Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Ian Skeldon 2Participant @ianskeldon2]

@Ketan

I have bought items from you (well Arc Eurotrade to be precise) and never had any problems, however as a customer I do prefer (now) to source items from suppliers using DPD as they will deliver to a nominated shop or other place chosen from their network. In real terms, for me it means I can order something late in the evening after work, then go onto interweb thingy and arrange for it to be delivered to the off licence half a mile away. I can then call into said off licence up until 10 pm whenever it's conveiniant. Now if parcel force can start to offer that kind of service it will really make for a level playing field.

Best regards,

Ian

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Posted by not done it yet on 02/10/2017 20:12:54:

If you're not in a rush have a look at BangGood for collets and chucks. I've been pleased with mine.

I would strongly recommend you do not buy from Banggood. Buy cheap, buy twice. Speaking from recent personal experience here.

The collets are (so far) adequate for my purposes. Bought a holder from ArcEuro as the first was worse than useless. Yep, bought cheap bought twice.

As I say, beware of what you buy from Banggood!

I find wit the Chinese sellers, if they're avoiding the R word then just give 'em bad review and that normally winds them up enough to ask you to retract it and get ur money.

Michael W

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

If you're not in a rush have a look at BangGood for collets and chucks. I've been pleased with mine.

I would strongly recommend you do not buy from Banggood. Buy cheap, buy twice. Speaking from recent personal experience here.

I expected the holder to be similar quality to RDG, Chronos etc but was totally disappointed – and they are really bl**dy-minded regarding refunds.

In a nutshell, the MT2 taper was not accurate and it only touched at the narrow end.

I have pics of marking ink being smeared at one end and only one in four stripes contacting further down. Checked with other MT tools on two machines (and a friend didn't even try it in his machines as one can actually feel the looseness). Soon sorted but one end mill destroyed by the induced chatter. Banggood are not decent vendors when it comes to complaints and refunds. They employ bots, not real people, I think, to give standard unhelpful responses.

The collets are (so far) adequate for my purposes. Bought a holder from ArcEuro as the first was worse than useless. Yep, bought cheap bought twice.

As I say, beware of what you buy from Banggood!

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

After many frustrating years of fumbling with assorted packing pieces on my 4 way tool post I decided to indulge in a quick change tool post. I purchased the "Dixon" type from RDG Tools, I was very pleased with the finish of the item, it was nicely ground all over. When I came to fit it to my lathe ( a warco bv20 ) the mounting stud is twelve mm and the clearance hole through the tool post was only 11.2 MM so I was faced with opening out a hardened steel hole, not an easy task. My mill,a Chester V20, doesn't have a coolant system so I thought if I take it easy with a 12 MM Cobalt drill it should manage to open it out. Ever the optimist I embarked on the task only to find progress was extremely slow and eventually ground to a halt, too much heat was being generated to make any progress, I tried an end mill and that was a no go as well. Reflecting on the problem I realised that I would need to flood the operation with coolant so would need to construct a temporary coolant system to experiment with. Then a thought flashed through my muddled brain how about some form of diamond cutting tool, I remember seeing that Arceurotrade sell diamond core drills for cutting ceramics and glass, fortunately they sell a 12 MM one. I remember reading that someone recommends them for removing broken taps. Armed with the diamond core drill I resumed the task and found that it cut through almost like a knife through butter, success at last but it rendered the core drill scrap, not a problem as it was a small price to pay for achieving the objective. The QCTP is now installed and operational, have already purchased more tool holders to build a collection of ready to use tools. No connection with either retailers mentioned, just a happy and satisfied customer.

Dave

[Nick HulmeParticipant @nickhulme30114]

Posted by Jon on 01/10/2017 02:02:14:

Arc do them but are so annoying to use each and every time clamp something up.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/Precision-Tool-Vices-Type-2

Limited travel of a bolt with allen key that rounds off, slacken off eccentric cam drops out fist around to retrieve then line up and start screw off repetitively. Need hammer and allen key to tighten up or wont hold job, same with undoing.

Had one for over 5 years, I can only assume you're using it wrong, I have the threads lubed with MOS2 and clean them each time the vice comes off the mill, I have never come close to rounding the hex in the screw, I don't use cheap hex keys though!

