Search Results for 'arc euro'

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

In my experience, Arc Eurotrade stock good versions of the ubiquitous Sieg machine tools and provide excellent customer service.

**LINK**

How relevant their "only sold for hobby use" statement is in this context I don't know. The biggest machine is the SC4, you could buy several of these for the price of one new Myford, if you bought 2 Myford Connoisseurs you could have bought a roomful! You might consider getting the Boxfords you have professionally overhauled instead.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Steven Corston on 02/05/2023 23:31:30:

5C collets may, might, could be more accurate …

I think any differences in accuracy will be down to how well the collets are made and their condition rather than the system. A well-made 5C collet will outperform a too-cheap ER, and a well-made ER will outperform a cheap or worn out 5C.

ER is primarily a tool-holding collet system, whilst 5C is primarily a work-holding system. More about pros and cons in the thread identified by Jason.

I standardised on ER32, no regrets.

Ballistol asked 'There are quite a few videos online highlighting the perils of the cheaper Collet sets accuracy/quality problems, is there an easy way to identify good from bad? ' The answer is partly in the question 'perils of the cheaper Collet sets', and partly related to whom they are bought from. A £20 Rolex bought from a stranger in a pub car-park could be genuine, right? Buying cheap from abroad via the internet is often fine, but it's much riskier than buying expensive named brands from UK industrial suppliers. Throwing money at the problem isn't the answer: top-end ER collets balanced to run at 40,000rpm are seriously expensive and totally unnecessary on a mill that maxes out at 2500rpm. I manage the risk by steering a middle course, generally buying medium priced gear from hobby suppliers like Arc Euro and the others. So far it's worked, but the cost of buying mid-range from reputable suppliers, is I've certainly missed several bargains.

There is an easy way to identify good from bad collets, unfortunately it's by testing them after they arrive…

Dave

[NealebParticipant @nealeb]

As mentioned already, a lot depends on what you are holding and where. I have a lathe with 5C spindle nose and lever-operated closer (elderly British machine) which came with a set of metric collets. I have bought a set of imperial as well, and that works fine for a lot of workholding. Outside that range or for odd sizes, I have a Burnerd Multisize collet chuck, which is a bit like a giant ER collet holder but with its own unique collets (came with machine – would never have bought otherwise!) I like collets for various reasons on the lathe, not least being good for small work without chunky chuck jaws getting in the way. On my CNC mill, though, (no tool-changer, manual only) I use ER32 collets for tool holding. Specific imperial sizes to suit a small range of imperial cutter shanks plus full range of metric. Why imperial as well? As mentioned in another thread, while the metric set does cover a continuous range of sizes, close-fitting ER collets are a little easier to use. Manual mill uses ER32 collet chuck, plus selected R8 collets for most-used cutter shank sizes. ER32 are also used for work-holding in things like Stevenson blocks (useful little devices – see Arc Euro). CNC router uses ER20 for tool-holding – again, mostly metric but selected imperial.

ER32 set originally came from Warco; all other collets from Arc Euro – except metric 5C which came with lathe. Never measured any of them but never felt I needed to worry about them for my purposes.

So, horses for courses! If I did not have a native 5C lathe, I would probably be ER32/ER20 throughout.

Edited By Nealeb on 03/05/2023 07:08:13

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

My metric collets came from Warco and they're all good. My Imperial collets came from Arc Euro and they're fine too.

More to the point, if either set of collets had been been duff, I'm confident both suppliers would have put it right.

Dave

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

I powered up my KX1 setup yesterday and XP bluescreened. Properly.

Then I managed to ensure that the O/S was unrepairable.

The system was built on a Dell desktop using XP Service Pack 3. Mach 3 (USB config) was the original "locked down" version supplied by ArcEurotrade. It has run for quite a few years now without a hitch and has served me well.

I've put the hard drive in another XP machine of the identical specification as drive D: If I run the version of Mach3 using the command line prompt that is on the D: drive – all works fine.

