Search Results for 'zan'

[Bob WorsleyParticipant @bobworsley31976]

Jason, you are correct, the throatplate is in compression against the barrel. I had assumed that the throatplate was curved to fit on the outside of the barrel. This is an insignificant difference that could have ramifications? Not noticed that the instructions were to position it as drawn. The Allchin is drawn similarly.

Duncan, the most highly stressed joint in a static engine is the longitudinal barrel seam, but how does this change if you are driving it over rough ground, or even a road?

FEA! Count me out. But why does the barrel show patches of blue and green? The whole shell is pressurised to the same pressure, so variations like that show something os wrong with the calculations?

Zan, narrowing the firebox rather than the water spaces is obviously the way to go, get no water movement at all in 1.5mm. I don't dispute that many, tens of thousands, of boilers have been made, it was the question in the ME I was echoing, where are they? I rather suspect that more get scrapped than run an engine. Nothing to back it up, but the always repeated how to stop leaks with every design. One was to put some bran, or something, inside and pressurise it whilst shaking.

I don't wish to take on the whole ME community about boilers, of which I have made none, but they are expensive in materials, solder, gas, time and everything else and didn't want a dud. I decided to make a couple of Minnie boilers, simply because they were small and would cost around £350 each, before trying the BB boiler, £1000+?

SoD makes the statement that copper tears slowly. From where does he get that fact? Used to have lots of The Engineer, and read the explosion reports, and the size of the area that the bits were thrown. Iron is much stronger than copper yet it didn't seem to stop an explosive explosion. Go and read the srticle about the failing boilers made with Silfos, weeping joints, would have been interesting to have pressurised them until they failed.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Bob, look at the drawing at the end of page 3 of this thread

Let us assume you use Your 6 mm plates for the firebox not the 2.5mm as specified and 8 mm for the blackhead in order to Maintain the 1.5mm setback beyond the wrapper

your comment about reducing the water space is your initial post is frankly daft It’s already very narrow , keeping the dimensions the same with a solid back head would leave 1.5 mm  Not really enough…….so the firebox back will have to be moved by 6 mm

so in total the firebox will loose 3.5 at each end for the thicker plates, and another 6 as shown above I.e total of 13mm or 1/2” In an already small firebox. Resulting in a reduction of 18% grate area. There will also be a reduction in the overall water capacity don’t forget the overall dimensions of the boiler is from the prototype so it’s fixed

getting most of the plates to fit with your small gap is not so difficult as the copper is extremely workable when properly annealed. Flagging boiler plates isa fascinating exercise on its own As is the process of producing a short bit of seamless tube from flat plate ( raise it and cut the end off even perhaps resulting in thicker wall t than the original sheet )

many many boilers have been produced with flanged plates. We havnt been doing it wrong for the last. hundred or so  years…. don’t  be the soldier who is in step, while the rest of us in the parade are out

Edited By Zan on 18/08/2020 00:22:19

Edited By Zan on 18/08/2020 00:23:58

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Good day,
yesterday, made 16 valve guides for my whittle x2 v8 engine

bad day. Today

Milled the slot perfectly in the centre to align with the 3/16 hole yesterday, but on making the t piece with a 3/16 shaft and the top to fit in the said slot, to stop it turning it didn’t fit.
grrr just discovered my 1/8” side n face cutter is actually 114 thou. (Cheap purchase from exhibition )
all the cam followers are now even more complicated ( very small) as the t will have to be machined offset by 5 thou one side +5 thou tother 5 less From centreline, or do I waste another 15” of 1/2” hex bronze n do them again…..hmmmm well hidden inside……

 

Edited By Zan on 11/08/2020 21:11:15

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

A high status tanzanite sugar scoop.

[Luke MitchellParticipant @lukemitchell30627]

I could feel a little play in the bearing which remained on the spindle as I extracted it and I tried to photograph this to illustrate it. It appears that the gap is something around 0.5mm. I should have used a feeler gauge but I didn't have one to hand – I can try that later. The gap can be seen in the following photograph (the bearing is pushed flush with the spindle on the underside).

