Search Results for 'arc euro'

[VicParticipant @vic]

I’ve got one and was quite surprised at the quality given the low price I paid for it. I bought it at one of the model engineering shows maybe five or six years ago. Probably from Chronos, or Arc Euro when they still attended the ME shows.

Mine looks like: “2 Morse Taper Quad Head Tailstock Die Holder (Ref: TSD2MT)” on this page:

**LINK**

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Robert,

Welcome to the forum. Measure the distance from the toolpost to the lathe centreline, this should give you an idea of the size of tooling your lathe will accomodate. The Yahoo 9x20Lathe group does have a manual for the Jet version and that says 1/2" tooling, on my slightly smaller lathe I use 10 or 12mm (may have to mill the underside of the toolholder).

Grinding and using HSS tools isn't that difficult and you can by HSS tool sets already ground to shape, like these ***Link***.

Thor

[Anonymous]

I mostly produce external threads by screwcutting, or with Coventry dieheads. On the odd occasion I use a die in the lathe I've been pinching a hand diestock between the work and tailstock barrel and hoping for the best.

I've been asked to quote for a small job that includes a M10x1 external thread. That's not practical to screwcut with my current lathe setup and for a 2 off it's not worth investing in a set of Coventry dies.

The above is a long winded way of saying I'm looking at acquiring a tailstock dieholder set. This is not an item I will use very often, so I need it to be functional but not necessarily sooper-dooper industrial quality. The offering from ArcEuroTrade looks attractive. Does anyone have one and can offer a view on it? Or suggest other suppliers to avoid?

Andrew

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

Hi John,

I'll do my best but IME you have picked the hardest thread-form to replicate first

[Edit: Legend added: A diagram of an ISO metric or Unified thread, showing dimensions relative to the pitch (P) and thread height (H). Note that while diferent standards, ISO and UTS share the same geometry, but not absolute dimensions. Also shown is the location rounding permissible in internal (dark grey, top) and external (light grey, bottom) threads. Key P: Pitch H: Thread height Dmaj: Major diameter Dmin: Minor diameter Dp: Effective pitch diameter Do not scale from this drawing.]

The best economical way to compare threads is using measuring wires (Available from Arc Euro Trade) and a micrometer. With wires you are effectively measuring part way down the flanks of the thread and so you can tell if the profiles are the same between a reference and your attempt – or indeed when using conversion tables you compare to the given effective diameter which is the diameter half way down the flanks. See the picture.

Whitworth has a rounded crest and root which can be difficult without a chaser or a die of some form. So, it is not uncommon to truncate the crests (at a smaller nominal diameter) effectively to a flat as would be the case in the metric and US 60 degree threads.

If I could recommend a new book to you. Try Martin Cleeve's "Screwcutting in the lathe". It's cheap but very good on all things related to threadcutting.

I hope this helps. Happy screwcutting! 

Jon

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 20/06/2018 08:59:19

[Bob StevensonParticipant @bobstevenson13909]

Thanks for continuing replies, however, this thread is a year old now and things have moved on…….

My Mini-Lathe (Chester Conquest) was made by Real Bull factory and the supplied change wheels were slightly different to the Sieg versions. I did aquire some extra wheels from ArcEuro and had to slightly adapt these to fit by modifying the bore and enlarging the keyway……..

However, late last year I sold off my Mini-Lathe, on which I made most of my first clock, and aquired a WM180 lathe which is similar in size to a Mini-Lathe but has turned out to be much better engineered, designed and made. Although considerably heavier than Mini-Lathe the WM180 (made by another Chinese factory, Weiss) is still small enough to live in my conservatory being the same length as Mini-Lathe. It has steel change wheels which fitted properly from new and although a little more expensive than a Conquest is much better equipped with two chucks, rests etc and comes out at as very competitively priced.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Thanks for all the advice guys.

I have ordered a HSS set from ArcEuro as per the picture Jon posted at the start of the thread. I,m hoping I will pick up the tool grinding ok, I am ok at sharpening drill bits free hand. I was taught by an old engineer many moons ago and it stuck with me.

Having looked at them again I dont think the carbide set have been sharpened, ground to shape yes, but sharpened no. I dont have a green wheel so they will have to wait before I give them a try.

