Search Results for 'arc euro'

[SteambuffParticipant @steambuff]

Hi,

Mach3 does not officially support interfacing via USB … Issues with timing

 

I have used these products successfully **LINK** They are also available on ebay (Search for "Mach3 USB" limit search to EU – Seller chz.01 is based in France) – Mine was around €30 – £22 It loads a special driver.

(Uses your existing parallel interface breakout board)

Other people have had success with a UC100 but this is a lot more expensive.

Dave

 

 

 

Edited By Steambuff on 11/06/2015 18:23:23

[Michael Cox 1Participant @michaelcox1]

My first attempts at milling were carried out on my minilathe using the Seig milling attachment. This is not a very satisfactory milling attachment. A good criticism of it is here:

http://andysmachines.weebly.com/the-vertical-milling-slide—criticisms.html

I persevered with it for some time and managed to do some milling but in the process I broke/chipped several milling cutters. These breakages were partly due to the sloppiness of the milling attachment, cross slide and coarseness of feed but mainly due to inexperience. The lessons I learned from this were:

a. I needed to buy a milling machine

b. I needed to make a cutter grinder in order to recover broken/chipped milling cutters

I purchased an X1 milling machine from ArcEurotrade and almost instantly milling became much easier.

At around the same time there was an article in MEW by Ralph Sparrow (MEW 117 July 2006) entitled "Sharpening with diamond discs". In this he described a jig that held the head of a flexible shaft, attached to a rotary tool, at an angle that could be readily set. This was designed to fit on the bed his Unimat lathe and using this set up and a small diamond disc in the flexible shaft head he was able to sharpen lathe tools, milling cutters and twist drills. These diamond disc are readily available from several suppliers including Arc Eurotrade. This all sounded very good and I went on to build this lathe attachment and various jigs to hold tools, milling cutters and drills. My rotary tool flexible drive was from ALDI and the head had much end and side play. I had to rebuild the head of the flexible drive in order to be able to rotate the diamond disc reliable without wobble or end play.

I used this arrangement on my lathe for some time and produced some good results sharpening all my broken/chipped milling cutters. It was even possible to sharpen cutters as small as 3 mm diameter because the diamond discs had a very well defined edge. The only thing I did not like about the arrangement was all the dust flying about so close to the lathe.

I had made a lower base for the topslide of my minlathe and I had the old one spare. I also had the old minilathe milling attacment and I started to think about making a dedicated cutter grinder based on these components together with the Ralph Sparrow attachment. I ordered the the top part of the topslide from Clark (it is a Clark minilathe) . I used the milling attachment to provide the infeed and the topslide to provide the crossfeed and made a small fabricated track for the Ralph Sparrow part.

The completed cutter grinder is shown here:

The milling attachment and the topslide are clearly visible. On the topslide is a rotating table that holds the jig that holds the cutter. The rotating table has a an angular scale and it can be locked at any angle by pinch screw. The Ralph Sparrow attachment is on the right hand side carrying the flexible shaft head. This sits on the fabricated track.

The unit is small with a footprint of about 300 x 300mm.

I hope this is of interest to others.

Mike

No response after ordering

[Claus HansenParticipant @claushansen90462]

Hi

I ordered some cutting tools from Arceurotrade.

Mostly milling cutters and some reamers.

The total order around £170.

They dispatched it very fast, but when i got it, i discovered that one cutter where missing (value around £8)

I have tried to get in touch with them 3 times the last 10 days, but they do not respond.

Any with similar experience??

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 08/06/2015 15:48:20

[Jesse Hancock 1Participant @jessehancock1]

I thought you had misspelled arceuro for a moment but it would seem to be a very cunning gadget after all.

[Owain SamuelParticipant @owainsamuel55325]

Over the years I've bought 3 machines off Warco, one of their drill presses (since sold due to an upgrade to an Arboga mill/drill), the 41/2" bandsaw and the VMC mill. Currently considering upgrading the VMC to one of their larger turret mills.

In all my dealings the customer service was excellent. Delivery (once you got over palletline's (ahem) unique customer service) was excellent. This included when after a year of ownership the start cap on the drill's motor lettting go. I emailed warco, went off to work where in the way the universe works I was asked (that day) to scrap a shredder that was driven by a motor of the same rating. So one recovered start cap later, I was back up and running. I forgot about the email to warco and so was very impressed when a replacement cap landed on the doormat several days later, especially since I hadn't given my address in the email.

