Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Have you checked the lathe and motor will turn freely? It may be worn out brushes, more likely than a shorted motor.

If the mechanicals turn freely and the motor isn't shot (it should run slowly on a car battery if you disconnect it from the lathe), then the control board may be shot. See if you can see any obvious signs of burnt out components.

Contact Clarke or Machine Mart for spares, or you could fit a C1 board from Arc Euro http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C1-Lathe-Spares I think Warco a, Chester and Axminster all sell versions of this machine as well. Not cheap, sadly – so do test the motor first.

Neil

[Bill ADAMSONParticipant @billadamson95111]

Hi Guys,

Just thought I would add my comments to this thread to stir the pot a bit. I read with interest the article by John Stevenson in the MEW No. 228 and I was so impressed I immediately checked to see if I could buy an EMG-12 in Australia but no such luck.

I contacted Arc Euro Trade and they had no problem sending a unit to Australia and I wouldn't even have to pay VAT. That sounded good until I found out it would cost me £95 for freight and I would probably have to pay about £75 GST ( Aust. VAT) when it arrived. I thought very hard before I placed the order.

No, I couldn't justify buying it but then again, I have never been able to justify any tools or equipment I have bought for my hobby. I would be a lot better off financially if I had never started this model engineering hobby, but I just love it.

I only have two pet hates about making models.

1. I absolutely hate working with blunt tools. Blunt tools spoil the finished product and takes away the satisfaction of finishing a job to the best of my ability..

2. An even bigger hate than No. 1 hate, is having to stop work in the middle of a machining job to sharpen a tool before you either break the blunt tool or destroy the part you are making. Most tools like drills, lathe cutters and scrapers etc. are relatively simple to take over to the grind wheel or oil stone but not so in the case of end mills. If an end mill is not cutting well and needs sharpening, you have to take it out, get the Quorn out and set it up and then try to get all the angles right so it will cut cleanly. Although the Quorn can do a good job, it takes me a lot of time to sharpen an end mill, but worse, I can never be sure it is correctly sharpened until I try it. That is not always so easy if you have your work piece all set in your mill.

Needless to say, the concept of being able to give an end mill a quick sharpen after using it before you put it away and even better, having all your end mills ready sharpened waiting for you to use them was the clinching thought that decided me to buy a new piece of tooling that I couldn't justify.

Bill A

[Brian GroomeParticipant @briangroome43093]

Martyn,

I assume that you are referring to the old din standard backplate that Chester have fitted on the DB10 lathe (seig super C6) for the 5" chuck. If so pre machined backplates are available from ArcEuroTrade – as are most backplates. Quite why Chester don't stock them is beyond me – bad business practice at the very least – but that's their decision.

Brian

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Ash,
If the spindle motor is only 3/4 HP as Martin suggests then there should be no problem feeding both VFDs from the same 13 amp plug. I would suggest mounting both VFDs in the same box (Ensuring suitable ventilation ) You could then use a common EMI filter to feed both VFDs (This is so you can keep the wiring between the EMI filter and VFDs as short as possible. If you need a source of screened power cable to use between the VFDs and motors then Arc Euro Trade sell it by the metre. (It is on this page of their online catalogue.) It is also good practice to use screened cable between the VFDs and the remote controls. This only needs to be signal type screened cable as it only carries very small currents.

Les.

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

Hi folks,

I am attempting to produce a part with a bore of 13.98mm diameter x about 22mm long.

As you would expect, I am producing this on the lathe but am experiencing difficulties measuring it. First choice was an internal caliper, but mine has a minimum capacity of 15mm. 2nd choice was a 100mm dial caliper with a resolution of 0.02mm Although I specifically bought this tool because of its size for use on the lathe, I have found it awkward to use for measuring bores, due, I think, to the shortness of the internal jaws, together with difficulty in determining accurate location across the diameter. Third choice was Starrett 150mm dial caliper with a resolution of 0.01mm. This was, much to my surprise, much easier to use than the 100mm dial caliper, but even so, there were problems determining accurate location across the diameter.

Furthermore, neither caliper would reach very far down the bore.

In the end, I produced a set of Go/NoGo gauges and these did the job.

I'm now wondering about a set of "Small Hole Gauges" covering the range 3mm – 13mm and a set of Telescopic Gauges covering the range 8 – 150mm. such as those sold by Arc Euro Trade.

