Search Results for 'arc euro'

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Ronan try this…

… [email protected]

George.

[ronan walshParticipant @ronanwalsh98054]

Hello

Does anyone have a direct email address for Arc euro trade please ? I am attempting to contatct them via their silly online form and it does not work. A direct email would help.

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

Posted by JasonB on 04/06/2018 09:00:57:

There is also this one on the Mini-Lathe by some bloke called Neil.

You could also take out a Subscription and follows the "lathework for beginners" series in MEW

Edited By JasonB on 04/06/2018 09:02:36

And you get the milling for beginners for free !

There are also a couple books from the workshop practise series as well as Niels one but for a start especially as you want to focus on the mini lathe his book is where i would recommend you start as it will allow you get familiarised whith your lathe and not a machine from yesteryear .

once you get the hang of it the offerings by Sparey and Westbury will will become top of the list of books to have .

Hey Jason any books in the pipeline ?

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Martin,

Join the club! What you did, I have done several times over the years, hence I possess a number of the roll up type steel rules. I had a very nice Birthday pressie a few years back in the form of a Mitutoyo elec. caliper which I lost last Autumn. After buying an el cheapo replacement from Arceuro in Jan.?, the Mitty reappeared having fallen out of sight in my indoor toolstore. Grrr! The ArcEuro one is different in having fractions which I'm not bothered about but I quite like it and often use it. I just try hard to be methodical with having one drawer for my Allen key collection. All my hammers and mallet in one place. Main thing is to clear up and put things back where they belong and not in a temporary place which one promptly forgets!

John

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

There is also this one on the Mini-Lathe by some bloke called Neil.

You could also take out a Subscription and follows the "lathework for beginners" series in MEW

Edited By JasonB on 04/06/2018 09:02:36

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

We live in strange times. Negative interest rates aren't unusual on large deposits and the policy is marching down towards small investors across the world.

Banks don't pay to borrow money – you pay them to look after it. First done by Denmark in 2014 followed swiftly by several other European Central Banks including Germany. Then much more aggressively by Japan in 2016. Switzerland and Sweden joined the club in 2017. Been seriously considered In the US but not tried so far, their version is to sell Government Bonds for more than the return value, and yes they sell like hot-cakes. Why? Because stocks and shares are risky and trade difficult to predict. I doubt Wesfarmers planned to sell Homebase for a quid last month!

The idea of negative interest rates is to push money into the economy by encouraging spending rather than saving. It's a desperate tactic to unstick a difficult economic situation. Not much sign it's working, just hope it does!

Dave

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 31/05/2018 13:51:12:

We tend to trust vendors – for example – I don't think ArcEuroTrade say what the spec of their HSS tooling is. Whatever it is, I've found it acceptable – it does exactly what I expect of it, perhaps because Ketan makes good choices, as do other established vendors I've bought from. When I wreck a tool it's usually my fault. It's always tempting to pick up bargains at shows, second-hand, or on the web, but the chances of getting something unsuitable shoot up. There's a good chance you're taking a gamble with an unknown HSS that the seller doesn't understand either. It might be excellent for what you want, or it might be a failure. You can't generalise from the experience unless you know what you bought.

Dave

Most of the HSS blanks we sell at present are equivalent to M2. We do not specify M2 for these blanks because there are miner differences between the product we sell and the defined specification of M2. For ARC, the disappointment rate is gaged in 'returns' – which is about 1 in 30. We have been buying this from the same source for about 12 years. We have started selling some M35 blanks (different source) during the past two years, and we have various parting off blades in specifications equivalent to M2, M35 (5% Cobalt) and M42 (8% Cobalt). The M35 and M42 for certain parting off blades were introduced after some experiments which were conducted by me (based on guidance from the late JS), especially for the thinner smaller width/tapered blades. More products may be introduced in this range within the next six months.

Ketan at ARC.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

'Old-stuff better than new', 'western superior to far eastern', and 'my favourite brand-name'. Dare I suggest none of these notions are truths, and they might even be misleading?

HSS isn't a single thing and discussing 'quality' without specification is tap dancing on thin ice. Qualified engineers don't do it. There are at least eight different grades of HSS in common use. Their properties vary to make them fit for a particular purpose; hardness, heat and wear resistance, elasticity, ability to hold an edge etc. The type used to make sharp woodworking tools isn't ideal for metalwork. The type used to make twist-drills isn't ideal for making lathe knives. The type used on brass isn't ideal on stainless. And vice versa. Yes there are cheap grades, yes there are expensive grades, yes there are fakes, but mostly there are misunderstandings! HSS made in 1968 has no special magic making it superior to anything you can buy today.

