Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Keith Moat on 06/05/2018 11:12:31:

JasonB, the speed ranges I have now are 30-800 low and 60-1800 high (top end of those ranges vary a bit) and the motor seems to want to take teeth off the drive belt rather than stall as I found out when the tool dug in once. I didn't think about cooling, my motor has a fan on the back and as the speed range should be somewhere in between my current setup I think it should cope.

Neil, great book btw, it gave me a good insight into what to expect with my new lathe, before reading it I thought these mini lathes would work great straight out of the box and your book showed how easy it is to improve them. I'll give it a go in the near future, I think Arc Euro Trade sell all the bits I need.

I think my main hobby now is tinkering with the lathe, I'm not sure if I want to turn anything really

Hi Keith,

Please be careful if you are tinkering with your specific lathe. The Warco Super Mini Lathe is NOT from SIEG.

SIEGs brushless mini-lathe is belt drive, with 500w output power, without any hi/low gears.

Warcos is 450w brushless motor – but hopefully, chances are they mean input power rather than output power, in line with their traditional way of stating things. In which case, the output power is likely to be lower than 450w, and the torque is controlled more by the high lower gear arrangement – which i hope you understand.

In SIEGs case, the torque is controlled by programming of a chip on the control board. I have no idea how it is in Warcos case. In Warcos case, it suggests all metal gears,.. so basically no failsafe if you jam a tool. Hopefully you only strip a belt, rather than damage a control board. Also, this is combined with a permanent 100mm chuck as standard, balanced over a small headstock casting distance assembly. Personally, I believe that this idea is wrong, and I don't say this because ARC is a competitor.

Yes, ARC sells metal gears and 100mm chuck/backplate as optional accessories, and yes, people do buy and fit all of this, but I personally believe that these things start to make the make the machine work outside the envelope of what they were safely designed for.. slowly removing the failsafes by changing to metal everything and bigger chucks.

So, in your case, I sincerely hope that your brushless motors input power is 450w, and its output power is much lower, for safety reasons. Also, I would suggest that you avoid trying to tweak anything. In any case, if you are wanting to consider removing the hi/low gears, opting instead for direct belt drive with the existing motor, chances are that 'at a guess' that you will loose torque somewhere – at high, middle, low end, especially if the brushless motor is of lower input wattage, resulting in a lower output wattage… if that makes sense?.

Ketan at ARC.

[Keith MoatParticipant @keithmoat36026]

Thanks guys for the "brushless" education, I thought it was one word, but my spell checker keeps saying otherwise.

Thanks for the links Thor, my lathe is on a little bench in my garage where there's no room to strap a huge motor on the back (unless I leave the garage window open) and I'd like to keep it portable, so those are a bit OTT for me. I think the torque should be somewhere in between mt current High/Low setup, more torque than high and less than low if I'm correct.

JasonB, the speed ranges I have now are 30-800 low and 60-1800 high (top end of those ranges vary a bit) and the motor seems to want to take teeth off the drive belt rather than stall as I found out when the tool dug in once. I didn't think about cooling, my motor has a fan on the back and as the speed range should be somewhere in between my current setup I think it should cope.

Neil, great book btw, it gave me a good insight into what to expect with my new lathe, before reading it I thought these mini lathes would work great straight out of the box and your book showed how easy it is to improve them. I'll give it a go in the near future, I think Arc Euro Trade sell all the bits I need.

I think my main hobby now is tinkering with the lathe, I'm not sure if I want to turn anything really

[TiddlerTadParticipant @tiddlertad]

Hi

I am hoping to purchase a hex Stevensons ER25 collet block from ArcEuroTrade, but need to make sure my vice is big enough to hold it. The inside walls of my vice are 30mm high. Can anyone advise how much of a gap there is at the bottom of the block when two side faces are horizontal?

I did emeil Arc, but no reply so far.

Many thanks

Andrew

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

John M,

I think the Chester machine you linked to with 460×120 table is like to be SIEG X2L as in this link, rather than the original X2 base, which is different.

