Search Results for 'zan'

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Agreed drill and tap the x slide and fit anti swarf plugs, you don’t want dross falling into yjrpe slide internalsOr fit a 6 mm plate on top. Don’t make a new x slide, too much work for a single job at some point buy a miller

Do not cut slots in the slide at has been designed as a single solid unit and will weaken it.  A set of holes will give great versatility

Edited By Zan on 22/12/2018 00:28:28

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Posted by Zan on 21/12/2018 13:25:21:

Edit re 4 jaw self centring chuck

A self centring 4 jaw is useless here it’s a rectangular component , but you don’t use it often! Wow. Mine is on almost all the time. It gives a better hold on the stock than a 3 jaw esp when threading anything bigger than M6 and contrary to popular belief you can hold hexagonal as you grip it on 4 points of the stock. My 5” is in constant use. It’s also a highly accurate chuck

Edited By Zan on 21/12/2018 13:30:57

It may be, but I can make any rectangle into a square by adding a couple of pieces, which this apparently needs, to mount on any chuck. Rather depends on how many he might have to do and the size variations between parts. It looks like it needs a 2mm piece either sde.

Yes, it gives a better hold on perfectly round stock, but anything out of round will only be held securely by three jaws. Mine is ‘highly accurate’ but no better than my three jaw variant by the same manufacturer. My four jaw independant gets most use, I would say

[ZanParticipant @zan]

 

As you have a lot of them, set it up on an angle plate on the faceplate. With the angle plate level you can set the height with a pin In the tailstock, same diameter as the thickness of the part. Get the first one then central and you can get the Have a loose clamped stop ready along the side and fix it when all is in place.

The result is only having to set up once, all the rest will be positioned by the stop.

Edit  re 4 jaw self centring chuck

A self centring 4 jaw is useless here it’s a rectangular component ,  but you don’t use it often!  Wow. Mine is on almost all the time. It gives a better hold on the stock than a 3 jaw esp when threading anything bigger than M6 and contrary to popular belief you can hold hexagonal as you grip it on 4 points of the stock.  My 5” is in constant use.  It’s also a highly accurate chuck

Edited By Zan on 21/12/2018 13:30:57

[egaParticipant @ega]

Anyone who can readily fit a rear toolpost should not be deterred from trying one; with any particular way of working its advantages may or may not outweigh the problems experienced by Zan.

The GHT version can be swivelled 90 deg to get the blade out of the way and instantly reset to either of its two blades when needed. Having a separate turret means that other tools – boring, knurling, etc – can be deployed. Those who use form tools will get better results with the tool in the rear toolpost.

Myford were far from the only maker who favoured "across" tee slots and although their own early RTP was fastened by only one bolt the "across" style allows a firmer fixing via two slots.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

 

A 1” drill would need a sizeable machine. Saw a massive scrap radial machine last week. Must have weighed 4 tons, the column was at least 18” diameter. The speed said 75 rpm for a 3” drill

Big machine, and serious clamping of the work needed! My of fobco bench drill vas a fitted vdf. Magic ! Well worth the money, never had it on the right speed before, and changing speed was such a faff it stayed on one most of the time. Speeds in general look ok to me

Edit. Autocorrect. Fed up with it!

Edited By Zan on 15/12/2018 23:56:28

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Totally agree, not enough heat , torch too small not delivering the quantity needed but the temperature of the flame is enough to burn off the flux. I tend to find that easy flo flux is not as good as tenacity no5 type ( for extended heating and stainless) when working with steel fabrications. Add a drop or two of washing up liquid to the mix, it helps the flux to “wet” the metal and provides a small measure of cleaning action

Edited By Zan on 11/12/2018 13:39:26

[ZanParticipant @zan]

For a small space the boxford is what I would go for. Have used Myford for years, but it’s capacity is limited. good experience with boxfords and my current Colchester student. Not used a bantam but a friend who produced award winning models had one. The boxford with the inverter drive is now a fully variable speed, the real problem with a boxford underdrive is the faff of changing speed , something which you will only need to do when high torque is needed for big stuff and low seep durning of say cast iron. The Myford looks as if it’s been repainted to sell it, does not look good, it’s an old machine.