Another little problem is how your HSS was heat-treated. Sometimes HSS is supplied hardened, other times annealed, ie soft. Same metal, same 'quality', entirely different properties.

As buying and using HSS is complicated, (it's easily overheated) human nature tends to fall back on experience. It's not daft for David S to buy new old stock because he knows what it is; it is daft to think the Chinese can't make M42 today.

We tend to trust vendors – for example – I don't think ArcEuroTrade say what the spec of their HSS tooling is. Whatever it is, I've found it acceptable – it does exactly what I expect of it, perhaps because Ketan makes good choices, as do other established vendors I've bought from. When I wreck a tool it's usually my fault. It's always tempting to pick up bargains at shows, second-hand, or on the web, but the chances of getting something unsuitable shoot up. There's a good chance you're taking a gamble with an unknown HSS that the seller doesn't understand either. It might be excellent for what you want, or it might be a failure. You can't generalise from the experience unless you know what you bought.

Dave

[NigeParticipant @nige81730]

Today my wife and I took a trip to Arceurotrade to have a chat with Keatan. I ordered myself the current Sieg SC4 lathe bundle and the SX2.7 milling machine and stand. Came away a very happy bunny and spent the afternoon sorting the workshop to make sure all will fit in the spaces I have planned. Required a bit of shifting of stuff around but it will all fit in the end

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

Try Mcmaster Carr or Cromwell tools, both industrial suppliers so one can assume their HSS is what it says, or Arc Eurotrade?

Tony

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

ARC euro trade catalogue has the tapers listed "for reference". Set your top slide with a sine bar and you are good to go.

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

It’s original known for being an ‘Andrews’ brand – part of INA – mainly for the USA market. Not a standard or popular type/size in U.K..

Clive’s idea link for Nachi made from Europe seems to be okay if it is cheaper than the U.S. source. Local U.K. bearing factors will phone around / check their supplier sites and give you prices too, but I think they will be high considering the unique size reference.

Ketan at ARC

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Arc Euro, Ketan is a bearing expert.

[clivelParticipant @clivel]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 23/05/2018 20:33:26:

So you haven't noticed the 'Item location' filter with the choice of Distance from postcode, UK, European Union and Worldwide…

Thanks Neil, I had,
However my choices are Distance from Postcode, Canada, North America, and Worldwide.

And as most of what I search for is sourced from the UK, USA or occasionally Japan, Worldwide is the only practical choice.
It would be great if eBay had the option to exclude some countries.

Clive

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by clivel on 23/05/2018 18:13:55:

Now if only I could find a way to exclude the hundreds and hundreds of items from China that overwhelm when searching for things on eBay.

Clive

So you haven't noticed the 'Item location' filter with the choice of Distance from postcode, UK, European Union and Worldwide…

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

We all love a good bargain.

A month ago, I was shopping for a particular brand jacket and wellingtons. Putting in the brand name with the word discount code in the search engine, revealed several voucher code sites. Some sites said 'no code available', some asked me to put in my email address for future notification (which I didn't), and some provided discount codes. I did try out the codes mentioned on some of the voucher sites, and one or two worked on the wellingtons site, but non on the jackets site.

I must admit that I did not think much of it at the time, until last week when similar search results came up for Arc Euro Trade discount code search… which don't exist. So, if one is lucky to find a genuine discount code, that is great, but if you put in your email address into such voucher code sites, it is difficult to know how your email will be used after harvesting.

Ketan at ARC.

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Recently, ARC has been alerted to discount code/voucher websites being used to give the impression that there are discount codes available for use on ARCs website.

However, such discount codes do not exist, and if one was to click on a link on such a site, it will deliver results such as 'no code required', or it may ask you to submit your email address. We believe that this may be a method to harvest your email address, and we suggest that you avoid the use of such sites.

If ARC was to issue a discount code, this would be advised only by us to members who have subscribed to our newsletter mailing list, or though an advert placed by us in Model Engineers Workshop magazine.

ARC has no association with discount code/voucher websites, even though they might give the impression by the use of our logo.

The reason for posting this is that ARC had a call from a customer who was extremely upset for being unable to use a code which did not exist. By bringing this to everyone's attention, it is hoped that we can avoid upsetting other customers.

We have contacted various voucher code websites to try and get them to remove references to Arc from their sites. We wait and see if this has any effect.

Here is a screen shot example of google search result for 'Arc Euro Trade discount code' :

In some cases, such sites will ask you for your email address as a method of harvesting, as per example below:

Again, this has nothing to do with Arc Euro Trade Ltd.

