What Did You Do Today 2020

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

John Hinckley this is how i balanced the wheel for my Christen drill grinder an impromptu method but it worked well providing you make sure the thin parallels are level to mother earth. Regarding the finish — have you checked the spindle bearings ? Had a similar problem and it was the bearing causing the problem

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

JohnF

I haven't checked the spindle bearings as the machine is a brand new (well a few months old) one from Warco. It is, however, called a "simple surface grinder" Whether the "simple" bit applies to the grinder or the surface is unclear! Possibly the operator?

I have a couple of thin parallels – actually two halves of a cheap, redundant digital caliper as a result of reading a readers tip in MEW a couple of issues ago – so I might try those as well.

JohnH

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Posted by John Hinkley 31/05/2020 08:03:57

Thanks for that. It's pretty much confirmed the direction I'm going on this one. Tried the knife
edge wheels described in my post with the CAD screenshot. That didn't work
either, I'm going to try a pair of 6mmØ silver steel rods fixed to the top of the fixture
and add three levelling screws for good measure. Failing that, I'm resigned to
ordering some new material for the "scrap bin",

Hi John

I think for the roller type of balancing cradles to work effectively the rollers need to be
large ,if you look in the lathe's web site at the Jones and Shipman page the balancing
cradle shown has rollers nearly 6 inch in diameter ,it all starts to get a bit big for hobby use.

Some useful articles have appeared in MEW long in the past .
An article Keith Johnson in MEW 180, Balancing grinding wheels , although written for balancing
wheels for the Quorn grinder the balancing cradle that he has designed would be useful
for balancing wheels.Uses round bars for the cradle.

Also worth reading
An article written by Michel Christiaens in MEW 139 Grinding wheel selection ,safety and
dressing.

Very little ever seems to appear in Mew in connection with grinding in general and
grinding machines,i think it is a much neglected aspect of this hobby.

Having said that Alan Jackson's small surface grinding machine made from a Dore Westbury milling machine has made a refreshing change.

John

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

John Pace,

Thanks for the further links. I'll have a look at those later. I had hoped that the device would be compact and bijou, so 6inch wheels don't really fit in with that philosophy.

I think we ought to wrap up this thread diversion now, otherwise the moderators will be on our backs. Thanks to all for your various inputs.

John

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

Nice Mill you have there JohnF…

Joe

[BufferParticipant @buffer]

Inspired by the excellent casting articles by Luker and Gerald Martyn today I cast the front smokebox ring for my Black5. And I'm still buzzin. Thanks guys.

[Henry BrownParticipant @henrybrown95529]

I dropped on a Newall boring and facing head recently, it came with a steel case that probably wasn't originally with it. It had some woodwook inside but it didn't fit very well so I've added more and re-awoke my inner feminine side to fit a nice green baize lining, I just need to remember how the head works now as I haven't used one since I was in my teens as an apprentice on the jig borers…

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Posted by Henry Brown on 31/05/2020 21:57:09:

I dropped on a Newall boring and facing head recently, it came with a steel case that probably wasn't originally with it. It had some woodwook inside but it didn't fit very well so I've added more and re-awoke my inner feminine side to fit a nice green baize lining, I just need to remember how the head works now as I haven't used one since I was in my teens as an apprentice on the jig borers…

Looks the same at the one I use on Newal 2436 jig borer they were made by OMT [Optical Measuring Tools] part of the Newal group. The one i used was unfortunately not the best tool in the shop, eventually went over to Wohlhaupta and Kaiser boring heads however we were looking for tenths not thous !

John

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Posted by Joseph Noci 1 on 31/05/2020 11:37:07:

Nice Mill you have there JohnF…

Joe

Thanks Joe I bought it new in 1984 always been very please with it and its a very versatile machine — great for small parts but surprising what its capable of as well.

John

[martin perman 1Participant @martinperman1]

I have started to make a foot operated sprung latch to keep our back door open during this warm session, its now on hold as I dont have any M5 countersunk screws so onto my second project and I'm making an adjustable traverse axis stop with a half inch micrometer barrel for fine adjustment on my lathe but that also came to a stop as I dont have any M5 countersunks for that either, I will ring around tomorrow to see what I can get.

Martin P

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Martin Perman –

Re Renault "cabin Filter" (Renault's name for it).

