either. There is a problem in the bearing area as lathes get bigger. More sophisticated arrangements have to be used but that needn't apply to say a 5in centre height lathe and most definitely not on smaller ones. Or even bigger ones really but there will come a point when performance wont be as I would expect. On the other hand design can help with that – they are called disc springs as used in Hobbymats and a few others at times. Dirt cheap and do their job if used correctly.

To be honest going on the only Chinese lathe I have had and certain other things I get the impression that they have been made badly on purpose or by some one in a shed. Taps interest me too. These days they always seem to be slightly over sized. This may be down to standards or could it be that the real things are run off and at some point when tooling needs resetting the rough stuff is made. Odd really as modern high volume machines often take out tool wear and also slide wear via software and sensors. There has been indications in the past that identical machines from different retailers vary. I've also read complaints some where in the past about 0.100 != 2.5mm. Think that may have been from the USA. Could be down to the size of the over all EU.

I too do some woodworking. I have Ryobi radial arm saw, dewalt band saw, a planer, a newtool bench drill, a few routers and several other powered things. I've owned most of these for over 20 years. Accuracy – I can do work with many of them that can stand measurement with a digital calliper if I need Over the last 5 or so years I have bought other thing such as a router table which is a complete load of crap. Purely bad by design in this case nothing what so ever to do with manufacturing costs. It was even designed to hold the wrong router in the range. One range that stood out for quality at very low cost was B&Q PowerPro. Some trade people used them as well with a reduced guarantee. It can be done.

John

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[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

'i'd rather not wait until the Autumn shows.' Could be a bad choice to make.

I've done a lot of comparing at shows and while you cant check runout if they didn't bring the machine you want.If they do, you can and it's all under one roof.

You can see the difference in finish quality, some have obvious machining errors and come in a box badly made of terrible wood. Then you look at something with Vertex or HBM written on it and you realise why they cost a few pounds more. The difference is night and day.

I've bought stuff from Rotagrip thats cheap Chinese and good, also RDG.

i've not used Arceuro, but they seem to care about the quality of their stock against it's cost.

i have a Nearok driil from the 80's that clatters like crazy as the spline is very poor indeed. You look at back issues of ME and theres usually someone on the letters page complaining of poor quality far east kit.

So ti's not a new issue either.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Hello Bill,

My Dad's ancestors all come from the area around Bicester and Brackley. I'm not aware of any suppliers in the area, and you are pretty far from all the obvious candidates (by English standards if not Australian ones). Axminster are in High Wycombe and Basingstoke, and further afield there's Warco in Chiddingfold, Surrey and Arc Euro in Syston near Leicester. If you can haul all the way to Hawarden, Cheshire Chester are having their open week.

Neil

[Derek999Participant @derek999]

Hello all.

I used washing up liquid for years until recently when i found out it was responsible for an allergic skin reaction where the tips of my fingers will split open right down to the underlying flesh. Obviously both painful and a prime situation for further infection etc.

It has turned out to be due to the 'preservatives' added to such products as washing up liquid, shampoo, soaps and hand creams, plus very many cosmetic products from even the biggest, most well known brands. Why such products could need preservatives escapes me totally, but these preservatives, called MI and MIT, are the subject of many warnings from British and European skin specialist bodies, with the result that the cosmetic industry is actively banning them, although only on what they called washed off products!

British detergent manufacturers seem to be ignoring the research body warnings, by adding both products to very many items.

Google "MI preservatives" to read the full details. It is unpleasant to say the least

Once sensitized by these products full skin recovery can only be obtained after months of non-exposure to the products containing the additives, and I can tell you that it is difficult to find washing up liquid without them. At present I can only use one type (from Lidl!) without spending around £6 for a fully organic product which hardly works at all as a washing up liquid!

I would seriously advise checking hand cleaners carefully before buying, as this allergy has my life hell for some years now, and even worse in cold weather as I also suffer from Reynaulds syndrome.

Best regards

Derek

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

Ed
is the QCTP fitted to a WM180 ? – if so any problems (it looks rather like the ArcEuro supplied Piston) – even as an absolute beginner on the lathe the 4way post is already my least favourite item

Edited By Frances IoM on 20/06/2015 22:53:35

[maurice bennieParticipant @mauricebennie99556]

Hi Mike arceuro has MT3 blank end arbors 1.25" 1.5"" each with3/8" thread 40mm with12mm thread .

I have the metric one and have made a hollow draw bar with 12mm bolts each end ,drilled 8mm,and hexagon heads turned down to fit in tube,(leave shoulder to line bolt up ) .Bore conical hole in bolt head so thin tube will find easy way through.. You will have to make all to fit in the spindle before soldering together.

Hope this makes sence Maurice

[Mike Davies 2Participant @mikedavies2]

Hi Brian,

They are here on Arc's site : **LINK**

Sleeves would be no use for what I want.

Mike

[Mike Davies 2Participant @mikedavies2]

Hi,

I'm going to build a lathe backstop for my Boxford and want to use a shop-bought MT3 soft end mandrel for the nose piece.

I've found apparently suitable types at Arc Eurotrade but need to know whether they're just surface hardened on the taper, or whether that part is hardened all the way through ? I will need to bore right through the mandrel to take the stop rod and also thread the end for a drawbar so if they are hardened through the body that's a no go for my application.

Anyone drilled through one of Arc's MT soft end mandrels and know the answer ?

Thanks,

Mike

[Mark EisenParticipant @markeisen61287]

Chris I did it as in your photo

I am ordering some sets of taps from Ausee,, I believe they are the same as you get from Arceuro Trade.

Had another look this morning at the thread, very shallow, I will see how it goes, I can always cut it off and start again.

This is the first time I used a mill so all a learning experience.

What is metal working oil, Google is giving me conflicting views.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Mark,

You could try 4.4mm or even a 4.5mm drill. I would only use a 4.2mm tapping drill for materials that are easy to cut. Does the tapped part have to be 12.5mm deep? Could you drill the hole 5mm for part of the bar?
When tapping difficult materials I use serial taps, ARC sell them.

In Tubal Cain's book: Drills, Taps and Dies (Workshop Practice Series #12) you will find tables of tapping drill sizes for different thread engagement.

Thor

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Hi Kevin,

Your lathe appears to be this one LINK and I believe it has a 100mm (4" ) centre height. It looks like Warco offer a couple of QCTPs for that centre height LINK

The centre height on my lathe (WM180) is 90mm and I have added a QCTP from Arc Eurotrade, the model 250-100 which required some slight modification.  LINK

If you take the measurements from your lathe it should be easy enough to work out which one of those I linked to would fit. If still unsure, as John says have a chat with Warco, or any supplier, I'm sure they'll get you sorted.

Ed.

 

Edited By Ed Duffner on 12/06/2015 21:43:06

Edited By Ed Duffner on 12/06/2015 21:43:18

Edited By Ed Duffner on 12/06/2015 21:44:58