Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Mark RandParticipant @markrand96270]

One could ask Ketan at Arceuro, since he was the one to introduce them to the UK, but I don't think he sells them any more.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Somewhere I have seen what you describe, either home-made or as a product, afraid I can't remember where.

 

Aha!  Our friendly universal supplier.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Expanding-Mandrels/Straight-Shank-Expanding-Mandrels-Tap-On-Tap-Off-

Edited By John Haine on 03/07/2019 14:58:34

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

Bought a Clarkson about 15 years ago and done all my cutters on that, ends and flutes, it was a pain swapping setups over so last year purchased one of Arc Euros End mill grinders the EMG20, a superb piece of kit in my opinion, the Clarkson can now stay set up permanently for doing flutes. No connection to Arc, just a satisfied customer.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Blue Heeler on 29/06/2019 08:52:15:

Do you use Chinese HSS or a quality brand HSS for your lathe bits?

…

I wonder where your 'quality brand HSS' was actually made? There's a good chance it's from China too! Most old certainties about cost/quality/brand and country of manufacture have been destroyed by Globalisation.

That said, I've not bought cheap HSS off the web or at shows. Most of mine came unbranded from ArcEuroTrade who have a good reputation for not selling rubbish. Perhaps that's the secret!

Dave

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

I have European made HSS toolbits as well as some from ArcEurotrade, can't say I have found much difference. I tend to use carbide tipped tool for roughing and HSS for the finishing cuts.

Thor

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Well the postie finally came and dropped off a box with some goodies inside.

Yesterday I had opened that M10 hole out to 10.3mm ( actually 13/32" ) and tried my taper tap in it which has no make on it and don't recall where or when it arrived in the workshop as it is not a size I use that much. I tried two chucks both keyed and keyless but it just stuck and span in the chuck, changing to an ER32 wich just tripped the machine instead when it got too much.

So armed with the set of spiral flute taps from ARC Euro Trade's new range and suitable tapping drills I popped a 10.2mm hole into another offcut of 1/4" steel, reverted back to the keyed chuck that came with the SX2.7 to hold the M12 tap, set machine running at 150rpm and had a go. Slowed a bit at first but then just powered through the hole with a clean looking thread produced.

 

I would say that is about on the limit for what this machine could do and would not want to do a lot of them in quick succession, 10.2mm does give a high percentage thread depth and that could always be upped a bit to make life easier on the mill but may try at a few other speeds which could prevent that initial slowing. Will test them further and hopefully have something to go in the next but one MEW.

 

J

 

PS Nice boxes too.

Edited By JasonB on 27/06/2019 17:56:48

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Posted by JasonB on 27/06/2019 08:54:34:

The tapping mode also alters the torque settings so that helps.

I have some taps from ARC's new range coming so will see how they perform both under power and by hand.

Yes I was looking at the new range from your previous link, the prices seem very good too. For machine tapping spiral flute or spiral point..? I will be looking at M6 and smaller.

Ron

Our posts crossed Jason, I see the last one re Ketan and info, thanks Emgee

Edited By Ron Laden on 27/06/2019 09:12:16

Edited By Ron Laden on 27/06/2019 09:17:20

Edited By Ron Laden on 27/06/2019 09:18:42

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The tapping mode also alters the torque settings so that helps.

I have some taps from ARC's new range coming so will see how they perform both under power and by hand.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Posted by JasonB on 26/06/2019 11:21:41:

I had an enquiry on the video I did of the SX2.7 threading aluminium using the tapping mode as to whether it would also tap steel. So I did a quick video yesterday of it tapping M6 x 1 into steel and then there is always one who asks if it will do bigger/better etc

So I have joined these two together.

Material 1/4" EN3 steel, drop of CT90 tapping fluid.

