Search Results for 'arc euro'

[mick70Participant @mick70]

arc euro sell them

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Colin, I haven't ever seen 5/16 but 8mm are available. They don't have as many pieces in the sets as the larger ones do though. **LINK** and **LINK** are two that I know of.

Regards Nick.

[AndyPParticipant @andyp13730]

I have had my Sieg X21 mill for over 8 years, it didn't come from ArcEuroTrade but the long table did – made a huge difference. It has done everything I have asked of it. I regularly use my 6" Soba rotary table on it and it is still on the original plastic gears so maybe I am a magician or maybe some of the "facts" about these mills are not too factual. If it vanished tomorrow I would buy another one but from Arc this time.

Andy

[SteambuffParticipant @steambuff]

I have a SIEG X1L supplied by ArcEuroTrade. Excellent Mill, Excellent Service (Pre and Post Sales) Delivery was on the day quoted.

Well worth giving them a ring.

Dave

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Kevin,
Your results confirm that the switch is faulty. The contact on the switch between terminals 7 & 8 is totally faulty. The resistance of the other contacts is a bit higher than I would expect. (I should have asked you to check the resistance of your meter test leads so that value could be subtracted from the readings.) Although Ketan and the others staff at Arc Euro Trade are extremely helpful I would not expect them to be be able to supply the information about the switch. If you were using it to replace the switch on A Seig C6 It would be just a matter of swapping the wires over from the old switch. I have managed to find some wiring diagrams for the C6 but non show the the labelling of the switch connections. They do show that the switch is functionally the same as your switch.

Les.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Kevin,
One switch that would probably do the job is the reversing switch from a Seig C6 lathe. (early model) Arc Eurotrade sell these for £12.50 plus postage. (Arc's part number is C6-205 )The problem would be you would have to work out the contact arrangement on the switch. I think it would be too difficult to talk you through the steps required to do this and I live too far away from you to help. See how you get on with the resistance measurements. If you are lucky it could turn out to be a bad connection somewhere even though this is unlikely.

Les.

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

0JT and MT1 are about £3.80 from Arceuro Trade. Link on this very homepage. HTH.

[Michael CheckleyParticipant @michaelcheckley34085]

I found this fella in a used tool shop when I was on a break in the peak district. He wanted £700 for it claiming they cost well over £2k new. I was tempted but left it in the shop knowing they go for much less on ebay. Makes the Arc Euro one a bargain though….IF it does the same job….

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by JasonB on 10/04/2015 15:14:55:

 

Can't see it on Arc's site and not a lot on the net

 

 

It's in the 'Machines' section. http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories

 

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 10/04/2015 16:13:48

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

Took delivery of a new Precision Tool Vice c/o Arc Euro Trade and promptly put it to work.

I wanted something that was a little more accurate than my other vice which this has so far proved to be the case.

Bob

[Martin King 2Participant @martinking2]

Hi All,

Finally got around to having a go at installing this unit with some very kind help and 'phone calls from Ian Parkin, many thanks Sir!.

Made the alloy plate by transfering the hole positions from the yellow plate on the mill, drilled and c/bored.

Made the steel posts and fiited to the dismantled motor plate then had a bit of head scratching to work out how to mark the holes on the alloy plate. In the end made a brass piece to fit the mill shaft at one end and the motor bush at the other, jiggled it all around with vee blocks to keep top edges square, held a small square against the transfer punch which had to have a turn of tape arounfd it as i have no metric ones. Got a pal to tap the punch whennm all square. One the DRO to my utter amazement the holes matched to within 2thou x & y!

When all bolted up , measured for the central sliding joint which was easily made. Then managed to break 2 centre drills and one tap while doing the bolt to tighten to the mill shaft! Going too fast I think so my fault.

I should mention that in the middle of all this I was using my brand new (2days) co-axial centre finder which is amazing. All was fine until I tried the little accessory that picks up a centre punch mark. I somehow had too much tension on the spring part and while adjusting it snapped off. I was not a happy bunny!

Arceuro told me that they do not carry spares and could only do another unit so was pretty much amazed when they got back to me and offered a complete second unit a a price that was way more than fair to help me out, great service!

