Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Steve CrowParticipant @stevecrow46066]

I get excellent results on my Sherline with silver steel using CCGT inserts with a 6mm JB Cutting Tools holder.

Also with Arc Euro 6mm HSS Co5 tools.

They also work great with brass and EN1A.

With small stuff, It's important to get the centre height bang on.

Edited By Steve Crow on 15/08/2019 17:37:05

[Robert ButlerParticipant @robertbutler92161]

Try ARC Eurotrade having obtained size from machine

Robert Butler

[peak4Participant @peak4]

I think this is the legislation, but I'll stand to be corrected. A word search on "trailer" elicits about 150 matches, but "individual vehicle approval" only about 50, so may be a better place to start.

On one of the links I posted earlier, there is reference to trailers built US and Canadian standards also being accepted, provided they were built over there, approved and subsequently imported, as their standards, whilst different, are considered to be sufficiently rigorous to ensure safety. This again relates to it being a UN requirement/recommendation, rather than just the EU getting all bureaucratic/authoritarian.

I'm sure Plasma is aware, but not that far from him is a DVSA weighbridge, where I've regularly seen vehicles in for what appears to be an inspection as well as a weighing; I was always a bit nervous going past on the way to a rally with my Harvey Frost Towboy and a lot of ironmongery in the back of the Landrover.

Personally I might just pick up a plate off ebay just to keep in stock should I ever need one.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

As you are near to Arc eurotrade, I would pop over and see their products. They are a top quality and well respected firm. As for dro's, they will save you much time and bother, switchable instantly from imperial to metric, and also eliminate the never ending bother of compensating for backlash. I have one on the Z axis and would dearly love them on the X and Y also. Go for them if they are within your budget.

The small MT2 spindle is a limitation unless you are expecting to work on small projects.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I have a WM16 & I can't complain at all at what I've given it to do. I have fitted dro's on mine, from Arc Euro , remote read out type & I've found them a great help in accuracy, wouldn't want to be with out dro's now. if, as you say they are including dro's I would go for it. Usual disclaimer.

George.

[David Watson 3Participant @davidwatson3]

Hi Ian, Thanks for youre promt reply. One of reasons for thinking of the WM14 was the choice of a metric or imperial machine. The Siege is metric only as far as I can tell. I can manage metric thinking but the projects in hand or in future will have imperial sizes on the drawings. I heard the coments about size vers cost before. This size of Mill seems to fit with the size of the Mini Lathe. Another fact in this thinking being location of suppliers. ARC Euro Trade are about an hour from me but Warco are a full day away at least. More thinking required maybe.

[ChrisBParticipant @chrisb35596]

Posted by pgk pgk on 12/08/2019 22:40:21:

Is it off the wall to suggest a 1mm dremel type cutting disc and bodge a mounting for the tool?

pgk

If it were a thin walled say 1mm to 2mm that might work, but I doubt at 7mm…it will be very slow progress I think.

Old mart, I think I'll go for 22mm bore saw. Regarding teeth is there any recommendation, fine or coarse? On the Arceuro shop they have 80mm (max) 22mm bore saws. **LINK** The 1mm thick saw comes with 32 teeth, it is listed as fine teeth but I think it's not.

The 5" saw comes with 124 teeth but it's 1/16" thick, slightly more than I would like it to be, and the bore is 1". Would 124 teeth be fine? I've read on some other thread that too much teeth have a tendency to clog the wheel.

Chris

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

You don't say what depth of cut is required, unless it is 7mm. Remember the cut will not be straight, it will be the diameter of the saw, so the ends of the cut will tail off to zero. The spindle speed will have to be very low, 100 rpm or less if possible, and the saw will have to be kept lubricated, tapping oil would do.

Arceurotrade have a good selection of arbors and saw blades.

[Steve CrowParticipant @stevecrow46066]

Hi Chris,

I also have a Sherline lathe and recently got a set of four 6mm HSS Co5 cutters from Arc Euro Trade. I've found them to be excellent and very sharp. I managed to cut a M1 thread in silver steel with the 60 degree tool. They should be easy to keep sharp with a diamond lap as well.

I also got an insert tool and a few different inserts to try from JB cutting tools. Again, great quality and service.

I've used all the above on brass, mild and silver steel so should be ok for all things horological. Not tried them on pivot steel though!

Steve

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Apologies if this appears twice. I thought I'd replied but inadvertently closed the site while verifying references! Isn't the WWW fun… No?

Right, two suppliers immediately to my mind for HSS and HSS_Cobalt square tool bits or blanks: Tracy Tools and Arc Euro Trade.

