Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

I have just upgraded from a C1 to a Sieg SC3 from Arc Eurotrade. Admittedly it is the longer bed versions but you are quite right it is a definite 2 man lift compared to the smaller lathe which i can manage on my own.

The mere fact that I feel the need to upgrade may give well out a message – there is a significant difference in capacity between the two machines, however that does not mean that the smaller lathe is useless.

Within its capacity it is a strong and apparently accurate machine. It has a smaller brushed motor and is definitley low powered, but taking small cuts it can work with steel as well as brass and aluminium.

There is no topslide as standard and while still listed they are expensive (£130+) and hard to find. In its favour however is that the lack of a topslide means that the crossslide has 2 t slots and can be used for boring and facing. Taper turning is quite possible by setting over the tailstock.

The lathe is quite expensive in comparison to the larger 'mini' lathes and some of the accessories that come with them (eg changewheels) are extra on the C1.

In the near future my machine may well appear on an auction site, but the fact that there are few advertised on eBay, and all of those have sold might indicate they are useful to the right person.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

You probably need a raising block, but easy to make one, could use a lump of aluminium, cast iron, or mild steel.

Also if you are using an ER20 collet then I guess it's in an MT2 collet chuck? That will have quite a long overhang which will contribute to the problem. The Myford DH is best used with MT2 collets that fit the arbor direct, as long as your stock fits a standard collet. Options are either the Myford collets with the threaded closer, which are rarer than hen's dentures these days and anyway expensive; or to buy single finger collets like these and use a bit of studding as a drawbar.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Glad that you got it fixed.

Firstly, NEVER use a key with a slitting saw. It is dangerous!

My ex Sentinel, Milling Instructor, at Rolls Royce, gave us this advice/instruction. I was very fortunate, walking past a machine, where a fellow Apprentice had ignored this advice, when the saw shattered. The one half, in many pieces flew up into the roof before falling down, the other half was still rotating on the arbor.

My Slitting Saw arbors are Soft Mandrels, bought fro Arc Euro, which have been turned down for a very short distance, at the end, and then drilled and tapped. A suitable recessed cap has been turned up to grip the saw. The cap is countersunk to take the R H thread Allen screw which clamps the cap to the saw to the arbor..

If I feed too fast and the saw jams, it slips on the arbor, (in the Mill/Drill) doing minimal damage.

The only problem is unscrewing the screw afterwards ti remove the saw. Invariably, this requires the cap to be brutalised with a Mole wrench to get a good enough grip to slacken it.

Howard

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Posted by Duncan Webster 06/06/2019 12:57:16

Thanks John, Warco deny ever having made a GH1000 lathe, so could you just confirm it's centre height,
it looks similar to mine at 5". Looking forward to reading your articles in MEW, at least it is giving me a
handle on stepper motor size.

Hi Duncan,

Here are the original leaflets from 1999 as you can see the GH 1000 swings 13 3/8 inch over the
bedway and 18 1/2 in the gap.The stepper motor that drives the 10 tpi lead screw came from
Arc euro and was 350 Ncm 10 mm shaft 3.36 volt 4.2 amp /phase. As i use Compucut
an early hobby cnc system that is unipolar the output of the motor is slightly less but still
more than enough to do the job.
I see from the pages of lathes .co .uk that the Myford 254 has a protusion where the lead screw
passes through the rear mounting much like the Super 7 lathe.
I have a super 7 lathe that is also part cnc and is driven this way ,the problems in using the original
lead screw is the continual movement and wear of a cnc system as this is always going to be up the chuck
end and also the backlash in the halfnut on the machine,on a gearbox machine such as my GH 1000
there is also the additional drag of driving this around.

