Search Results for 'zan'

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I keep a log of all the assemblies Iv made, how many parts down to individual pieces in a fabrication ( not difficult but must be started at same time as starting the build) , and dates interesting to see the progress

have I made it? Yes cos there’s a pencil tick on the drawing …….

my workshop is attached to the house with background heating radiators. Never had any storage degradation problems, but parts in boxes like above, bagged in small tin boxes, wrapped in a drawer, sat on shelves fir the biggies, boiler in its custom housing, chassis assembly sat on a solid trolley on the building stand. Espasy to move round and rotate.
it all depends on your shop, time and the size of the parts

Edited By Zan on 20/01/2022 20:29:56

[OldironParticipant @oldiron]

Posted by Zan on 14/01/2022 12:54:49:

I’d like to look at this, but don’t like the cookies. Too many

Just go to manage cookies and turn as many on or off as you wish.

I imagine there are no more cookies on that site than on the many you visit everyday.

These cookies have been there for a long time it is only lately that sites have to tell you which cookies they have by law.

Also set cookie preferences to delete at PC shut down.

regards

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Zan on 14/01/2022 12:54:49:

I’d like to look at this, but don’t like the cookies. Too many

.

I saw it originally on the Apple News feed, but some folks don’t like links to that: so I found the CNN page to link here.

It didn’t take me long to reject all the ‘optional’ cookies.

MichaelG.

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https://apple.news/AF7bHa1OHRTCYo3Yy_d6gWQ

for those with the appropriate device.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 14/01/2022 23:58:14

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Mike

Pictured a Fuji VFD removed from a frozen food factory, it was surface mounted without further protection adjacent to and controlling a flat belt conveyor from a blast freezer carrying frozen potato chips through a metal detector and discoloured chips that removed the discoloured chips and of course any metal fragments, they were removed from the belt by a pneumatic arm.

The belt and detector were on a mezzanine floor so any removed bits fell into a chute to a waste bin, the product carried on and discharged into another chute that went to a Euro pallet size 1.5M high plastic bag lined wooden crate and then to the frozen product cold store to await packaging in another part of the site.

I don't know the date of manufacture but I removed it around 1995, last time I used it was to test run a motor after fitting new bearings about 3 years ago when it worked OK, you will see the test cables coming out of the gland plate, pity I didn't fit at least a grommet.

I believe this would have been purchased mid 1980's so now 35+years old, a top of the range and high cost VFD when purchased so it does give a thumbs up to reliability of the more expensive unit.

Emgee

Edit to remove a picture.

 

 

Edited By Emgee on 02/01/2022 13:12:29

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I converted mine in 1990 and have never looked back, except I used a 3/4 horse, to match the original but and at times it lacks grunt so 1×1.25 hp would be better. I increased the motor pulley size in order to increase motor speed and cooling at low speed. I still use the headstock belt change from max to min when big stuff or ci is being turned . If you can try to get a resilient 3 phase motor, they run a lot quieter.

 

i like the look of the micro switch limit. I’ll have to investigate that, but it will need very disciplined use as the motor will start again as soon as the saddle is moved it probably needs some form of electronic latch building in so a reset button has to be pressed before a restart is possible .  Not difficult!

Edited By Zan on 24/12/2021 12:54:15

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Here is my set up with the apAa pew multifix. It’s an 8 mm tool bit sat on a 1.5 mm packing no particular reason for this, Plenty of adjustment above and below as can be seen. I generally use 8 & 10 mm. toolbits. I have found the toolpost system both incredibly rigid and accurate in repositioning tools. The base is a replacement for the topslide, and is perhaps a bit big, for the much smaller multifix set up,  it was made for the previous toolpost. I rarely use the topslide now with a DRO, it gets in the way and introduces another possible lack of rigidity..

The project is making cooling fins on a v8 Whittle engine

ps does anybody know if the Chronos holder will fit this post correctly? Don’t want to pay the import duty again and handling fee!

 

Edited By Zan on 24/12/2021 12:36:25

[Richard ClarkParticipant @richardclark20276]

Rob Roy Drawings are Imperial and show two boiler clack bush positions.

One each side. Martin Evans improvements drawing included.