Thanks again guys

Ron

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Ross,

Like you, I ordered a 6 inch vice for my Warco VMC mill, only to find that. when it arrived, I could only just about lift it and it was way too big for the machine. I packed it up and took it back to Arc Euro Trade, who were very understanding and swapped it for the smaller, 100mm version. I'm exceedingly pleased with my purchase and it is indeed a "versatile" precision vice, as advertised. Recommended.

**LINK**

I am a satisfied customer and committed Arcophile, only. No connection otherwise.

John

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Posted by John Haine on 19/06/2018 06:57:37:

Look for KM4 type. Axminster have them in 100mm at £204.29 max. Available from other sources too, probably cheaper. I've used one for years on my VMB.

Or this from RDG.

​I have one similar to this model… it does the job but I changed the clamp strips under the movable jaw from black steel to BDMS, to eliminate a tendency for jaw lift. Another type I would go for would be…

**LINK**

130-040-02000 Precision Tool Vice Type 2 – 90mm wide

£96.08 Excl.VAT £115.30 Inc.VAT

George.

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

Hi Ron,

I hate to pour cold water on your morning but I'd put them in a drawer and forget about them for while unless you have a grinder with a green or diamond wheel capable of touching up the edges of the tools and get them sharp enough to cut – and to restore the edges when they chip. The set you have will cut initially but could also be a recipe for frustration in the short term without means to redress them. I bought a set like yours when I started and it was a waste of money for me – although now I have a diamond wheel I use the left and right knife tools occasionally for cutting through rusty and mucky stuff and the scale on cast iron.

If you have a conventional grinder with a grey or white wheel then I'd buy a HSS right hand knife tool, a boring tool and a parting tool of this pattern in the right size…

…that should get you turning with something you can sharpen and do most of the things you'll want from an initial set of tools until you get threading, at which point you can buy the internal and external threading tools. Chronos sell individual tools and ArcEuro sell sets.

The alternative is to buy some HSS blanks and grind your own tool forms but these tools are a quick and cost effective way to get turning quickly and easily FME. I still use my tools of this form as a complement to hand ground and insert tipped tooling. Many people sware by the tangential tool holders but they are expensive unless you can make your own and they are just right-hand or left hand tools really.

Good luck and have fun – I hope this helps

Jon

 

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 19/06/2018 08:57:55

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Posted by Ignatz on 16/06/2018 14:57:43:

By the way, does anyone know if the gears for this old thing can still be obtained? I'd hate to try to sell it on in only semi-working condition.

 

Your old milling machine looks like a Sieg X2, if it is it seems ARC still carry spares – Link.

Thor

 

Edited By Thor on 16/06/2018 16:26:24

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Posted by Eric Cox on 16/06/2018 10:01:20:

looking at Niels link the HBM BF 25 looks identicle to a Warco wm 14. The cost of the HBM is €1199.99 ( £966 ) and the Warco is €1036 ( £835 ). Even with shipping the warco might work out slightly cheaper.

The HBM BF 25 is heavier, has a more powerful motor and a MT 3 spindle taper, I have the long table version and it has served me well for 5 years. I still wish I had bought the BF 30 (WM 18). The runout on the spindle taper on my BF 25 is slightly less than 0.01mm

Thor

Edited By Thor on 16/06/2018 10:59:47

[Eric CoxParticipant @ericcox50497]

looking at Niels link the HBM BF 25 looks identicle to a Warco wm 14. The cost of the HBM is €1199.99 ( £966 ) and the Warco is €1036 ( £835 ). Even with shipping the warco might work out slightly cheaper.

[NigeParticipant @nige81730]

pgk: There never was a 'problem'. I was looking for suppliers who offer a variety of sizes and people like Arceurotrade and WARCO only offer wheels as spares for tools they sell, often only in a single size.

As I am trying to design from scratch I was looking for suppliers that offer wheels with a range of dimensions so I had choices at this the design stage. I had missed Cromwell offering because I didn't delve deeply enough into their website but as it turns out they are expensive compared with Chronos who do offer the sort of range I was expecting to see and who I ordered from.