Other companies with a similar excellent delivery record in my dealings are Arc Euro (order placed on a bank holiday monday, delivered on the wednesday of the same week) and RDG. On the other hand the one occasion I ordered off chronos half the order turned out not to be in stock (which I discovered after completing the order) and straggled in over a period of several weeks.

Owain

[Maurice Cox 1Participant @mauricecox1]

After some thought, I purchased a 400mm ER32 collet chuck and a suitable Myford pattern back plate, from Arc Trade Euro. I have just finished machining and fitting it. On testing the internal taper at several points, I found the maximum runout to be about half of one tenth of a thou! Very pleased with the result. I have no connection with Arc Trade Euro, other than as an occasional and very satisfied customer.

In order to fasten the chuck to the back plate, I required three screws. I went to Apex Fasteners on Slough trading estate in Berks. The chap that served me found the correct screws for me, didn't complain when I changed my mind about the length, and when I came to pay for them he said "put fifty pence in the Poppy Appeal Box". I gladly put more than that in. What a great firm! I have used them for several years now and they are so helpful, knowledgable, and have no minimum charge. I know that few readers of this forum will be able to use them, but I just wanted to say how great they are! Such a refreshing change. Again, I have no conection with them.

Maurice

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I use an ER16 2 morse collet holder with mine – mostly to give good visual clearance for smaller things and cutters. I also use a set of ArcEuro morse taper collets for bigger cutters. It's fun buying some all thread to suite the collets and then drilling and taping a short length to suit the DW draw bar and loctiting it in.

My boring head fits on the myford spindle nose. I also have some carbide tipped screw fitting face cutters that will have an adapter made for them at some point. I tend to do things like that when I need them.

Adding a bit more – my dore dividing head also has a myford spindle nose so as I use a boxford I have a 3morse to myford adapter for that.

John

–

Edited By John W1 on 05/06/2015 15:27:02

Edited By John W1 on 05/06/2015 15:28:32

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I fail to understand why people use engine oil for general lubrication of a lathe when they can buy iso 32 hydraulic oil instead. Personally though I find the best thing for slide ways is slide way oil. Little is needed and it hangs around for some time and doesn't absorbing moisture from the air or gum up like most automotive oils do. In fact I wish I could get the next grade up in small quantaties which is suitable for vertical surfaces. Automotive oils are designed to run hot for long periods. They also have all sorts of additives in them. It's also well know in some circles that if these oils are changed at say twice the recommended interval things might never wear out. They aren't as great as some might think. They did get well ahead of engine etc technology for a while but those days have gone.

Real gearhead lathes generally use hardened and ground gears. It's easy to see when a lathe has these or even by ear. I'm not at all sure what I would use to lubricate typical Chinese use of gears in small lathes and millers but I would like the sludge worn from the gears to settle at the bottom rather than circulate and grind the gears down further. I'm inclined to use grease on the back gears of my boxford and oil on change wheels and gearbox etc. I have been a bit naughty on change wheels I should use ISO 32 but use a GP oil.

I've not looked at Chinese lathe ball/roller bearings but suspect just as when the Koreans were the source of smaller lathes that some wont be hardened. From memory ArcEuro have some pages on changing NVG bearings. I've used molyslip grease on bearings for some time. My lathes have been relatively low speed in terms of what typical greases can handle. Of late because it's available I use a high speed one that ArcEuro sell. Believe it or not it will extend life. It's important to not add too much grease of any sort to bearings of this type.

Plain bearings – Myford etc really do need to use the right lubricant if they are to last. I'd hazard a guess that ISO 32 hydraulic oil meets the spec for these as well – a highly refined mineral oil.

John

–

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Hi Neil

I have fitted similar dro's to my VM 16 as Bob; but I have the scales that have remote readouts as opposed to having the 2 axis display unit… in the similar lengths… ArcEuro #…. 8" & 24"

100-061-00200… 8"

100-061-00500… 24"

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Digital-Readouts-with-Dedicated-Remote-Display

So far both have served well for my needs & the cost is reasonable… See my pics in my album… 'DRO' …for fixings.

