Search Results for 'arc euro'

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Ronan

Try here

Probably not super precision – but not super price either! There again are you making parts for the aircraft industry? As with all things in life you get what you pay for. I have a set and find them OK for lots of things – they also have the advantage, useful at times, of being thin. As David says though 6", with a bit hanging out each end, will be fine.

Regards

Norman

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

Ask Ketan at Arc Euro Trade about bearings.

regards david

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Allan Smith 6 & Ewers and others,

I looked at your milling table drive photos and there is probably some of the answers to our problem contained in them, although it does not synchronise with the spindle as in our case.
That's why I referred in a previous message the necessity/convenience of some more, simple or complex, electronics to provide pulses (1, 2, 3, n pulses by a revolution of the spindle).

Can you tell us what stepper motor you used and the available torque?
For motorizing the X axis of my milling BF20 I made some experiments with stepper motors, first from salvage and then from Arc Euro Trade (AET).
Soon I put the salvaged motors aside because for most of them there was not any information. Also, fearing the risk of not finding an equal motor in case of failure, made me chose AET motors. Their price is acceptable for my purpose.

Firstly I experimented a motor from AET ref. 160-010-00200 having the torque of 180Ncm. Its power was perfectly enough to drive the BF20 table. However after awhile I experimented with a more powerful motor 220Ncm, also from AET (ref. 160-010-0400) having the torque of 220Ncm.
There's another stepper motor less powerful also from AET (160-010-00100) having the torque of 36Ncm.
Just as an opinion, I think that the stepper motor having 180Ncm torque is enough and a good acquisition

is it easy to change direction and is the potentiometer used to increase the voltage and therefore the speed of the motor?
Yes it is. In one of the boards I have (I bought two), a friend of mine, after removing the original onboard potentiometer, applied an external one with two cables soldered on the board, and also applied a small resistance just to allow me to control the voltage remotely. Problem is, the potentiometer and resistance used were the ones I had at hand, not the most adequate. So the outside voltage control never was tested as it should and I am using now a new driver.
The change of direction may be done whilst the system is running.

What is the power source is it a standard item that you can buy?
I use two independent power sources. One for the logic (the board) and other for the motor.
The first is a mobile telephone charger.
The other is an 12Volt 3Amper common power source,

No disrespect to you Dias, your layout is typical of an amateur such as myself with the components exposed and the control of the motor done directly from the board.
Yes you are right. I'm always expecting to ameliorate the system but it never happens. And I already had problems caused by swarf. Had luck the board is robust and resisted to the swarf short circuiting some components.

Is it possible to have the controls remote from the board so as to make the whole thing more tidy and presentable.
Yes it is. You only need to de-solder the direction switch and the potentiometer and replace both by cables connected to the appropriate components.
There is one more switch to chose from inboard control or external control you must put in INT position.
To stop and start I use this switch but I think the best and correct way is to cut the power for the logic and for the motor simultaneously.

Hope I answered all questions you asked and my answers arte of some utility.

Best regards
Dias Costa

Edited By dcosta on 29/08/2012 18:17:27

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

First thoughts on updating the Exactus Fine Feed:

The Eccentric drive and Ratchet arrangement is very ingeneous; but I believe it could usefully be replaced by a simple pulse generator, driver circuit, and stepper motor.

The new generation of stepper motor drivers is extremely efficient and very easy to implement.

For our purposes, the best option is probably the A3983 from Allegro Microsystems.

This extraordinary little device takes all the hard work out of the job. [for a full description, see the dataheet hyperlinked above].

The device comes as a "Surface Mount" package, and the thought of soldering it would worry most of us!

Fortunately, it is readily available built into a plug-in module … and we only need basic soldering skills to complete the job. Modules are available from several suppliers, but I have been very impressed with the JAFmotion MicroStep.

I won't labour it here … the details are on the website, and it really is as easy as it looks!

Highlights are:

Wide voltage range

Presettable current

Choice of stepping modes [full steps, 1/2, 1/4, or 1/8 steps]

Stepping mode can be changed whilst the circuit is powered.

So far as I can see; the only way to destroy this is by disconnecting the motor whilst powered.

Power requirements are 5V for the circuitry and something suitable for the motor

… I start with 12V, but the chip can handle up to 35V.

Both voltages are DC, and various laptop or games console power supplies may be suitable if you don't want to build one.