If so, then you will probably need the column which fits on the SX2LF machine Part SX2LF-53.

However, the mounting holes for the column on the base of your machine may or may not be the same, as the mounting holes on your machine are designed for the tilting column casting to fit on it, where as the mounting holes on the fixed column are designed to fit directly to the base of a fixed base design. If this is what you find, then you may have to make an adapter plate to deal with this. We have not come across the SIEG X2L machine, so we are unable to guide on this.

Ketan at ARC.

[John Murphy 3Participant @johnmurphy3]

Hello everyone. Im just after buying a secondhand chester mini mill (x2).could anyone be able to answer a few questions I have with this mill? Its an x2 mill with a tilting column. Has a gas strut, 130mm x 300m travel. The motor is a 350w version with a xmt 2335 control board.

1. Can the solid column sold by arceurotrade be a direct swap or will the dovetails need machining to fit. Or would I be better off just making up a bracket to lock the column and brace it.

2. Is it true the 350w is hobbled by the control board so it won’t break the gears. If so are there mods that can be done to get the the full power for the motor.

I’m planning to get a belt conversion.

I’m mainly going to be using the mill for motorcycle stuff. So I’d like to be able to fly cut and hopefully be able to make 1mm DOC in steel.

[Another JohnSParticipant @anotherjohns]

Posted by Neil Lickfold on 03/05/2018 20:38:57:

The link to show how he did the lube grooves etc does not work for me.

Story time first:

If it is my pictures – I took them off that site – I found someone using some stuff on there to help sell some specific parts for a KX1 CNC – without any acknowledgement, when asked (in person) the response was "some guy posted it on the Internet" – fair enough, but, at least he could have given me a "thanks" when I told him that it was me, all I got was a "huh" and he turned away. Oh well, I guess we all loose. (No, not Arc Eurotrade, just FYI)

Ok:

There's lots of people doing this for CNCing mills like ours. I used a straight (non-ball) end mill, as that's what my KX1 has. lightly scraped the edges of the grooves to remove burrs. I also just used pushbutton oilers, ordered from Arc (usual disclaimer).

You want the "facing up" surfaces to have a groove in them. Some zig-zag about, me, I just cut a straight groove down the middle, with 3 cross grooves (one each end, one in the middle). Drill a hole in the side of the casting for the oil pushbutton, and cross-drill down from a groove to intersect this oil-pushbutton hole. This is exactly like my KX1, so I'm not pretending to be a brainiac here.

I congratulate Neil on his efforts; there's many ways to skin a cat; I did it quickly and simply, he did it properly!

Now, all I have to do is to get off this d**n computer (and, stop paid work again) and get downstairs and use the machines!

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

As others have mentioned I too have never had cutters move when using ER collets. It has happened to me when using MT collets. I have used Weldon end mill holders like these, and they have worked well for roughing.

Thor

[Dave MartinParticipant @davemartin29320]

Posted by Daniel on 28/04/2018 07:21:49:

Hello All,

Browsing through RDG's site, I see that they offer polishing/buffing mops in either white or yellow.

The product description makes no difference between the two.

Does anyone know if there is a difference ?…

Daniel, although the underlying material and dimensions are the same, there is a subtle distinction in the description in the advertisement. They describe the yellow ones as "Impregnated and especially stiff. For preliminary…." and the white ones as " soft ….For high shine polishing ….Adapts to the workpiece contour. "

Re Michael's comment about using colour-coding to distinguish between grades of polishing compound, you would almost certainly use different grades with the these two wheels. I actually use more grades, and more wheel types including sisal to start sometimes, so I use a 'sharpie' to mark each wheel as to what compound I use it with.

I have no connection with any vendor, I personally buy mine from the range sold by Caswell UK, they also have a useful guide to buffing and polishing, including wheels and compounds.

Edited By Dave Martin on 28/04/2018 09:28:06

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by STK2008 on 24/04/2018 20:16:33:

Would a set of these be better to move the quill up and down on rather than my engineers square?

