Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

+1 for Arc Euro.

I went to Leicester to pick mine up from them. They tested it for basic function in front of me to ensure it was OK and Ketan (I think t'was he) spent 10 or 15 minutes answering questions and talking to me about it – and it was only a C0 baby lathe for a titchy space in some temporary accommodation.

[Roger WoollettParticipant @rogerwoollett53105]

Since distance between centres is important to you remember that the quoted distance is with the chuck removed and plain centres in head and tail stocks. The maximum size of workpiece you can realistically turn may be a lot less.

As has been said Arc Euro have an excellent reputation. Their range is smaller than many of their competitors but seems to be carefully chosen.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Not much support for the ebay route above.

It is the way to go for the vey cheapest option ….maybe.

Importation will cost extra in customs taxes, VAT, etc.

What warranty do you get from an imported lathe? Return to supplier could be an expensive operation!

What is the spares situation with one of these machines. Likely less than optimal.

Very often it is better to pay an apparent little extra to buy from a UK supplier. Especially so, if the purchaser is new to the hobby. Buying from ebay can be closely akin to buying second hand in your situation.

Arc Euro have several machines on display (lathes and mills) and can advise, supply and provide a good warranty for your purchase. They are my ‘go to’ for most of my bits and pieces purchases ( my main machines are all old English iron).

Chester Machine tools are clearly closer than ARC, but my preference would be the latter for several reasons (mesage me if you really need them). Warco are even further afield for you.

[Old SchoolParticipant @oldschool]

Have a look at Arceuro,s Seig SC2 or SC3, i have used the my sons SC3 its a nice small lathe capable of doing real work. I think anything smaller you would struggle making parts for air rifles.

If you can visit Arceuro they have the machines on display and they are very helpful, i live local and use them regularly.

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

I tend to buy top quality brands, second hand on Ebay. I am lucky to have facilities so that I can sharpen them myself. Surprisingly most were excellent to reasonably sharp. Only a few have been blunt.

Recently I had to make a complex Church Door key and wanted the saws to be correct width. I never have any luck in trying to cut a larger slot than the width of the saw, using a couple of passes. So I purchased what I needed from Arc Eurotrade. The slitting saws were pretty damn good and the price was also good. I assume they come from China, but Ketan's QC always works for me and I have only ever had good stuff from Arc

The only other place I have tried was Tracy Tools, some were brand names, but heftily discounted.

Andrew.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Samsaranda on 27/08/2019 19:31:01:

… When I bought the previous one I thought perhaps if I pay a reasonable amount then it might last a fair while, it cost me £29.99 which I thought got me out of the bargain basement area where reliability might be an issue…

Dave W

Well there's your problem Dave! Paying extra doesn't guarantee quality. I hope I'm not letting the cat out of the bag by pointing out there's nothing new about buying a pig in a poke.

Very few things do guarantee quality. Currency and old masters are forged. Banks manipulate interest rates. Contracts have small print. Air Force One was found to contain counterfeit parts despite the elaborate system of traceability used to ensure aircraft components are made to a standard. Previously trustworthy brand-names are sold to the highest bidder.

Here's the problem. There's always a percentage of humanity out to make a quick buck by nicking stuff, conning pensioners, evading taxes, carpet-bagging, ambulance chasing, cornering the market, overcharging, and selling time-expired pharmaceuticals and other shoddy goods.

Fortunately few of these techniques are a good way of making a living. Apart from the risk of meeting a policeman, selling cheap tat isn't profitable in the long run and there is constant pressure on manufacturers to up their game. There is far more money at the higher end of the market where reputation counts. There's a kind of inevitability to it – all manufacturing economies tend to follow the same path: they start at the cheap end and gradually move up-market. Most of us will remember 50 years ago when 'Made in Japan' meant 'Rubbish', today Japan = 'Quality'. None of us are old enough to remember when German and American goods were reviled for being third-rate or worse, or that 30 years before that most of the world's gimcrack trash was made in Birmingham, England. China is no different; on average the quality of what they produce is improving steadily.

By and large the system works reasonably well. Most of the goods and services I've bought over the last 40 years have been satisfactory. My home is full of CE Marked equipment still working happily years out of warranty, and I've never been electrocuted or burned the house down. This is very strange because it's well known that CE marks are a Sino-European con-trick invented solely to give poor innocent John Bull a sore bottom.

