Search Results for 'arc euro'

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If you are not fussed by it being a few microns thicker then an 80mm x 32Tx0.8 whould do the trick with a nice big gullet that won't clog with swarf or a 3" x 28T x 1/32"

Edited By JasonB on 07/10/2019 13:40:57

[John RutzenParticipant @johnrutzen76569]

Hi I bought the ball race nut, the spanner and an imperial set of collets from Arc Euro, all for £50 including the post. I got them the next day and am very pleased with them. It's much easier to tighten and loosen the nut now. So I hope that solves the problem.

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

I'd be wary of getting a wedge-type QCTP that is too big for your equipment. My lathe has slightly larger capacity than the OP's, but I deliberately went for a size 000 wedgie from Arc. Having previously had a four-way (supplied with the lathe) and then a Dickson type, I am glad I eventually settled on the wedge-type. I use a mixture of HSS and insert tipped tooling and have built up a selection of holders for my most-used tooling, though I have to admit, I've spread the cost over a fair period. To be honest, I don't think my lathe has sufficient power at speed to get the best from carbide inserts, but I persevere and generally manage to get acceptable results.

The Arc page for the size 000 states that it is suitable for a mini-lathe and a Myford, so will presumably fit Brian's lathe easily, albeit with a possible modification to the mounting stud. At the same time as I fitted the new toolpost, I incorporated the Arc-supplied needle roller thrust bearing modification, which I consider worthwhile.

Link to Arc

As has been said above, whatever suits you is best. Only you can decide how deep your pockets are, compared to the length of your arms.

John

[Graham StoppaniParticipant @grahamstoppani46499]

Posted by norman valentine on 03/10/2019 12:27:07:

The problem with the Dickson toolpots is that the toolholders are very expensive. The wedge type of toolpost has toolholders that are nearly half the price. Arceuro stock them.

I would recommend a look at the ArcEurotrade wedge type tool posts as well. I changed over from a Dixon type on my Myford ML7 to one of these. They also stock a range of sizes of this type of tool post.

Model 100 QCTP

[norman valentineParticipant @normanvalentine78682]

The problem with the Dickson toolpots is that the toolholders are very expensive. The wedge type of toolpost has toolholders that are nearly half the price. Arceuro stock them.

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Posted by Sandgrounder on 03/10/2019 11:17:51:

Thank you all for your very helpful advice which has resulted in me finding the problem, the collet does lock into the nut with a click however it doesn't withdraw the collet, but I found another chuck, a MT3 one, and this nut fits the MT2 one as well, this was assembled the same way and works, I've just tried both a couple of times more and the results the same, the MT2 nut must have a fault, it was just a cheap one but it will suffice now I have a nut that fits.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, the Arc Euro page is very good.

Thanks

John

John Ketan also sells Ball Bearing Nuts to replace your damaged plain one; as soon as I tried mine, I realised it was money well spent.

Bill

[SandgrounderParticipant @sandgrounder]

Thank you all for your very helpful advice which has resulted in me finding the problem, the collet does lock into the nut with a click however it doesn't withdraw the collet, but I found another chuck, a MT3 one, and this nut fits the MT2 one as well, this was assembled the same way and works, I've just tried both a couple of times more and the results the same, the MT2 nut must have a fault, it was just a cheap one but it will suffice now I have a nut that fits.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, the Arc Euro page is very good.

Thanks

John

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Look at this to see how the collet should be locked into the nut first.

Check the nut and collet as you may have damaged them

Edited By JasonB on 03/10/2019 10:55:34

[HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint]

I was in the same position a few months back. I went with Chester initially but they messed me about so I cancelled. I then decided to order from Amadeal as the price/spec was good. They seem like a good company to deal with. The order process was quick and smooth and they even let me choose the colour. 😊 The plastic cover did get cracked in transit but they replaced it no problems. I would recommend. I can also recommend Arc Euro, never had any problems ordering from them.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Andrew Steward on 02/10/2019 15:09:52:

Hi David,

Many thanks for the response, I obviously didn’t make my predicament clear.

