Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Gordon TarlingParticipant @gordontarling37126]

My 2p worth. Do try to get over to Arc Euro if you possibly can – they will go out of their way to help you.

Before I bought a lathe, I considered many different makes and concluded that Proxxon lathes are really glorified, overpriced toys that IMHO aren't capable of any serious work. I had a Sherline with many accessories for a while, but found it quite limiting for the type of work that I wanted to do. I also had a Hobbymat MD65 for a while – this was a more capable lathe, though I felt that the bed design was somewhat lacking, so I sold that. I then bought my present lathe which is an Emco Compact 8 – I was lucky in that I managed to find a little used one in good condition for a reasonable price. I'm very pleased with its accuracy and capabilities, it really only lacks the ready availability of certain accessories. I wouldn't normally recommend you buy a used lathe without some experience behind you, or a friend with you who does have that experience. If you buy new, then you at least get some form of warranty. Good luck in your quest!

[MicrobikeParticipant @microbike]

Posted by Nick_G on 11/09/2017 06:03:33:

Posted by Microbike on 11/09/2017 00:58:22:

Proxxon mill's lowest speed is 5,000 which will literally melt the plastic in a millionth of a nano second

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Here you go. **LINK** That one will reduce to a low spindle speed and is I would think a sturdier machine than the proxxon.

Nick

Hello Nick

Thanks for the link and you are right it's variable speed and can get down to very low RPM – plus it's not expensive at all

Cheers

Andrew

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by Microbike on 11/09/2017 00:58:22:

Proxxon mill's lowest speed is 5,000 which will literally melt the plastic in a millionth of a nano second

.

Here you go. **LINK** That one will reduce to a low spindle speed and is I would think a sturdier machine than the proxxon.

Nick

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

the earlier Perris lathes used a 0.5″ UNF thread on head stock – maybe the face plate is from an early version – the 14mm 1mm thread spindle may be an upgrade as the new and old spindles should fit the old headstocks

Did Cowells switch to 14 x 1.0mm as I note that this thread is mentioned by ArcEuro in their chuck faceplates

Edited By Frances IoM on 10/09/2017 22:17:51

[MicrobikeParticipant @microbike]

Budget

So how much do I have to spend. I would be quite happy to spend between £2,500-£3,000 but only if that is the best solution. I will be raedy to make my purchase in the spring of 2018. I would like to make a short list and then if possible see the actual lathe before placing an order

So what do I like — don't know, I though WARCO but it seems that the quality and service is questionable.

Then I thought I might buy European and get a Wabeco but they too have had negative press especially quality?

Then I thought SIEG till I read the mini lathe book by Fenner and that really put me off – so many quality issues – but to be fair it only costs about £750

I could provide my short list and concerns if that would help?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Any of our suppliers will do more cost effective holders in no particular order Glanze (via Chronos) ARC Eurotrade, RDG, JB Cutting tools mentioned above & Greenwood at a slightly higher price. I've got holders from all these companies and they do the job. JB also do kennametal, though not sure of full spec. If shopping at MSC check out the monthy discount flyer which can be found on their site and usually has tips at reduced costs.

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

I have only just come across this thread. All that money and you get a pile of junk. Did either of the complainants raise the issues with the suppliers and seek a refund? If so how did they react. When buying a machine even at this end of the market perhaps a recommendation rather than perceived belief in country of manufacture is the best way. On the RH side of this page is an advert for ArcEuro Trade. They import and sell Seig machines as most on here know, but they also have a policy of not selling them until they have sorted out any manufacturing problems and agreed the quality standard required with the manufacturers. I can only speak for their milling machines as I bought one a couple of years ago. It is a great piece of kit and I am more convinced each day that I made the right decision to buy it. I machine mostly stainless steel and it copes admirably, and I "do not spare the horses" when cutting. if their lathes are half as good as my mill then they are definitely worth buying. I have no connections with ArcEuro except as a very happy and satisfied customer.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

really good quality?

No, but considered adequate, or more than adequate, by some, and they are likely as good as the other cheaper ranges. As with most things in life, 'you pays your money and get what you pays for'.

Of course Chronos push them – that is what they sell. I buy from Chronos and other outlets. Arceuro are, I think, current favourites overall.

I have one of the better range of vises (precision type 2) from Arceuro and a larger vise from Chester. The smaller one is very good (better than my ability, but was awkward to get used to). I am now warming to that one because the finish is so much better than the larger vice. It also has the thoughtful addition of threaded drillings for the fitting of stops – but it did only come with a plain key (which has been replaced by a better T-key, which is less likely to be temporarily misplaced!)

I would say spend the most you can afford from your budget, as it is an item you will be using often and it should not wear out.

So, I'm still not sure where the emphasis in your title should be – on the 'really' or as 'really good'. I would really say Soba is 'fair' but not "supa dupa".