Question – what directories do I need to copy across from the D drive so Mach 3 will run exactly like it has always done but from the C: drive?

Regards

 

Steve

Edited By Steve Withnell on 02/05/2023 13:50:56

[VicParticipant @vic]

Posted by DC31k on 01/05/2023 16:52:15:

Posted by Vic on 01/05/2023 12:53:51:

The MW lathe uses a fairly standard 72mm register and my WT chucks are threaded M33 x 3.5mm.

Please could you clarify the 72mm part.

Is that the spindle register?

If so, that seems quite large for a 14" lathe.

Is the lathe one that has, in effect, the chuck backplate integral with the spindle?

Reading JasonB's post above, I guess that it is so I think what you are looking for would resemble a backplate-mounted ER collet chuck, without the nut and having an M33 thread on it instead of the ER thread.

It may be that a standard backplate-mounted ER chuck could be modified (ER32 has M40 thread, but the wall might be too thin).

An alternative might be an ER20 one (M25 threads) and a bush which is M25 female to M33 male.

Edit:

One of these would work with the idea above:

https://www.ockenden-timber.co.uk/woodturning-chucks-accessories-nexus3r-woodturning-chuck-c-107_108_109_975/thread-adapter-insert-34-x-16tpi-to-m33-x-35-p-2908

just thread the inside to suit the ER thread.

The other option with that one is to surround it with what is effectively a thick washer so that its diameter matches the mounting holes in your backplate and then secure the two parts together (welding is easiest, any mechanical fixing has to resist axial and rotational forces).

Edited By DC31k on 01/05/2023 17:15:25

My 14” lathe has a fairly standard flange mount with a 72mm register. This from arcs site, dimension H is 72mm.

**LINK**

As a point of interest all my wood turning chucks are direct threaded M33 x 3.5mm. I avoid chucks with screw in adapters as I had one once with unacceptable runout.

Basically I need a flange with a 72mm recess on one side and a M33 x 3.5 ISO thread on the other.

it would look something like this. This one is German, I don’t think it fits my lathe but it’s €129 plus postage from Germany.

[thomas ryckmansParticipant @thomasryckmans31633]

Dear all,

I have ordered 2 pulleys and replaced the old one. After a couple of hours of work, the pulley got damaged again -apparently I did not put enough tension in the belt. So replaced the pulley again with my second spare, tensioned the belt better (I could give it half a twist without too much force). A few hours of lathe work later… pulley is again damage with all the teeth grinded smooth. Any recommendations on how I should replace the pulley and tension the belt to avoid this? I'd love to bring it to a Machine Mart but I now live outside of UK and it's not an option… Any tips very much appreciated. Ketan from ARCEuro trade has been super helpful already.

Many thanks

Thomas

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Better to get a flange mounted ER 32 chuck then you don't need a drawbar and can therefore hold longer items, mounts onto a backplate to suit your 290 which can have several different nose options.

ER40 would make better use of your spindle as would a 5C chuck that does not need two spanners and uses a standard chuck key, that's what I have on my 280

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Arc Euro sell all these oils, and H32 Hydraulic Oil is widely available – car factors etc..

Way Oil (aka Slideway Oil) is sticky and resists being wiped off. However, I normally use ordinary 20/80 motor oil on the lathe because I prefer to wipe swarf off as I go and put another dollop on.

I always use Neat Cutting Oil in small quantities. You don't add water to it. A soluble oil is needed to make suds, which has a lot of added water in it. I don't care for suds, prejudice in case it causes rust, but mainly it's messy and unnecessary unless a lot of heavy cutting requiring flood cooling is to be done. I don't do much of that, so dab neat cutting fluid on with a brush, squirt it from a can, or maybe dribbling it through a tube from above depending on how much is needed (not much). I can flood cool with neat oil with a tank and pump, but they weren't a smart buy – rarely used because of the mess. Swarf soaked in cutting fluid is extra horrible.