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 04/06/2015 10:13:31

[RedpiperbobParticipant @redpiperbob16487]

Hi Neil

I have only just seen this thread.

I have just DRO'd my SPG 2217 III

These are the sizes I fitted to mine

100-060-10200	2 Axis Digital Display Unit – USB		£69.05	1	£69.05
100-040-10300	Horizontal Digital Readout Bar 200mm/8" Large Display		£22.39	1	£22.39
100-040-10600	Horizontal Digital Readout Bar 500mm/20" Large Display		£61.20	1	£61.20

I got them from Arc Euro Trade ( No link To them I am just a satisfied customer )

Bob

<edited to stop table going off to the right>

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 04/06/2015 20:49:30

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

i started using slideway lubricating oil off ebay some time ago. It does it's job well. Little is needed and it's stable and hangs around for a long time with no noticeable fuming. It's obviously from the state of the bottle it's kept in that it doesn't absorb moisture etc from the air either. Can't say the same thing for my cutting oil but I only use that sparingly.

I've used moly grease for a very long time. I was a little concerned about it's speed rating but haven't had any problems. ArcEuro started selling a high speed type some time ago so now if something needs grease I use that. In the past it could be difficult to get hold of it and despite what some people think it does extend life. Ford have been known to start using it on some parts that aren't making it through the warantee period. These days there are some incredibly expensive greases available.

Some people use a hydraulic fluid for spindle and general lubrication especially to replace oils mentioned in older lathe literature. Like those these are generally highly refined mineral oils.

I used to use all sorts of things when my lathe was in the garage including wd40 to prevent rust. It didn't take me long to realise why I developed a cough. Then there is the problem of hand contact – engine oil isn't intended for that and does smell. It's also intended for use where it's very hot for extended periods.

John

–

Edited By John W1 on 03/06/2015 09:45:21

Edited By John W1 on 03/06/2015 09:46:57

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

For those who do not subscribe to the MEW in some way, here is a link to the article on our website, published with the kind permission of John Stevenson and Neil Wyatt – editor Model Engineers' Workshop Magazine:

**LINK**

Also, a small note to say that we sold out of these machines last Friday, and new stock is expected back in around early August 2015.

Ketan at ARC

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I think Jason hit the nose on the head when he suggested morse collets. I have a dore westbury. It's morse 2 in a hefty spindle and that type of collet is the best option for a lot of work. I bought suitable metric and imperial collets because I like to buy bargains when they crop up.

I think you will find that standard shank diameters in your sizes are 3,4,5,6 and 8mm diameter. The actual cutting diameters at these sizes will vary. You will find that it's possible for instance to get 3mm cutters with a 6mm shank. The other smaller sizes of shank are more likely to be found on solid carbide cutters. You could get a better idea of the variations in this area by browsing ArcEuro's pages. They for instance only sell cutters with 6,10 and 12mm dia shanks.

ER collet holders sound very attractive but are just as much pain to change as a morse collet when a change is needed. I am not aware of any 1 morse versions anyway. I do use an ER16 holder at times because of the size of the quill on my miller – they give more reach from the quill and also give me a better view of what is going on. The parallel shank ones are often used on "big" milling machines for the same reasons. My DW isn't big but is based on a Myford lathe spindle nose.

John

–

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I have fitted this type of scale to my WM 16 on X & Y axes, just pick the length to suit your axes; fitting was relatively simple & drilling the cast frame proved easy enough… remember to set your scales level horizontally even though my pics show my Y axis as following the frame contour it is level on the horizontal plane.

**LINK**

see my album… DRO…

George.

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

I have a Sieg SX1l (ex ArcEuro) and am interested in fitting some form of DRO – any comments on how (especially the Z axis) and any experience with the cheaper DRO suppilied by eg ArcEuro –

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

As you probably also have quite limited space between the mill spindle and the work you may be better off using MT1 collets that fit directly into teh taper and will save you a couple of inches.

These are only suitable for nominal sizes eg 3mm, 4mm, 5mm (or 1/8" 5/32", 3/16" ) not a problem with milling cutter shanks but you would have to switch to a drill chuck for intermediate sizes when drilling etc.

The ERs will allow you to grip anything within each collets range so will save some time in changing between collet holder and drill chuck but at the cost of room not just the length mentioned above but also the dia of the closing nut can get in te way at times when using small cutters. I'm not sure that there are may MT1 collet holders about in te smaller sizes anyway.