Cutwell have the range but are expensive and there are one or two others who manufacture for industry and appear to have the range but don't advertise their pricing.

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

Arc Euro Trade, Warco, RDG, Chronos, Cutwel.. lots of suppliers. really don't see the problem here. Warco's prices looked pretty competative with straight and diamond options. I can';t remember where i got mine but did buy both types and I'm usually mean enough to check prices. 'Knurling wheels' rather than 'knurls' in the search term.

pgk

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Surprised that no one has mentioned Arc Euro.

They offer wheels for Fine, Medium and Coarse diamond cut knurls. At 26mm diameter they seem to be large, but I can see an advantage in that. Catalogue 10 lists at £13:07 a pair, but prices seem to vary according to the exchange rate.

Much prefer the clamp type, since much less likely to impose a side load on the workpiece, or the Mandrel bearings.

Howard

[Paul H 1Participant @paulh1]

Living in France and having bought my lathe and mill from the UK a couple of years ago, don't be put off by shipping. I put a lot of research into what I wanted to buy and including shipping I got a much better deal than buying from any of the mainland European suppliers I found. I do not know why but for what seemed to be the same machine the price was always much higher. All the companies in the UK I contacted were happy to ship to France and it was not an unusual request for them.

With respect to size my mill is an equivalent of the Warco WM18. I am not terribly strong but from the crate being unloaded outside the workshop to putting it into place on the bench I built, I did everything alone. I built an angle iron drilling machine stand with good sized castors and used that to move the machine. Afterwards I installed the drilling machine.

One question I would ask all the suppliers you approach is what kind of variable speed controller board they use, do they always stock the spare boards and what price. Same for motors. That is if you are going for electronic variable speed (most of the machines in this size) with a DC motor as opposed to gears.

Paul

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Mick,

My reply to the other thread, that was censored yesterday, was that I would not be wanting one of their gift cards but would certainly not turn down a gift card from Arc EuroTrade if they ran a similar scheme.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Take a look at the first pages of the Arc Euro catalogue.

That lists the bearings that they stock and sell, giving ID/OD/Width and the code says whether open, shielded or rubber sealed. The first page covers Metric, (from 1 x 3 x 1 to 35 x 72 x 17 ) over the page are the Imperial sizes, (0.0551 x 3/16 x 7/64 to 1 x 2 x 1/2 ). Then there are the Angular Contact ones, and Taper Roller, Needle Roller, and Drawn Cup varieties, as well as Ball and Needle Thrust Bearings. So you may find what you are looking for there.

Despatch is quoted as "Within two working days" but they often arrive next day in UK.

Howard

[Pete RimmerParticipant @peterimmer30576]

Posted by JasonB on 08/06/2018 20:56:37:

Nige is making one of these but with a square head

A 'crotch centre'.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Bit of 3, 4 or 5mm mild steel rod if you have something that size knocking about, drill a hole to the nominal size of the rod no need for reaming or anything fancy and loctite it into the hole. Though for the drilling tool you are making just the Loctite will do.

Nige is making one of these but with a square head

 

Edited By JasonB on 08/06/2018 21:01:17

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hi Ronan,

On the subject of bearings for the Bridgeport, i had the same question a few days ago from someone else. I think this is the post you were referring to from 2015, from this thread :

**LINK**

———————————————————————————-

Posted by Muzzer on 17/02/2015 23:30:42:

These boys seem to be one of the main suppliers in the States for BP parts. It's helpful to know that "ABEC7" refers to the level of precision – I've learned something useful today!

The ABEC7 bearing kit seems to be $325 from them and there's a vid showing how to fit them. Can't say I'm massively impressed by the state of their workshop and their advice for setting the nut is "knock it pretty tight". Presumably that's a technical term. I love the way he "cleans" his hands at 4:55! I'm not convinced Ron Dennis would offer him a job.

All in all, it doesn't look too tricky if you can figure out how to drive the bearings on and off. I'd love to hear how you get on.

Murray

Hi Murray,

Americans like ANSI, and Europeans like ISO. So, ANSI ABEC7 = ISO P4.

Most common contact angle for match pair super precision angular contact bearings is 15 Deg. which is designated by the letter 'C' after the bearing number.

