Search Results for 'zan'

[Peter Cuthbert 1Participant @petercuthbert1]

Hi John

Many thanks for the post and words of wisdom. I had been thinking a bit about condensing though from an idleness point of view. If set up properly it should keep the boiler water level spot on without the need to faff. However, my reluctance at the moment is, as ever, from ignorance. The plan for this canoe hull is to have splitable into two or perhaps three pieces. The designers do that with some of their other designs so will show me what is needed if I go that way. I'm not sure how I would get a condenser to go with that. The reasoning behind splitting is to do with weight, space and age. Whilst I try to keep fit, as a small old bloke the amount I can lift is limited so the canoe in two or three parts is at most 20kg per bit. The engine and pumps should be below 20kg and removable. The coil boiler is also under that limit if I get the one I am thinking about built. The space issue is essentially to do with winter storage which will be the mezzanine 'shelf' in the garage which is not big. Transport is also an issue and a trailer is out of the question as there is nowhere to keep it. Thus all the bits must go inside the VW and leave room for passengers.

Happily I am now in the position where I have the plans for the canoe, the boiler and now the engine, though minus the pumps. What is needed is to find the time to pull all the pieces together and see that they will all fit. I'm not sure when that will get done as there seems to be so much going on here. This is a badly built 1930s house and seems to be in permanent need of being 'fixed'.

Going back to the pumps issue, I quite like the idea of fitting a 1:4 gearing on the rear shaft of the engine which will put the bigger gear directly below the small gear. That can drive a single eccentric which can activate the two pumps that will be horizontal and effectively down by the bottom of the engine base level. That fits well with your observation.

All the information I have been collecting about the Cygnet suggests that 500-600 RPM would be a normal working speed so I need to go back to my propeller calculations and see what the higher speed produces. I suspect that will be a much smaller prop which will fit in better than the original proposal.

Regards

Pete

Edited By Peter Cuthbert 1 on 31/03/2022 21:46:35

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

Posted by pgk pgk on 16/03/2022 11:46:40:

Poo happens! It's a question of who gets the blame.

Back in the late 60's my local council of the time built a new set of council offices at a huge cost. They'd got to the second floor when checks revealed that the foundations would be inadequate and the whole thing was knocked down and re-started. A junior was sacked. Who would have thought that a multimillion pound project woudn't have its structural calculations cross-checked? Yeah, likely.

My last year at college and a mate who had graduated and was working as a surveyor on the new Euston railway station told me he discovered a room the length of the mezzanine and a few feet wide with no doors or windows..

pgk

I drove past this place every week, watching it gradually get bigger, then one day it seemed to be getting smaller again…it’s almost finished now:

**LINK**

[David-Clark 1Participant @david-clark1]

Hi there

Split pasting as too long

i am self taught,.

I started reading Model Engineer in the school library at 12 years old, and learnt by reading all the articles.

I did not get a home workshop for many years. With the knowledge learned I started factory work at 15 and was a factory foreman at 18>

The manager was a total twat. He would sit in the office trying to work out how many hand washes we should be getting out of a bar of soap.

So I became foreman because despite having all the papers he did not want to get his hands dirty on the shop floor. He eventually left to start his own engineering consultancy. As far as I could see was his only engineering skill was breaking into his old Rover Car on a weekly basis because because he had looked his keys in again.

When he started as manager he started by clearing the rubbish out of the factory mezzanine floor.

We got all the rubbish outside and burnt it but we also threw loads of swarf on it. This was on a Saturday morning and we clocked out at lunch time. Monday morning he moaned he was stuck there until 7pm Saturday evening because he could not get the fire out.

I went on to self employment as a turret miller a few years later. Never done turret milling before but soon learnt. A turret mill was just a large vertical mill, most commonly a Bridgeport mill. This was over 40 years ago and I was earning £300 ro £400 a week back them, a lot of money.