M6 x 1 spiral flute tap into 5.0mm hole @ 200rpm

M10 x 1.5 taper hand tap into 8.5mm hole @ 150rpm

Seemed quite happy to do them both though a spiral point or spiral flute would have been preferred choice for the M10 thread if I had one. Anyone in the market for these type of taps or the traditional taper, second and bottom taps may want to take a look at ARC Euro Trades site as they have just added a new range of threading tools to their range here

Edited By JasonB on 26/06/2019 16:26:45

Your test prompted me to see what the SX2 is capable of and I think M6 in alu which it handles well is probably its limit though I havnt tried M6 in steel as yet. I did try M10 in alu but it didnt like that at all and it just about coped with M8 in alu but not ideal. The SX2 is a smaller machine than the SX2.7 of course with less power so I couldnt expect too much plus your machine has a tapping facilty which I dont. I,m guessing I should be able to thread steel M5 and smaller, will have to give it a try.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I had an enquiry on the video I did of the SX2.7 threading aluminium using the tapping mode as to whether it would also tap steel. So I did a quick video yesterday of it tapping M6 x 1 into steel and then there is always one who asks if it will do bigger/better etc

So I have joined these two together.

Material 1/4" EN3 steel, drop of CT90 tapping fluid.

M6 x 1 spiral flute tap into 5.0mm hole @ 200rpm

M10 x 1.5 taper hand tap into 8.5mm hole @ 150rpm

Seemed quite happy to do them both though a spiral point or spiral flute would have been preferred choice for the M10 thread if I had one. Anyone in the market for these type of taps or the traditional taper, second and bottom taps may want to take a look at ARC Euro Trades site as they have just added a new range of threading tools to their range here

Edited By JasonB on 26/06/2019 16:26:45

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

" Thinking of space(lack of) I suspect for reasons I don't yet know a milling machine dosen't make a good drilling machine either? Perhaps they don't take Jacobs type chucks…. "

Ah, now, you CAN use a milling-machine as a precision drilling-machine; co-ordinates and all.

'

In fact a typical milling task may involve drilling and tapping several holes as well as squaring the outline to shape and size, cutting slots etc., all in one piece of metal.

No, they don't take Jacobs chucks directly in the spindle. Instead, the chuck fits onto a special adaptor with the Jacobs nose and an appropriate taper shank with internal draw-bar thread to fit the spindle; and it stays on the adaptor. You remove the adaptor from the mill, not drill-chuck from adaptor.

Just make sure you don't spoil the machine by drilling too deep and into the table!

'

Milling-machines generally don't have a chuck as such, like a drilling-machine. Instead the cutters, drill-chucks etc are held by interchangeable tooling that fits into one of various standard types of spindle taper. The two standards you and I are most likely to encounter are:

Morse (MT3 being perhaps the most common for model-engineering milling-machines).

R8. This was the standard on Bridgeport milling-machines once very common in the engineering trade, and on the Myford VMC mill. (The one I have)

You might encounter ISO – number; the modern industrial standard particularly suited to high-performance CNC machines. I don't know if any of the model-engineering trade machines use them: some of the larger, latest might.

New and second-hand Morse and R8 tooling is quite easy to find. The advantage of R8 is that the taper is steeper than Morse, so much less likely to jam in the spindle; but Morse tapers means some tooling is interchangeable with other machines, like most small lathes.

'

You can also add to milling-machines, accessories like vices designed for that task, rotary tables for cutting arcs and drilling accurately-spaced rings of holes, and angle-plates which at their simplest hold a work-piece on its side.

On-line catalogues like those of Arc Eurotrade have photos of milling- (and other) machine tooling, as examples.

[Ross Lloyd 1Participant @rosslloyd1]

Hi

I already own a manual mill and lathe (warco Wm18 and warco WM250V)

I am now looking into buying a home CNC and the one that springs to mind is the tormach PCNC 440.

However, I see there is no UK or europe dealer, and as a result must factor in import costs. I think this boils down to two questions then really:

1) Has anyone recently imported a PCNC 440, that can provide an all-in cost for purchase and import duty / VAT / shipping / other hidden fees?

2) Are there alternatives? I looked at the Sieg KX1 but note arc euro trade dropped them as they are too hard to support. Are any of the Wabecos comparable to the 440? I would say all of the Haas's are out of my price range (their quote and price list pages refuse to work for me), lets say max £7000.