Does anyone have any thoughts about these items? Problems with their use? Things to look out for? Not specifically Arc's items, but these tools in general.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

[Paul BarterParticipant @paulbarter66156]

Hello all,

Two questions really, the cross slide on my Hobson H7 lathe, a seeming Myford clone,has 5 thou free play.(gib screw released a tad and hand pressure front to back There is no slack in the fixing, I have fitted a needle roller thrust washer courtesy of Arceurotrade, all the endfloat is between the nut and the screw. Is this acceptable? If not I would like to make a new nut as the threads on the screw look fine. and a new leadscrew is probably unobtainable, the Myford version looks similar but is very dear.I hope to cut the thread with a 3/8 Acme tap ,but what material?is brass adequate and if so any particular grade, or should I bite the bullet and use phosphor bronze. Thanks for any suggestions.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Richard,
An opto-isolator is just a infra red photo diode in the same package as an infra red photo transistor. When current is passed through the photo diode the light from it causes the photo transistor to conduct. There is no electrical connection between the diode and transistor. They are normally in the form of a dual in line or surface mount package which will contain one or more isolators. You could think of it as a fast low power relay. Regarding electrical interference from VFDs. ALL VFDs will produce interference particularly from the cable to the motor and the mains power lead to the VFD. It is good practice to use screened cable between the VFD and the motor and fit a mains filter CLOSE to the power input terminals of the VFD.  Arc Euro Trade sell screened cable by the metre and EMI filters. (In the section High Speed Spindles, Motors & Inverters.)

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 08/05/2015 08:47:09

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 08/05/2015 08:53:56

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Reece,
I agree with John that the mosfets have probably been destroyed by the original fault with the reversing switch or speed control potentiometer.. I would suggest trying to identify the original cause of the fault in the box with the reversing switch and potentiometer. It may have been some swarf that had got into the box and caused a short. If you cannot pin it down to the switch, the pot or swarf then I think it would be a good idea to replace both the switch and the pot as well as repairing the controller board. (Arc Euro Trade stock the pot and switch.)

Les.

[ANDY CAWLEYParticipant @andycawley24921]

Jeff, surely it's the adjusting screw that stops the thing from flying apart?

I did see the Arc Euro extension bar and have stored it away for future reference however we do not always have the luxury of doing things the "perfect" way.

[Anonymous]

I bought one from ArcEuroTrade. I don't use it on the lathe as I have a set of Burnerd multisize collets, instead I bought it for use on the CNC 4th axis. I machined a backplate from a lump of hot rolled steel. If I recall TIR at the end of a 330mm length of silver steel in a 25mm collet was less than 0.05mm, largely due to alignment of the rotary table:

Perfectly acceptable for my application.

Andrew

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I bought one of these for my Harrison vertical milling machine From arc euro. It was 100% better than the cheapo Indian one I hade. It transformed my my quality of milling in the home workshop. Some people on here have commented that it looks too big on my Miller, and it probably does but as others have answered I can mount a smaller one in it if I have to. I am currently building a sweetpea 5" and 4" traction engine and it does all I need.

Model number:

130-040-04125

Edited By Boiler Bri on 30/04/2015 22:53:28

[Karl LangshawParticipant @karllangshaw22965]

Moved to this thread to keep things together.

Karl have a read of what Ketan and John S have to say and then maybe it won't see as expensive.

 

 

Please tell me that I am not the only one who was left picking my lower jaw off the floor when I saw the price of this item from arc eurotrade. £800 quid for a device that can ONLY sharpen end mills, they have got to be having a laugh????

I think I will be sticking to my homemade device which cost a few quid and does a perfectly good job.

Edited By JasonB on 27/04/2015 09:56:57

Edited By JasonB on 27/04/2015 09:58:38

[Oompa LumpaParticipant @oompalumpa34302]

Posted by Ian Phillips on 26/04/2015 09:45:21:

I think there is a clue to the cause of the failure in that you wrote, a Dickson 'Type' toolpost.

Hard to say without a picture of the other side of the part but somehow it has the look of being a cast or sintered component. Obviously not up to its job anyway.

Ian P

I make no excuses for the toolpost Ian, it came with a deal way back when and I have been quite happy with it. Been buying my toolholders from A&R precision and unfortunately find myself in the position of having quite a big investment in toolholders but requiring a bigger toolpost and holders for my new (bigger) lathe. I am going to leave things be right now as everything is working.

Anyhow, back to the plot. I too got out the inch and a quarter bar of Silver Steel ready to make the new part when I had a bit of a "why not?" moment and pulled some Titanium instead. I had just received my weekly care package from ArcEuro and this week it was a set of collett blocks. How the hell did I get by without them! A definite Must Have.

Turned out well and fits perfectly. I will let you know how I get on with it.

graham.

Bob H. they shouldn't have snapped if you had tempered them. But anyway, give Darren a call at A&R and see if he can help.

