Search Results for 'arc euro'

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If it is this one then that is not really for turning. Primerily for tapping/threading but can be used for drilling and reaming where it is unlikely to get hot.

On Friday I’m taking delivery of a new Seig SX3.5ZP from Arc Euro Trade.

I’ve been thinking about a new Mill for some time and the discounts being offered helped decide things. Whenever someone asks here what size of machine to buy, the general advice has been to get the largest machine you can afford and house. In terms of affordability, the price difference between the smallest SX2.7 and the SX3.5 was not very large, given the larger table size, increased speed range and the power head lift/table feed (I’m getting on!).

Housing it has been more of a problem, as my garage/workshop is already stuffed full. A week of moving, dismantling and cleaning out has improved things a little but not much. I’ve made one trip to the Tip already and will go again today. All those ‘come in handy’ items are finally meeting their maker. However, hopefully there is now room for the delivery.

The reason for my post, is that although the SX3.5ZP will hopefully meet all my expected needs, it may be a little bit unusual/unique. Most Seig owners here seem to have varients of the SX2.7 and SX3. As far as I can see, only ARC offer the SX3.5ZP in the UK and it was their most expensive mill, so possibly didn’t sell in huge numbers.

In the US, the Little Machine Shop offer the HiTorque 6770 Deluxe Large Bench Mill, which has the DRO (but not the table feed) and is based on the same underlying SX3.5 design. There may be other Seig suppliers in the US but I haven’t searched any further yet.

The reason for my post, is I’m wondering if there are other SX3.5 owners here, as I’d like to feel a little bit less ‘on my own’ in some respects at the moment.   🙂

Regards,

 

IanT

[IanT]

On IanT Said:

I’ve been a very satisfied customer for 17 years Ketan (as have my sons, in terms of many Birthday & Christmas presents for their poor old Dad!) – so I am very sad to hear that you are closing down. I hope you enjoy your well earned retirement for many more years to come.

However, as the (soon to be) new owner of a Seig Mill I’ve just purchased from ARC (albeit at a very good discount) can I ask what warrenty arrangements (if any) there will be going forward please?

Regards,

 

IanT

Hi IanT,

As stated on our website: link

Ketan at ARC

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Ketan,

Have a long and happy retirement.

Arc Euro have been my preferred supplier for many years

The service provided by you and your staff has always been exemplary.

You will all be sadly missed.

Howard

This is just to let everyone know that Arc Euro Trade is in the process of closing the engineering tools and machinery part of the business.

To achieve this goal, we are selling off certain products to our competitors. At the same time, we are selling off products at discounted rates to end user customers via marketing emails to our mailing list subscribers and via google search promotions.

The result is that a good range of certain products/categories are sold out. In turn we are getting calls and emails from potential customers enquiring when we are likely to get new stock, especially for items which are now out of stock.

Initially, the plan was to continue the business, if I could find a suitable buyer for it, or, if I could see a natural progression/successor. So my team has been advising potential customers that they didn’t know when a certain item will come back in, and/or it could take between three to six months. However, as continuation is an option which is off the table, and as I have now made a clear decision to close the engineering tools and machinery part of the business, we will not be re-stocking any product, once it is sold out.

My apologies to potential customers for any inconvenience due to this. Moving forward, my team has been advised to direct enquirers accordingly.

Most of the stock we are selling off now is being sold at a loss, just to raise cash for the items we still have. The discounted prices give the customer the opportunity to buy a ‘usually more expensive’ product cheap, but only while stocks last.

To avoid speculation, I would like to clarify:

– Arc Euro Trade Ltd. is financially sound and reason for closing is that I wish to retire. 🙂

Thank you, Ketan at ARC

[DC31k]

On DC31k Said:

On bernard towers Said:

I think Jasons found the only possibility in the world…

A man called Ali, who sends things by Express, will sell you you a complete R8 spindle for around £70 shipped. True, it is more money than the Arc one, but it offers a solution in a different shape.

A man called Ketan will sell you a similar spare mill spindle for £45 so less than Ali. But still not the cheapest a sthat is what I linked to first

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

I bought a short R8 spindle from ARC, a spare part for one of their mills. It has been running in the Tom Senior light vertical for years now married up with the splined original top half. check their machine spares, they are not very expensive.

 

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/SX2LF-Mill-Spares/SX2LF-115-Spindle

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

This any good, cut the INT end off.