Thank you very much for the tip. I spent some time today exploring further.

'

The glove-box on my version of the Kangoo cannot be removed. It is integral with the single plastic dashboard moulding which spans the full width of the car, is installed with hidden fastenings, and holds an air-bag, the heater vents and controls and all sorts of other equipment. Removing that would be a major operation for a properly-equipped, professional garage; not an owner's roadside maintenance task.

There is a removable panel in the end of the dashboard moulding, facing the passenger door, but it hides only cables. There is no equivalent in the off-side end.

What few parts of the heating system are visible by grovelling on the floor are not identifiable; and none match what the videos suggest is a sizeable rectangular box.

'

SO…. This filter is either not inside the car anyway; or is hidden and inaccessible.

'

Under the bonnet? (Apparently, the Megan's cabin filter is accessibly in the scuttle. Clearly a mistake.) No. Nowhere under the bonnet; at least certainly not obviously so. I would expect it to be close to the blower and heater – wherever they may be. They are totally hidden and totally inaccessible.

The only two readily-removable panels that might hide this blasted filter, cover only cable-looms.

The heater water-hoses are clearly visible between the engine and bulkhead. Virtually nothing of the heating & ventilating system is visible or accessible between there and its controls and outlets

I noticed even replacing the engine air-filter might take all day, assuming you can work out how!

'

Nothing useful on-line. Just poorly-made videos about different versions of the car, and web-sites demanding "accounts", expensive open-ended subscriptions, etc. I found a free pdf manual but it covers only the engines.

My car was built in 2006, and surprisingly it still has its original Owner's Handbook and official service book. The Handbook tells you to change the cabin filter annually, but not how to find it, nor which vehicle editions carry one. The few pages completed in the service log suggest this filter (if it exists) has never been changed. I am not surprised.

I now doubt the model I own has such a filter. So why is the demister so inefficient, and why did the last MoT document "advise" it needed changing? I had booked a service too, so why had the garage not changed it?

Just one possibility remains… that the filter does exist but as a separate unit, under the bonnet, hard to identify without pictures, and nowhere logical.

' ' '

Gave up, did some gardening and finished my steam-wagon's boiler mounting to the extent I could assemble everything so far. I can now determine how to make and fit the boiler's retaining-clips, improve the smokebox mountings and think about the grate, ashpan, cladding and plumbing.

Hopefully without "designing" inaccessibility traps beloved of the professional car manufacturer.

[Grindstone CowboyParticipant @grindstonecowboy]

These may be the videos you've already found, but…

Renault Kangoo ZE filter replacement here

Kangoo II here although this is a LHD model and the position looks to be the same as in the first video, so a lot easier on RHD.

Hope this might help.

Rob

[martin perman 1Participant @martinperman1]

Nigel this **LINK** is for a 2007 Kangoo, hope it helps.

Martin P

Edited By martin perman on 01/06/2020 08:49:36

[Henry BrownParticipant @henrybrown95529]

Posted by JohnF on 31/05/2020 22:16:10

Looks the same at the one I use on Newal 2436 jig borer they were made by OMT [Optical Measuring Tools] part of the Newal group. The one i used was unfortunately not the best tool in the shop, eventually went over to Wohlhaupta and Kaiser boring heads however we were looking for tenths not thous !

John

Hi John. Interesting, this one is made by CWC Lacey, Maidenhead, England. It seems in very good condition and now I have a 7/8 R8 sleeve for it I can give it a try. If I can't get on with it I can move it on as it didn't hurt the wallet!

As you say, may not be much good for tenths, and I certainly don't need that accuracy, but just having the facing facility will be handy.

Cheers, Henry.

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

Nigel, I know just how frustrated you are with your pollen filter, I previously owned a Renault Modus, to change a headlight bulb you had to remove the whole front panel of the bodywork, labour charge by a Renault garage was in excess of £100. All I can say is French cars have always been “quirky”, moved on from Renault to Honda’s, so much more logical and so far with three Hondas nothing has required attention outside of the normal services.
Dave W

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Thank you Grindstone Cowboy.

Unfortunately, those videos still show quite different Kangoos, with far more removable panels, so better accessibility. It still seems difficult and complicated to reach a filter that is itself simple to service.