Not recommended: full-fat milk is an excellent substitute for suds. Two reasons to avoid it; stinks to high heaven when is goes off (quickly), and is a serious biohazard. In the good old days before antibiotics, suds infections picked up through tiny cuts often resulted in amputations. Modern suds are disinfected, but are meant to be replaced fairly often, not left to fester in a tank since 1967! Neat Oil in industrial quantities can be a problem too – I seem to remember it caused inflamed testicles because real men never clean their overalls…

Dave

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hi Mick,

I am guessing that they are probably genuine. I came to learn about them back in July 2016 from Dias Costa – a member of this forum from Portugal.

You will probably get a reply from Tomé Fèteira in due coarse once they are back from holiday. Out of curiosity, I too asked them when I saw your post. Perhaps Dias Costa also knows as he has their old files, I believe which were handed down to him over time.

As a result of discussion with Dias Costa, the late John S and I visited Tomé Fèteira in Portugal in 2016. Here is a link with pictures and some factory footage of our day trip to Lisbon.

A bit of recent history: the factory was purchased by Blu-Dan from Austria in 2005 and you can read about them here.

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 30/04/2023 14:06:59

[Douglas JohnstonParticipant @douglasjohnston98463]

Due to a terminal illness I am clearing out a lot of my workshop stuff. Big items will be left to others to dispose of but I thought I would sell off quite a large selection of high quality carbide inserts. I have been using CCGT06 and similar triangular and square inserts of Taegutec brand for quite a while and picked up a good stock a couple of years ago. These inserts are the sharp polished ones that work superbly on the smaller lathe, you just have to be careful not to chip the edges.They are similar to the ones in the Arc Euro catalogue page 43 but a lot cheaper!

These inserts can just be sent by letter post when taken out of the plastic packaging, so if anybody is wanting to try some send me a pm and I will get back to you.

Doug

[Bill DawesParticipant @billdawes]

On thee subject of batteries I use silver oxide type, based on advice from Arc Eurotrade, longer lasting and more stable voltage apparently.

Bill D.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Paul McDonough on 26/04/2023 16:30:12:

…

infrequently I have noticed the display jump. So far it has jumped a lot and it was easy to notice and a quick re-zero sorted this.

I associated this with moving the jaws a bit quickly perhaps?

I did wonder whether this might be because of very fine brass filings getting in where they shouldn't?

I guess a posher one would avoid these issues.

…

Not necessarily! Jumping is often caused by dirt or a battery problem – low voltage or intermittent contact. Had to give my ArcEuro slide a good clean after milling cast-iron, filthy stuff that goes everywhere. Felt gritty and didn't zero as reliably as normal. Took several wash/wipes with WD40 and clean paper to get all the muck out. I don't think a fancy instrument keeps itself clean.

Never good to rush precision measuring – the goal is to get the right answer.

Dave

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

I have 3 digital calipers, a vernier caliper, and a micrometer. The micrometer is for when accuracy matters.

The three digital calipers are cheap (Aldi), medium (ArcEuro), and medium+(Dasquai). They're all about the same accuracy (0.02mm across the full range), but the dearer models get results more reliably – less fiddling about and double checking.

Lidl gets most use because I don't love it. It can be dropped, stood on, and used as a scribe etc. When it breaks I'll buy another one.

The ArcEuro has a better feel to it, and resets to zero more reliably than the Lidl. With the Lidl, I usually measure 3 or more times to make sure, and never quite trust it. The ArcEuro has better repeatability – twice is usually enough to confirm, so gets used for less rough measuring and when I'm in a hurry. The Dasqua feels very smooth and has 'Absolute Zero', but it was expensive enough to worry about breaking it. So like my height gauge, it's reserved for clean work.

Dasqua batteries last longer than the other two: I suspect it's because the Dasqua has a sealed battery box, and resists condensation.

I prefer digital to analogue calipers mainly because the display is unambiguous, whereas dials require careful reading and more thought. They're also subject to mechanical problems like sticky movements and slop. I think a digital display is worth the cost of the batteries!