I removed the bearings from the spindle, cleaned off the old, grimy oil and put everything in bags for tomorrow. I could see a few high spots, blunt burrs that I can carefully stone down, but mostly the damage was indentation.

Here is the second bearing. This one looks to be in a slightly worse state that the one that remained in the casting. I believe that the damage to the spindle held it in place as it was removed. The same damage rubbed on the bearing as I removed it from the spindle – you can see a spiral where I twisted the bearing free. This is even with a liberal heat using the torch beforehand.

Please let me know what you think/suggest. Is the damage excessive for a usable machine or is this "normal" wear and tear for a machine of this age?

Kind regards

Edited By Luke Mitchell on 30/04/2020 23:45:00

Edited By Luke Mitchell on 30/04/2020 23:45:17

Edited By Luke Mitchell on 30/04/2020 23:46:24

[Brian OldfordParticipant @brianoldford70365]

Posted by Zan on 19/04/2020 21:15:11:

Cracking. That’s a great idea. How will you shield it from all the oil dripping off the tumbler? The bottom inside of mine always has a thick layer of oil on it not excessive oiling, just doing the standard when I remember…..

The tumbler will be removed as stepper reversal can done by electrical switching. If not by the SW, by an additional switch to alter the winding energisation.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

For the labels google water slide decals. You print the artwork onto a special paper. This is then varnished with two coat car top spray varnish from Halfords. Soak in water and the decal will slide off and you gently manoeuvre it into position and gently firm down. Finally spray varnish to seal the lot. It’s very straightforward but practise on scrap first. I tried to see what happened without the spray on the decal, when soaked, it disintegrated to mush. The paper is very cheap compared to what you use!

it gives truly excellent results

dacosta, , I suggested earlier that turning top hat type buttons  which can go through drilled holes will work so they won’t pop out.  Phil indicated the spring on the led board buttons will be sufficient to return it, but obviously you will need to check the sizes with care.  Use plastic if possible, you don’t want any conduction from damp fingers. 

Edited By Zan on 21/01/2020 15:02:28

Edited By Zan on 21/01/2020 15:06:57

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Zan,

I did say earlier, but I used the Green Timesaver.

Brian

[Paul KempParticipant @paulkemp46892]

Zan,

Sorry I don't have the original packaging, I would say it was a fairly course grade though, was originally purchased by a mate for a job on a full size traction engine and he kindly passed on a small amount loose to me for my job. I can try to find out this coming weekend and if I do will let you know.

Paul.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Danny M2Z on 07/01/2020 09:36:39:

Posted by Zan on 06/01/2020 19:42:52:

…

…

This forum is not the place to talk politics, it's about Model Engineering. …

* Danny M *

Trouble is this isn't politics, or shouldn't be. Scientific opinion is clear about the technical cause of global warming. There is hypothesis and theory in the evidence based scientific sense of the words. Unlike man-in-pub opinion which is based on emotion and prejudice. We can do better than that!

No place for emotion when solving technical problems, and Engineers, Model or otherwise, should be careful to exclude it when analysing problems coming up with solutions. The criteria isn't 'do I feel good', it's 'does this match the facts and will this work in the real world'.

I'm nervous that politics is being allowed to suppress a technical problem. Why shouldn't engineers debate technical matters and propose solutions? Could it be the majority prefer to believe the easy reassurances of ignorant politicians? Is debate forbidden because no-one likes being told they're wrong, even if they are!

I suggest Climate Change is no more or less political than any other technical issue. For example, it would be foolish for Moderators to ban threads on electrical matters just because my easily offended cult fervently believes Ohms Law to be wrong. (Obviously the scientific evidence supporting Ohms Law is complete rubbish because Carbon Fibre has negative resistance. That's why my central heating broke down. It's failure had nothing to do with me saving a few quid by neglecting it…)

Dave

[Danny M2ZParticipant @dannym2z]

Posted by Zan on 06/01/2020 19:42:52:

My sis lives in Auckland is so bad that it’s affecting her there in New Zealand , 2000 or so miles away. The sky is orange and stinks of smoke..