For inserted-tip tools & their carbide tips: B.B. Cutting Tools, and Greenwood Tools.

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Of suppliers of good HSS tools, Tracy Tools and Arc Euro spring to my mind immediately, though they, and others, don't seem to advertise in ME and MEW..

For carbide tips "our" main ones are JB Cutting Tools and Greenwood, both selling indexable rather than brazed-on tools.

[Nathan Turner 1Participant @nathanturner1]

A very big thankyou for all of the feedback from everyone!, i didn't expect so much help. Taking Daves comments on-board i realise i've made this very difficult for everyone by not laying out my priorities for the lathe. I would like to use this post to reduce the importance of the d1-4 camlock or comprehensive screwcutting gearbox from my list and hopefully open up more options.

The camlock, which i understand limits me, was in part for safety, being new to the lathe i didnt want to spin a chuck off in reverse or similar and because i already have a 125mm 4 jaw independent and a 125mm magnetic chuck for my tool grinder. I liked the idea of being able to have quick changeover and move partially finished pieces between machines without too much fuss. I'm not very familiar with the other chuck mounting methods. If others can fulfill safety and acceptable speed of change requirements i'm open to them

The screwcutting gearbox. I have dies and use these at the moment. Firstly, is there a great difference in quality of a die-cut vs single point cut thread ? if there is then my priority will be for a better gearbox, if not then a gearbox can be almost unimportant, i will stock up on dies as i need them. As a further point i would place higher emphasis on versatility than speed for this, if there is a gearbox style that is very accomodating to making extra gears for increasing the threadcutting capabilities that would be preferred.

Spindle bore. Really i erred on the side of caution, being set for the life of the lathe. Considering i have a full set of er32 collets and they are well below 38mm i'll consider a smaller spindle bore if i can get to grips with workarounds, an er 40 set seems a waste for me and still doesent hit 38. So far i can consider a 'cat head'/spider setup supported with a fixed steady and four jaw chuck for face work on long bar stock. Part machining features and keeping the stock width as wide as possible to minimise deflection (robin renzetti showed an example of this recently) and being completely unfamiliar with 5c collets ive just discovered step collets, a quick look at arceuro seems to show the maximum capacity around 28mm). Just thse three techniques seem to obviate many instances of the need for a large through-bore but more examples to reassure me it isnt as important as i first felt would be great.

Weight-wise, a new or used machine delivered to me i could stretch to 500kg in weight but would prefer around 300. A used 500kg machine fetched/moved myself i think would be a bit daunting, mainly because i havent done it before, i have access to cheap van rental through a friend and own an import engine hoist but that is it currently.

The use of a DRO for an imperial machine (my inexperience) had completely passed me by, thankyou for mentioning it. If i can reduce the importance of the screwcutting gearbox or at least have good workarounds for my metric needs this opens up a lot of machines.

Most of the work i would like to do is also on the smaller side , mainly tooling for the machines (a lot for the tool and cutter grinder, model is brierley utg6 purchased used), Jigs for knifemaking, building a 2" by 72" beltgrinder including some of the wheels, a 24" by 24" router (i would really like to make the reduction belt pulleys for this amongst other bits) and finally model engines, which as a hobby i'm quite happy to stick to smaller projects with for a long time.

Finally, after tooling up my mill and partly tooling up the grinder i realise the costs involved, nevertheless i have a separate budget for that, this is why i put around 3k as if i find something used with lots of extras ill factor it in. Whilst the budget seems healthy i am in no way averse to going cheaper, in fact i prefer it because it increases the likelyhood of me tinkering and learning more about the machine if it needs work. I've got plenty of measuring gear currently. Thanks again for everyones input.

Nathan

ps, the way this is going you'll have collectively broken all of my wishlist down into nothing! the answers to these questions should hopefully clarify the most important lathe specs

Edited By Nathan Turner 1 on 08/08/2019 20:15:58

Edited By Nathan Turner 1 on 08/08/2019 20:28:20

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

I have the Warco WM-16 and use a Vertex 100mm vise for most of the stuff I'm doing at the moment. I originally fitted one of the small display type of DRO to the machine from ARC Eurotrade. The X scale was screwed to the front of the table on 20mm deep mounts and the scale would often hit the Y-axis winding wheel.

I've since fitted an Easson ES12B with magnetic scales from M-DRO and the X-scale is mounted to the rear of the table. So far I've not been in a situation where the table has needed to be wound back far enough to cause a problem. It really depends on what you intend to machine and how big the initial part is.