I next got a job as a CNC miller. I had no idea how to program a CNC mill but the boss said the other miller would teach me programming Monday morning arrived and I was put to work operating the mill. Tuesday the man training me didn’t arrive. He phoned in sick. He had shingles and he was off for 6 weeks with shingles.

The company only had two CNC mills so they gave me the machine manual and said basically get on with it.

On the first day, I broke one drill but I was off. I had an interest in computer programming at the time, still do. So I used to write Quick basic programs that I could convert to Heidenhain, the programming language used by that particular CNC controller maker. I wrote programs that automated the creation of programs to mill a hexagon. Enter the diameter of the cutter and the hexagon AF size and the program would mill the hexagon and move to a safe position and stop. Program resize took about 30 seconds instead of the usual 30 minutes, Another one did flanges where it drilled the 3 holes and milled the profile.

About 6 weeks later my “trainer” came back. He was upset that I had taught myself without him. He left a few weeks later.

Some time later I went for a job as a Fanuc control CNC miller. I did not have a clue how to program in G code. Yes, you’ve guessed it. I taught, myself. I took the manual home overnight, read it, Made a cheat sheat on a floppy disk and a printout and started work

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

Poo happens! It's a question of who gets the blame.

Back in the late 60's my local council of the time built a new set of council offices at a huge cost. They'd got to the second floor when checks revealed that the foundations would be inadequate and the whole thing was knocked down and re-started. A junior was sacked. Who would have thought that a multimillion pound project woudn't have its structural calculations cross-checked? Yeah, likely.

My last year at college and a mate who had graduated and was working as a surveyor on the new Euston railway station told me he discovered a room the length of the mezzanine and a few feet wide with no doors or windows..

pgk

[Mark RandParticipant @markrand96270]

Indigo Rose have an interesting smokey flavour until they are too ripe.

San Marzano is a good plum tomato with a a nice flavour for use as a salad tromato as well as a cooker.

Both are non-Ft types. and the seed keeps for a long time if you keep it bone dry after fermentation.

Sweet Million F1 is a good sweet cherry tom, but prone to splitting at the slightest provovation.

Sweet Success F1 is a good Sweet cherry tom with a thicker skin.

[PeroParticipant @pero]

Hi Zan

Not sure of their current status but they were operating in October 2017 when I made my last kit purchase – Sir William – which was subsequently received with no issues.

I did do a quick search when I saw your post and the only direct reference I found was an undated note to say they were updatng their website.

Perhaps an email or phone call might help to clarify matters. The last contact details I have available are :

[email protected]

Sorry, I don't have a phone number but I am sure someone on here will be able to help.

Best of luck

Pero

[ZanParticipant @zan]

You answered your own question. Regrind (grind away, reform, remake) when it gets too small! Or needs too much effort to get it up to centreheight and still be able to see it cutting

Touch up grinding is done exactly the same way ( face or side) as the initial grind…….

 

Edited By Zan on 20/01/2022 20:36:14

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I keep a log of all the assemblies Iv made, how many parts down to individual pieces in a fabrication ( not difficult but must be started at same time as starting the build) , and dates interesting to see the progress

have I made it? Yes cos there’s a pencil tick on the drawing …….

my workshop is attached to the house with background heating radiators. Never had any storage degradation problems, but parts in boxes like above, bagged in small tin boxes, wrapped in a drawer, sat on shelves fir the biggies, boiler in its custom housing, chassis assembly sat on a solid trolley on the building stand. Espasy to move round and rotate.
it all depends on your shop, time and the size of the parts

Edited By Zan on 20/01/2022 20:29:56

[OldironParticipant @oldiron]

Posted by Zan on 14/01/2022 12:54:49:

I’d like to look at this, but don’t like the cookies. Too many

Just go to manage cookies and turn as many on or off as you wish.

I imagine there are no more cookies on that site than on the many you visit everyday.

These cookies have been there for a long time it is only lately that sites have to tell you which cookies they have by law.

Also set cookie preferences to delete at PC shut down.

regards

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Zan on 14/01/2022 12:54:49:

I’d like to look at this, but don’t like the cookies. Too many

.