Here are a few before and after photos taken from my verandah. The trout was from a few years ago. – After, still from the same location but just taken a few days ago.

This forum is not the place to talk politics, it's about Model Engineering. There are probably a lot of places online for people so inclined to discuss the whys and wherefores of what is happening.

My immediate problem is how to help the victims.

Managed to score/beg a heap of board games and packs of cards (from local business's that I shop at) which went down very well at the local evacuation center, As I learned in the Australian Army, people get bored just sitting around doing nothing.

There is a bit of a lull at the moment so warnings are being downgraded a little but things are set to get a bit warmer later this week.

TV showed a map of the fires in Vic and overlaid it with a map of Belgium which fitted in easily.

Still rather live here than in Belgium though (I have been there). Terrible beer!

* Danny M *

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Bryan and Paul K . What grade did you use?

 

i will contact the sellers, but if people have actually used it on our situation the advice here is much better from the end user thanks for the link great help!  It’s packed with loads of info and it will take some digesting!

Paul L. , I have also used valve grinding compound on the cam operated stainless on bronze inlet valve seats ( there’s no exhaust in a uniflow) . I wasn’t happy with the possibility of embedding the abrasive which does not degrade in the same way as timesaver. In this position it’s actually directly in the cylinder., in any case I have no idea what the actual garage the “fine” and “coarse” is!

Edited By Zan on 06/01/2020 18:59:50

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Hello Zan,

I have used to to lap both the saddle and tailstock to the bed on an old Churchill Cub lathe I am renovating. I know that sounds like a foolish thing to do but the amount of material removed would be hard to measure.

The quality of the fit afterwards was quite remarkable, these components just glide over each other on oiled surfaces

In this case I used the green Timesaver

Regards Brian

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hi Zan,

Thanks for your help.

Zan: My led and key board came in two days so why risk it?
DC: I hope the one I ordered takes only two days to arrive … Usually it takes longer.

Zan: Have you got the stepper turning?
DC: I haven't reached that stage yet.

Dias Costa

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Posted by Zan on 30/12/2019 17:21:45:

but I suspect a drippy joint on the interface board

? Drippy? I typed dry But it won’t let me edit!

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hi Phil,

Thanks for your help.
I've tested the board and as far as I can understand it works well. The voltages are correct and once mounted on the TI board, the power already reaches LED1 and LED3.

It happened to me the same as to Zan ("the display connector pins projection under the board fouls and shorts into one of the small jumpers on the board if it's pushed fully home&quot, but tomorrow I will cut the pin concerned so that the assembly stay robust.

If it wasn't for Zan's message I would still not be aware of the problem, because I don't have the display yet so I can understand what's going on…

For those who have not yet assembled the board and since the terminal block once assembled covers some of the information printed on the board, it may be a good idea to take note of that information before mounting for ease of use.

Dias Costa

[Phil GrantParticipant @philgrant54580]

Zan,

Have you got the logic level the right way for the stepper driver module, I can't remember which way they should be off the top of my head.

Have you connected with a common ground or a common 5V?

Phil

[Enough!Participant @enough]

Posted by Zan on 20/12/2019 17:20:59:

..our phone is on permanent answer phone

You obviously don't have a spouse for whom it is physically impossible to ignore a ringing phone.

[egaParticipant @ega]

Posted by Zan on 16/12/2019 23:09:41:

I don’t think it’s really important as you only drive the saddle in one direction at a time so any backlash is catered for each time you change the direction it’s being moved. It is of course consistent in value. As ega says, adjust the nylock nut in any case

However, in their "blurb" Hemingway do say:

"Axial slip of the leadscrew is a common cause of thread inaccuracies. A slight oscillation imparted to the screw will cause a periodic error in pitch. Georg Schlesinger adopted a pass-off criteria of half of one ten thousandth of an inch of slip for the 1920's German machine tool industry. To adjust clearance in the right hand bearing of the Myford Series 7 leadscrew is a difficult balancing act, generally resulting in excessive thrust loads."