A pulse generator might be as simple as a Reed Switch, actuated by a small magnet.

… There are numerous alternatives, according to taste.

As supplied, and without additional cooling, the A3983 will safely drive up to 1.2A per phase.

… This is sufficient for a surprisingly powerful stepper motor.

Now to Stepper Motors:

For years these were a mystery to many … not least because of the wide variety of wiring arrangements.

Anything between four and eight leads, and no apparent standard for the colour code.

It's much easier now, because A3983 and similar are BiPolar drivers [i.e. the outputs change polarity], and we only need connect four leads to the driver: The others are either joined together, or left unconnected, according to the impedance that we want for each phase [happy to explain this further if anyone needs help].

So [assuming we use A3983] we need a stepper motor with four or more leads, that will provide adequate torque when pulling no more than 1.2A. There should be plenty to choose from.

I have put some photos in an album, showing an old Burroughs Dot Matrix printer that I stripped for parts. Both motors are 48 steps per rev, but the coil impedances are quite different … one is 8.5 Ohms per phase, the other is 50 Ohms per phase. Note that there is no voltage specified.

These are "tin can" motors, simply fixed via two screws.

The other standard frame is NEMA, which comes in various frame sizes; the most likely candidates being 17 and 23

Note that these are usually 200 steps per rev.

… There are useful details in [for example] the ArcEuroTrade catalogue.

Sorry if this post is a little disjointed … but hopefully there is enough to spark some interest.

If someone could please check what torque is reasonably required to drive the leadscrew, then we can make some informed choices.

MichaelG.

[Will RobertsonParticipant @willrobertson16447]

Hi Clive,

Worried to hear about the proximity of the hornets. How destructive are they to the bees?

Now that the metal stock is decided on I reckoned I'd start on the tooling. Please let me know if I've got anything wrong:

For milling the valve faces of the slide valve of the S50 and other general milling I reckoned a handful of HSS end mills **LINK** rather than the carbide end mills (10 times more expensive) **LINK**

For milling the block of scrap cast iron for the base plate will the HSS endmills be tough enough or should I fork out the extra cash for carbide? (Guessing that carbide endmills may be difficult to sharpen without a specialist stone.)

I'll just hold the endmills in the existing ER collets and collet chuck on the milling machine – that should easily be strong enough for light cuts (correct me if I'm wrong about any of this…).

I think there are enough parallels, mounting bolts, etc for the milling machine.

For boring Reboring tool IFANGER ASB Standard, cobalt **LINK** (let me know if this is appropriate or not – I may have misunderstood your recommendation)

Will

[StovepipeParticipant @stovepipe]

Posted by Wolfie on 27/08/2012 16:14:08:

I have to commend Arc Euro by the way, a very efficient set up, ……….a quite decent mug of tea. Much recommended.

The really decisive criterion – the shop tea.

My experiences by mail order from them confirm that they are an efficient outfit, and a pleasure to deal with.

Dennis Franklin

[WolfieParticipant @wolfie]

Eventually mainly to put my mind at rest I took it down to Arc Euro and had them do their checks on it. Turned out it was badly set up but not too much else wrong with it so I now have peace of mind and can get on with my grinding rest.

I have to commend Arc Euro by the way, a very efficient set up, knowledgable staff and a quite decent mug of tea. Much recommended.

[Nathan SharpeParticipant @nathansharpe19746]

Hello again,

Do any of you know wether the parting tool blades sold by RDG/Chronos/Arceurotrade etc are bevel ground or parallel ground?

I,ve only ever used genuine Eclipse blades but may have to consider imports as far as my finances (SWMBO) are concerned>

Nathan.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Welding cracked corners works well but you need to be in practice and have a steady hand. I found a cheapy mini diamond file set (freebee with an order from ArcEurotrade) very useful for cleaning up. Especially inside the square. But the ones I fixed were very badly mullered. On one I had to cut the remains of a key hole side completely off and weld a replacement side on so getting weld inside was almost inevitable.

If stick welding a half decent inverter welder is a lot better than the old style buzz box for this sort of precise, low current, work as you can use rather lower settings and still get a clean weld. Flip side is the need to be much more positive when breaking the arc. My Fronius brand magic box will stretch the arc to 6 inches or more, even on quite low currents, if you are not decisive enough on the break. Allegedly the industrial rated inverters are much better performers than the low end DIY breed. Before using mine a practised welder friend claimed inverter welders were grossly overrated and no better then a basic buzz box. I had to be quite firm when ensuring that the welder stayed at home in my workshop!