BUT! Unfortunately, consumers are always exposed to the criminal end. Buying anything is always a risk, whether it be a LED Lamp or a Mortgage with hidden PPI. You can't assume anything. Always read the small print and apply your best judgement to purchases. I prefer buying from sources who care about their reputation; not foolproof, but I have to say that ArcEuroTrade, Warco, and other suppliers have all been far more honest than my High Street Bank. Be a lert, Britain needs Lerts…

Dave

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I found the advert .

It was on Stakesy’s website, but perhaps not of european manufacture.

**LINK**

850W input but only 445W output. Some considerable difference, that! Only a little over 50%

Now, if the Warco motor is of similar ilk, I do wonder what the real truth is, regarding the power of the machine.

If the output is a real 900W (which I would expect of a Warco product) then the heat loss could be as much as 225W at only 80% efficiency. But note Dave’s comment about far east imports so could be worse – but hope it’s not.

If on the other hand… on the same efficiency as the example above, the real power could be 900*445/850 = 470W with a heat dissipation of 430W!. That would be some heat to dissipate to the motor casing and to the forced air cooling.

Those figures would/should not apply for a motor running at low power. But who knows!

Edited to add that those input/output figures might include some mechanical losses, I suppose, but doubt it.

Edited By not done it yet on 26/08/2019 18:51:47

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Most collets are hard and ready to go. I don't recognise "unground collets" as a thing, but you may mean "Emergency Collets". These are sold soft so you can drill out the centre to hold a non-standard size. Explanation here at ArcEuro.

Dave

[VicParticipant @vic]

I’m sorry if this has been asked before but is there any particular reason why you aren’t using a lathe chuck rather than one on a Morse taper?

**LINK**

[Chris TickTockParticipant @christicktock]

Thanks Guys the consensus is ArcEurotrade or Tracy Tools…thanks again.

Chris

[peak4Participant @peak4]

I can't speak for all suppliers, but if you definitely need 1/4", make sure you don't end up with 6mm.
I appreciate that ArcEurotrade do list both, but I've been supplied with the wrong ones in the past, but not I should add by Ketan at Arc

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 23/08/2019 23:56:08

[Jed MartensParticipant @jedmartens56976]

I didn't last very long shimming tools in the tool-post that came with the lathe, and ordered a qctp from Arc Euro…

**LINK**

There was a helpful article in MEW detailing how the tool-post was fitted to a Chester lathe. My lathe has a different kind of compound, but it was still helpful to get an insight into how the tool-post was fixed.

**LINK**

Here is the GH600 compound – it has a fixing post that is M10, and has a shoulder at the bottom that is wider (22mm from memory)

The tool-post fixes via a 16mm rod, and it comes with a base-plate that the rod screws into. I believe the idea is to machine the base-plate and slot that into the compound, but my compound has no t-slot…

So instead I cut the 16mm rod to an appropriate length and drilled a deep hole that was internally threaded M10 at the end….

This screwed down onto the compound post. Next, I had to bore the base of the tool-post so that it cleared the 22mm shoulder.

That was no fun at all. My mill was struggling with the cheap boring head and chattering like crazy. I got there in the end, and the surface finish is rubbish, but it's a better fit than the original tool-post holder.

And here it is fitted…

There was one last problem. Some of my tooling was still above the centre-line, even with the holder at its lowest setting, so I had to mill a few millimetres from the bottom of the holder.

It all appears to work as expected. My nerves were shot after drilling the rod and boring the tool-post, as it was my first time doing those kind of operations, and any mistake could well be costly. But I am happy with the results.

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

Arc Eurotrade or Tracy tools sell them, I have purchased toolbits from both companies and have no complaints.

[Mike DonnerstagParticipant @mikedonnerstag]

What do people think about boring the back of a small four-jaw chuck to fit onto the tailstock barrel, and fitting grub screws to lock it, and possibly adjust the concentricity? That would save some length otherwise taken by a backplate. Keeping the assembly as short as possible reduces the amount of bend in the violin bow that the barrel would need to accommodate.