Suzanne Drawings are Metric including the alternative valve gear drive drawing done earlier this year

Regards

Richard

Kennions Model Engineering

[Jon LawesParticipant @jonlawes51698]

I think Suzanne is probably metric as it was designed in metric. The opposite for Rob Roy for the same reasons. However I'm afraid a guess is all I can offer.

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Can anyone tell me whether Kennions "Rob Roy" and "Suzanne" are in metric or imperial. I do have these sets of drawing but I ordered them as a Christmas present for myself and the wife has hidden them until Christmas day, I did tell her she is a spoil sport

I do however suspect that Rob Roy is imperial

Edited By Derek Lane on 02/12/2021 11:50:32

[ZanParticipant @zan]

In the set I revered to earlier, I still had to make the t nurs the correct size were 12mm and too big. Even for the Bridgeport with the size of work I do. If I was building a big 7 1/4 or 6” traction engine it would be a different matter

john Yes I’d glue in thoes pins, but in use does the clamping forces tend to push the vertical block back, and there’s not a lot of height adjustment compared to a stepped block this would  I think be worse when there’s a height difference between the packing height and work.  However an interesting solution.   Originally I used a system similar to tugs, but the stepped blocks are a lot better

Edited By Zan on 19/11/2021 17:11:15

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Yes Zan, I agree. The nuts & studs etc are the easy bit. The stepped packing blocks and associated straps not quite so.

It just struck me, that while it's nice to have a range of options, a 52/58 piece set seems a little overkill at present (for me at least). In the future maybe, but I'll tackle that if need be at the time.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Zan

These tools are designed to be ground on the end only so the chip breaker groove and height of cutting edge is preserved.

A bit wasteful of HSS as you have to grind back by whatever depth of cut you are using but it does give a reliably sharp tool every time. From a beginners, inexperienced grinder, or similar perspective its a decent way of ensuring you get a reliable sharpness and shape every time.

Neophytes have quite enough to worry about without factoring in problems from poorly shaped or not actually that sharp regrind / touch up of tools.

Its very easy to inadvertently take off the "really sharpness" of a tool edge when doing that last touch up on the grinding wheel or honing to clean up the finish. One reason why I advocate hollow grinding on the periphery of the wheel because it gives a curved face with only top and bottom edges contacting the hone so there is no tendency to roll over the edge when touching up.

Naturally once you know what a good tool cuts like its relatively easy to get your results good too.

Clive

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Jason I agree. It’s a left hand tool because it cuts a shoulder on the left of the workpiece ie working towards the tailstock

 I would never touch one of these formed tools. Why? It will go blunt and need regrinding so what happens to the rake angles and chip breaker groove. Expensive for what they are. As stated, buy a grinder n decent quality HSS banks. It’s even possible to use an angle grinder to form a very crude cutter , I tried it as an experiment.  It looks grim, angles all to pot but cut ok! ( now reground  with my tc grinder)

Edited By Zan on 17/11/2021 14:02:05

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

This should point you in the right direction, Vic

**LINK**

https://www.fingers-welt.de/info/Drehen/16erSpannzangen%20C8.pdf

MichaelG.

[Steve355Participant @steve355]

Thanks Zan, hopefully I won’t need to scrape anything.

So, now I’ve taken the shims out of the left hand side (non-precision side) and the table goes back on, with possibly an improvement. I need to do the same with the right hand side. Bolts out, but these locator springs (see below)…. What’s the best way to get this strip off without damaging the locator springs? I’m worried about knackering them.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

It’s a long long time since I built and sold my dw but it was a great machine

adding shims will make the wobble worse . The table bar is located under the saddle bar, thus adding shim where you show it in the photo will increase the clearance. It would probably mean scraping the bar seat to make it thinner, but take care, material will need to be removed equally  from the front and back top faces of the saddle after removing the way bars or the table will tilt in the y direction 

where you show lug in green, above the left screw the boss does not seem to have much clearance with the underside of the table. Check you can push a feeler gauge in the gap this bar runs the full length of the saddle 

the dw was designed so it could be constructed with lathe alone. In its day, few m engineers had anything for milling except the vertical slide

the table travel can be at any angle, it will still work true, but it will make setting up difficult without using the table edge fir reference

the controlling factor here is the table bar being parallel to the table edge

if u replace any of these bars, drill and tap new holes in new positions.