Clive

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Hi yes the Arc attachment looks good but you should not need for 2.5mm drills unless you machine is VERY unsensitive! I have drilled lots of 0.015" holes in the past on a jig borer and for this made a sensitive feed but down to 1/32 [.0315"] it was not necessary to use this.

As peter says ally can be difficult if it is the soft type alloy most others drill easily and parrafin is a good lube. Your speed is way to low.

Buy good quality drills , Dormer, Hertel, or similar high quality European made drills, yes they are expensive but cheaper in the long run because they work! try Rotagrip, J&L now MSC supplies or your local engineering supply house

good luck. John

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Sorry SX2 means nothing to me is a lathe or mill or drill ? Either way, if your drills are less than 2.5mm then,in my experience, I think you need to "feel" the pressure you are putting on the drill – try a sensitive drilling attachment – and run the machine fast, withdraw frequently to clear the chips. Oh yes and buy a stock of small drills!

Our friends at ARC have a neat sensitive attachment

Regards

Norman

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Look big and clumsy to me. i have one of these http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Hand-Tools from Arc Euro, works fairly well but you still need a brush or vac to clean up.

John

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

What about modifying this collet chuck?

Martin.

[RJWParticipant @rjw]

David and Andy, Thanks for the comments and very informative link,

The one problem I'd have making a chuck body, is that I don't have access to anything to cut the thread for the cap nut, or a suitable die which I think would cost a fortune, especially for a 'one off' job,

What I was really after initially was something along these lines to fit onto a suitable faceplate:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Lathe-Collet-Chucks

Unfortunately ER20 doesn't exist in this type of chuck, hence my ponderings about modding an ER20 chuck with a suitable shank size, although achieving the concentricity you mentioned was something nibbling away at the back of my head!.

I'll cast around for a die anyway and take things from there,

Thanks again,

John.

[AndyfParticipant @andyf]

John,

As David says, making your own ER chuck might not be too taxing. Here's a how-to for an ER25 version to screw on a Myford nose. As you will see, it includes a false start. Obviously, you would need to adjust the dimensions to suit M12x1 and ER20. The dimensions and taper angle (16 degrees included) can be found if you go to Collets > ER Collets and Collet Chucks on Arc Euro Trade's website.

Andy

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Should not be a problem, the oil guns in general lubricate the operator more than the lathe ! The latest one offered is much better but still not perfect but there are a cuple of posts for mods to same.

Try Arc Euro see advert on this site.

Just looked—- search for "myford oil" on this forum and a mod comes up

Edited By JohnF on 17/08/2012 22:17:57

[Will RobertsonParticipant @willrobertson16447]

Hi Clive,

Good to hear that the bees are doing well with the better weather.

We have wonderful creatures in France and Switzerland that oscillate their wings like a bees but look more like a giant moth. They don't land on flowers but hover in front of them to suck the nectar out – like a miniature humming bird. Probably very different from bees in their lifecycle but amazingly beautiful so I thought they merited a mention. Wish they lived in Scotland.

I hate paperwork so I'll try to get enough stock that I don't have to order again soon. I'm also expecting to have to make two or three attempts at many of the components (more for some) as I refine design and technique. Then there's the next engine to think about…

The diamond stones will go on my first order to Arc Eurotrade

One odd question came into my mind. How close should the piston come to the end of the cylinder? Trying to work it out from first principles I reckoned that the piston should come as close as possible to the ends of the cylinder but many designs seem to leave a fairly large clearance.

How should I work out the sise of flywheel to use? I vaguely remember the calculus to work out the moment of inertia of a a flywheel but I've no idea how to relate this to a steam engine so I thought I'd guess the sise of flywheel based on roughly the the relative sises of flywheels and cylinders used in horizontal mill engines.

Will

[AndyfParticipant @andyf]

Hi Leanne,

You may get some help from Arc Euro Trade's guide here: LINK

In particular, look at picture 62. The problem is how to turn down the shoulders on the internal spacers when your headstock is in pieces.

Andy

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

Will, Arc Eurotrade do diamond stones, a set of 4 at £12.60 . these are what I use. They are on a plastic handle and weigh nothing, so post will be cheap.