In mine the entire dashboard, glovebox, air-bag compartment, consoles etc. form a one-piece moulding you can't remove. Anything behind it, is inaccessible.

If the filter is under the bonnet, it is very well hidden or disguised. I vaguely recollect an anonymous, discreet box in a corner somewhere near the engine, about the right size and shape. I'll see if that might be it.

Otherwise either the car has no such filter or servicing it is possible only in a fully-equipped garage. Replacing the engine air filter casing doesn't look much easier.

I reckon modern car designers have a priority list: 1 style and luxury, 2 performance, 3 efficiency, … (n) annual servicing to the specifications they set, last. Do these holders of 'ologies' in fashion, stress-analysis and SolidWorks, know which end of a spanner to hold?

'

I think of the tasks I performed years ago on three Bedford CA vans. Turning bushes for badly worn accelerator links. Replacing worn king-pin bushes on the wishbone suspension, using a second jack to compress the spring against the van's weight. (Yes, with substantial timbers under the raised vehicle!) Overhauling cylinder-heads. Replacing a three-speed gearbox, with a four speed box (rear-wheel drive). All at the roadside outside the house, as I have to work now. Though lengthy, dirty and sometimes heavy tasks, these were technically relatively easy and most parts were accessible. Then I tried replacing an air filter on a 2006 Renault Kangoo!

.

I recall an electronics designer recounting he once dragged the complacent detail-designers against their snooty will, to a customer's soggy, muddy work-site one dark wet Winter evening.

"Right!" he told me he said to them, "These are the conditions they have to use this equipment in; bad weather, poor light, cold hands, thick gloves.. I want it designed to suit them, not a show-laboratory!"

They did. The customer was delighted to find a supplier who actually thought of the users!

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

I've just sent a message to Renault UK, asking two simple questions:

– Does my edition of the Kangoo have this Cabin Filter?

– If so, where, please, and is it something I can replace myself?

Actually being able to open their web-site was a pain in itself as I had to up-date my Goggle / Firefox / Mozilla browser (who owns which there?). take care to turn off all the tracking software to at least limit the so-called "personalized [sic] advertisements".

I await their reply with interest, and would not be surprised if the company refuses to answer but Issues A Statement along the lines of "Renault advise consulting one of our Approved Dealers for all servicing".

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

My 4 axis rotary table 2 morse taper i have never been happy with ever
since i made it a long time ago it runs true enough close to the nose
but was obviously off further in as the run out increased away from
the nose.As i have had the table apart for some modifications to adjust
the step count i have taken the opportunity to regrind the morse taper.

Seen here in the photo using the cylindrical grinder the rotary table is
mounted on the magnetic chuck and set over to the required angle.At the
back of the table there is a thread to push out the morse taper arbor
and this provided a fixing for a temporary pulley to drive .The grinding
work head provides the drive via a heat joined belt.
The first attempt was not too successful as the grinding spindle was
too long and thin so i made a new thicker spindle tapered like a
morse taper and set the grinding head at an angle so the spindle
entered with some clearance.

As with any grinding job the setting up can take quite a long time in
comparison to the actual grinding.
The end result shows zero runout at the nose and about 2 tenths
at the end of the test bar about 5 1/2 inches out ,happy with that.

Reading up on the current practice on grinding spindle arbors they
seem to be made these days from tungsten carbide ,they seem to
be listed as POA which i guess means they are not cheap.
It's a different world out there ,doubt it much it would fit anyway
with my home made kit.

Still have another one to do later in the week .

John

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

Up to my armpits in work today – shielding but still working online every weekday.

However found time to fit the backplate and make and fit some studs to the 100mm 4 jaw self centreing chuck that arrived yesterday for the SC3. Now waiting for the Loctite to go off and doing some more work type work. I'll try the chuck out this evening.

Why the 4 jaw SC?

I have not yet needed to go beyond the capacity of the standard 80mm chuck for holding round stuff, but the small hole through the middle has been annoying me – hence the larger chuck. I really don't know why this is so because the previous Drummond Roundbed has no hole through the spindle at all!

Anyway decided on the 4 jaw self centring as hex larger than 15mm in long lengths is unlikely to be an issue whilst round might and the ability to hold square easily (only as accurately as any sc chuck, I know) could be useful.

I'm probaby wrong in my assumptions!