The motor unit was finally put back on today but for some reason it only runs at one speed – pretty damn fast! the rheostat switch seems to do nothing so I guess its back on to AXI technical to see what the problem is.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Peter,

First … Wecome aboard !!

No, I don't have one of these, but I am interested to understand the problem.

Is there any way that you can check whether the error is in the position of the rotational stop, or in the dimensons of the parts? … I think that either could cause the mis-alignment.

MichaelG.

[Peter DobsonParticipant @peterdobson35505]

Has anyone acquired one of these devices and had a problem with alignment.. I have just acquired one from ARC Eurotrade and found that when I put a centre in the turret it would not line up with a centre in the headstock. A phone call and a visit to ARC (yes I live close by) produced a replacement without any quibble. The problem starts with the fact that the new one does not line up either. Ian at ARC is not aware of any problems with these and is happy to offer a refund but I have decided to see whether any one else has had the same problem and might be able to offer a solution. I know I could remove the taper arbour and bore out the hole to fit a new one but it is fixed with a roll pin in a blind hole and removing that will not be easy.

I have checked the tailstock alignment and as far as I can tell it is perfectly OK.

Peter D

[Jesse Hancock 1Participant @jessehancock1]

Larry, hope you're still reading this thread.

They use the method which you describe to bend large diameter tubing into arcs as well. While working on the New dock at Avonmouth we tried to bend pipes using this method. We failed since we just couldn't control either the heat or the cooling process.

Just google large diameter pipe bending and be prepared to have your neurons flip.

What works in one direction also works in the other to take out a bend heat the bend and then cool it until it becomes straight.

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 04/04/2015 09:11:47

[Another JohnSParticipant @anotherjohns]

I put some push-button oilers on my version of the mill – 6 of them. It did mean dismantling the mill, putting the parts on another mill, milling the ways to put oil grooves and pockets in, and then carefully putting it back together again.

I also CNCd it in the process. Here's my blog entry with pictures of some of the milling happening: **LINK**

The push-button oilers came from Arc Eurotrade.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Mick

I have a Wm16 fitted with a DRO on X & Y axes; I just wind it along as far as the DRO allows then use an oil can with a plunger / pump type handle & a flexible spout, the same applies to the Y axis. I have so far never had the need to use the full length of the X axis; the longest length I have machined to date is the latest model I am working on is the Educational horizontal engine ( similar to simple steamboat engine ) & the front & rear frames are 13-3/8" ( 339.72mm ) long which I have rounded up to 340 mm, so with the working surface of the table being 700mm long I doubt if I will ever get to use the other 150mm available at ea. end ( taking into account length of DRO )

The other way is to fit a one shot lube system onto your machine…if you're feeling flush, so all the slides & lead screws are lub'ed in one go once/twice a week … depending on usage.

**LINK** Usual disclaimer.

or… **LINK**

George.

[oldveloParticipant @oldvelo]

Hi

Taper Roller Bearings is the best option But you need to some modifications to spacers as the sizes are different

Standard bearing is 62 x 30 x 16 Taper Roller is 62 x 30 x 17.25.

The very close second is Angular Contact Bearings.

Original bearings are only just adequate for the job

Ketan I know will not use any forum to advertise his expertise.

Myself not having any connection at all with this company and only know of the excellent reputation through the writings of other and my reading across several forums.

Got to this link and all the information for bearing replacement is available

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/C3_BC/pages/index.html

or this link can be useful

http://www.toolsandmods.com/lathe/mini-lathe-headstock

I hope you don not "Black List" me for this post Neil just trying to get good info to a fellow Model Engineer.

Eric

[CotswoldsPhilParticipant @cotswoldsphil]

Hello David and welcome,

I have been using an R8 spindle mill (Naerok) for a number of years with just 4 * R8 collets (imperial in my case); no need for an ER chuck + collets to start with, link ArcEuro – 4 piece collet set – 6,10,12 & 16 @ £16.33, they grip end-mills very well, and take up less headroom.