I use both types of grinding wheel, it all depends where I am at the time I need to sharpen tools as I work in two different places.

materiel, I would ask for S/steel in 304 grade for the spool and a bit of bronze for the piston if its used in a Cast iron cylinder. If its a Bronze cylinder then a bit of S/steel will do. As long as they are different no problem. You only need small quantities, unless you want to hold stock for other jobs. Remember to order enough to hold in the lathe so that you can get the job out of it !

Aluminium bronze is much harder than ordinary bronze so avoid it. Leaded bronze is good.

The bees were flying well today and I have another sale for a Nucleus as the chaps hives have all lost their Queens. I may visit to have a look myself to make sure. This chap is always in the hives and I think it upsets the bees.

I may take some honey next week, i hope the weather holds out, it was 23C at 3pm today.

Clive

[PeteParticipant @pete41194]

Posted by blowlamp on 04/08/2012 00:45:47:

Anyone got one of these from Arceurotrade? **LINK**

Martin.

Martin,

Again my points are from a North American perspective. I spent a lot of time and did a lot of research before I spent the extra and bought the original Blake design. I've read numerous complaints about the item you show from North Amerian dealers. Again most people will post complaints far sooner than the ones will who are satisfied. I wish I could be more positive. Some have reported excellent results, others………………? To be fair I've also read the very rare complaint about the Blake units. Those did suprise me. Mine is well within it's readings and I wouldn't hesitate to depend on what my results are, and I'm more than happy with mine.

One thing to remember, due to their design, they aren't a true measurement system, just like a DTI it isn't for accurate distances in comparision to a standard analog or digital indicator. Their designed to center I.D. and O.D. parts. Your looking for a null or zero deflection on the needle. They do work very well if their accurate. If you do have a good dependable DTI, it's easy enough to test them. If it did turn out to be inaccurate? It would take a highly skilled home machinist with at least a tool post grinder.

Right now I don't have the tooling or real knowledge to do those improvements if they were needed.

Pete

[Anonymous]

Posted by blowlamp on 04/08/2012 00:45:47:

Anyone got one of these from Arceurotrade? **LINK**

No, but I have recently bought the equivalent from Haimer:

In due course, once I've tried it out, I'll report in.

Regards,

Andrew

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

Anyone got one of these from Arceurotrade? **LINK**

Martin.

[_Paul_Participant @_paul_]

Posted by John Stevenson on 18/07/2012 19:50:41:

Here's one £19.50 **LINK**

How much!

Seriously though why not turn an MT2 taper on a bit of 1" bar and make your own arbour?

Paul

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

well if nobody can be bothered to read the link to a local stockist here's a bloody picture.

[EtheAv8rParticipant @etheav8r]

I am now beginning to be actually using (and slowly learning a little bit by bit) my lathe and mills in my nice new workshop and am having fun as well as frustration and I am thoroughly enjoying it.

I had not tried any fly cutting (not done a lot of any cutting really) over my past 6 months of beginners practice, but as it looked a useful technique I got myself a low cost R8 fly-cutting tool holdr and some 5/16 HSS from those awfully nice people at Arc Euro, and armed with a printout of the guide to grinding a suitable tool by Bogstandard I managed to produce a cutter and had a test run on a bit of scrap on the manual Super X3 mill taking very light cuts. I was delighted with the results. I then tried on the KX3 – big advantage being I can set it up to make multiple passes to get down to the required total depth, set it off to compete the task and no laborious handle turning and counting. I can then get on with something else manually whilst it runs. Yes I can do this with conventional milling cutters too, and have been practicing this up till now, but the number of passes of a much smaller size cutter, even with a deeper cut per pass, have resulted in runs to surface a block taking well over an hour or even two. The bigger sweep of a flycutter seems to make for speedier material removal, even with lighter cut per pass, and the finish is really good.

I am so delighted with these results that this weekend I start on my first ‘real’ project – the Firefly 46 glow motor. Or rather two as I plan to make a pair. I just hope this is not too ambitious for a first project! First task will be to fly-cut the crankcases to size +.5mm ready for the drilling/boring. Jason's build blog will be my bible (stand by for dumb 'how do I' questions…)

What should be the average and max depth of cut I should work with for a fly-cutter?

I am running at 600 – 650 RPM and there is a very gentle vibration due to the imbalance – is it worth buying a more expensive flycutter tool holder that is better ballanced, and if so what can you experienced chaps recommend?