Edited By Oompa Lumpa on 26/04/2015 20:36:37

[Anonymous]

Update: Following a 'phone call this afternoon from a concerned friend I took note of what he said, re-read the notes on broaching on the ArcEuroTrade website, and went for it:

Overall it worked out pretty well. The necessary shims were made from shim stock, but I might well buy the proper item from Arc in due course. The Bridgeport coped ok, although if I was using a larger broach than 1/8" then I'd use the flypress.

Andrew

[Steven GreenhoughParticipant @stevengreenhough56335]

Evening knowledgable folk.

Firstly this is going to be quite long, secondly it's hypothetical (mostly) but a few words of wisdom would be appreciated…

In a few weeks time I'm off to Harrogate and I intend to get there early on Friday in the hope of grabbing a bargain or two.

One of the 'requirements' I'm evaluating is the ability to hold various rotating cutters at the headstock/spindle end of the lathe. Things like slitting saws, fly cutters, maybe even end mills and slot drills.

Now my lathe is a CJ18. I bought it from Simon at SPG tools at last year's show. For anyone who doesn't know it's a lathe that is essentially also sold by Warco (Super Mini), Amadeal (7×14 mini lathe) and Chester (Conquest)

Again, for those who are unfamiliar, the mandrel doesn't have a nose thread, instead the spindle has an integral flange with a locator step. The flange does the job of a backplate and a chuck of the same outside diameter (mine is a 100mm version) and with a matching recess fits to the flange-plate-thingy. The flange is integral, it cannot be removed, See Pics:

The spindle bore is 20mm (ish) with MT3 taper. Which brings me back to mounting my (so far imaginary) cutters.

I know I could buy 'quite cheaply' (or potentially even make, 'quite slowly&#39 arbours for my various requirements, from soft stub mt3 blanks (equipped with drawbar threads) BUT Alex Collin's Idris build thread has highligted an issue with lathes like mine in that there isn't much room if you seat (in his example) an MT3 arbour within the mandrel for the the workpiece (I'm thinking about making multiple parallel incisions here, along a long workpiece). What alex ended up doing was mounting his MT? arbour in his chuck, quite extended to get the room, which worked but he acknowledged himself that it wasn't exactly ideal…

What I'm actually thinking is that an ER type collet chuck would be a better proposition in that it would allow the use of standard milling tools etc in a suitable sized collet, hold small round work more concentrically than the chuck, and take straight-shafted arbours for saws, fly cutters etc. The benefit over traditional tapered arbours would be that the chuck body and collet retainer would push whatever cutter that bit further (I'm guessing around 20-30mm depending on which ER size I plump for) away from the flange. When the cutter holder itself is taken into account we could obtain some useful distance!

This leaves another quandry though: I could get an MT3 collet chuck, like I believe are sold for milling machines really (apologies to ARC for the use of your info):

**LINK**

or I could get one of the more bespoke flange mounted ones that ARC, RDG, etc. sell:

**LINK**

So, my question to anyone who's managed to read this far, what would you do?

1.) Buy/make MT3 arbours for whatever cutter I'm using, with as much length as can be found?

2.) Buy (or I suppose even make, but I think the ER system requires more that I'm yet capable of) a MT3 & drawbar style ER collet chuck (and a few collets abviously)?

3.) As above, but the spindle/flange mount version?

D.) Something different Steven, you obviously don't have a clue!?

Thanks in advance for any replies, I know that this has been a bit of an odyssey.

Steve, Manchester

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Those dimensions are similar to the tapers used on Flexispeed lathes, which is the small half of a No. 0 Morse taper. Sadly, I don't think you'll find anything commercially available. The parallel shank of a rotating centre for a C0 lathe from arceuro can be turned down to a fitting taper.

HTH

Rod

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Raymond,
The thread had come to an end as Kevin's new reversing switch from Arc Euro Trade is fitted and working. I was not sure yesterday if you already had a working reversing switch fitted and working but just thought it would be a good idea to have a spare to hand. If it is a question on how to connect the reversing switch in your picture or one similar to the two types that Arc Euro Trade stock then starting a new thread is probably a good idea to save people having to wade through all the questions and answers which are not relevant to your question. If you do want to know how to wire a reversing switch could you give me some idea of your level electrical knowledge. For example can you read a wiring diagram. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it.
Like J.S I find it amusing that a lot of Myford owners treat their late more like a museum exhibit than a tool. They must be painted exctly the right colour, they must have a "Dewhurst" reversing switch and they will not make any modifications that involves drilling holes.

Les.