I could convert my WM18, but I'm not convinced I will end up with something too great as a result.

Thanks for reading

Edited By Ross Lloyd 1 on 24/06/2019 16:15:51

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

I have used 2mm and 3mm solid carbide cutters with great success for cutting ports, I obtained my cutters from Arc Eurotrade and was pleased with both the quality and speed of delivery, no connection to company just a very satisfied customer.

[Mike DonnerstagParticipant @mikedonnerstag]

I am looking to purchase an ER chuck, set of collets and backplate from ArcEuro for use on my Myford Super 7. However, as neither Myford nor RDG offer anything above ER32 specifically for the Super 7 I wondered whether the ER40 is deemed too unwieldy. Does anyone have any views on this?

Specifically, I am wondering whether the benefit of being able to hold, say, 1" material accurately in the ER40 chuck, as opposed to the more limited (3/4&quot capacity of the ER32 chuck, would outweigh the drawback of the additional chuck size (and of course the higher cost) of an ER40 system. I realise that stock at these diameters would not be able to pass into the lathe spindle's bore.

The only ER system I currently own is an ER20 MT chuck that I originally purchased for my woodworking lathe.

Many thanks,

Mike

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

Does your MT2 arbor have a male 1.5" X 18 thread? That size seems to be a standard for smaller boring heads. Arceurotrade sell replacement arbors with that thread. If so, the MT3 one could be replaced if you have to destroy it.

If there is a flange on the arbor where it screws into the boring head, a couple of flats could be milled in the flange to hold it securely in a vise. Then more torque could be applied to the head.

[martin perman 1Participant @martinperman1]

Posted by An Other on 19/06/2019 18:41:03:

After much searching, I found a repair kit in the UK that had been imported from the US – it uses a sort of gun to push soft rubber mushroom shaped plugs through the tyre from the outside, head-first, then the tyre pressure forces the expanded plug head into contact with the inside wall of the tyre. It works, but cost 48 pounds about 8 years ago, with sufficient plugs to repair 20 holes. An extra bag of 20 plugs was another 10 pounds.

Eventually, the tyres reached a point where I was putting plugs virtually alongside each other, so I decided to get new tyres – they cost just under 1000 Euros for the four tyres (two large and two small), and that was a (relatively) good offer. I am now going to buy several goats – they have to be cheaper and more efficient!.

I don't want to put you off using these mower tyres, just to give warning. I think if you can get tyres for the 'road-going' type of ATV, then they will be made of rubber, and this problem will not occur, but they may still be expensive.

The repair kit you describe is used by the AA, my Daughter had a puncture caused by a screw and she could'nt change the wheel because unknown to her a tyre company had buggered the security nut whilst changing the tyre and even Dad couldn't undo it without damaging the alloy rim, the AA was called and the technician could'nt undo the nut so he produced the tool to put a plug inside from the outside but stated it was a get you home fix, 50mph max, and didnt use adhesives so could leak, the next morning she had to pump the tyre up to get the car to her Ford dealer to remove the nut and fit her a new tyre.

Martin P

[An OtherParticipant @another21905]

I don't know if this si relevant to the thread. I have a ride-on lawnmower, and use it to cut a field which also has about 100 plum trees. The plum trees have vicious spikes on them, and these inevitably end up on the ground, and of course, then end up in the mower tyres. The tyres puncture extremely easily – they are not made of rubber, but some variety of nylon, and apparently have little or no resistance to penetration. At first I found it was impossible to get them repaired – patches won't stick because of the nylon, and our local tyre repair man tried using plugs, but could not get them to stay in place, because the rubber plugs apparently didn't have enough friction against the nylon tyres.

After much searching, I found a repair kit in the UK that had been imported from the US – it uses a sort of gun to push soft rubber mushroom shaped plugs through the tyre from the outside, head-first, then the tyre pressure forces the expanded plug head into contact with the inside wall of the tyre. It works, but cost 48 pounds about 8 years ago, with sufficient plugs to repair 20 holes. An extra bag of 20 plugs was another 10 pounds.