John

Edited By John Pace on 06/06/2019 18:33:57

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Just some more photo's of the A2F,with the table right down there is
plenty of daylight under the drill bit ,the raising block is about 4 1/2 inches.
When i converted the machine to part cnc i made some new lead screws
and adjustable backlash nuts and gained a little more table travel to
21 3/4 inch and just over 8 1/4 on the y axis. The original machine nuts
are quite poorly made and fixed .The stepper motors came from Arc Euro
trade triple stack 34's 14 mm shaft 5 volt 6.5 Nm ,they don't sell these
now.The two photo's show the y axis motor tucked under the knee casting,
extending the hand wheel out it fouls the rise and fall handle on the left,the
hand wheel was moved to the right and drives the lead screw through a
pair of gears as i had made some lead screws i could use a right hand screw
for this .The stepper motor drives the lead screw via a toothed belt.
It is an imperial machine and the lead screws are 1/8 pitch the tooth
belt pulleys reduce this to .100 inch pitch.Photo of the x axis motor
both drive through 3/8 L size belts.The brackets are fabricated from
1/8 steel sheet .
With the table right up the two stage lead screw can be seen ,uses
the original lead screw with a fairly short extension piece the same pitch 1/8
inch about 1 1/2 diameter and a new nut fixed to the base.
Will post some more later on.

John

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

Posted by Alex Twigg on 02/06/2019 15:06:43:

Hi,

So, I was hoping for some advice. I want to get ER25 collets for my super 7. I see that I can get a chuck that would go on the thread of the outside of the spindle.

I also found that I could get a MT2 to ER25 collet adaptor that would go straight into the spindle and have a draw bar.

**LINK**

I think I would need to machine or buy a draw bar to work with the super 7, but I was wondering what would be the most accurate way of holding the work?

Any advice welcome. Many thanks Alex

Go for a 2 piece ER collet chuck screwed to the spindle nose. The reason for 2 part is you can turn the register yourself (as you would with a scroll chuck backplate) to ensure concentricity. Myford do them if you cannot find anyone else.

regards Martin

 

Edited By Martin Kyte on 03/06/2019 14:01:40

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

If you're die thread cutting on a lathe remember to use the tailstock barrel to keep the die holder square to the lathe axis; or better still, make your self a tailstock die holder, plenty of posts on this, also these can be bought very reasonably priced from the likes of Arc Euro or eBay… usual disclaimer applies.

George.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

One of the backplates I use has been adapted to take a 4" chuck which was lying around and alternatively, the ER25 collet plate. 

I also can recommend Arceurotrade, they are also very quick delivering.

Edited By old mart on 03/06/2019 10:15:45

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

First thing is to choose a backplate to suit the lathe. Arc Euro sell two threaded for Myford spindles, 4" diameter and 5" diameter. The backplate is drilled by the customer to make an adaptor by drilling holes to match those on the collet chuck: the two are bolted together and mounted as a unit on the spindle. The customer also turns a register on the backplate to fit into the recess on the back of the collet chuck.

I'd buy the middle collet chuck (95mm) to fit the 4" backplate, though the 100mm chuck is also a reasonable match (4" is 101.6mm). You can turn the backplate down to make it match the chuck if you want.

Dave

[Alex TwiggParticipant @alextwigg67363]

Posted by John Hinkley on 02/06/2019 17:30:08:

You can't go far wrong if you order from Arc Euro Trade. They have a very good reputation and everything that I have ordered from there has been excellent quality. Not the cheapest, maybe, but you know what they say about buying cheap . . . .

John

Hi John.

I've checked out the website, seems great. I don't mind spending a bit more for quality.

I looked at the chucks and what is the reason for choosing a larger sized one for ER25?

Or do the different sizes work for different lathes?

I'm sorry if these are mundane questions. This is my first foray into lathes. I know how to use them but the ones I use are ready to use. All I do is throw in my tool steel and roll!

Many thanks

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

You can't go far wrong if you order from Arc Euro Trade. They have a very good reputation and everything that I have ordered from there has been excellent quality. Not the cheapest, maybe, but you know what they say about buying cheap . . . .

John

[Alex TwiggParticipant @alextwigg67363]

Hi,

So, I was hoping for some advice. I want to get ER25 collets for my super 7. I see that I can get a chuck that would go on the thread of the outside of the spindle.