I saw it originally on the Apple News feed, but some folks don’t like links to that: so I found the CNN page to link here.

It didn’t take me long to reject all the ‘optional’ cookies.

MichaelG.

.

https://apple.news/AF7bHa1OHRTCYo3Yy_d6gWQ

for those with the appropriate device.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 14/01/2022 23:58:14

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Mike

Pictured a Fuji VFD removed from a frozen food factory, it was surface mounted without further protection adjacent to and controlling a flat belt conveyor from a blast freezer carrying frozen potato chips through a metal detector and discoloured chips that removed the discoloured chips and of course any metal fragments, they were removed from the belt by a pneumatic arm.

The belt and detector were on a mezzanine floor so any removed bits fell into a chute to a waste bin, the product carried on and discharged into another chute that went to a Euro pallet size 1.5M high plastic bag lined wooden crate and then to the frozen product cold store to await packaging in another part of the site.

I don't know the date of manufacture but I removed it around 1995, last time I used it was to test run a motor after fitting new bearings about 3 years ago when it worked OK, you will see the test cables coming out of the gland plate, pity I didn't fit at least a grommet.

I believe this would have been purchased mid 1980's so now 35+years old, a top of the range and high cost VFD when purchased so it does give a thumbs up to reliability of the more expensive unit.

Emgee

Edit to remove a picture.

 

 

Edited By Emgee on 02/01/2022 13:12:29

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I converted mine in 1990 and have never looked back, except I used a 3/4 horse, to match the original but and at times it lacks grunt so 1×1.25 hp would be better. I increased the motor pulley size in order to increase motor speed and cooling at low speed. I still use the headstock belt change from max to min when big stuff or ci is being turned . If you can try to get a resilient 3 phase motor, they run a lot quieter.

 

i like the look of the micro switch limit. I’ll have to investigate that, but it will need very disciplined use as the motor will start again as soon as the saddle is moved it probably needs some form of electronic latch building in so a reset button has to be pressed before a restart is possible .  Not difficult!

Edited By Zan on 24/12/2021 12:54:15

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Here is my set up with the apAa pew multifix. It’s an 8 mm tool bit sat on a 1.5 mm packing no particular reason for this, Plenty of adjustment above and below as can be seen. I generally use 8 & 10 mm. toolbits. I have found the toolpost system both incredibly rigid and accurate in repositioning tools. The base is a replacement for the topslide, and is perhaps a bit big, for the much smaller multifix set up,  it was made for the previous toolpost. I rarely use the topslide now with a DRO, it gets in the way and introduces another possible lack of rigidity..

The project is making cooling fins on a v8 Whittle engine

ps does anybody know if the Chronos holder will fit this post correctly? Don’t want to pay the import duty again and handling fee!

 

Edited By Zan on 24/12/2021 12:36:25

[Richard ClarkParticipant @richardclark20276]

Rob Roy Drawings are Imperial and show two boiler clack bush positions.

One each side. Martin Evans improvements drawing included.

Suzanne Drawings are Metric including the alternative valve gear drive drawing done earlier this year

Regards

Richard

Kennions Model Engineering

[Jon LawesParticipant @jonlawes51698]

I think Suzanne is probably metric as it was designed in metric. The opposite for Rob Roy for the same reasons. However I'm afraid a guess is all I can offer.

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Can anyone tell me whether Kennions "Rob Roy" and "Suzanne" are in metric or imperial. I do have these sets of drawing but I ordered them as a Christmas present for myself and the wife has hidden them until Christmas day, I did tell her she is a spoil sport

I do however suspect that Rob Roy is imperial

Edited By Derek Lane on 02/12/2021 11:50:32

[ZanParticipant @zan]

In the set I revered to earlier, I still had to make the t nurs the correct size were 12mm and too big. Even for the Bridgeport with the size of work I do. If I was building a big 7 1/4 or 6” traction engine it would be a different matter

john Yes I’d glue in thoes pins, but in use does the clamping forces tend to push the vertical block back, and there’s not a lot of height adjustment compared to a stepped block this would  I think be worse when there’s a height difference between the packing height and work.  However an interesting solution.   Originally I used a system similar to tugs, but the stepped blocks are a lot better

Edited By Zan on 19/11/2021 17:11:15

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Yes Zan, I agree. The nuts & studs etc are the easy bit. The stepped packing blocks and associated straps not quite so.