The vernier caliper is rarely used – not as accurate, and easy to misread.

Dave

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If you want parts or accessories,, look at suppliers like Arc Euro or RDG for Myford backplates, other suppliers of accessories and tools wilkl be Chronos, Warco, Axminster or Chester

If you bought Model Engineer or Model Engineers'Workshop, many of these names would appear.

Hooward

[Ian Johnson 1Participant @ianjohnson1]

Sounds like a good replacement for the FC150BJ control board. Hopefully it will perform as normal.

Thanks for the wiring details Alan.

I think a call to Arc euro is due soon, get mine sorted out.

IanJ

[thomas ryckmansParticipant @thomasryckmans31633]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 08/04/2023 11:13:14:

Posted by thomas ryckmans on 07/04/2023 11:12:04:

Hi everyone,

I need to change the timing pulley of my CL300M lathe, the spare part I received from ARC (C3-148 Motor Timing Pulley) has an internal diameter of 8.85mm but the axis of the motor has a diameter of 7.91 mm, so of course the pulley moves around. Are there several models of these lathe, where the axis diameter has been changed? Any help much appreciated! As I don't live in the UK anymore, I can't just bring the lathe to a shop

many thanks!

Thomas

Hello Thomas,

Do you really have a Clarke CL300M, or is it some other make?

If you have a Clarke CL300M, then you have ordered the wrong spare.

A Clarke CL300M is a C2 – brushed motor base model mini-lathe.

A C3 mini-lathe looks different from a C2 / CL300M mini-lathe.

You have ordered and received Spare part C3-148 – which has a nominal bore 9.0mm as specified in the details on this page link

You should have ordered C2-148 – which has a nominal bore 8.0mm as specified in the details on this page link

• A C2 mini-lathe is the same as a Clarke CL300M, and to the best of my knowledge, made by SIEG.
• A C2 brushed motor is smaller in frame size than a C3 brushed motor, made by SIEG.

For further clarification, C2 and C3 and CL300M are brushed motor minilathes made by SIEG.

The above models are different from SC2 and SC3 which are brushless motor minilathes made by SIEG.

Minilathes from Axminster, ARC, Clarke, Zoro/Cromwell – Osaki, to the best of my knowledge are made by SIEG.

When buying spares, it is best to be sure about which SIEG machine you… i.e. specifically SIEG C2, C3, SC2, SC3.

Hope above informarion helps.

Ketan at ARC.

Thanks a lot Ketan, I have now ordered the right parts (-should have asked before ordering…). Would you have recommendations for changing the timing pulley? The first time I did not put enough tension on the belt and it ate the new pulley pretty fast. I would have it done at a Machine Mart but I am living outside of UK now, so I need to do it myself.

best

Thomas

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I am fairly confident that my 3 axis DRO readout can run from the mains, without any CR2032 cells in the readers. It is powered by a 6 volt 1 amp switched mode power supply, I believe.

I believe that it is likely that you do not switch off the each reader when not in use? I expect that if you did, the cells would, in fact, last quite a lot longer.

Likely a function of when it is off (really off) and not off (on stand-by🙂 ).

This is mine: DIGITAL DISPLAY UNITS

Edited By not done it yet on 16/04/2023 10:53:52

[Alan Marshall 1Participant @alanmarshall1]

Thanks both, I have the correct pot and arceuro sell the board as a replacement but without circuit data.

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

John MC,

It is a good few years since I fitted my mini mill with 3-axis scales, obtained from ArcEuroTrade. Like you I found that the batteries didn't last long and I quickly replaced the supplied individual read out displays with a mains powered one similar to, if not identical to the one in the link above. I cannot say whether the voltage supplied to the read head is3V, 5V or 6V. The fact that it is supplied via a usb cable would suggest, to me, that it's 5V. An email to ARC would undoubtedly elicit a definitive answer. Not a cheap solution, but the saving in battery costs should be recouped within 8 to 10 years or so.