Eventually, the tyres reached a point where I was putting plugs virtually alongside each other, so I decided to get new tyres – they cost just under 1000 Euros for the four tyres (two large and two small), and that was a (relatively) good offer. I am now going to buy several goats – they have to be cheaper and more efficient!.

I don't want to put you off using these mower tyres, just to give warning. I think if you can get tyres for the 'road-going' type of ATV, then they will be made of rubber, and this problem will not occur, but they may still be expensive.

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

Posted by Haggerleases on 15/06/2019 22:48:06:

I'm going to cop some flak for this, but buying a reasonably 'big ticket' item like a Chinese lathe, smacks to me of another example of the 'baby boomers' and yes, successive generations too, selling the world down the river for their own brief amusement (again).

I've been on the Warco site, The Axminster site, and so on, and my finger has hovered over the 'buy' button many times, but I just can't bring myself to do it.

…Ducking and covering.

No flak from me, but some confusion. When I was researching a first lathe purchase (13-14 years ago I think) there was a lot of stuff on t'internet about Far Eastern machines being a 'kit of parts'. I think it is generally accepted that things have moved on since then and that the manufacturers have responded by improving quality control. In your comment about the OP's particular and unusual problem you seem to have characterised the whole machine as 'a pile of crap' on the basis of the fault. However Warco acknowledged the problem and responded promptly with a replacement and the problem is resolved. It shouldn't have happened. But…

Scared by the reputation of far Eastern machines I bought a Proxxon PD400 which has about the same capacity /weight as a Far Eastern minilathe. About four times the price (around 2500 including 4-jaw and steadies) at the time, but I was paying for out-of the-box European (Austrian) quality. Couldn't get the gib on the cross slide right, I put it down to stupidity /inexperience, Eventually I tracked it down to a bent cross-slide feed screw. Proxxon's UK agent promptly replaced it with another bent screw, then another. I gave up and made a straight one myself. Since when it's been a lovely (if overpriced) little lathe. The rest of it is fine. So it isn't just Far Eastern manufacturers who make mistakes.

My 'biggest ticket' workshop purchase so far has been a 3000 GBP 12×36 Far Eastern gear head lathe – it's as accurate as the Proxxon I am grieved to say. But much bigger! Over the years I have pushed much more than that into the Far Eastern economy by buying low ticket items I suspect.

I'm confused because I don't understand if your reluctance to hit 'buy' is because you  think you'll get a 'pile of crap' from Warco or others (unlikely) or you have difficulties with supporting the economy of a country with a political system which you don't like. In the latter case it's possibly not an appropriate subject for this forum.

Robin.

 

 

Edited By Robin Graham on 16/06/2019 02:15:44

Edited By Robin Graham on 16/06/2019 02:19:05

[LainchyParticipant @lainchy]

Update from me… I got the Arceuro 250-000 toolpost and its perfect Had a good friend of mine make a 6mm thick square washer 44mm square, from mild steel. It's then a straight swap. The Warco wm180 or the Chester DB7vs (mine) has a thick base where the toolpost shaft is screwed into. I looked at the 250-000 when it arrived and ruled out machining that. Thought maybe I could remake the base… but that is part of the compound. The square 6mm thick washer is perfect.

[Henry BrownParticipant @henrybrown95529]

Posted by Hopper on 15/06/2019 08:25:17:

Posted by Mike guitar on 14/06/2019 22:49:22:

You might do well to follow up wit ArcEurotrade. They have a good track record among forum members here.

Only problem with the ARC machines is that they are a little small, especially as Mike is thinking Bridgeport size or similar. I had the same issue, just not enough space for a Bridgeport, the SX4 is as near as was commercially available at the time.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Mike guitar on 14/06/2019 22:49:22:

Well done on that Henry. I quite like the look of the seig machines but was looking at non electronic control machines.heck I spent my life fixing electronics so I should have some idea if a boa d failed and assuming spares hard to come by. I just liked the idea of belt drive. I've not seen the Axminster seig but have checked arceurotrade youtube video and they do look nice.. I think the machines I'm looking at are distributed by Weiss in China

You might do well to follow up wit ArcEurotrade. They have a good track record among forum members here.