[Raymond Sanderson 2Participant @raymondsanderson2]

Posted by Les Jones 1 on 20/04/2015 09:18:09:

Hi Raymond,
A Myford owner admitting to having a reversing switch other than a "Dewhurst" I thought that was against their religion or some unwritten law. (I'm sure JS will know the details.) Back to being sensible. Although the two switches That Arc Euro Trade sell are suitably rated they may possibly not be suitable for switching under load as seems to be the case on a lot of Myfords. They only seem to have the reversing switch. I would recommend fitting an NVR switch or proper motor starter for stopping and starting the lathe and just operate the reversing switch when the motor is stopped.

Les.

Hi Les

Yes i should hang my head in shame I know but at $25 it was a bargain having seen them on ebay at $150+ ouch. It wa suggested a NVR switch be fitted by the President of Hornsbey Model Rail club after he did work out wiring set up for the switch and motor I have fitted which was on the lathe when I purchased it.

To me the NVR will be the better install for my use and space.

Here are photos of the switch (I'll take one with it open latter) the motor and info on it.

If I am hijacking this thread I apologise happy to have it moved.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Raymond,
A Myford owner admitting to having a reversing switch other than a "Dewhurst" I thought that was against their religion or some unwritten law. (I'm sure JS will know the details.) Back to being sensible. Although the two switches That Arc Euro Trade sell are suitably rated they may possibly not be suitable for switching under load as seems to be the case on a lot of Myfords. They only seem to have the reversing switch. I would recommend fitting an NVR switch or proper motor starter for stopping and starting the lathe and just operate the reversing switch when the motor is stopped.

Les.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Dave,

The Clarke CMD 300 is a rebranded Sieg X2 Milling/Drilling Machine, I have the same machine with different paint work. I have had it for over a decade and used it for light work, and I still use it even if I have a larger milling machine. I have not had any problem with the controller board or the plastic gears. The Sieg X2P is a better choice in my opinion, but with a higher price tag. It has a fixed column, larger worktable and a brushless DC motor.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 19/04/2015 06:05:20

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Maurice,
The backplates are not just made for the collet chucks so they are made in sizes to be used with 4 and 5 inch 3 or 4 jaw chucks. The collet chucks are made to fit directly on to certain lathes which means they are different diameters. I would choose the smaller one myself. Do you realise that you have to machine the backplate to fit the collet chuck. It would be worth phoning Arc Euro just to confirm that there is no problem with your choice of backplate and collet chuck.

Les.

[Maurice Cox 1Participant @mauricecox1]

I have a set of ER32 collets, and wish to by a collet chuck holder for my Myford. Arctrade Euro list 4'' and 5" holders and both sizes of backplate to suit a Myford. Does one size have any advantage over another please?

Regards Maurice

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

David I bought a sieg SX3 from ArcEuro, a great experience from great people, and it weighs about 160 Kg. I also bought the Sieg stand for it and so the same problem of lifting occurred. I got 2 very strong friends to help lift it into position. That hurt a bit but we managed it. The problem is that if it is assembled then it has a disproportionate share of the weight at the back! Then you have to factor in the lack of room around the machine to allow everybody to grip and lift. To further add to the potential problems………..I apparently had a leaky heart valve and needed a replacement, plus a by pass at the time, BUT none of us knew that. Ha ha ha how we laughed when we found out some months later.

If yours is a mere 60 Kg you should have no problem lifting it with some assistance. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine.

[David Brown 9Participant @davidbrown9]

Hi, I had a Sieg SX2 Plus Mini Mill delivered on Monday from Arc Eurotrade (excellent service), I have been building a hopefully suffuciently strong table for it. Soon I will need to get it on to the table.

As it weighs 60kg I will not be trying to lift it! I have no room in my small flat for lfiting gear, and anyway I am spent up for the time being! So I need to take it apart so I can lift it a peice at a time. I have found information as to how to take apart the x y table.

Can anyone advise me how to remove the head?

Also I presume I need to remove the grease from the table etc? I read somewhere that WD40 can be used?

David

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Hi Guys, thanks for all the links to possible clamp sets. Perhaps I should have posted the query in the beginners section. Yes – I can make my own T-bolts and nuts using coach bolts as suggested by Jesse (in fact have just finished doing such), but it was the rest of the pieces that I needed to have as a "starter" pack to appreciate what they can (and can't do) before branching out to make my own. With regard to the mismatch between 5/16" and 9mm – I'm happiest in metric and the T-slot was exactly 9mm – 5/16" was the nearest (going smaller) fractional size that made sense. So it's the 8mm sets I am after – Chester do a 3/8" set – too big; Warco set is larger still (10mm) – but arceurotrade do a 24 pcs 8mm set – just right (beginning to sound like Goldilocks and the 3 bears).