Probably the best use for it. I bought the INT40 version some while ago and it took a lot of fettling to make it usable. The INT40 taper was ok but a collet wouldn’t fit in the R8 taper before easing. Concentricity between the tapers wasn’t great either at between one and two thou.

Julie

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

This any good, cut the INT end off.

[HowiParticipant @howi]

some questions to ask ones self in this situation:-

am i expecting anything to be delivered?

is delivery likely to be via evri?

have you given them your phone number? if not how have they got it?

you will have a tracking number – have they quoted it?

a house number is not needed for delivery (it does help though!

What is behind the link they sent?

why reply to the sms?

——————————————————–

Now I have one for you (all of you that is)

I recently ordered some bits from Aliexpress and noticed postage on individual items has increased alarmingly, so fished around to get the items with free postage.

Items were ordered, tracking number given, fast on route to airport, then communication from EVRI that parcel was expected.

Parcel gets through customs then onto EVRI delivery hub.

I then get a message that the parcel is on the delivery wagon and expected sometime that day.

within an hour I received a message from their customer care rep to say the parcel appears to be lost but they will chase up and deliver asap.

Many days pass, the EVRI app shows it out for delivery but the date has not changed.

I go on the EVRI website and speak to a bot asking where my parcel is – no or limited response

this goes on for a few more days then I get a communication from Alexpress saying that because delivery is outside the quoted time I get  a pound refund for each item.

go onto EVRI app/site and delivery is complete dated many days ago

return to Aliexpress site and quote items not received and get my money back.

what a faff for a 10 pound spend

I suspect that the items were never sent and collaberation between Aliexpress and EVRI – or am I being neurotic?

I suspect that Aliexpress would rather I order similar items with the raised postage at double the original price.

 

[VicParticipant @vic]

As mentioned, collet blocks are an easy way of doing this. I have several ER32 versions. Another method I use is with a Spin Indexer.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/5C-Fixtures/Stevensons-5C-Indexing-Head-with-ER32-Nut-and-Adaptor

 

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

Re; the ArcEuro toolposts – I have a ‘100’ size and (I’m fairly certain) it’ll be too big* – have a look at their ‘000’ size and see if it’s more to size.

*I’m using it on a 280mm/11″ swing machine – it’s very good.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Will this fit? – M14 stud. The next size up is M16 but probably too big.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathe-Accessories/Tool-Posts/Model-100-Quick-Change-Tool-Post-Set

 

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The shanks of HSS drills are not hard that is why it bent and why they get chewed up if they spin in a drill chuck.

If you want to try HSS the buy a 4mm “drill blank” or round tool blank. Hss will be less likely to bend but it is brittle.

Dowel pins are also a possibility being ground and unles excessively long not easy to bend. They have a good finish and should be on size.

[mgjParticipant @mgj]

Vic it is – depending on the lathe. Some, the topslide doesn’t have enough travel to cut a full MT length , which can make it a bit awkward.

And a tiny error  – in fact ANY error –  in the setting angle means you only have contact at one point. It will probably lock in, but if you haven’t got full contact I found that under load it would move. (OK IMO for tapping guides and non critical stuff like that though)

In the end, even having built a taper turning attachment for the Myford, (Hemingway) which I’ve used for other long tapers under powerfeed,  (TE conrods), I found, for the cost and effort involved, for tool holders, it was just easier and cheaper to go the someone like Arceurotrade and buy some blank adaptors in MT2, MT 3 and R8.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Arc Euro list a belt for the C!, as a spare. C1-131 at £7.36 plus £3.50 carriage, but sadly out of stock!

Take a look at their website., for any other possible spares.

Since you have the details of the belt, you should be able to find one from a local bearing / belt/ engineering supplier.

Howard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Chris 12

You have  taken the first steps to climb the learning curve (It goes on for ever!)

You are doing the right thing by practicing on relatively cheap material, rather than something expensive, like a part from a kit.

As you gain confidence and experience, you could continue to learn by making simple tools that will not only give experience, and confidence, but can be used in the future.

I would suggest, as a start, making a Centre Height Gauge. Once made, it will help setting up tools in the lathe. An off centre tool does not cut properly, and leaves a pip on the middle when facing the end of a bar, so it is useful for that reason.