I’m more concerned about the best value for money than I am about how much I spend. I just don’t understand what the additional cost is getting me. The Axminster just seems over priced for no real reason but am I wrong?

is the warco worth the extra £68 over the sieg and if so why?

Then finally, why would I want any of them when I can get a lathe of similar size for less money from amadeal?

Im told they are “all the same” from a book called “mini lathes”. But that doesn’t look to be the case.

Well, they are all based on the same design rather than identical. Motors are a fairly obvious difference, the tools and accessories you get with the lathe, and whether or not carriage costs and VAT are included or not need a careful look. Some lathes have plastic gears (quieter), others metal gears (maybe stronger). Generally the more powerful the motor the better, and brushless are more desirable than brushed motors. But I wouldn't die in a ditch over motors.

All these lathes are made down to a price – they most certainly aren't assembled carefully by master-craftmen! My perception is the results fall broadly into one of 3 camps. First come those sold by the kind of importer who puts care and effort into getting the best they can from makers. This means establishing effective communication with the factory, and possibly the purchase-volume muscle needed to get the best examples. Second is the importer who just takes standard product from the factory, these seem mostly acceptable but maybe have a higher rate of rough examples. Third is the kind of seller dealing in factory rejects, returns, items not meeting UK electrical standards, bankrupt stock and grey imports etc. What you get from category 3 ranges from bargain to rip-off.

Buying direct from China will get best value for money provided you get a reasonable one. But be aware buying direct is much riskier. Dealing with problems is likely to be difficult and you have little in the way of consumer protection if the seller misbehaves. Getting money back may require the faulty lathe to be returned at your cost – no joke if the supplier in China. Buying from a UK supplier is under the umbrella of UK Consumer Law, and most UK suppliers will 'do the decent thing' voluntarily. Money back or a replacement, but their covering problems puts the price up.

Axminister's costs seem to be highest because they offer an extended warranty. I don't know if Axminister machines are also more polished than their competitors. Warco & ArcEuroTrade both have good reputations. ArcEuro are good for spares. Chester have attracted a bit more criticism on the forum than others in the past. Amadeal are rarely mentioned one way or the other. There are a number of other UK suppliers with low profiles. Lack of complaints about these guys may be reassuring.

When comparing lathes for best value, tabulate side-by-side down exactly what you get and double-check the costs. For example Warco prices include VAT and Carriage, I think ArcEuro prices are carriage extra. Other seller's prices may not include VAT or carriage. If accessories are added, check if you want them, and how much they cost individually if you do.

Dave

[Andrew StewardParticipant @andrewsteward85018]

So I have read the "mini-lathe" book cover to cover and am looking to purchase my first miini lathe.

I actually purchased a second hand one but it didn't work and so gave it back and have decided new is the best policy.

The primary purpose is to progress my jewelry hobby (specifically rings).

There are a plethora of them on sale at different prices all with some subtle differences. The mini-lathe book tells me they are all made by chinese manufacturers and are all pretty much the same. I'm trying to keep the cost down but there is no point buying something that wont do what I need it to. As you will see from my options below, I am well and truly confused. Does anyone have any advice for me?

The axminster C2-300 at £638.95 seems expensive with a 250W motor.

The Warco super minit lathe, with its 100mm chuck, 450W brushless all metal design at £668 looks good but is pushing my budget that bit too far.

The Sieg SC2 for £600 with a 500W brushless motor seems like a very good option (from arc eurotrade) however I have also found the following:

**LINK**

It has a 600W motor, all metal gear, digital control, weighing in at an impressive 68Kg but at just £535… makes me wonder if the precision will be crap?

Then there is Amadeal with there lathe packages:

**LINK**

The lathe for which appearsa to be something you can buy from mltiple places on ebay for as little as £430 and reads as perfectly acceptable for my needs.