[Maurice Cox 1Participant @mauricecox1]

Is there a minimum length that can be gripped in an ER32 collet please? I'm an old dog learning new tricks. I'm less concerned about the work moving, than damaging the collet. Also, I wish to purchase a holder to mount the collets on my Myford. RDG Tools and Arctrade Euro both advertise them for around £45. Axminster tools stock one in a wooden box complete with the three screws an a "C" spanner, for just over £100. None of the firms mentioned seem to make any claim as to the standard of accuracy to expect. Has any one any comments please?

Regards Maurice

[Anonymous]

Posted by Gary on 25/05/2015 12:41:32:

The con Rod so far – again my camera does a demolition job on the finish, (its not as bad to the eye as it looks in the photo, but I do need to get better quality cutters as used ones get replaced in future – this job has made that clear – you can say I told you so Andrew if you read this!).

I wouldn't be so smug as to say so!

Here's the sort of finish you can achieve with decent cutters:

The slightly 'stripey' finish is with a well used Garr three flute slot drill used on the end, and the face nearest the camera is with a new 4 flute slot drill from ArcEuroTrade used on the side and cutting full depth, about 25mm. The finishes are straight off the machine, I hate faffing about with emery and the like.

Andrew

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Hi Andrew,

I have the WM-180 and bought a Model 100 Quick Change Tool Post Set from Arc Eurotrade and it works very well. I did have to make a new centre sleeve and bore the bottom of the main body of the toolpost with a carbide boring bit but it was ok. I currently use one of my M10 hold down bolts to clamp it in place as it's high tensile.

**LINK**

Regards,
Ed.

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

So I have bought the wrong taps and dies ! I assumed that they would all be metric coarse.

1. These are listed on the plans : M6 X 0.75, M5 X 0.5 and M4 X 0.35. The first two seem to be standard metric fine but after looking at various websites (Chronos Tracey Tap and Die Co. Arc Euro etc. ) they only seem to have M4 X 0.5 listed under metric fine. Nobody seems to have M4 X 0.35…is this a very odd size ?

2. Their smaller screws are listed only as M2 or M3 and the length ie. no pitch is given. Is it safe to assume that these would also be metric fine ? Is it normal to mix metric coarse and fine on the one engine ?

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

It is time for our old and faithful server to retire after giving us more than seven years of great service. We would have loved to carry on using the same server, but alas, the hardware is getting tired, and Microsoft has also decided to stop providing software updates for the old software.

So tomorrow – Thursday 21 May 2015, we will be de-commissioning the old server and moving everything onto a new server. How long the process will take is difficult to say.

So, as a precautionary measure, Arc Euro Trade Ltd. will be closed between 9a.m. and 5p.m. – Thursday 21 May 2015. Our telephone lines and trade counter will be closed during this period, and the website will only be open for browsing without having the ability to place any orders.

There will also be a delay in processing orders received on or after 2p.m. today.

Please accept our apologies for the inconvenience.

Ketan Swali – Director – Arc Euro Trade Ltd.

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Try expanding mandrels, available from the likes of Arc Euro, RDG Tools etc.

[Anonymous]

Ed: I've never come across backlash compensation in CAM programs. It would make more sense for it to be in the controller software? I guess that the other important parameter for a high speed spindle is runout, especially as the cutters are generally pretty small. The prices for the stamps seem pretty reasonable to me if you're doing more than one piece. And certainly so compared with the time, and cost, needed to do any sort of conversion.

John: I have a Series II Tormach, and it is still as supplied. At the time I bought it seemed to be the only sensibly priced CNC mill available off the shelf that would allow 4th axis machining and would cope with the size of work I do. The steppers do make some odd noises, almost musical, when machining arcs, but at the moment there is no overwhelming reason to upgrade to the Series III steppers that are on offer. Likewise I might at some point upgrade to the new controller, but there are many other more pressing calls on cash at the moment. I think the speeder (I thought it was a tripler?) is still available, but it is not cheap. If and when I need to do any more engraving or a lot of machining with small cutters (<2mm) I plan to invest in a secondary spindle and VFD, as sold by ArcEuroTrade.

Andrew

Andrew

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The picture on ARC's site will tell you wahts right/left