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

What size are you looking for and is it for just drilling or milling also as that can alter the price considerably.

Either way ARCeurotrade (clickable advert on this page) do quality value for money items (that I personally can vouch for) that will probably fit your needs and budget.

Nick

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Bob,

Our esteemed Editor's article on the subject is available for download: **LINK**

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/reviews/MEW204-P31_P36-Thread-Cutting.pdf

… this should reveal the magic of 63

MichaelG.

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

I replaced my Dickson type QCTP for a wedgie earlier this year ( sourced from Arc Eurotrade – 000 size ). The supplied generic fixing stud didn't suit my 9 x 20 lathe so I made one from the scrap box. I wish I'd got one of these in the first place, they're much better, in my opinion. I would suggest you get more toolholders than you think you'll ever need; you will need them!

John

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

Alfie have you looked at the arc eurotrade toolposts ? http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk or just click the advertisement at the top right of the forum homepage .

I use an axa size wedge type on my 9×20 ( called an AL50G here in oz ) mine came from ctc tools in china and is very well made and cheap to but but freight and insurance was a killer !

These units came with a 9/16 post so all i had to do was drill and tap the compound slide 9/16 nf.

Ian .

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Hi Nick,

Yes – the question was how to remove one of these angular bearings without breaking it. I have just bought one of those gear puller kits as shown in the Video – it was also what Neil Wyatt suggested (in a private email) – but it didn't arrive until after I'd used a Draper 2-legged puller to try to get it off. Once the outer ring and ball race is removed – it's quite easy to get the inner race off. I do note that the 2 clamps supplied with the kit have a chamfered front edge which fits around the bearing. It might be possible, by reversing the clamps so that the indented side faces the mandrel shoulder rather than facing the bearing, to tighten the clamps so that the horizontal tightening produces sufficient upward movement of the bearing to then reverse the clamps to their normal operation and use in the normal way – the clamp shoulder will then sit on the inner ring rather than the outer ring. I don't particularly want to try this as I don't want to break another bearing – although Arceurotrade would appreciate another bearing sale – but it might be worth a try if I really need to get the bearing off in the future.

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Hi Nick,

Thanks for the reply – but the photo doesn't really show me how this would work. To explain further I've attached part of a diagram from the Arceurotrade guide to replacing angular bearings on their C3 lathe. It shows the Mandrel end of the headstock with the angular bearing in place on the spindle. Imagine the headstock casing removed and you have my problem. Using a normal gear puller on the outer race ring of the bearing causes the outer ring and ball race to become separated from the inner race tight on the spindle. This happens because of the way that angular bearing are made and the recommended facing of the bearing on the spindle. I suspect if the bearing was the other way round – pulling on the outer race would work. As you can see, with the bearing hard up against the Mandrel shoulder – there is no gap to get anything of significant leverage onto the inner race to effect removal.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

To put you out of your misery, this is what it says on the side of the crate.

It would seem that ARC Eurotrade are doing their bit for the enviroment and not using polystyrene packaging which just goes to landfill, instead they have taken to packing around the machines with bits of tooling, etc.

Looks a bit like someone did a supermarket sweep of the ARC warehouse and as you can see there is a 150mm rule in there so one right answer.

Just need to work out what all these bits do and how to use them

J

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 06/09/2017 12:10:09:

People are popping up all over the USA with derivatives of JS's blocks claiming they are a 'new' invention…

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Vee-Blocks-Angle-Plates/10-20-40-and-20-40-80-Blocks

Neil

The counter bored holes are a useful addition that JS did not include.

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

A related question on Angular bearings: While replacing the damaged nylon gear wheels within the headstock of my Amadeal CJ18A lathe (similar to C3), I decided to change the spindle bearings for Angular ones – 7206 B 2RS from Arceurotrade. The discussion above and the excellent Arceurotrade visual guide to installing these angular bearings helped a lot – except in my enthusiasm I forgot to put the plastic bearing cover at the Mandrel end before putting the Angular bearing on. If I had known what was to happen next – I might have cut the plastic cove in half and then glued it back together around the spindle. Using normal gear removal tools that fits to the outer ring of the bearing caused the inner ring to remain on the spindle shaft while the rest of it came away – easy to see why as that is how they are probably put together (and also how I pressed the bearing back together – although I won't use it and have bought another one). As the bearing is installed hard up against the mandrel shoulder – there is no easy way to get access to, and purchase on, the inner ring of the bearing.