I also found that I could get a MT2 to ER25 collet adaptor that would go straight into the spindle and have a draw bar.

**LINK**

I think I would need to machine or buy a draw bar to work with the super 7, but I was wondering what would be the most accurate way of holding the work?

Any advice welcome. Many thanks Alex

[HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint]

The one usually sold on ebay as a set for around £40 is alloy. The one sold by Arc euro and chronos for around £90 is steel.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Rockingdodge on 31/05/2019 10:03:41:

Hi, a chap from Denmark has bought my Simplex chassis and box of and parts, his sister lives in Maidstone. Is there a way (courier etc.) that would transport it from Herefordshire safely.

Any suggestions (sensible) would be gratefully received.

Roger

Roger, you're a naughty boy!

The most important factors are the size, weight and delicacy of the package and you've kept them all secret, also the destination, Maidstone or Denmark?

Assuming it's heavier than anything the Post Office would accept as a parcel, here's what DHL recommend as packaging for up to 300kg, which seems typical. Once it's packaged acceptably, I don't think Denmark is more problematic than Maidstone other than the cost. Most couriers are international.

Getting the best price may be more work. Although the internet is your friend, I don't find getting and comparing quotes to be particularly easy, mainly because the small print is rarely like-for-like. There are firms who sort it out for you, like this example, but I've no idea how good they are or what the cost would be. Try pushing the buttons and see what they say.

Best act quickly if the destination is Denmark. A Hard Brexit, which is possible in October, will make moving items to Europe more complicated because it introduces a border, customs, tariffs, and extra paperwork and there may be temporary difficulties whilst the details are sorted out.

Dave

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

For what it's worth, I've had both on my lathe – a 9 x 20 Asian import – at one time or another and I much prefer the wedge type. The Dixon holders were awkward to make and the quality of purchased ones varied from one supplier to another. I bought an 000 size wedgie from Arc Eurotrade several years ago and have been very pleased with it. No connection apart from customer satisfaction, etc.

John

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Those that are not already on Arc Euro Trade's e-mail list may like to take advantage of their latest "Magnificent 7" promo code. Note only applies to web based orders and not available on machines.

With a name like that I now expect a flood of Cowboy jokes

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Neil actually has the SX2 and I have an X3 one, basically all the same box of tricks but there are different adaptors as part of the kit to fit the different size tables on each machine.

They are better suited to fast feeds and light cuts as they lack torque at slow feed rates and are really moving too fast to take heavy cuts without crashing the machine. The gear head DC motor inside would be better with a lower reduction ratio so you could have usable feed rates when the motor is in its power band.

The SX3.5DZP comes with one fitted as standard but that also has a 5000rpm max spindle speed as opposed to the 1600rpm of the SX4 so you can get a more sensible chip load with the fast feeds which makes it a more usable accesory on that machine.

Click the "More" tab on this page for a bit more info on the feed

Edited By JasonB on 29/05/2019 16:18:40

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

William, I have an Axminster MiniMill and when I bust my gear, easy done, I bought a replacement from ArcEurotrade, can’t remember how cheap it was but they are brilliant at responding to orders, I think it was here the day after I ordered. If you go on Arc’s website they have a comprehensive parts list for the minimill and ordering couldn’t be simpler. At least you can get running again until you decide what or which material you will replace it with.

Dave W

[Paul KempParticipant @paulkemp46892]

William,

If you look at Arc Eurotrade web site you might just find a picture of a mill very similar to yours and if you look at the parts list you may well find they have exactly what you need sat on their shelf which for less time and probably less money they could send you, over you making your own.

Paul.

[Roger WoollettParticipant @rogerwoollett53105]

If you keep them sharp you do not need a wheel. Get some diamond laps like these

Diamond laps

I have a similar size lathe and find all I need is a quick rub with the finest grade to keep tools sharp.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Nowt wrong wi' Chinese; what space do you have; have you taken into consideration tooling costs, that could well end up more than the cost of the machine, as many of us can verify. If I had the room I would have seriously looked at Boxford, Colchester Student, Harrison 250 / 300 et al. Chester, Warco, Axminister often advertise 'open' days for prospective customers, if you are near to any of those it would be worth going & have a look, ask questions, try one out etc.