[davebParticipant @daveb17630]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 01/10/2017 08:58:35

In a Dickson the piton pulls and the dovetails push in equal amounts.

In some others the dovetails pull and the pistons push.

Is there really a difference in rigidity?

Neil

I've used a 250 series toolpost (China) on my 6 1/2 center height lathe for a few years, the piston pushes the holder out against the dovetails. A few months ago I saw A wedge type toolpost in the ArcEurotrade catologue which uses the same toolholders, the price seemed very reasonable so I ordered one. I get the impression that it is slightly more rigid than the piston type but there is little difference between the two.

Dave

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I've got a couple of vices for the SX2.7 From ARC and both are Quite nice to use.

The Versatile on swivel base has a form of wedge action on the movable jaw that forces it down when you tighten up and also has the bonus of being able to hold quite large thin items due to the additional jaw mounting positions. Quite a large vice so probably not the best thing on a X1 mill!

The type 2 precision is a lot more compact so more suited to the smaller machines, Works a bit easier either a "T" type key and you get used to how far to undo the screw, Plenty of traditional vices use a separate handle to tighten so I don't see an issue with a separate key plus if you have the vice mounted along the table the key is a lot easier than a cranked handle.

[John ReeseParticipant @johnreese12848]

Posted by Jon on 01/10/2017 02:02:14:

Arc do them but are so annoying to use each and every time clamp something up.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/Precision-Tool-Vices-Type-2

Limited travel of a bolt with allen key that rounds off, slacken off eccentric cam drops out fist around to retrieve then line up and start screw off repetitively. Need hammer and allen key to tighten up or wont hold job, same with undoing.

I agree If you back out the screw a bit too far the "nut" that engages the grooves in the body drops off and you have to dismount the vise to put it back. To eliminate that problem I replaced the Allen screw with a stud and tall (coupling) nut. It also serves as kind of a handle to help get "nut" engaged in the slot.

[JonParticipant @jon]

Arc do them but are so annoying to use each and every time clamp something up.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/Precision-Tool-Vices-Type-2

Limited travel of a bolt with allen key that rounds off, slacken off eccentric cam drops out fist around to retrieve then line up and start screw off repetitively. Need hammer and allen key to tighten up or wont hold job, same with undoing.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Phil, I will be doing a series on Milling for beginners in alternate issues to Neil's one on Lathe work.

Geoff, in the box of goodies that came with the SX2.7mill From Arc were some of the blue Tome File handles that they do along with the Tome range of files and very comfy to use they are too. Will be buying some more for myself, I already have a few of the files.

Eric, I wonder if most newcommers will just buy a digital Mic and not have any problems reading it.

Edited By JasonB on 30/09/2017 13:21:58

[Perko7Participant @perko7]

Hare & Forbes in Australia have a couple, also saw a similar one on Shapiro Enterprises web page following the link on the right of this page. Assume ArcEuro would also have something?

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

Hm Seems that the posilock gets the thumbs down!

Rainbows where on earth did you get Arc Euro as half the price of the Chronos Vertex chuck? last time I looked the Vertex was priced at £79 with 4 of each of the common Imperial and metric colletts. I think the Arc Eurotrade was 80 odd pound with about 8 to 10 of the metric collets. Am I missing some superdeal here?

Most of my milling cutters are threaded, so the posilock chuck is attractive. If the thread isn't present on the cutter then I assume the posilock system won't hold as well as the ER collets? For the life of me I can't see there being much difference and if the thread is present then the posilock would be much better. Now tell me why I am wrong again!

Andrew.

[Michael ToppingParticipant @michaeltopping17870]

Arceuro do a range of Sumitomo inserts and tool holders, much more expensive than the Far East ones but cut very well. I use them and would recommend to anyone.

Michael

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

Parcel force are definitely improving, had a delivery the other day, from Arceurotrade as it happens, and the delivery person engaged in amicable conversation, definite improvement as you only used to get grunts if you were lucky. Company must have had a morale transplant.

Dave

[Ian ParkinParticipant @ianparkin39383]

I placed an order the other day with arc euro and was pleased to get texts from parcelforce letting me know when the parcel was coming with a one hour slot for time of arrival.

Worked great and was as reliable as dpd who have done the one hour slots for a while..