What do others think?

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Posted by OuBallie on 30/08/2014 16:33:44:

Another thought for the web designer is to include a 'Preview' button if possible.

 

 

Just found this thread and I wholeheartedly agree with this, a preview would remove the frequent edit info.

edit.     Just like this one like a number of mine for typos or silly auto fill 

Edited By Zan on 16/12/2019 23:14:27

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Watch lathes often use WW collets which are as Zan says a draw-in type with 8mm shank. They are not cheap but more precise than (cheap) ER types, and only hold one diameter. For some more info see –

**LINK**

For a design of a spindle which I think uses the same system see the Quorn drawings. Very easy to machine the collet seating, and the collets use a drawbar.

[Michael Edwards 1Participant @michaeledwards1]

Zan, yes and no. I like the idea of watch making and I think the lathes are a work of art. I would like to make something that can be used but not used everyday or last 100 years but I want it to be functional. I have an issue and that issue is I get stuck up on numbers. If something says it has to be 10mm then that’s not 10.1 or 10.02. So I thought if I could make a lathe that could make a clock or a watch then I wouldn’t be so stuck up on numbers and accept things.

[Pete RimmerParticipant @peterimmer30576]

Posted by Zan on 12/12/2019 18:18:22:

It was difficult enough to get all the bores and 45 degree seats concentric in the first place, I think the only way to lap them is how we used to grind car engine valves, ie one pare against the other. This is why I want to use Timesaver, as it’s non- embedding and it wears down to nothing. Separate laps for these components would be very difficult to make and get a fit. But thanks.

Ah, I'm with you. I thought it was just the diameters you were lapping. It makes sense to lap the valve seats together.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

This is the piston for my uniflow engine which I am remaking, incidentally the full assembly has 23 individual pieces of metal including  the fixings!

My question is that I want to lap the fine machined valve heads of bronze into the piston body made from cast iron . So which do I get, the type for ferrous metals or for yellow metals?  In addition for those who have used itimesaver, which grade do you suggest for this task.   The piston is 1.75” diameter

Edited By Zan on 12/12/2019 17:32:45

Edited By Zan on 12/12/2019 17:34:48

[Raphael GolezParticipant @raphaelgolez]

Posted by JohnF on 11/12/2019 14:07:00:

Posted by Zan on 10/12/2019 23:19:25:

That’s the way John I did that recently. But in answering the main question, you have to withdraw the leadscrew to remove the apron. After removing the right bracket, which will be achieved by bending the screw outwards to get the bracket off the dowels. The problem is re assembly. Briefly it goes like this

Edit. Dratt . I should have looked at the link before writing an essay on the difficulty of refitting……deleted!

Edited By Zan on 10/12/2019 23:22:22

There should be 2 tapped holes in the dowels to facilitate removal with a small puller, they are ??BA have to check and you need a piece threaded bar & nut or an allen screw, a tube and a washer. I have heard some machines do not have the tapped hole ??? but never seen one.

John

Hi John you meant to facilitate jacking up the dowels via the thread? It wouldn't be a dowel if it had a thread, instead it would be a tapped hole in which case a bolt would be logical. Mine had a two bolt holding it down and a 2 dowels. To be honest I never attempted to apply force here after removing the 2 bolts. I could not see any thread in the dowels either. Like I said if this is threaded how would you pin the dowel without damaging the thread unless its a threaded bolt you using.

Raphael

Edited By RAPHAEL VAL GOLEZ 1 on 11/12/2019 14:20:45

Edited By RAPHAEL VAL GOLEZ 1 on 11/12/2019 14:21:22

Edited By RAPHAEL VAL GOLEZ 1 on 11/12/2019 14:21:55