Ed.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Arc Euro offer a MT 0 mini live centre at ££11.81 in the catalogue Issue 10, so it will have increased in price by now.

RDG offer MT 0 dead centres , reference 2965901, at £5.94 incl VAT. there may be shipping additional cost.

HTH

Howard

[Mike guitarParticipant @mikeguitar]

Just as a follow up. I had emailed arceurotrade with a question along the same lines. I received a call back from Ian ( very rapid response) how often do you get that kind of service from a supplier?) We had quite a long conversation Ian reiterated never use the emergency stop switch to stop the spindle ( unless of course in an emergency).

basically I can use either method. I think I'll adopt the ( probably old and nerd version) run the spindle speed down each time before pressing stop then run it up again to continue milling. Occasionally I may just push the stop button.

I'll just add I've only had the Mill operational for four days but find it excellent and arcs service unquestionably first class and I've got no axe to grind

[Mike guitarParticipant @mikeguitar]

Hi I've recently bought an sx3 mill. I was pleased with the whole process of the purchase, delivery when promised and delivered very driver pushed mill into garage on palette truck all highly satisfactory. Bought the mill from arceurotrade so congrats to them.

lifted mill onto stand with engine crane no problem whatsoever. I just have a question for other seig sx3 owners. When initially pushing the start button the up arrow enables the final speed of the spindle to be achieved. I appreciate by pressing the stop button at the chosen speed next operation of the spindle resumes from that last speed. I can't quite make my mind up if it's best policy to reduce the spindle speed with the down arrow to its original low speed rpm before pressing stop..just wondered what other owners of the mill do

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by JasonB on 04/08/2019 20:56:33:

Iain, I wonder if some or all of the error you are getting is from incorrect fitting of the collet. looking at some of your photos it looks like the collet is sitting way to far back into the nut.

The collet should be snapped into the nut and then the two fitted to the chuck, our good friends ARC show how to do it here

Iain, before doing anything else can you confirm you now have the collets fitted correctly? The pictures Jason posted clearly show collets NOT clicked properly into the collar, which will cause poor alignment.

Apologies if you're past that mistook and it's already been eliminated as the cause.

Dave

[michael howarth 1Participant @michaelhowarth1]

In my opinion that is an outrageous price. Arc Euro, (indexable lockable handles) for instance are half that price.

Mick

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Iain, I wonder if some or all of the error you are getting is from incorrect fitting of the collet. looking at some of your photos it looks like the collet is sitting way to far back into the nut.

The collet should be snapped into the nut and then the two fitted to the chuck, our good friends ARC show how to do it here

[VicParticipant @vic]

I bought the majority of my ER32 collets from Arceurotrade and haven't had any with defects like burrs etc. I’ve not checked them for accuracy though.

[Mark Gould 1Participant @markgould1]

I have always been very pleased with Arc and have spent several hundred euro’s there. Never had a problem. I sometimes wish they would have more brand name tools however, I’m a bit of a tool snob and like Mitutoyo, Starrett etc. it would be nice if they’d stock some known brands along side their import offerings, which to be honest have been excellent quality by the way.

Mark

[Michael BriggsParticipant @michaelbriggs82422]

I rate Arceurotrade as a reasonably good supplier, I have had problems on two occasions. The first was with a ball bearing collet nut that felt like it was full of sand, it was replaced promptly.

The second instance was when I purchased two pairs of Stevenson’s 10 20 40 blocks. One of the blocks was manufactured with a hole considerably out of alignment. When I spoke to them about the problem I was told that they would not replace such a low cost item (£16) but I could return it for a refund which I did. I did not receive a refund for the return postage on either occasion.

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Its not that long ago since Arc Eurotrade offered a pre delivery service on the machines they sold. I seem to recall it involved stripping the machine down, cleaning, adjusting and generally giving the whole machine the once over.

Ian P

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Grotto, Dave's [SOD] comment is very pertinent :-

Before cutting metal to fix a problem I like to be certain of the cause. One thing's for sure; removing metal from the wrong place is likely to add more problems.

Dave

Also Micheal G and MickB1 have good points, particularly Mick's comment about the spindle scuffs, looking at your photo's I would polish the machine spindle register under power with very fine or worn wet & dry – just enough to remove any surface grime or small burrs, DO NOT remove any scoring or deep marks just polish the surface, probably best with the paper wrapped on a suitable piece of flat metal. Remember to lubricate this area with oil [not grease] when fitting your chucks etc.

The dial indicator type you need is similar to this **LINK** I'm sure you will find a local supply of something similar

John