When you find a need to cut threads, start by using Taps and Dies.  Zeus charts, and charts provided by folk such as Tracy Tools, will show the sizes for various threads (Use your books to learn the difference between different thread types, their forms and uses. If you have not got it, Tubal Cain’s “Model Engineer’s Handbook” is a good reference book to have)

Then you can start to make a Sliding Die Holder for the Tailstock You can buy the sets of Die holders, and Arbor to make your own body. Have a look at supplier websites, such as Arc Euro Trade, Warco or RDG

No one seems to sell anything for a Sliding Tap Holder.A pity, since the load need to drag the tailstock  along the lathe bed, can strip the newly cut thread. (ME 40 threads are particularly fine, and therefore shallow, so can easily strip).

A small drill chuck attached to a body which slides on the arbor, will accommodate a variety of Tap sizes.  There are other ways of holding Taps, but making the holders involve techniques that are not suitable for a newbie.

Don’t forget to reverse the Tap regularly, to break and clear the swarf.  They are less likely to break and scrap the job, that way!

For thread cutting, you will need a lubricant, such as Trefolex or Rocol RTD.

Until you are more experienced, do not worry about screwcutting, or you will become embroiled in working out gear trains, some of which can be complicated,, and the techniques for taking multiple cuts without losing your place, and ruining what you have already done.

When you have mastered the ability to provide a steady, consistent feed, by hand than you can think about power feeds.

Again, this will mean you learning how to set up a gear train to give the right ratio between chuck and Leadscrew.  All part of the learning to walk before trying to run.

P M me if you want more details about Centre Height Gauges, or Sliding Die or Tap holders.

HTH

Howard

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

The difficulty of sharpening HSS can be avoided by using carbide inserts.  Grinding HSS is an acquired skill, not everyone is good at it, and for many purposes carbide is better, or at least more convenient.  Carbide inserts are precision made and shaped with edges and relief needed to cut optimally.   Inserts fit accurately into the holder so there is no need to reset tool-height when one breaks; just swap in a new insert, or rotate a fresh corner into position.

 

A beginner advantage is that inserts eliminate grinding mistakes!  Starting out, self-teaching oneself to cut metal for the first time with a new lathe, it may pay to avoid having to buy a grinder and learn how to use it.  Save grinding HSS for later.

Inserts aren’t entirely plane sailing because shapes optimised for industry may not perform well on slow, underpowered and not very rigid hobby machines.   Inserts also come in bewildering variety*.  Nonetheless, at least 80% of my hobby turning is done with inserts because they save a great deal of time compared with HSS.  HSS isn’t redundant: once in a blue moon, carbide struggles to produce a good finish, so I switch to HSS.  Another reason  for HSS is it can be ground into non-standard form shapes for special cutting.  Form cutting is rarely needed in my workshop, but might be common in yours.

*Hints: the range of inserts sold by ArcEuro are a good match to hobby requirements. Also, the sharp inserts normally used by industry on non-ferrous metals perform well in a hobby machine cutting steel.

Dave

 

 

 

Hi all,

I’ve availed myself of the ER25 collet block sets from ArcEuroTrade and a set of imperial ER25 collets, and realised that I could use those selfsame collets to hold non-Clarkson Autolock milling cutters in my mill. The only problem is that my mill is 2MT/MT2 and has a 3/8″ BSW drawbar – with absolutely no clearance down the spindle to fit an M10 – and I cannot find the combination of an ER25 collet holder in 2MT/MT2 with a 3/8″ BSW drawbar ANYWHERE.

Is there one available somewhere on the corner of the internet I haven’t managed to winkle out?

Many thanks,

[noel shelley]

On noel shelley Said:

Hi Chris, The flat cross slide is not very handy.Not sure we know where you are but I’m sure there are people on here who could help you. If your near me in North Norfolk then I have all the gear. Bring the materials flat plate Etc and a sketch – soon get it done. Noel

I am from Stafford. Havent checked the local clubs yet to be honest. Might have a look…

My plan is the following : buy an (overpriced) machined plate with suitable dimensions (such as this one : https://norelem.co.uk/en/Product-overview/Clamping-technology/01000/Plates/Rectangular-plates-precision-steel/Plo%C5%A1%C4%8Da-pravokoten-jeklo/p/01130-04X250) and 2 additional tee nuts to go in the cross slide. Then on the subplate, drill 4 holes to attach the subplate to the cross slide, and 2 holes to fix the vertical slide to the subplate. hope that makes sense…

 

On Bazyle Said:

If you haven’t got a mill use the lathe. If you haven’t even got a lathe use a file. Better than just giving up and not doing anything. Overcoming the difficulties can be fun and ‘builds character’.

Fully agree !

 

On JasonB Said:

The two existing studs would be quite adequate to allow you to make use of the slide to make a subplate that the slide can be mounted to.