Go for the boxford

Edit, just reloaded at the bantam. It looks rough

Edited By Zan on 04/12/2018 13:26:13

[ZanParticipant @zan]

The trouble with Neil’s square is that if the column is out in both directions, and you put a dti at say the back is any indicated dial movement a result of a tilt in the y direction or is it caused by the indicator rolling round the pillar(edit) in the x direction.

But if you go for the double square as indicated by Chris then you will eliminate this problem.

However, if the machine trams correctly then it will produce accurate work unless you are without a quill for adding cut, however the change to the geometry of any cut would probably be less than the deflection of the tool under load..

What type of machine is it? if it trams how does the problem affect your workpiece?

You need to give more information in a request such as this

Borrowing expensive precision kit as suggested earlier is not that easy for most mortals.

Edited By Zan on 01/12/2018 19:28:25

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Zan, that's useful, I've been looking at the UC100. Do you use it with a laptop? I need to replace my Win7 laptop soon for work and may use this one to replace the workshop computer. Do you use probing and is it supported on the UC100 please?

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I use mach3 with win 7 and no problems, but I couldn’t get any joy out of three parallel port cards, the addresses were all wrong. Problem solved with a motion controller, a uc100 it plugs directly into the breakout board and uses a usb in the computer. It’s no bigger than a parallel port plug, wish they cost the same though!. It uses its own dedicated version of Mach3 which is downloaded from the uc100 site.

There’s a series running in ME at the moment about converting a sx2plus to cnc.  I am informed the electronics and setting up will also be covered.

 

Edited By Zan on 29/11/2018 13:40:53

[ZanParticipant @zan]

 

As a child of the 50’s we had fun

 

1) dad was  A radio engineer with lots of aluminium tube. With 2 pence rockets these made great bazookers one aimed, one lit the rocket. Still got me eyes i don’t know how

2) we loved throwing bangers, light. Count. To 4 throw. And use as a grenade. Problem was when the new banger 321zero was introduced it went off in three seconds of fizzing. Still got me hands  amazing that a kid under 10 went n spent all his pocket money at the corner shop on gpbangers, rockets and jumping jacks

3). Penny boxes of caps go off with a tremendous bang if you hit the closed box with a big hammer. It jumps high and it makes your ears ring….. perhaps this is whi I have tinatus now….

4 home made gunpowder was fun

5 cross bows made with 3 layers of 4 mm square elastic with a green garden cane as a bolt, weighted tooth Dad’s solder were deadly accurate. We gave up that game after one of us got hit on the forehead his dustbin lid shield was down. He still has the scar.

How did I survive? Kids in this elf n safte days don’t have much fun……. but I’m getting an Arduino for Christmas …..

 

Edited By Zan on 25/11/2018 23:04:36

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Well despite Neil finding all those combinations this is about the closest I have to the Vulcan and it has no pumps. There are two other engines (Horz & Table) in the same distillery shown, all non condensing and I can't even see a feed pump on those so there may have been a separate steam feed pump for the boiler or it could have come off the line shafting that the engines ran which powered the liquor pumps you can see on the mezzanine level

[ZanParticipant @zan]

More information needed…. wood work tool? Portable? Linisher? Metal tool? Make? Photo? Without information we can’t help a lot

. Basic repair is to give it a dose of switch cleaner. Contacts? They can fail due to to an arc forming and the spark creates pimples on the top of the contact. A diamond lap will cut it flat. Neither are good permanent repairs.

Edit…. autotype again!

 

 

Edited By Zan on 20/11/2018 20:35:15

[ZanParticipant @zan]

If tailstock support makes a real difference on such a short thread, there’s something seriously worming with the lathe…..