**LINK**

[Nigel McBurney 1Participant @nigelmcburney1]

Also suggest buying the larger 4 point spaner from Arc euro. When using er40collets to hold large Whitworth taps,I admit that I do use a length of tube to get them really tight,I am well into retirement and so not as strong as I once was and if I damage a collet ,so what they are cheap and the customer pays for his Whit nuts. When working on full size thick wall copper steam pipe,the er40 collets grip the soft pipe without damage and allow threads to be cut with a die.

[John RutzenParticipant @johnrutzen76569]

Thanks for the help. I did not know you could get ball bearing nuts so i am going to order one from Arc Euro trade.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

To get up to 32mm you need an ER40 collet chuck. ArcEuro have advice about ER32 chuck sizes for various mini-lathes here, and details of their ER40 chucks here. Depending on which mini-lathe you have, the 100mm ER40 might fit, otherwise you'll have to make a backplate.

Are collets essential? The alternative is to get slick with a 4-jaw and DTI. Not as convenient as collets, but they can be set very accurately.

Dave

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

**LINK**

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/catalogue/results.aspx?search=stevenson

MichaelG.

[Jim Dalton 1Participant @jimdalton1]

Hi all

I recently purchased a collet chuck and some collets from arc eurotrade. I now have a need for collets in the range of 20 to 30mm but the biggest from Arc is 20mm.

Does anybody know if 20mm is the limit with the collet chuck for the mini lathe, and of that isn't the case, where might I get some bigger collets?

Thanks

[Brian GParticipant @briang]

If you mean these, (Link) no problem at all. I wrapped the bar in masking tape first to stop the tape ripping then used a fine hacksaw.

BTW, if you ever want to go down that route, they work fine with TouchDRO.

Brian

EDIT:  Should have mentioned that unless you remove the read head there is no need to clean up the end, it is encased in the mounting bracket.

Edited By Brian G on 26/09/2019 15:31:11

[VicParticipant @vic]

Posted by Trevor Drabble on 14/09/2019 11:06:25:

Vic , Are the ones from Arceuro not suitable ?

Trevor.

Edited By Trevor Drabble on 14/09/2019 11:07:22

Not sure. I did buy a commercial one once but it was so wobbly I had to ream the hole and make new innards to make it usable.

I’ve now made a 10mm shaft version so all sorted.

I have in the past resorted to just using a pointed length of steel in the chuck but not being spring loaded is less convenient.

As for turning down a 1/2” model, I doubt there’s enough material on the ones I have. One in particular has a 10mm grub screw in the back.

[Mike DonnerstagParticipant @mikedonnerstag]

If any of you were to buy a machine vice for the Myford milling slide from ArcEuro (I have a 10% discount code), which one and what size would you buy?

Many thanks,

Mike

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

Much used question & the standard answer is buy 'quality' [Dormer, Guhring, Titex etc. etc] threading tools as & when you need them. Try Arc Eurotrade, Cutwel, Cromwell tools, RS to start with.

Tony

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

I am considering buying the SIEG SC4 lathe. Are there any owners here who could voice their opinions of this machine please?.

Hi All,

I'm not the original Geoff who posted the first message, (copied above), in this thread nearly six years ago.

It has been 4 years since the last post so could I revive the original question as I would imagine there are now more owners and I am giving serious consideration to buying one from ARC eurotrade.

I know Neil has one and also Andrew Whale, anyone else.

Unfortunately I live a long way from ARC's headquarters so calling there to view one is not an option just yet.

I live in WA3 north Warrington, any North West owners.

Geoff

[HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint]

I think the chester mill is the same as the X1 mill. If I'm correct arc euro do spares.

[Trevor Drabble 1Participant @trevordrabble1]

Vic , Are the ones from Arceuro not suitable ?

Trevor.

Edited By Trevor Drabble on 14/09/2019 11:07:22

[Shaun BelcherParticipant @shaunbelcher81617]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 13/09/2019 22:21:02:

Firstly Welcome!