[Mike guitarParticipant @mikeguitar]

Well done on that Henry. I quite like the look of the seig machines but was looking at non electronic control machines.heck I spent my life fixing electronics so I should have some idea if a boa d failed and assuming spares hard to come by. I just liked the idea of belt drive. I've not seen the Axminster seig but have checked arceurotrade youtube video and they do look nice.. I think the machines I'm looking at are distributed by Weiss in China

[Mike guitarParticipant @mikeguitar]

Hi all. I'm looking to buy another milling machine.ive been looking for several months.ive noticed that all of the UK distributors of Chineese machines are either low on stock or out of stock.

I read that the Chineese government are clamping down on their manufacturing from a pollution view. Does this explain the situation.i have made enquiries with several of the suppliers and I can understand their position in not really answering my enquiries.

I'm not including arceurotrade in this research as I believe they have adequate stock. I'm not casting aspersions on any one direction just genuinely concerned

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

The ArcEuro website gives dims of 700mm x 320mm x 300mm for their SC2 lathe which is a 7 x 12 machine.

If you are short of space have you considered fixing the lathe to the shelf and sliding the shelf in and out mounted on slides/runners. Heavy duty runners are available, I recently saw a pair on ebay rated at 90Kg and I bet you can get even heavier ones. Your shelf could then be just 12 inches deep, pull it out to use, slide it back to store, you would need to lock it in place of course but that shouldnt be difficult to do.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

I try to attend shows, (Ally Pally, Doncaster and the Fosse ) Now less with a view to a shopping list, although there always seems to be an impulse buy!

The Fosse is my least favourite. The aisles are so narrow that three folk means a complete blockage. Often caused by the unthinking or selfish and uncaring..

Why do we care less about delaying / obstructing those around us, as we get older? Before anyone says "It's alright for you youngsters" you must be ten years older than me and in your nineties to say that! And Yes, I do carry a rucksack, but choose who to assault with it.

For the four years that it ran, I organised one of the largest club stands at the Spalding Show, so learned a little about organising a Show from both the Organiser and the Exhibitor standpoint. Neither is easy. Some clubs mess the organisers about; late entry, no show etc.

It can be difficult to persuade members to provide exhibits ( having to travel to and fro to deliver and collect the item/s, and the risk of damage. (Security is usually pretty tight, but there are occasional light fingered activities with pocketable items )

Also, if the organisers are too greedy, they price out traders. But they cannot afford to run at a loss for many years. So there has to be a delicate balance between the rent for a trade stand, and the price of an entry ticket.

And by laying out the stands to give wide aisles to allow easy movement of the punters, you reduce the space for the traders who pay to be there, in the hope of selling their products profitably.

With the steadily tightening economic conditions, you can see why traders reduce the range of items that they display, and the size and content of the stand Arc Euro, understandably, went from "Display the whole range" to machines only, and then absence, just as Warco are now doing, whilst Chester have greatly reduced their stand size. You have sell a lot of.machines, let alone small accessories, to cover the costs; of disrupting your business at home, transport, accomodation, and returning everything to normal afterwards.

As an Exhibitor, even for a local two day Show, there is almost a day to prepare, another to load the car, arrive and set up the stand, two days as a Steward, and then a rush to strip down and load up at the end, followed by the next day putting everything away again.

Being a Trader, or an Exhibitor at a Show is not beer and skittles by any means.

BUT, an Exhibitor deserves free entry to supervise and explain their exhibits to the paying public. As already said, No Exhibits = No Show = No Profit for the organiser.

Sorry to ramble on at such great length, but there are many aspects to a Show whether as Trader, Exhibitor or Visitor. Keeping everyone happy is not that simple.

Howard