**LINK**

.

It's impossible to answer that meaningfully, without knowing the accuracy of your square.

But, I can see no reason to expect them to be any more accurate than a decent test square.

… is their squareness specified ?

Schlesinger illustrates the use of a square, and mentions in the text that it should be clamped to the table.

In general terms, I believe your test method is correct.

Checking the square; clamping it to the table; and improving the rigidity of your indicator-mount would all improve confidence in your results though.

MichaelG.

.

[STK2008Participant @stk2008]

Ok then did what I think Warco meant and made no diff.

I redid my test when I ran the DTI up and down the Z column just to see if the spindle spun it realy does not its to stiff for it to rotate etc plus as you can see the DTI returns to zero every time if the spindle had spun it would read some thing else.

 

I am slowly loosing the will to live I have spent 3 days on this and every test I do all be it not 100% the best gives same sort of results.

 

I did what mgnbuk

Believe it or not I got 0.001" so nothing so the quill is square in the casting so to speak.

So only thing it can be is the head not sitting on the Z axis square front to back? off course this is ok left to right as I can tilt the head but not nod.

 

In the videos its off that much the verdict actually leaves the surface completly.

**LINK**

**LINK**

in both these tests the spindle did not spin.

I can only think of a few things that would cause such an issue.

 

A . Head not correctly seated on Z axis piller

B. Quill on the pee (but seems ok)

 

Would a set of these be better to move the quill up and down on rather than my engineers square?

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Vee-Blocks-Angle-Plates/Stevensons-Metric-Blocks

 

Edited By STK2008 on 24/04/2018 20:41:40

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by David Taylor 4 on 19/04/2018 03:31:37:

Looky here!

Just received issue 4579 by way of Hungary. It may have travel the eastern route to Canada via Asia and across the Pacific, across Canada to Montreal and back to me in BC.

A frustrating situation to which ME have offered no solution. Not good.

David,

It may seem bewildering in Canada, but the movement of goods across Europe for grouping before intercontinental transport is the way European systems work. It's not unknown for UK-UK parcels to travel via the European mainland sometimes. Places like Hungary and Poland are not uncivilised backwaters…

We have looked into this an the delays are squarely with Canada Post, not with getting the magazines to Canada.

[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

We have purchased several sets of bearings from Arc, some for machine use, some for light duties in telescope mounts, no problems..

**LINK**

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

We don't accept payment for reviews, although the reviewer often (but not always) gets to keep the kit.

Our policy is that if the kit isn't up to an acceptable standard we don't run the review – no point in featuring substandard kit. If it has less serious problems/issues we mention this in the review. We give feedback to the suppliers.

The things featured as 'Trade News' may or may not have been seen first hand by us, and generally haven't had a full test unless we say so. These aren't paid 'advertorial', though.

I haven't ever reviewed anything I don't still use; one or two things I have found niggling issues with over time, most actually go up in my estimation as I get used to them.

For example the die-chasers using coventry die head inserts I tried do exactly what they are supposed to do, but I must confess I have found them rather fiddly to use. On the other hand an entry level airbrush/compressor combo has proven really good to use with more practice and I've surprised myself with the results I can get. The same goes for carbide insert parting tools – the more I use them the 'better' they (or I) get.

Sometimes early reviews are early road-tests of kit and show up issues – sometimes we get asked to test kit but not review it but just provide feedback to the seller. I've had an example of this on test for a year or so and gradually my most of my initial reservations have disappeared.

If we find an issue we do give the supplier a chance to put it right; our current Super 7 DRO review (continued in the next issue) highlighted some minor issues which have been addressed by the supplier.

Jason and I have been upfront that the kit we are using for the two beginners series has been supplied by Arc Euro, but we aren't 'reviewing' it as such. This is an exceptional sponsorship arrangement (each part is clearly flagged as 'sponsored by Arc&#39 that took a good while to set up and very much aimed at generating some very specific content. That said I have genuinely high opinion of the SC4-510 lathe, the only issues with it are trivial cosmetic issues (paint flaking in a couple of spots and a not-very-sticky-sticker).