So, if JS is correct about what was fitted to the original Bridgeport, '7207CTRDULP4', then the letter C in this code means 15 Deg. contact angle, DU = duplex matched pair, L = suitable for light preload, P4 = ABEC7 precision.

NACHI – JAPAN price for the match pair 7207CDUP4 = same as above reference number = RHP/NSK reference number for the above = or better than SKF quality….probably…, currently GBP115.00 including VAT, delivered U.K. Mainland for the NACHI brand.

In the super precision match pair world, SKF by brand is 'less regarded with desirability' than others….in our opinion.

Ketan at ARC

Edited for clarification of brands/quality, and price indication specifically for NACHI brand at time of writing.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 18/02/2015 12:04:04

Edited By Ketan Swali on 18/02/2015 12:06:38

—————————————————————————————————————-

If so, then I was going to direct you to Simply Bearings or Bearing Boys for NACHI 7207CDUP4 (match pair), however, I was unable to get a clear cross reference whilst surfing their site. We have stopped offering a service to procure bearings which are outside our range. So, in the first instance, I would suggest you do a search to see if you can find them from a reputable U.K. general bearing stockist. If by Monday you fail to find them, at a suitable price, please email me on [email protected] and I will speak with my NACHI trade supplier and find price and availability for you.

Ketan at ARC.

[ronan walshParticipant @ronanwalsh98054]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 08/06/2018 16:26:00:

Hi Ronan,

Sorry to read you are having difficulty contacting us using the form on our website.

I tried it in the morning when I read your message, using Safari, and I tried it now using Firefox, Chrome, Edge, and all the messages are coming through. Similarly, messages sent by others overnight and throughout today by others using the same form have been coming through without difficulty.

I am unable to explain why you are experiencing a problem, but you are welcome to send a message directly to [email protected] , or call us during our normal working hours. On Fridays, we close at 4p.m.

Again, apologies for the inconvenience.

Ketan at ARC.

No real inconvenience Ketan, just odd it won't work for me. Anyway, you are the very person i wanted to talk to. I am overhauling a bridgeport 2j varispeed head, and i am not happy with the state of the spindle bearings.

Doing a google search of the subject, i came across a thread on this very forum, in which you say your company can supply a quality Japanese made bearing of the exact spec needed for this application, that were substancially cheaper than the replacement bearings from bridgeport etc.

As the thread was about 5 years old, i wanted to ask if you can still supply these bearings, how much they cost, delivery etc.

No particular rush on my end, but if you could get back to me that would be excellent.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Hi Nige,

It's a strange thing, but when I first got the SC4 I took a while to get decent finishes. It wasn't a case of bad adjustment, just getting used to the machine.

I suspect that the reason you are getting a poor finish on the uninterrupted cut is that the cut is too shallow. The interrupted bits whack into the tip and it gets under the surface and the cut is complete before it can escape. Further in, it can get out of the metal and once riding on the surface is less likely to get back into it, hence the ridges.

You should aim to be cutting a depth of at least 2/3 of the tip radius, especially with CCMT tips. CCGT are sharper and more forgiving.

Yesterday I was turning stainless at just ~450rpm using two different styles of tip, with DOC's between 2 and 1 mm I was getting a lovely finish but the swarf wasn't breaking up, just long, tight coils. I would have gone much faster, but I was cutting up to a shoulder.

FWIW these 45-degree SCMT tools from Arc are brilliant for roughing cuts, 3mm or more in even horrible steels and leave a good finish.

Neil

<edit> I see Jason has come to exactly the same conclusion!

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 08/06/2018 16:51:35

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hi Ronan,

Sorry to read you are having difficulty contacting us using the form on our website.

I tried it in the morning when I read your message, using Safari, and I tried it now using Firefox, Chrome, Edge, and all the messages are coming through. Similarly, messages sent by others overnight and throughout today by others using the same form have been coming through without difficulty.

I am unable to explain why you are experiencing a problem, but you are welcome to send a message directly to [email protected] , or call us during our normal working hours. On Fridays, we close at 4p.m.

Again, apologies for the inconvenience.

Ketan at ARC.

[Adam MaraParticipant @adammara]

The order email is

[email protected]

if that helps.