Angled topslide is fine, but it makes control of the depth difficult so  zero the topslide , touch the tool down,  move saddle past end of work, add the required depth of cut and re- zero x slide, then back off topslide and use to add cuts

At the end of each pass, retract x slide, move to next pass then return it to zero and add next cut with topslide until zero reached    

Don’t forget it’s the trailing flank which carries the load on the thread, so this one should be the pe best finish.

Edited By Zan on 19/11/2018 09:06:37

[ZanParticipant @zan]

 

Hi mark

I hav the identical machine and converted it. If you use a vdf, there’s a lot of work needing to be done. The on off switch is built into the handle, and that has to be connected to the digital control. All the existing switch gear has to be ripped out as you cannot have any switches between the vdf and the motor. I set mine up to give a speed range of 30 to 65 hz via a pot mounted on the drip tray which is very handy giving a subtle speed range without changing gear, great when facing.

The pump which I no longer use works with a pair of capacitors to simulate 3 phase. I fitted a contractor as a master on off. It took a while to get  all this sorted, but it isn’t difficult as you deal with one section at a time and get that working then move on. It works well from a 13 amp plug. Most of us rarely force these machines, they are designed for heavy action and it won’t be often that you get even close to full power. In any case the vdf can be set to limit the maximum current supplied to the motor. The soft start is a great bonus. Give me a pm if you want more details

Edit.  The contractor I just switches the 240 v input to the vdf.  Your motor is dual voltage and it’s just about switching the wires over.  The lathe vdf conversion was a doddle compared with converting my Bridgeport!  

Edited By Zan on 16/11/2018 21:50:08 I have also fitted a vdf  and new motor onto my drill.  So easy to July to min speed when countersinking after drilling. Well worth the cost.  I’m a great fan of them one on the Myford as well!

Edited By Zan on 16/11/2018 21:53:00

[ZanParticipant @zan]

We often hear people bemoaning the slowing down of the hobby, but if threads here are anything to go by this is far from the truth. I am often amazed by the speed and number of replies to postings which are found here. Many of the rallies I have been to show a large number of traction engines with a wide range of owner age. The standard of work seen at the Fosse continues to grow and blossom. The advent of new technologies are being embraced with jet engines, 3D printing and aided by laser cutting and cnc machining. People say these are not model engineering , but they have enabled more accurately detailed and larger models to be constructed. How many of us actually use a hacksaw on loos frames? Models we call them? 25 years ago a 3” road loco was massive , but now there are a large number of 1/2 scale monsters seen at all rallies.

Martin Evans in smoke rings in ME opened an interesting discussion into is cnc model engineering.  Perhaps the people who complain have not understood the thinking and planning which goes into using this technology, to me that is the lions share of the hobby.

 

Perhaps it’s just the nature of the hobby which is changing?

Edited By Zan on 14/11/2018 21:30:48

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Totally agree with Nigel my summitomo tools are fitted with inserts from JB. CCMT 060402. Give them a bell and Jenny or Paul will sort you out . No need to buy new holders…edit, they work brilliantly on a S7 no problems with deep  1/8” or very fine cuts 1/2 thou

Edited By Zan on 14/11/2018 12:46:59

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

Thanks Zan. I understand the function of the 120/127 wheel for threading – the lathe actually has a metric leadscrew, and I have no problems using it to make imperial threads. My difficulty is with arranging the 127 as an idler rather than a a pitch converter – it just doesn't seem to mesh any which way!