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 22/05/2018 17:44:22

[martin ranson 2Participant @martinranson2]

TO ADY 1 and ROBIN please … for the preload I ended up with a very light preload … I did try lots of pressure as well but the cut was just as good lightly loaded … I clamped the circular nut as hard as possible by hand, then used a small hammer and a flat ended punch to move it about 1/16 of a turn … this was suggested by one the replies above, I believe … if I had to guess at the reading on a torque wrench it would be 20 or 30 foot pounds … not much … the bearing came from Arc Euro Trade, cost £16. 99 and has a code number 30207 … when I get the other bearing off I will be able to see if it has the same code number … that I.D. mark is facing the chuck backplate, but it does look the same.

I look forward to seeing how long this bearing lasts … I shall try to remember to keep checking diameters on a test bar over the years … just to make sure about the taper.

Thank you all, martin

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

If only someone wrote a guide for MEW

From my series sponsored by Arc Euro Trade, for the pictures see MEW 264:

Insert Codes

There is a standard code for describing inserts, typically four letters followed by a number. The full code is too complex to detail here, so as an example let’s look at a typical insert that suits smaller lathes: CCGT 060204, photo 9:

Shape – C: 80-degree diamond, this give a well-supported tip that can work into a 90-degree corner. Some other useful shapes are S – square as shown in photo 6; R – round; T – equilateral triangle and V – a long-thin diamond shaped tool intended for CNC profile turning but useful for delicate work.

Clearance – C: 7-degrees; a good compromise between good support for the cutting edge and ample clearance.

Tolerance – G: This is the tolerance of various measurements of the insert. The tolerance letter can be confusing as the tolerance reflects other properties of the insert. The two you are most likely to encounter are G and M. M is a general use moulded insert, while G is ground further into specific shape (e.g. Top rake for additional tolerance for specific application, and so will cost more than the M moulded inserts. Both types are available coated for better wearing properties, or un-coated or polished for the G type. In the hobby environment, M type are generally used for machining of steel, stainless steel and cast iron. The polished G type with ground edges, are ideal for cutting aluminium, brass and other non-ferrous metals.

Hole/Chipbreaker – T: A 40-60-degree double countersunk hole (it has to match the screw used by your toolholder) and a single-sided chipbreaker.

Cutting edge length – 06: 6 millimetres, in this case one side of our diamond.

Thickness – 02: This is 3/32” or 2.38mm.

Corner radius – 04: In this case 0.4mm. For hobby machines corner or nose radius of 04 – 0.4mm (for finishing) or 08 – 0.8mm (for general use) are suggested. Finer radius than this, such as 00 – sharp point, 01 – 0.1mm and 02 – 0.2mm should generally be avoided as they are more suited for use at very high speeds on industrial CNC machines with high rigidity. If used on hobby machines, such inserts are more likely to chip easily.

Toolholder Codes

Some, but not all, the codes used for inserts are used for toolholders, in particular a simpler scheme is used for the clamping method.

Photograph 10 shows the codes on the SCLC-R1010E06 and SCLC-L 1010E06 toolholders we saw in photo 5. These toolholder codes break down as:

Clamping method – S: A screw fitting, other styles are various types of clamp and pin.

Shape – C: 80-degree diamond, this matches up to the tip code.

Holder style – L: This is the way the toolholder presents its cutting edge to the work. An ‘L’ toolholder essentially offers the 80-degree insert so it can cut freely into a 90-degree corner. Unlike the knife tool this gives an ideal geometry for both turning and facing with the same tool, which is why this style of toolholder is so popular.

Clearance angle – C: 7 degrees, again this matches the insert.

Handedness – L or R: clearly left or right, there are also N or neutral toolholders, photo x.

Height and width of shank – 1010: the shank of the tool is 10mm by 10mm, this suits the SC4 510, 0808 shank (8mm) toolholders work well with mini-lathes.

Length of holder – E: 70mm, this is rarely critical but shorter holders suit smaller lathes and longer holders can be ‘overhung’ to extend their reach. A is very short (32mm) and Q is 250mm, so if your chosen size is not available a letter up or down will usually work.

Cutting edge length in mm 06 – 6 millimetres, this must match the insert.

The shape, hole, cutting edge length and clearance are matched to the toolholder, but it is usually possible to use inserts with different tolerances, corner radiuses and even thicknesses in the same toolholder.