[Michael BriggsParticipant @michaelbriggs82422]

Hello Alan, you can buy screw in tangs for your arbours. **LINK** for example.

Edited By Michael Briggs on 29/09/2017 18:18:28

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

For as long as I have been Editor of MEW, I have received regular requests for more content for absolute beginners. Thanks to a sponsorship deal with Arc Euro Trade, in this issue we are able to commence a regular feature aimed at helping those with no practical experience to safely and successfully get the most out of their workshop. In MEW 260 and alternate issues, I will be giving a detailed introduction to lathework. The issues in between will carry a parallel series by Jason Ballamy on using a milling machine. Jason is known for his big prize-winning models of stationary engines, which he produces at an exceptional rate!

There will be dedicated two threads for the two series on the forum at http://www.model-engineer.co.uk where you will be welcome to ask further questions or even suggest topics or techniques you would like us to explore as the two series develop.

This thread is for questions about the Lathework for Beginners series. Please keep it on topic, this thread is for general discussion of lathe techniques and using different accessories not issues like merits of one machine versus another. Off topic comments will be moved or deleted!

Jason and I both plan to include ‘tips and wrinkles’ that will be of interest to more experienced hobbyists as well, so we hope that this new initiative is something that all readers will enjoy.

Thanks,

Neil

[Simon Williams 3Participant @simonwilliams3]

Hello John, plenty of info on the forum which provides instructions and piccy's of the set up you are looking for. Here's one such, there are others.

 

**LINK**

 

I'm assuming you have the Mk2 quick change gearbox fitted – the 33 and 34 T gears are specifically for use with the gearbox, not as part of the simple gear train. You also need to decide if you have the old Mk1 gearbox or the much more common MK2 gearbox. If you can post a picture of the right hand face od the gearbox (nearest the chuck) we can confirm which you are looking at.

If you want chapter and verse, Brian Wood's book "Gearing of Lathes for Screwcutting" is worth having. Available from ArcEuro also Amazon.

Hope this helps Best rgds Simon

(Neil – I thought I'd sussed out embedding a link, obviously not! Please edit if you think it simplifies things. Thanks)

EDIT – Ah Hah!  I didn't expect the "link" just to appear like that when it compiled. Sussed it at last! 

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 21/09/2017 19:54:28

Edit 2 – Have I read somewhere you've got an S7 with a METRIC leadscrew? 

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 21/09/2017 20:23:34

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by Colin LLoyd on 21/09/2017 13:25:56:

Thanks guys for the replies.

Nick: I saw that video too and for that reason I avoided the taper roller bearings as the replacements were of a different size. As the Angular roller bearings (Arceurotrade 7206 B 2RS size 30x62x16) were exactly the same size as the ones that came with the machine – I chose those so that I wouldn't need to make shims or change the spacer sizes.

.

Sorry my mistake.

I did not read properly and presumed (wrongly) that anyone going to the trouble of fitting new bearings would have gone for the taper roller upgrade.

Nick

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Colin,

Broadly speaking, Michael is right with regard to tight fit. the bearings – be they ball, taper roller, or angular contact need to be a push fit, as suggested on page 8 – see point 53 and 54 here.

However, there could be other reasons for your problem such as:

• new bearings not located fully in the housing for various reasons – may be some dirt/dust left behind near the shoulder of the housing against which the bearings locate.
• you may or may not have two locking rings to tighten. Either way, the sole locking ring/inner locking ring many need further tightening and/or has cross threaded may be?. if you turn the chuck by hand without the belt being installed, how freely does it turn?. if too freely, then you still need to put on some more pre-load. But be careful, as if there is too much pre-load, and if the spindle becomes too hard to turn, then, this could take-out the control board, if your particular lathe does not have an over-load protection.
• When we used to undertake bearing change many moon ago, we did not replace the plastic spacers to metal. John Rudd has a valid point, but we did not feel it to be necessary at the time, for the application on a mini-lathe. However, we are aware that some people did change them to metal spacers which they made themselves.

Without seeing the machine, it is difficult to give a clear answer. We can only give suggestions.

Good Luck.

Ketan at ARC.

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Thanks guys for the replies.

Nick: I saw that video too and for that reason I avoided the taper roller bearings as the replacements were of a different size. As the Angular roller bearings (Arceurotrade 7206 B 2RS size 30x62x16) were exactly the same size as the ones that came with the machine – I chose those so that I wouldn't need to make shims or change the spacer sizes.