An R8 adapter for slitting saws would extend your capability, not sure if the machine is delivered with a drill chuck,

Phil

Edited By CotswoldsPhil on 31/03/2015 19:57:06

[David Brown 9Participant @davidbrown9]

I am planning on buying a Sieg SX2 Plus min mill from Arc Euro Trade (R8.) Which tools do I need? I am planning to buy their tilting vice.

ER Collets seem to be recomended, but which size? I can't buy too much straight away as there won't be that much money left!

I am planning to make things out of mainly aluminium, possibly occasionally steel, maybe stainless, mostly small parts for tescopes. Which cutters would be best? I only have a drill press, router and plunge saw at the moment so I have a lot to learn!

David

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Posted by Rik Shaw on 31/03/2015 13:30:41:

Its .377" diameter and my thread gauge tells me its 13 TPI. I have searched through all my data books but cannot find any reference to a thread of this size. A special of some sort I s'pose but for what I wonder?

Rik

Now try a 2mm pitch gauge on it. Chances are it's 10mm x 2

But if you only have one 12" length, never used it, rusty, chances are you never will then bin it.

In fact why am I even answering this post?

Letters on the back of a £4.00 note to Ketan at Arceuro [ might get me four quid back then. ]

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Dont forget –

?100 + use CR card and if goods dont arrive or faulty try to contact vendor first then its “Section 75” action with card issuer.
Under ?100 use DR card. If it goes wrong follow above but NOT S75 this time its chargeback.
In all cases you are entitled to postage paid on the order and free return postage. Ask for free postage label.
You have 6 months to find out goods were inherently faulty and for vendor to try and disprove. After 6 months its your problem to get goods tested to prove vendor sold faulty goods. BUT if proved faulty after 6 months you are entitled to cost of testing to be refunded by vendor.
Admittedly most of this refers to electronics/ computers but it could apply to say a dodgy boiler or useless pumps or injectors or pressure gauges.
Far Eastern lathes and mills and their motors and circuit boards should also be covered by these rules.
“Distance Selling Regulations” have slightly different rules to that of personal purchasing visits to shops or warehouses
Having said all above its nice to see fair traders mentioned especially with long established ME outfits like ArcEuro, Blackgates, GLR, Reeves Maccmodels, College Eng., Noggin and many more.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Savinay,

Remove the black caps on either side of the motor and remove the brushes.

Take the end cap off the motor and clean the commutator carefully with particular attention to any dust between the segments.

If the brushes look worn down compared to this

Then buy C3-150-MB Motor Brushes (Pair) from http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C3-Mini-Lathe-Spares

Neil

[CotswoldsPhilParticipant @cotswoldsphil]

I'm waiting for a delivery from ArcEuro so have time to burn!

I'm finding this thread quite informative as I've never done any indexing above the number of spokes on my Minnie's wheels – so far.

A method I remember from ME many years ago (using readily available components) is to wrap a length of bandsaw blade with the appropriate number of teeth, around a disk of plywood, it would be MDF today, and index on the teeth. Clearly getting the joint/overlap accurate is important but perfectly do-able. Improved accuracy could be achieved by using multiples of the required final number and indexing accordingly. Also, would it be possible to starting indexing between 90deg and 270deg (the joint being at 0deg) and then resetting for the second half so as to avoid the overlap?

Regards

Phil

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

I totaly agree with Dave's suggested test and his diagnosis that the switch is the fault. The fault on the switch is an intermittent contact on one pole of the switch when it is in the forward position. This may not show up on your meter. The switch C2-181 that Arceurotrade sell for the Seig C2 lathe may be the same as the one on your lathe and they show them as in stock.

Les.

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

Hi Emgee, Thanks for the reply – Back to the drawing board then.

Perhaps I should persevere with Martin's gear box idea.

I've been looking through the C2 lathe spares on the ArcEuro site and I think that a plastic geared version using C2 change gears and a re-purposed timing belt may be the way to go.

I have a spare 20 tooth Myford gear for the output drive to the dropped banjo.

Any thoughts on the strength of the plastic gears in this application? If I need metal gears where should they go, input train or output?

Jon