Having said that the standard Myford setup that has served 1000s of model engineers over the years only uses two studs so as I said would do as it is.

SillyOldDuffer. What vertical slide are you basing your opinions on? was it a flimsy one that is supplied for many mini-lathes or in the case of the OP a copy of the popular Myford Design which is far more rigid, has more capacity, more travel and more tee slots.

Chris12. I bought the Myford version of what you show over 35yrs ago as that was all that was available then. The ARC one looks to be based on that and is quite a bit cheaper so not such a waste of money if later on you do decide to buy a milling machine. They still have their uses and mine gets used where it is the best tool for the job and I have 3 other mills to choose from.

Thanks, I was actually thinking of that one. Looks basic and robust.

 

On Andrew Crow Said:

Chris, just a further thought, unless you are going to be doing a lot of angular work I would go for basic fixed slide. It will be more rigid for most of the work you will probably do and there are other ways to produce angles if required.

I still use my vertical slide even though I have a small milling machine, for some jobs it’s easier to set up and to see.

Andy.

Not planning to do any angle work at this stage. Already thought about the rigidity issue of the swivelling ones…

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The two existing studs would be quite adequate to allow you to make use of the slide to make a subplate that the slide can be mounted to.

Having said that the standard Myford setup that has served 1000s of model engineers over the years only uses two studs so as I said would do as it is.

SillyOldDuffer. What vertical slide are you basing your opinions on? was it a flimsy one that is supplied for many mini-lathes or in the case of the OP a copy of the popular Myford Design which is far more rigid, has more capacity, more travel and more tee slots.

Chris12. I bought the Myford version of what you show over 35yrs ago as that was all that was available then. The ARC one looks to be based on that and is quite a bit cheaper so not such a waste of money if later on you do decide to buy a milling machine. They still have their uses and mine gets used where it is the best tool for the job and I have 3 other mills to choose from.

Hi,

 

just received my new lathe, a Chester DV8S. So far, no bad surprise 🙂

 

I’m looking at the options to do some light milling on it, until I get a proper milling machine. I was wondering how to attach the vertical slide to the lathe (for example, this one : https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathe-Accessories/Vertical-Slides/Vertical-Slide-5×4-Fixed)

 

Is it ok to use the the screws from the compound slide ?

Many articles online explain how to attach a vertical slide to the cross slide by drilling/tapping holes, however i dont have a mill (obviously) nor a drill. Thus my machining options are right now very limited.

 

Thanks for any feedback !

Chris

 

[Sonic EscapeParticipant @sonicescape38234]

Today I went to the San Antoni book flea market (Barcelona). About 99% of the books are non-technical. But I saw four very interesting old volumes. Two of them have almost no text at all, just a lot of diagrams with various old machines. And the other two contain countless diagrams of simple mechanisms. But unfortunately they were very expensive, 120 euros this one.

Also in the area I came across some Pakistani second hand shops, or something like that. They don’t even show up on Google Maps. They have all kinds of tools at very low prices.

These things are from the toolbox for 0.5 euros each

I also found an interesting MT3 milling cutter. I think it’s for making T slots. The cutting part is covered with some kind of rubber. But I can’t imagine how it could cut steel with my milling machine without chatter. It’s too long.

And why are the teeth not aligned?

And a bag of M10 screws never hurts.

 

 

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

For auto feed, presumably to get the best surface finish, set up the gear train so that the Leadscrew revolves as slowly as possible, relative to the chuck.

In the case of the C2 and C3 mini lathes,the gear set enables a train of 20:80/20:80 to be set, so that with a 16:1 reduction and a 1.5 mm pitch leadscrew, the feed rated is 0.09375 mm per rev. (0.0037″ in old money)

The 80/20 gears are compounded by means of a key connecting the two gears, on the stud.

It MIGHT be possible to use gears from the C2 and C3 on the C1 (They are Mod 1, and the bore and thickness might be the same)  to supplement those that you already have.

Spare gears are available, from importers, so measure one of your gears, and count the teeth.

The formula is          (Teeth+2) / OD in mm = Module

To see what is available take a look at the Arc Euro Trade website. (“C3 Change gears”) They list gears from 30 up to 80 teeth in 5T increments.  If you are unsure about dimensions of the C2 and C3 gears, ring or E mail. I am sure that they will be most helpful

Howard

[VicParticipant @vic]

These always seem to be good value?

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Lathe-Chucks/3-Jaw-Self-Centring-Cast-Iron-Lathe-Chucks-Chinese-Origin