So the question is – how would more experienced engineers than me go about removing these angular bearings, in this situation, without breaking them. – in case I need to do it again.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

People are popping up all over the USA with derivatives of JS's blocks claiming they are a 'new' invention…

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Vee-Blocks-Angle-Plates/10-20-40-and-20-40-80-Blocks

Neil

[Niels AbildgaardParticipant @nielsabildgaard33719]

Posted by Clive Foster on 05/09/2017 18:43:43:

Cheap taper bearings won't do for a lathe spindle if you plan to do any decent quality of work. Bit more to a lathe spindle than a fancy tube too. There is reason why all lathes beyond the low cost variety use quality steels for the spindle Again were I to do such project I'd move up into the century of the fruit bat with nice modern plain bearings, independent pump fed lubrication and effective oil seals. Run the pump off a separate motor with a pressure controlled switch in the outlet line so the alter can't start until there is pressure for lubrication feed. Room for a real bore, oil country lathe style, in the spindle then.

Clive.

When I got my Boxford I changed the bearings profylactic and utterly unnessecary.The new ones were chineese

and I could mesure no(repeat no ) runout using a swiss TDI? and a test bar from Arceuro.

What suitable steel say 70mm round can mere mortals buy and where?.About 300mm long

The only objection to simple screw on fitting is seizing with time and I have made it routine to remove chucks every evening.

 

Edited By Niels Abildgaard on 05/09/2017 19:01:47

Edited By Niels Abildgaard on 05/09/2017 19:02:32

[SteveIParticipant @stevei]

Hi,

I think it is probably the case you can easily find tooling, my initial guess is its BT30. However it would be nice to get a picture with a different angle as I can not make out the drive dog cut outs, or the profile of the area which the tool changer clamps on and off. If you have the tool to hand and do a web search you can check the basic dimensions to be 100%.

 

SK — roughly translates as Short Taper which is a European description for the self releasing milling machine spindle taper standard that we know as NMTB (National Machine Tool Builders) taper family. Basically it is a 24/7 taper defined in the USA in the 1920's.

 

The number 30 denotes the size of the tooling. There are various standards and 30 40 and 50 are the most common. 30 is very common and getting 30 taper tooling in all its variations is not a problem. 40 taper seems to be the cheapest new as I suspect it is the most commonly made these days.

 

There are many variations of this basic 24/7 taper tooling and you need to get the correct variation to ensure compatibility. In your picture the tool has a pull stud which is common in CNC machines for tool retention in the spindle and the flange is suited to a tool changer carousel so from that we can infer it is probably either BT30 or CAT30. BT is common in Europe and is defined using metric, i.e. the thread for the pull stud is M12 on BT30 metric.BT30 spindles have symmetric drive dog arrangement so the cut outs in the tool flange are symmetric.

 

http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html

 

Good luck

Steve

 

EDIT Jason beat me to it.

Edited By SteveI on 05/09/2017 07:29:53

Edited By SteveI on 05/09/2017 07:40:11

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Instant gasket should work.

I've just injected this stuff HLP32 through all the oiler points on my new lathe and it's definitely quietened down the headstock gears.

Neil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

twitter photo shows the QCTP in it's box.

Can't quite see which one it is but the QCTP set for the SC4 that ARC suggest on their site just comes with just standard tool holders

 

Edited By JasonB on 01/09/2017 09:10:08

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I see it has a four way tool post – are you going to retain it or get a QCTP? If the latter, I would advise against an Arc Euro 'set'. Buying separately is the way to go and here are a few reasons:

Not really cheaper as you prolly won't want all the different tool holders in the set.

The knurling tool is an excessive pressure jobbie – not good for the lathe and the scissor types are far superior (even if a little/lot more expensive).

The parting tool holder is carp (well, mine is). The parting blade is fitted at an angle, so every time the blade is extended or retracted (for different diameter cuts) it must be reset at centre height!

More normal, simple tool holders are the real priority – the cheapest ones in the 'kit'.

Might be more, but will post now. IMO it would have been far better to offer a good price on the tool post and half a dozen, or so, normal tool holders (with maybe one of them with a V notch able to accommodate a round boring tool).

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by JasonB on 31/08/2017 13:35:37:

I can (just)pick up the headstock end of my 280 when still fixed to the stand so I should think Neil can manage the tailstock end of an SC4.

I can just lift the headstock end of the SC4, but as Wes (one of my steplads) now drives and unloads HGVs and previously used to carry granite kitchen worktops about in one hand I thought I would let him do the hard work. We managed to go from front drive, through the house and into the workshop in one, but I think we were both glad to get it down

We still have to lift it on the stand tonight, I've made a downpayment in Foster's.

The SO is wondering how we managed to move the lathe within a couple of hours but the old washing machine is still in the garden…

I'm not worried about the stand going anywhere, but I might screw it down if I can figure out a way of doing so!

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathes/SIEG-SC4-Lathe/SIEG-SC4-and-C4-Lathe-Accessories/Deluxe-Stand-for-SC4-510-Lathe

Neil

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

Ahhhhhhhhhh Now I know.

It's ARC's entire boxed up stock of this unsold and unwanted item. **LINK**

Nick