Neil

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I use CR2032's, usually from ArcEuro ( usual disclaimer ) & they usually last most of the year, I last changed mine approx' Sept / Oct last year & its' still going well. I've just change the batteries in my DRO remote read outs & they've been in since last year. As with all my digi stuff I make sure everything is switched off. I am awaiting CR2032, 2 x 5 packs from China , off eBay, cheap as… so will see how they perform.

George.

[James AParticipant @jamesalford67616]

Michael W,

I bought a collet chuck from Arc Euro and needed to make a back plate for my lathe. This thread covers it and might help. I had real trouble getting rid of run-out initially, but it was my technique and skill, not the collet chuck at fault. I did get run-out down to 0.0005", a mere flicker on the needle.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=120081&p=2

James.

[Nick HulmeParticipant @nickhulme30114]

He could have started out by lobbing a nice big chunk of known, free machining round stock in the chuck, carefully machining and checking a taper plug to fit the collet chuck taper properly (blue & all that to check fit). Drilling and tapping the centre of the plug would then allow him to clamp the chuck on a known true & central taper to indicate, and if required, machine the rear face and register (the only bits that matter).

It looks like he "Cheaped Out" on his initial purchase, should have gone to specsavers, better still Arc Eurotrade who do a nice ER40 lathe chuck. 

Edited By Nick Hulme on 14/04/2018 11:46:29

[clivelParticipant @clivel]

Yesterday I also received ME issues 4582 and 4583 together. No sign of 76,77,78,79, or 81 yet. I also received MEW 266 at the beginning of the week, but still no sign of 264 or 265.

I also have not yet received the ME replacement issues 4576,77,78 & 79 that were sent on March 14th but hopefully those will get here soon.

It is odd that both John and myself in Canada and Raymond in Australia all received issues 4582 and 4583 simultaneously and on the same day, this would indicate that there is some sort of problem on the MyTime Media side.

On the other hand I have not received any issues of EIM since the 5th of Jan, not even the replacement issue that they sent me on March 5th. Which would indicate a problem with Canada Post unless of course EIM also use Air Business for their overseas fulfillment in which case we can point the finger of blame directly at Air Business.

Either way Canada Post are not blameless, because neither MyTime-Media nor Air-Business have had anything to do with the now 7 items of mail I am still missing from various places in Europe.

So, it seems to me, that Canadian subscribers have been hit by the unfortunate coincidence of problems at MyTime-Media/Air-Business and Canada Post simultaneously.
It is frustrating.
Clive

[VicParticipant @vic]

Did anyone mention bearing nuts? Much nicer to use, I have them on my lathe and mill.

**LINK**

[richardandtracyParticipant @richardandtracy]

One of the cheaper places to get a DRO seems to be Arc, **LINK**

Never been convinced that I'll get an answer I can understand from most of the E-Bay sellers of such things.

Regards

Richard

Edited By richardandtracy on 10/04/2018 15:10:27

[Jon CameronParticipant @joncameron26580]

I dont know if i can get another photo, feel cheeky to ask since its all for nowt. All I've been told is that the board says 2335. When I have a Google it sends me to arc Euro for a C3 lathe. After not getting a definative answer by googling all I can surmise is that the board is the same as the C3 but just wanted to double check if someone knew for certain on here.

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Hello Martyn,

There are perfectly satisfactory alternatives to the use of 127 tooth gears for conversion to metric pitches. You would struggle to fit one to your size lathe anyway.

One of these is the combo 63/80 which I suspect will be rather large for a Myford ML4, the other is much more suitably sized at 37/47 that has an error value of 1.7 mm in 10 metres of thread.

Without trying to influence you one way or another, the subject of lathe gearing is of particular interest to me and you might find my book published last year helpful. Arc Euro sell it at £12.50 plus postage. Myford series lathes are covered in some depth with all the charts you could wish for but there is much else of general interest as well.

