Search Results for 'zan'

[Philip SlaterParticipant @philipslater86297]

Thanks i'm assuming the 2 grooves in the output coupling are used only with the vertical head and all the drive for the horizantal arbor comes from the MT3 taper which is secured by the drawbar.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Posted by Fowlers Fury on 18/06/2018 09:44:49:

Duncan:-
'wasn't aware of your 'trick' ~ good one !. That below is a cut'n'paste from Word 2007 apart from the italic text.

Using Windows 10 with Calibri (Body) type face:-

(Alt+2300), release Alt = strange character like O with umlaut

“if you type 2300 then hold down the alt key and type x, release both and wait for a split second
it converts the 2300 to a diameter sign.” = ⌀

I found that alt+ inserts extended ascii characters, not unicode, but not the ones listed in the table at

**LINK**

for instance if I type alt+234 I get Û whereas I should get a greek omega, and the table I found runs out at 255 (8 bits)

[Nick HulmeParticipant @nickhulme30114]

Posted by Zan on 07/03/2018 23:56:17:

No coms port, that's why I went for the uc100 which is fed by USB cable. I tried 3 port cards before splashing out on the uc, non worked due to address conflicts. In anycase coms port is obslete and if my computer gives up the ghost I'd be back to square one.

If you haven't dealt with all the power management settings on the USB you are ignoring the major issue with lost Communication on USB devices.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

 

Go for a thicker slab with at least 50 mm insulation preferably 100 mm. Be sure to bring the Dpm up to cover the edges of the slab or damp will penetrate try to get a good layer of clean rubble under the slab. It will be warm and a lot more solid for machines. I use perforated rubber mats on the floor, stops small dropped components rolling too far, is warm and the dross falls in the holes and not underfoot. Insulate the walls with king span more expensive than rock wool, but better. Line it with 12 mm flooring chipboard stood on end then it's so easy to screw anything onto the wall and its solid

My workshop has plastic cladding, air gap, breathable membrane, Osb, 4 x2 timber and the chipboard. Very very warm and dry Any timber must be at least 4" above ground level, with a ramp at the door. Will be a problem getting machines in, but you won't be doing that very often

Lastly the dpm top edge must be covered, the external cladding should be positioned so it's overhanging the slab with an air gap if possible   An internal dpm must be fixed to the insulated frame before fitting the inner layer of chipboard. My 3 X 3 ( inside) extension cost about 1500 2 years ago

 

Edited By Zan on 05/06/2018 11:27:30

[Perko7Participant @perko7]

Further to the comments from XD351, as an Aussie relative newcomer myself, I've found my drilling machine gets more use than the lathe, so to me that would be first choice, along with a set of metric drills from 1mm to 10mm in 0.5mm increments initially, followed by a vice and a selection of hand tools such as hacksaw (standard size and 'junior' size), files (probably one set second cut in mill, flat, round, triangle, square and 1/2 round would be enough to start, plus some small smoothing files for tidying up rough edges), punches (centre and pin), hammer and tinsnips (good quality in both LH and RH cut). You'd be surprised how much you can make with this basic equipment. You really only need a lathe for turning things that need to be accurately round such as axles, wheels etc. If you are able to join a local ME club many have lathes and milling machines available to members along with free instruction on how to use them.

Unless you are keen on having scale-size hex-head bolts everywhere on your loco, i'd recommend going metric for all fasteners. There is a wide selection available in Australia down to M2 in high tensile (try NutzandBoltz) in socket head, button head and countersunk, as well as the hex-head and Phillips head in mild steel and sometimes stainless steel from major hardware chains from M3 and larger. They usually don't cost as much as more traditional model engineering thread types from the specialist suppliers. Tap and die sets for metric threads are also readily available from the major machinery retailers (Hare & Forbes, Blackwoods etc). Also download and print out a couple of comparison tables for various fastener types so you can get an idea of relative size of BA, metric, and other thread types.

The usual disclaimer for the retailers mentioned above, i'm simply a satisfied customer.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Zan on 10/04/2018 09:17:14:

So what's this to do with model engineering? Get real this is Facebook and Twitter rubbish

This is the tea-room topic. Everything except sex, politics and religion is fair game.

Neil

[doubletopParticipant @doubletop]

Posted by Zan on 10/04/2018 09:17:14:

So what's this to do with model engineering? Get real this is Facebook and Twitter rubbish

We're in the tea room having a tea break…

[MikeParticipant @mike89748]

Bazyle, It depends on whether you prefer to fish with the reel handles on the left or the right. If, like most anglers, you prefer handles on the left, then you turn anti-clockwise.