Not done it yet – I agree but I don't have a press. My method of using one of the old bearings as a cushion and load disperser and using many light taps rather than a few heavy thumps was the best that I could achieve.

Michael – excuse my naivety – but surely if the bearings were a sliding fit on the spindle – the bearing wouldn't be doing its job.

John – your comment about plastic spacers being unsuitable for pre-load bearings is well-made – but don't all bearings including the ones that came with the machine have pre-loading anyway.

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

This is one of the things I wish my Boxford had.

I have considered drilling and tapping my cross slide to take something like this **LINK** that could easily be removed when not required for 'line boring' and such.

Nick

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, last week I was on holiday in Northern Italy in Garda. During my stay, one excursion I went on was a visit to a farm, where they have cows and also produce cheese. Was not terrible interested in breeding, feeding and milking cows, but the cheese tasting was worth the wait, which was flushed down with a couple or three glasses of wine. The next stop was at a honey farm and one of my first thoughts was Clive and his bees. The bees at this farm are much calmer than our bees, so much so, that the host than we had, attended the bees in a T shirt and shorts (and footwear) and although they do got stung from time to time and mostly only on their hands, he says it's of no big deal, he recons about 100 times a season is average. Below is a couple of photos of him showing us the queen bee, and also showing us how he held a handful of bees (you'll have to excuse the reflection on the glass window, of the people looking in) the queen has a yellow dot on her head. (click on the photo for a larger view)

We had a taste of two types of honey, the first one was produced from 50 different pollen producing plants and was unset and was very nice indeed. The second one was produced from only three different pollen producing plants, which was also very nice, but it had a gritty kind of texture as it crystallises quickly. This farm is in Fiave **LINK**

A very interesting tour it was indeed and I bought a small jar of the very nice honey.

The last visit was to a winery **LINK**, where we got a taste of three different wines. The first was white wine either dry or sweet, the second was a red with was very nice. We then got to taste some balsamic vinegar and olive oil and finally a sparkling white wine, which was OK, but I'm not into sparkling wines. I bought a bottle of the very nice red.

Finally, here is a photo of the best filling station that I have ever seen. Well engineered I think.

Locals were there filling up 25L containers, the prices in euros per litre from left to right are, 2.40, 1.85, 1.85, 1.70 and 2.10

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 12/09/2017 22:14:22

[Mark Lawson 1Participant @marklawson1]

First of all chaps thanks for all your responses which I will answer first then add my research last.

Ian S C, The motor is a single phase AC induction motor 600W, 240V, 3.6A, 1400rpm, 50Hz E

Gordon Tarling, only the first motor burnt out this left a terrible mess inside the casing, the second and third motors didn’t burn out as such but both suffered the same problem in that over a period of months lost about 200rpm slowly then whilst running the machine all of a sudden the speed dropped from 1200rpm to about 10rpm, regardless of what position the potentiometer was positioned speed would not alter up or down.

Silly old duffer, I always use the potentiometer I never start or stop the machine all of a sudden speed is always reduced then stopped, dirt and damp can’t be the problem none of my other tools rust nor have the beads on the mill, lathe or my small pillar drill don’t have any welding gear apart from gas for silver soldering.

Neil, I don’t always run the motor flat out and have found out that the cooling on these motors is not good and al low speeds don’t exist.

Larry, I never take off at full speed nor stop at full speed, speed is increased and decreased fromt the soft start speed back to the soft start speed.

I don’t think this is a control board problem after the second motor failed I replaced with the longer third motor and everything worked fine until last week after a year of use if it was the controle board then the machine still wouldn’t have worked or one would have thought would have failed sooner.

Searching the forum did throw up others who have had a similar problem one two statements seem to make sense; “ these motors fail because of poor quality start capacitors or a dodgy centrifugal switch” “either the start capacitor, centrifugal switch or the fan unit not providing enough cooling” I really do think the problem is with the Chinese motor when I can I think I will take them to an electric motor rewind company if the problem is start capacitors or a dodgy centrifugal switch then it may not be too expensive to repair better yet to replace with a European made motor as I would bet that the Chinese motor is a clone and a poor one at that.