I have a WM250V-F & a WM16 & both have done what I have given them without complaint, remember the old cliché 'can't get a Rolls Royce for a mini price'. There is a lot of 'Tat' out there & admittedly most is from China but they must account for at least 80% of world trade, followed by, Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, Pakistan, India, Bangla Desh, somewhere in there is Europe, now Malaysia, Indonesia, Cambodia, are in the market too; would their goods 'stick in your craw' too ?. Have a look at what you / your Mrs bought from M & S, John Lewis, Barker & Stonehouse, even Primark, Wilko, Pound land, look at their label… 'Made in / product of…..one of the above !. Usual disclaimer applies for all ref.

Whatever you end up with I'm sure you'll be happy with, & with what you make, after all it's a hobby, enjoy,

I'll put my hat & coat on now…

George

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

As the job has caused trouble on a Cowells and an ML10, both of which are up to cutting Silver Steel, I wonder if the problem is entirely due to choice of knives? Old-timers ground a huge variety of shapes and sizes to get the job done, and carbide inserts are even more diverse. I still get into trouble through not changing cutter to suit the job. (Perhaps I should order a quick change tool-post). Bother getting big tools into tight spaces, not getting enough reach from a small tool, trying to finish with a roughing tool, and wasting time while a baby insert eats it's way through a lot of metal. Etc.

Grinding HSS is an acquired skill, and it seems not everyone is good at it, blush! Partly for that reason I use carbide most of the time. To get the necessary range of cutting options I have holders in 6, 10 and 12mm for round, triangular, square and sharp inserts. (Not in every size!) Although I own a good selection, I still occasionally find myself grinding HSS.

Jason pictured two cutters shaped to tackle the problem. My preference would be the sharp carbide insert because I have one and it's easy. Second choice would be to grind HSS to shape. Although lots of chaps will tell you grinding is easy, it would take cack-handed me a while to get a satisfactory cutting profile on Jason's HSS example. Try it and see. You might be a natural, but don't despair if sharpening HSS takes more practice than you were expecting. Sparey's 'The Amateur's Lathe' is helpful.

Unless a clockmaker knows different I wouldn't put collets in a tail-stock and then make centres to fit them. I'd buy a set of live centres to fit the ML10. If necessary centres can be made to fit that.

Dave

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

The facemill came from ARC Eurotrade. Which probably makes it pretty good.

At 0.5mm I get little vibration and a reasonably decent finish. At 1mm I get a bit of vibration and a slightly rougher finish. But the controller keeps cutting out with an overload.

I have more vibration issues at 1000 rpm and I had bigger issues until I turned the (triangular) inserts round and forced them into place.

I think the facemill is OK actually – just that the CMD10 is not the brawniest in the block.

I'm going to see if I can make a start on the cylinder cap now – that doesn't need a mill! And perhaps the piston.

On that, I'm trying to work out the best way of connecting the crosshead, con piston rod and piston.

I am planning to bolt the piston rod and piston together. I will either solder the piston rod to the crosshead or thread the end of the piston rod and tap the crosshead – and secure with a lock nut.

One of my (non electronic) advisors, Richard Gibbon in York, recommended that I bolt the piston to the piston rod and then bash the nut to keep it in place. The idea is that you can then mount the piston rod in a collet and finish the outside spot on for the bore size. That makes some sense, but then I'd need to thread the piston rod so that I could assemble the whole lot through the bottom cylinder plate.

Well, off to discard some perfectly good cast iron…

Iain

Iain

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Welcome to the forum Ian,

If the reamers have a tang, then you will probably need a tanged and slotted adaptor, which won't take a drawbar.

Because there are no side loads on a reamer, you shouldn't need to use a drawbar (most MT socket drills don't have drawbars).

This does mean you will probably have to remove the drawbar to use the reamer.

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 24/05/2019 22:10:47