Sam, I never did like Diawa reels. For me it was Mitchell fixed spools (which I am still using), and ABU made in Sweden multipliers (ditto). I still have three Mitchells ad four ABUs. My fly reels come from a variety of sources, and I used to make my own coarse fishing centre-pins – at first from the crowns of scrap Caterpillar diesel engine pistons, then from a very high grade aluminium bar acquired through a pal who worked in the aerospace industry.

Some time in the early 1970s I borrowed a load of vintage tackle from Hardys for an exhibition I helped put on at a country sports show. Among many interesting things was Hardy's pre-war Zane Grey big-game multiplier. It was huge, made of Monel metal, and seemed to weigh about a ton! Incidentally, if anyone is tempted to build a fly reel or a coarse-fishing centre-pin (and it isn't exactly rocket science) do use aluminium bar stock, and don't be tempted to fabricate one out of plate. Plate always warps and the reel runs out of true – and that's from personal experience. 

 

 

Edited By Mike on 09/04/2018 14:29:37

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

Mike – your point is taken but, unfortunately, the response you made is being repeated, with serious intent, elsewhere. There is a worryingly large body of opinion which sees this sort of activity as 'just harmless boy's pranks'.

I have operated on both sides of the debate – I had to recover my predecessor's personal effects from the crash site where he died and I have flown a Tristar under the Verrazzano Narrows Bridge in N Y and a 747- 400 under the Golden Gate Bridge in S F – (twice!) Both were accomplished in the only environment for such – a full flight Sim. The latter were no more than careful trimming, monitoring and observation and … very satisfying. Nobody and nothing was at risk. Aviation, (the real, not virtual variety) possibly more than any other environment, is no place for self-indulgent stupidity.

rgds

Bill

[Bob Dennis 3Participant @bobdennis3]

Hi I am looking for the articles published in Model Engineer on the Anzani "Y" 1/4 scale engine that was serialised in Aug 96 in issues 4022 4024 4026 4028 4030 4032 4034 and 4036. I have been looking for a link to buy reprints of the articles with no luck. Can anyone point me in the right direction, or indeed have the issues for sale.

Regards Bob

[Stewart HartParticipant @stewarthart90345]

Zan

I was concerned with ash dropping on the axle so I also made a new ash pan and fitted a brass guard to go over the axle to try and keep the axle clean of ash.

The fact that only one axle box wore led me away from entirely blaming ash, but as I'd got it in bits any way i thought I would edge my bets.

Stew

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Just get a block of cast iron and machine it to match the size of the top slide and base so it fits in the existing socket. This extension could be fabricated with cap screws and a couple of dowels, bonded with locktite I recently did this, the setup is far more rigid and no more fouling the tailstock. An alternative is a plate drilled for bolts into the t slots perhaps with a spacer to bring the height but this will be more fiddly to set up after needing the topslide for short tapers or screwcutting.up just build it. No drawings needed. I suggest positioning the tool post on the left of the cross slide just overhanging its edge or the saddle would not be well located on the lathe bed when working with collets faceplate or very close to the chuck. The backplate idea sounds good, but you won't be able to offset the post so easily unless it's a big one……..added for edit  If it's exactly the same height as the top slide then holders work in both systems without any adjustment.  

 

 

 

Edited By Zan on 29/03/2018 09:33:54

[thaiguzziParticipant @thaiguzzi]

Posted by Zan on 11/03/2018 21:36:09:

1 go fir R8 spindle releasing a Morse taper is difficult and it wasn't designed fir milling it's a locking taper and in a mill spindle boy does it lock my 2mt (below) even with a special ejector was a sod to remove or bash it out with a hammer , bad news.

2 vdf drives are on both my mills, both lathes and drill. Wouldn't be without them

3 I did have a Rishton very similar to the emco but latter has the ekevating handle in an aquard place. But both have round columns. Avoid these

4 DR O straightforward to fit esp the new breed og pf very compact magnetic versions my 3 dro are glass/ ball and bulky

5 if possible view the machines, the spec can lie to you hands on needed

Strange.

My Tom Senior M1 has a 30INT in the horizontal spindle and a 2MT in the vertical S quill feed head. I've had tooling in and out of that 2MT spindle 1000's of times. Never had one stuck. Ever. Slight tap with a brass hammer and the taper is released.

Back to the OP – just my 5 Baht's worth – get a mill with a knee.

[Dean da SilvaParticipant @deandasilva59410]

It took roughly 5 to ten minutes for the castings on the tender to update on the master assembly, but when they did, it looked outstanding. I honestly cannot believe something as simple as running boards done by a complete tyro of an American like myself that has never even seen a British Locomotive in person  would make such a difference. I think it looks magnificent. 