Edited By Zan on 06/11/2021 00:04:34

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I’m at the stage of doing the boiler cladding. The barrel is dia.6” and 12” long

i have some 24 g brass, but I think that’s too thin and was thinking about 20 g

as an alternative I could use 24g stainless

what do people recommend for thickness or metal type?

thanks

zan

[SquarepegParticipant @squarepeg]

Thanks Zan and Stevie, both good ideas that I will try out. I'm going to keep chipping away at this until I've solved it, even if its a combination of errors and takes a while to do.

Thanks again!

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Ady1 on 21/09/2021 23:11:31:

It's been no booze fags or petrol for years with vouchers

.

Last time I used a Waitrose voucher … my ‘basket’ included six bottles of decent Sherry

Not only did they honour the voucher, but they also honoured the bulk-buy offer … so I got one bottle free, and the discount.

Noting Duncan’s recent jibe on another thread: I don’t do much general shopping at Waitrose, but I do like a bargain [it tastes even better].

MichaelG.

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Manzanilla Pastrana … if anyone is interested

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 22/09/2021 00:20:26

[ZanParticipant @zan]

The Warco machine was too big for me, there just wasn’t the space for it, when I converted mine but it lis also a very capable machine and significantly heavier build but many of my details could be simply modified to fit this machine but the spindle max speed is a bit on the low side, I sped mine up to 3400 and that’s only just fast enough, you tend to use smaller cutters and leave the machine on its own ( or at least that’s the theory, as they are so fascinating to watch),!

  Added.   with a 3 k budget the Warco machine is too expensive

Edited By Zan on 16/09/2021 14:06:09

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I covered the conversion of my sieg sx2p in ME 17 parts from 18 aug 18 To 22 nov 19. It covered problems I had with the basic machine , which we’re not difficult to fix , (the machine is very capable], mechanical conversion, adding ball screws, electronics using cnc for you components (Mostly simple point to point wiring), commissioning and examples of use

where are you based? Send me a pm if you like.

 

I think the problem with the Denford is the small envelope esp in the z axis. There are not many choices availiable for finished machines, I would not touch the emco machine because it has a m3 taper tarter than the R8 in the sieg. The other alternative is the tormach, 770 for a bigger machine or the 440 for something smaller. the problem with this is the cost of importing, although I understand there is a U.K. dealer being set up. I didn’t have the room for the 770, but do now alert the workshop was almost doubled in size. It takes a lot of z height when say drilling when you have sub tables and vices to consider.

Edited By Zan on 16/09/2021 14:05:00

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Zan on 15/09/2021 13:22:18:

It may be only 1 watt, but I bet there’s a lot more than 100 mil televisions alone on standby at the moment Perhaps a lot more. Just work that out.

.

Sorry but that’s irrelevant to my observation of the 2010 poster

MichaelG.

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Posted by Zan on 12/09/2021 14:07:04:

Soft jaws! Soft jaws and I repeat again!

….

Edited By Zan on 12/09/2021 14:07:41

Yes! Buy some! You'll never regret it.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Soft jaws! Soft  jaws and I repeat again!

Or rough turn a top hat bush and slit it lengthwise a with a 1/16 saw.

Fill cut with brass strip,

Mount in Chuck carefully matking the position of jaw 1

bore to fit the castellated spigot

remove brass strip refit to marked jaw and forget your problems

this method will give far more accurate results than er chucks top hat bush needed for axial location. Perhaps long winded, but it will give the sort of results you cherish

Edited By Zan on 12/09/2021 14:07:41

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

I had a double oven and grill by Hotpoint, fitted just 2.5 years ago with new kitchen. Main oven started smoking so knowing that the make is an 'also ran', if I got parts replaced under warranty, how long would I wait and how long would they last? I decided to make use of my Which? mags and selected a highly recommended Zanussi, delivered installed and tested by a local retailer who took away the busted one for free, normally charge £18. Very happy with the much better quality version.