Have not read through all the foregoing, so my comments may already have been covered.

The gears with missing teeth suggest that the machine has been misused (abused was my original word)

Lets hope that it is not to badly worn or damaged to be not worth restoring.

Don't worry about the Japanese chuck. Chucks to fit the 1 1/8 x 12 tpi thread are available from a variety of countries, certainly India and China. the important thing is not where it came from, but how well it and accurately it functions. Assuming that it is a 3 jaw if it holds work concentric within 0.005" it should not be too bad, unless it has been strained and the jaws are belmouthed. If this is the case, the solution is either to regrind, in situ, or to buy a chuck in better condition.

Replacement gears should be available from the RDG Tools who now own the Myford trade mark and supply spares. Home and Workshop Machinery of 144 Maidstone Road, Foots Cray, Sidcup, Kent, DA14 5HS U K may well have second hand gears, as well as other suppliers.

Don't waste money on buying a Myford oil gun. Scatter gun would be a better description; it oiled just about everything, including me, except the parts that I wanted oiled.

Buying a Reilang will be money well spent. They are good, and put the oil where you want it.

For oilers, take a look at the Arc EuroTrade website, for Oil Cups, (although these are Metric thread, not Imperial so may need to have adaptors made. Chicken and egg!) and Drip Feed Oilers which are 1/8 BSP.

There will be other sources to be found on the web, I am sure.

HTH

Howard

Hi howard

Im not too worried about the chuck, although its been suggested to me it might be too heavy for it and cause excessive wear on the spindle bearings.

From what I gather, the broken teeth are common to see on these as it appears many people try locking the chuck with the backgear engaged in order to remove it.

Not too worried about the backgear right now. Plenty of used ones on ebay from myford stuff.

Regarding oilers, the ones RDG and Myford sell look identical to the ones from china on ebay at a fraction of the price. Am considering getting a pair for the time being.

Is this the right Reilang oil can? Its all i can find but does not look like it has the right fitting for the oil nipples. https://www.ebay.com/c/524999975

Some of the oil nipples are damaged and will replace them, are grease nipples usable? It looks like thats all they are that myford sell.

As far as oil guns go, this seems to be more popular than myfords (swiss) one they sell, its made in germany.

Any ideas how good this type is? https://www.lathespares.co.uk/myford-oil-lubrication/oil-gun-myford-lathe-1

Other than that, im going to hopefully test everything out next week. My main concern is how worn the bed is and if any wear is observed on the spindle.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Firstly Welcome!

Have not read through all the foregoing, so my comments may already have been covered.

The gears with missing teeth suggest that the machine has been misused (abused was my original word)

Lets hope that it is not to badly worn or damaged to be not worth restoring.

Don't worry about the Japanese chuck. Chucks to fit the 1 1/8 x 12 tpi thread are available from a variety of countries, certainly India and China. the important thing is not where it came from, but how well it and accurately it functions. Assuming that it is a 3 jaw if it holds work concentric within 0.005" it should not be too bad, unless it has been strained and the jaws are belmouthed. If this is the case, the solution is either to regrind, in situ, or to buy a chuck in better condition.

Replacement gears should be available from the RDG Tools who now own the Myford trade mark and supply spares. Home and Workshop Machinery of 144 Maidstone Road, Foots Cray, Sidcup, Kent, DA14 5HS U K may well have second hand gears, as well as other suppliers.

Don't waste money on buying a Myford oil gun. Scatter gun would be a better description; it oiled just about everything, including me, except the parts that I wanted oiled.

Buying a Reilang will be money well spent. They are good, and put the oil where you want it.

For oilers, take a look at the Arc EuroTrade website, for Oil Cups, (although these are Metric thread, not Imperial so may need to have adaptors made. Chicken and egg!) and Drip Feed Oilers which are 1/8 BSP.

There will be other sources to be found on the web, I am sure.

HTH

Howard