I knew I had done something right when a friend of mine quipped that had I done this before he started on his Hielan Lassie project that he would have ended up with a Hall like this one.

Going forward the locomotive and tender will have to be done separated until the very last rendering is done.

Until next time, best regards, 
-Dean da Silva

 

Edited By Dean da Silva on 10/03/2018 19:37:31

[Roy MParticipant @roym]

Zan, some valid points. I have made a few of these for production use and non has failed. I did add a pin to locate in the keyway as a belt and braces add-on for cnc work but there was no signs of were on the pin. I have used this design successfully with a 150mm dia X 8mm staggered tooth side and face cutter without using a key,(on a Bridgeport), I think that an important factor to consider is the clamping force that can be applied using an M10 thread with a full size hex key, as opposed to the normal wimpy arrangement! And the low profile clamp makes working closer to the vice-jaw possible, giving better support of the workpiece, thus reducing as much vibration as possible.Roy M

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Looks v good Michael I like the robust shank, although I would make it to 3/4" for the R8 collet. I particularly like the standard cap head for locking, better than the M8 cks cap screw in my commercial arbour (which I don't like it's getting worn due to its smaller AF dimension). I would also make the shank longer, the short ones mentioned above often gave problems with finding adequate vice clearance.  Regarding a possible key, it would have to be locked into the cap to allow for different saw widths. Question, would a carefully positioned round key work? Fitted into a hole drilled through the cap into the body so it was half in each

Edited By Zan on 09/03/2018 18:48:36

[shaun meakinParticipant @shaunmeakin78815]

CuP Alloys, the UK’s Number 1 supplier of silver solder to the Model Engineer, are delighted to announce they will be attending the 38th Stoomgroep Zuid Spring exhibition 18th March, at Loon op Zand 10am – 5pm.

We will have on sale an extensive range of silver solders, soft solders, fluxes and other brazing materials. As well as the every popular brazing hearth, all at special exhibition discounted prices (plus of course no shipping charge).

There will also be technical experts on the stand to answer any questions you may have about the soldering or brazing process. If you would like to pre-order anything for collection at the exhibition (at the discounted prices), or if you require any further information please do not hesitate to contact us.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I am no expert with slitting saws but I am tending to agree with Zan – a slipping cutter is better than a shattered one, should the blade grab. There never was a keyway on the Centec 1” arbors, as far as I know. Most hobby mills don’t have to dissipate serial kilowatts before approaching a stalling situation!

Remember, here, the cross section of a 1 1/4” arbor is more than 50% greater than that of the 1”. The1 1/4” usually have a keyway.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

agreed Andrew, but most arbours now don't have the keyway. I cut a 3/32 slot today 3/4 deep at 100 rpm single cut without any problems or slippage

Edited By Zan on 06/03/2018 14:27:18

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I use sulphuric acid. Very effective at removing the mess it comes off as very thin flakes. Also discovered by chance that it also removes the black mill scale found on thicker steel plate, a tiny rub with the finger will remove it with ease. Obviously take sensible precautions and rinse well. Essential to oil or prime the component straight away or it will quickly gains red colour!

Edited By Zan on 04/03/2018 20:57:33

[Anonymous]

Posted by Zan on 04/03/2018 09:34:59:

Speed and depth of cut is usually limited by stopping the saw slipping in the holder…………..

That's why manufacturers provide a cutout for a key.

Andrew

[ZanParticipant @zan]

The uc100 needs a specific Mach 3 obtainable from their website. I have problems with mine with "uc100 not detected" it's been tracked down to the USB cable not being fully secure in the uc100 dongle it's a poor connection. It gets lost say every 10-15 startups

Check there are two LEDs lit on the dongle itself

Edited By Zan on 03/03/2018 18:34:41

[David ColwillParticipant @davidcolwill19261]

Posted by Robin on 27/02/2018 09:45:00:

I felt a sudden, irresistible urge to shop. I think I just paid 30 quid for a pointed stick that might be useful for scraping gunge off stuff

*LINK*

Possibly foolish but I couldn't help myself. It is the most exquisitely fashioned, pointed, scrapy thing I have ever seen in my life

Lets face it we all need a pointy scrapey thing! Are you going to keep it for special pointy scrapey jobs or will it be used for all? I have to admit to being slightly envious and am eagerly awaiting updates on this.

Regards David.

Ps I think this merits its own thread!

[RobinParticipant @robin]

I felt a sudden, irresistible urge to shop. I think I just paid 30 quid for a pointed stick that might be useful for scraping gunge off stuff

*LINK*

Possibly foolish but I couldn't help myself. It is the most exquisitely fashioned, pointed, scrapy thing I have ever seen in my life