The title is Gearing of Lathes for Screwcutting by Brian Wood ISBN 978-1-78500-250-2

Kind regards

Brian

 

Edited By Brian Wood on 09/04/2018 15:27:23

[HncladParticipant @hnclad]

Hi To answer your question Joe the motor was wired as bipolar series. The phase connection being the terminal ends of the coils were connected to the A+/A- and B+/B-. The centre taps of the coils were connected separately for each pair of coils and insulated. The 18vdc was connected to the appropriate terminals on the driver. That's pretty straight forward. The step/pin8 was connected to pulse+ connection and the dir./pin9 was connected to the dir. connection. Pulse- and Dir.- were connected to pin 20/gnd. There was no 5volt connection. I am creating an album so I can upload photos of this set up and data sheets etc. but please be patient. This is a busy time for me. The weather is perfect for felling dead and dying trees that me and the wife marked last year. After felling they have to be bucked into fire wood lengths, split and piled for drying for next winters fire. It doesn't leave much time for me to get in the workshop or on the computer.

I should explain how I got to this point. 5 years ago I started construction on Wildings Elegant Skeleton Clock, I came across a construction of a cnc. set up for a dividing head, this included the software to run it. The constructor had used a circuit board which he modified, I was interested in the project but was too busy with the clock to start soldering a board. Another amateur clock maker had built the project using a motor and driver from Arc Euro and said it worked fine. I visited their site saw they had a motor and driver on sale and bought them knowing absolutely nothing about stepper motors or drivers. Fools rush in etc.The original constructor used a unipolar motor out of a photo copier so I though I should use a the motor I had in that configuration but quickly realized I couldn't mix 2 power sources. I also realized that 18 to 50 volts was a high voltage for a driver circuit board so it must also run the motor. I was stuck, so since I had already paired the centre taps I would insulate them switch on the 18v. power and see what happened. The motor turned and I was elated. But, when I cut my first wheel/gear the last tooth was very thin and other teeth seemed thinner than they should be. My notes from that time didn't record what settings I used for the steps but I pretty much tried all of them. I never solved the problem and anxious to move on with the clock I put the parts in a box, in corner. Although I moved on I never forgot about the project and when I joined this forum recently I thought I was a good opportunity to see if I could solve it.

Hope this explains things a little better.

Regards David.

[DuncParticipant @dunc]

The Cobalt 60 story here:

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjBqZzW3araAhXi8YMKHQ1KC60QFgg7MAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.independent.co.uk%2Fnews%2Fworld%2Feurope%2Fstolen-radioactive-cobalt-60-shipment-found-in-mexico-had-been-opened-8989656.html&usg=AOvVaw0FEKUGX3asxb0PVBJrEvuv

There is also an intriguing story from the 90's "The Radioactive Boy Scout" who had dreams of building his own nuclear reactor. Didn't have any sense of the danger. A US "something to do with nuclear safety" agency had to remove a lot of contaminated material. More here:

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiO6J7s3qraAhXn64MKHVX5ArcQFggpMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FDavid_Hahn&usg=AOvVaw1prgL_mpf3wz-WiCntljUx

[Gas_mantle.Participant @gas_mantle]

Jason you've raised an interesting point here that I wasn't aware of. My machine is similar to the one the original poster is buying and when I bought it the advice was to buy ER25 collets (which I did). I just assumed that the MT2 spindle wouldn't take ER32 but having just looked at Arceuro it seems I can use ER32.

I'm looking at buying ER32 to use on my lathe so I wish I'd known from the onset that my mill will take ER32.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You want a 32 weight oil for the head, get Warco to add a can to the order then you should be able to get that put on the same delivery and save postage costs.

68 Weight oil for the Oil points, I think Warco do it but can't see it at the moment but something like this from ARC will do the job, they also do 32 weight.

You say you will order a few "bits" have you ordered tooling for the two machines as you won't be able to do a lot with them when they turn up without it so could loose another week waiting for that to arrive.

 

J

Edited By JasonB on 07/04/2018 07:34:33