Not a brilliant photo, but it worked well enough within the limitations of the mill (and its operator). When we moved back to the UK in 2015, I sold the mill and scales etc to a friend nearby, to be replaced with a Warco VMC with glass scales soon after arrival in England.

Another alternative, I suppose is a Touchdro system from YurisToys of which I have read but have no experience I believe others on the forum have used this system however and if you happen to have an unused Android tablet lying around the place, could be a cost-effective solution.

John

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

I notice in an article to fit the replacement board you need to have the matching pot, perhaps the pot you are using is not suitable, the following link goes to the pots on the ARC site.

**LINK**

Emgee

[Alan Marshall 1Participant @alanmarshall1]

My Arc Eurotrade X1 mill developed a fault and the motor control would not run correctly. The motor control, board was of the type FC150BJ which is no longer available but the replacement is supposed to be XMT2315.
I have purchased this from Arc eurotrade but it comes with no circuit connection information. I do have the correct potentiomenter for it.
Having explored the web The Clark Lathe manual has a connection drawing which I have tried but does not work.

Has anyone successfully fitted this board into nthe X! mill? If so what connectiuon arrangement is used.

The connections for the XMT2315 I have tried without success are:

gan… not used
L1 neutral
L2 Live 240V
A- DC out
A+ DC out

K1 and K2 I am unsure I have tried with a switch contact from the on/off/reverse and with no connection at all.

The poetentiometer wires are the same for both boards and go to a plug/socket arrangement.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, I bought my DRO display and two glass scales from ArcEurotrade when they were selling them at a discount price, and I made my own brackets, which I didn't find that difficult, and I wanted to mount my X axis one on the front and still be able to use the stops.

There are more photos DRO's for the Major

Regards Nick.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Posted by lee steabler on 12/04/2023 12:39:11:

Cheers for the reply dave and thor ( sounds like a norwegian folk group ). what sort of prices are we talking for a chinese lathe and have you any links for the sites that sell them

cheers lee

Hi Lee,

If you are in the UK there are several suppliers, a few links below:

***Link*** ArcEutrotrade (Sieg lathes)

***Link*** Warco

***Link*** Axminster

There are many other suppliers but you will get an idea of the price level for Chines lathes. I have an old 290 lathe similar to the Warco WM290, it has served me well for the past decade.

Thor

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by thomas ryckmans on 07/04/2023 11:12:04:

Hi everyone,

I need to change the timing pulley of my CL300M lathe, the spare part I received from ARC (C3-148 Motor Timing Pulley) has an internal diameter of 8.85mm but the axis of the motor has a diameter of 7.91 mm, so of course the pulley moves around. Are there several models of these lathe, where the axis diameter has been changed? Any help much appreciated! As I don't live in the UK anymore, I can't just bring the lathe to a shop

many thanks!

Thomas

Hello Thomas,

Do you really have a Clarke CL300M, or is it some other make?

If you have a Clarke CL300M, then you have ordered the wrong spare.

A Clarke CL300M is a C2 – brushed motor base model mini-lathe.

A C3 mini-lathe looks different from a C2 / CL300M mini-lathe.

You have ordered and received Spare part C3-148 – which has a nominal bore 9.0mm as specified in the details on this page link

You should have ordered C2-148 – which has a nominal bore 8.0mm as specified in the details on this page link

• A C2 mini-lathe is the same as a Clarke CL300M, and to the best of my knowledge, made by SIEG.
• A C2 brushed motor is smaller in frame size than a C3 brushed motor, made by SIEG.

For further clarification, C2 and C3 and CL300M are brushed motor minilathes made by SIEG.

The above models are different from SC2 and SC3 which are brushless motor minilathes made by SIEG.

Minilathes from Axminster, ARC, Clarke, Zoro/Cromwell – Osaki, to the best of my knowledge are made by SIEG.

When buying spares, it is best to be sure about which SIEG machine you… i.e. specifically SIEG C2, C3, SC2, SC3.

Hope above informarion helps.

Ketan at ARC.