It just struck me, that while it's nice to have a range of options, a 52/58 piece set seems a little overkill at present (for me at least). In the future maybe, but I'll tackle that if need be at the time.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Zan

These tools are designed to be ground on the end only so the chip breaker groove and height of cutting edge is preserved.

A bit wasteful of HSS as you have to grind back by whatever depth of cut you are using but it does give a reliably sharp tool every time. From a beginners, inexperienced grinder, or similar perspective its a decent way of ensuring you get a reliable sharpness and shape every time.

Neophytes have quite enough to worry about without factoring in problems from poorly shaped or not actually that sharp regrind / touch up of tools.

Its very easy to inadvertently take off the "really sharpness" of a tool edge when doing that last touch up on the grinding wheel or honing to clean up the finish. One reason why I advocate hollow grinding on the periphery of the wheel because it gives a curved face with only top and bottom edges contacting the hone so there is no tendency to roll over the edge when touching up.

Naturally once you know what a good tool cuts like its relatively easy to get your results good too.

Clive

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Jason I agree. It’s a left hand tool because it cuts a shoulder on the left of the workpiece ie working towards the tailstock

 I would never touch one of these formed tools. Why? It will go blunt and need regrinding so what happens to the rake angles and chip breaker groove. Expensive for what they are. As stated, buy a grinder n decent quality HSS banks. It’s even possible to use an angle grinder to form a very crude cutter , I tried it as an experiment.  It looks grim, angles all to pot but cut ok! ( now reground  with my tc grinder)

Edited By Zan on 17/11/2021 14:02:05

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

This should point you in the right direction, Vic

**LINK**

https://www.fingers-welt.de/info/Drehen/16erSpannzangen%20C8.pdf

MichaelG.

[Steve355Participant @steve355]

Thanks Zan, hopefully I won’t need to scrape anything.

So, now I’ve taken the shims out of the left hand side (non-precision side) and the table goes back on, with possibly an improvement. I need to do the same with the right hand side. Bolts out, but these locator springs (see below)…. What’s the best way to get this strip off without damaging the locator springs? I’m worried about knackering them.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

It’s a long long time since I built and sold my dw but it was a great machine

adding shims will make the wobble worse . The table bar is located under the saddle bar, thus adding shim where you show it in the photo will increase the clearance. It would probably mean scraping the bar seat to make it thinner, but take care, material will need to be removed equally  from the front and back top faces of the saddle after removing the way bars or the table will tilt in the y direction 

where you show lug in green, above the left screw the boss does not seem to have much clearance with the underside of the table. Check you can push a feeler gauge in the gap this bar runs the full length of the saddle 

the dw was designed so it could be constructed with lathe alone. In its day, few m engineers had anything for milling except the vertical slide

the table travel can be at any angle, it will still work true, but it will make setting up difficult without using the table edge fir reference

the controlling factor here is the table bar being parallel to the table edge

if u replace any of these bars, drill and tap new holes in new positions.

Edited By Zan on 06/11/2021 00:04:34

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I’m at the stage of doing the boiler cladding. The barrel is dia.6” and 12” long

i have some 24 g brass, but I think that’s too thin and was thinking about 20 g

as an alternative I could use 24g stainless

what do people recommend for thickness or metal type?

thanks

zan

[SquarepegParticipant @squarepeg]

Thanks Zan and Stevie, both good ideas that I will try out. I'm going to keep chipping away at this until I've solved it, even if its a combination of errors and takes a while to do.

Thanks again!