Inserts are sometimes sold without the corner radius being specified. It is worth checking as smaller numbers are suitable for machining fine work and sharp internal corners, while a larger corner radius makes it easier to get a good finish and leaves a distinct fillet in a corner.

It is also possible to get carbide inserts with a ‘wiper tip’, this is the equivalent of an HSS tool with the tip stoned to have a small flat on it, and gives an excellent surface finish.

[richardandtracyParticipant @richardandtracy]

Posted by Will Noble on 17/05/2018 08:22:55:

…Now there are dozens and dozens, some VERY cheap and probably VERY poor durability….

I have to confess I have not had poor durability from my ones, but I admit it is the luck of the draw whether you get an insert with the tool that's suitable for the job in hand. This thread: **LINK** showed the dramatic effect of correct & incorrect inserts in use in the same tool. In one case the face mill was unusable, and in the other it worked like a dream. You could be mistaken in putting the whole blame down to a poor tool, when it's just unsuitable inserts.

Part of the problem is that more choice gives the opportunity to make more bad choices, and it's up to us to learn enough to make good ones instead.

You wouldn't do to badly to look at MEW of the last couple of months where (for lathe tools) Neil went through the nomenclature of ones suitable for use on smaller machines. Failing that, look at the ArcEurotrade range that's up for sale. The Arc ones are probably all Chinese made, and look similar or identical to the ones available on E-bay, and none the worse for it. I am pretty convinced China is passing out of the 'make it – regardless of quality' phase and into the 'trying to increase quality and make durable items' phase. Same as Japan & S Korea did in the past. I think we're at the relatively short point where quality is good enough and price is still low that both Japan and S Korea showed 40 and 20 years ago respectively. Blink & you'll miss it…

Regards,

Richard.

[martin ranson 2Participant @martinranson2]

Wow … I am always amazed at the depth of knowledge of the Model Engineer readership … 6 replies and all aiming straight at possible causes … thank you all.

MICHAEL … I have the original handbook for the lathe … the headstock assembly is not shown … everything else is !

BRIAN … the long Allen key is a very good idea, but I have already tried this … I have a 3/4 inch socket set as well as the usual 1/2inch set … the hexagon head in the bolts is 6 mm … I have tried using 3/4 drive right down to 6 mm with 2 small adaptors … I am worried about something shearing !! the bolts are steel, tightened into an aluminium casting … did someone spit on the bolts before assembly ? or use Loctite ? they certainly will not budge. Maybe this is a clue from PROXXON that they do not expect it to be moved ?

HOPPER … the error is 0. 003 ( or 3 thou. ) diameter for about 1 inch length … not very easy to get a piston to fit a cylinder bore !!

MGNBUK … I have NOW used a test bar and it is pointed nicely at a centre held in the tailstock … the error only shows up when cutting …hmm … hmm … that might point the finger at the roller bearings… I have found the exact bearings in the Arc Euro Trade catalogue … they are £ 16. 99 each.

JOSEPH … maybe the error is mine … maybe I have not put enough preload onto the bearings ? … difficult, as I have no idea what it should be … some of my old cars, like an Austin 1800, needed 300 ft/ pounds as a preload on the steering swivel nuts … surely it will not need that much ??

Can I ask a general question please … if the bearings look o.k. but do need replacing, can anyone suggest a non-destructive method of removing the bearing nearest the rear of the chuck backplate … the opposite one is a light interference fit, but this is very tight … so far it has not moved … which is the safest method, oxy-acetylene for a bit of local heating or a grizzly disc please ? Obviously I want to avoid damage to the headstock spindle.

martin

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Today, my 'new bevel' saw arrived 6 days ahead of schedule – well done Evolution France. Another reason for researching Soft Start was to make sure that this new saw would not stall the generator, but to my delight, it has its own (un advertised) soft start and it starts and runs fine with the generator. The Rage 3S300 cuts through 300 x 60mm timber, 6mm steel etc etc. Looking forward to using it for making a timber garage over the coming months. It was 35 euro cheaper than other advertisers as it was a factory return (reason unknown). I expect other manufacturers do this and if you need a tool, perhaps see if the manufacturer has stock he wants to "off load".
BobH

[Dave TParticipant @davet19446]

Hi all,

Has anyone upgraded the above oiler on their mill? The nut holding the pump handle pivot fell off today, so I've dismantled it for repair. I've got to make a new gasket but wondered if anyone had 'improved' it at all?

I'm sure that the nuts don't get any oil via this device and started thinking of an article I read recenctly regarding the 'oiling' hardware avaibale from Arc Euro.

Any info. gratefully received – I will be making a non-return valve as the air pocket are riduculous