Robin

 

Edited By Robin Graham on 13/11/2018 23:42:47

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Carbide needs a softer wheel than the standard grey/blue wheel. This is commonly known as a green grit wheel in modelling circles.  The standard wheel is useless on carbide tooling it is normally finish honed with a diamond lap afterwards. Carbide also need a lot of power to work efficiently. They are particularly useful for matching castings which often have a hard surface skin which will rapidly blunt anHSS tool

Edit. Autotype error

Edited By Zan on 12/11/2018 18:46:13

[ZanParticipant @zan]

 

It bonds at an atomic level into the parent metal and is almost as strong as the parent steel. Capillary action if the joint is made correctly will pull the solder through the joint so that all surfaces are covered. For this reason a tiny gap is required. For flat faces, some people recommend light punch marks to ensure the gap, although iv found that even with clamped faces there seems to be few problems. Some grades are better at gap filling than others, but the gap should be small ideally well under 10 thou no gap = no penetration

Edit….note that both pieces being joined must be at the temperature at which the solder melts- at least a dull red hot – or the solder will form a bead on the outside of the joint and will not penetrate.  Solder flows to where the metal is hottest provided it is fluxed to keep the oxides away

Edited By Zan on 12/11/2018 14:10:41

[ZanParticipant @zan]

As a beginner I feel you would be better with HSS and grind the former yourself there’s a good series in the ME covering this in the last 3-4 issues inserts can be fragile especially to the complete novice and they are comparatively expensive as you will be needing a lot of diverse kit early on to get started. Yes shim them up but it is important to get them exactly on centre height

What type of tool post do you have? One thing is when changing tools, keep each tool with its own set of packings, an elastic band or box with divisions so once set you won’t have to do it again until you have to regrind.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress

Edit…. ps where are you based?

Edited By Zan on 10/11/2018 19:00:44

[egaParticipant @ega]

Zan:

Good point about getting the tapers to match although I don't think it occurred to me when I made mine (or to GHT?).

I agree that the reamer is relatively straightforward to make but the OP clearly did not want to do so.

My objection to the majority of inserted tip tools is the overhang. That said, I am pleased with the ISCAR tangential parting tool I have on the other lathe; it is mounted in a GHT style RTP.

Ray Pope:

Still hoping to hear from you.

[David JuppParticipant @davidjupp51506]

Zan,

Item 2) – No you can't re-arrange the Ribbon.

Item 4) – Atom3D is sold without 'tech support' subscription (except for licensing and activation problems) – this is to keep the cost down. You can choose to pay (or not) a fee for software updates only. The UK re-seller support option is a special to give new users extra assistance if required (totally optional).

Item 5) – With FEATURE mirror, you have to select each feature that you wish to mirror (no shortcut for all features so far). PART scale or mirror can mirror the entire part. Note that it behaves differently in that it does not leave the original in place. The 2 mirror functions are used for different tasks.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Zan,

1, First I would align the bore of the block with the outside of the bearing. Then if the bearing is flush with the side of the block align those two, if it sticks out then you can enter a dimension. Next align the bore of the bearing with the OD of the shaft and then use mate or align to set how far you want it to stick out.

You will mow be able to rotate the shaft in the bearing but it won't move sideways as you have constrained the sideways positions

 

2, Leave to David

3. You need the Expert version with Keyshot to render but as mentioned in the article ( i think) Simlab Lite is free.

4.£199 one off or £279 with support in UK or see local agent.

5. David again

Edited By JasonB on 02/11/2018 07:04:07

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Assembly problem

Items…..A block housing bearing and shaft

The housing with a hole is anchored on X..Y plane in X direction

A bearing is mated with the shaft

Bearing is mated into the block. All looks good

Colicky the mouse on any menu or in workspace and the bearing and shaft assembly move out still aligned and mated but  always in the same direction, y –

Tried several times, same problem any ideas?

2) is it possible to move the position of the tool groups on the main ribbon bar?

3 is the rendering and reflections seen in Alibra’s web site an extra?

4 what will be the actual cost, to buy at the start and will it need an annual subscription?

5) with mirror  for a symmetrical component, is there a shortcut to select the whole body having created the first half rather than having to select each feature?

Edited By Zan on 01/11/2018 22:38:58 no 5 added

 

Edited By Zan on 01/11/2018 22:42:45