To this end, would it be possible to machine the jaws of a chuck to reduce the protrusion? How hard are chuck jaws? The chuck I was thinking about is the 60mm Indian chuck supplied by Arc Euro:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Lathe-Chucks/4-Jaw-Self-Centring-Cast-Iron-Lathe-Chucks-Indian-Origin-by-Zither

Does anyone know of an alternative, ideally shorter, self-centring 4-jaw chuck?

Once again, any help gratefully received!

Mike

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

Ausee who advertise on the RH side of this page sell Seig machines and are based in Australia. I am sure that Ketan at Arc Euro would recommend them.

[Chris TickTockParticipant @christicktock]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 20/08/2019 16:09:06:

Silver Steel is usually sold as Silver Steel, aka Drill Rod in the US, with no magic number needed.

O1 is an American specification for a Tool Steel, not an Engineering or Structural Steel. It's European Specification is 100MnCrW4, but it's often called O1 in the UK, for example as sold by Metal Supermarkets.

For historical reasons steel specifications are a confusing muddle. Nationally, internationally, commercially and over time. Following old plans can have you frantically searching for apparently exotic materials simply because the terminology has changed. Not many know what Muirkirk No 1 is, nor is it likely to matter much, because mild-steel is better!

Fortunately most of us only use a few common alloys and it gets easier once you know what 's needed in your workshop and stocked up, perhaps from a Horological specialist. However it's rarely necessary to use exactly the steel specified : for making a clock I'd think 4130, 4140, and En19 are so similar as to be indistinguishable.

Dave

Great reply Dave

Chris

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Silver Steel is usually sold as Silver Steel, aka Drill Rod in the US, with no magic number needed.

O1 is an American specification for a Tool Steel, not an Engineering or Structural Steel. It's European Specification is 100MnCrW4, but it's often called O1 in the UK, for example as sold by Metal Supermarkets.

For historical reasons steel specifications are a confusing muddle. Nationally, internationally, commercially and over time. Following old plans can have you frantically searching for apparently exotic materials simply because the terminology has changed. Not many know what Muirkirk No 1 is, nor is it likely to matter much, because mild-steel is better!

Fortunately most of us only use a few common alloys and it gets easier once you know what 's needed in your workshop and stocked up, perhaps from a Horological specialist. However it's rarely necessary to use exactly the steel specified : for making a clock I'd think 4130, 4140, and En19 are so similar as to be indistinguishable.

Dave

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 20/08/2019 10:40:35:

Am sure that Arc Euro will help if at all possible. Since you have a Seig machine, it is likely that they can

Howard

I doubt it is economic to send hand wheels to the other side of the Earth? China is much closer and better (subsidised?) postal rates!

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Am sure that Arc Euro will help if at all possible. Since you have a Seig machine, it is likely that they can

Howard

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

ArcEuro sell the Shield Technology products – never used them to protect anything personally, but it might be worth a phone call?

[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

Have you asked Arc Euro?
They carry metal hand wheels for lathes, maybe they would fit the mill?

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

These are far less common than the Cl250M lathes they fit on and may sell quite well – I suspect parting with it and putting the money towards a small mill (I have a SX1L from Arc Euro £387 at present)  will work out far easier and cheaper than converting this accessory with a compound table, motor controller, case etc

 

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 18/08/2019 13:45:40

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The right hand holder is the most versatile and the same can be said of the CC** shaped inserts so any 6mm shank (don't really come in imperial) SCLCR holder will work as well as the JB cutting tools one linked to earlier you could try one from Glanze or ARC as they are all of a resonable quality for a reasonable price.

If you drop down the JB tools page you will see the CCGT inserts listed or these are reasonable quality in packs of two.

These inserts are not handed, they will fit left, right & neutral holders as well as boring bars. One holder will take all tip radius inserts of the same basic shape

Edited By JasonB on 16/08/2019 15:33:37

[Chris TickTockParticipant @christicktock]

Posted by Steve Crow on 15/08/2019 17:34:27:

I get excellent results on my Sherline with silver steel using CCGT inserts with a 6mm JB Cutting Tools holder.

Also with Arc Euro 6mm HSS Co5 tools.

They also work great with brass and EN1A.

With small stuff, It's important to get the centre height bang on.

Edited By Steve Crow on 15/08/2019 17:37:05

Hi Steve what exactly is a 6mm JB Cuttings tool holder and where can i sorce one from. The main problem identified with inserts according to a poster here is fine cutting are the CCGT insets up to precision work?

Chris