[MeunierParticipant @meunier]

Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 01/06/2020 10:05:26:

snip/ I reckon modern car designers have a priority list: 1 style and luxury, 2 performance, 3 efficiency, … (n) annual servicing to the specifications they set, last. /snip

Nigel, your nbr 3 should move to nbr 1. All motor mfrs have to meet an EU economy/CO2 target, averaged across the whole range of vehicles they make. If they don't meet that target, they have to pay a financial penalty levied on every vehicle they produce. Still leaves user-friendliness in last place.
DaveD

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

Posted by John Pace on 01/06/2020 18:47:49:

.

Seen here in the photo using the cylindrical grinder the rotary table is
mounted on the magnetic chuck and set over to the required angle.At the
back of the table there is a thread to push out the morse taper arbor
and this provided a fixing for a temporary pulley to drive .The grinding
work head provides the drive via a heat joined belt.

John, could you explain your setup in more detail please? Interested as to how that setup works.

How did you set over the job on the magnetic chuck to the MT angle, bearing in mind the relationship to the sliding axis? How DOES the sliding axis work? Does the mag-chuck slide, or the grinding head, ie, what moves to make the abrasive wheel move in and out of the job? Can't see from the photo – is that a commercial grinder or a shop built one ( the whole machine, not just the grinding head) Maybe some more photos of the whole thing from different angles.

Looks interesting!

Joe

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Posted by Joseph Noci 1 03/06/2020 07:06:50

John, could you explain your setup in more detail please? Interested as to how that setup works.

How did you set over the job on the magnetic chuck to the MT angle, bearing in mind the relationship
to the sliding axis? How DOES the sliding axis work? Does the mag-chuck slide, or the grinding
head, ie, what moves to make the abrasive wheel move in and out of the job? Can't see from the
photo – is that a commercial grinder or a shop built one ( the whole machine, not just the grinding head)
Maybe some more photos of the whole thing from different angles.

Looks interesting!

Hi Joe

It is easier to explain if you view the 1st photo ,the machine is a home
built fabricated machine and initially was styled using the basic dimensions
of a Myford MG 12 grinder but at about 2/3ds size.From this the table
moves left/right and the grinding head fore and aft just the same as a normal
cylindrical grinder.The protruding shaft housing just above and behind the
tail stock is the shaft used for surface grinding,for this the the head and
tail stocks are removed along with the swiveling sub table the head swivels
round 90 deg and then the machine can be used as a surface grinder
as seen in the 2nd photo.In front of the table there are 2 micrometer
adjustments for the stop bar,the machine has a 2 axis dro the table has a
5 um scale the crossfeed a 1um scale, to set the angle for the morse taper
a true running test bar was mounted on the nose of the rotary table and the
table traverse set to 5.125 inch at this length a difference of .128 inch is
correct for a 2 morse taper half angle.Setting the rotary table on the mag
chuck and using a dti and the dro to check and set this measurement.
As the grinding head height can be set anywhere is is a simple matter
to align using centres in the spindle and the work.

Continued next post

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Continued
The internal grinding spindle assembly mounts to the surface grinding
spindle housing with 4 bolts and a clamp and is driven from the spindle.
The 3rd photo here shows the workhead at the far end of the table here
also having the 2 morse taper being ground in situ.The internal grinding
spindle swings up as you can see by the shape of the mounting bracket.
For sizes above 10mm i use bore gauges as these are relatively long
and would foul a fixed spindle ,the mechanism has a quick release and
uses spring pressure to hold providing a constant force for a repeatable
repositioning. The work head mounts on a column similar to a Quorn
grinding machine but much larger and is made in such a way that the relative
centerline relative to the table has eight different positions.As the head can
swing 360 deg and can point up of down by about 30 deg with
work mounted it is possible to get an out of bounds setup ,to some extent
having this arrangement makes this less likely.
Initially i used water based coolant but got fed up fairly quickly about the mess
with this and having to take the parts off the table to clean them,leaving the machine
after use resulted in little black spots after about a day ,rust ! ,that all had to go.
I use neat grinding oil now excelcut 433 is about a 10 grade oil and runs away
as fast as paraffin ,no rust problems no tramp oil no wheel loading and much
more pleasant to use.
Keeping it clean (the oil) with only a 15 litre tank presented a whole new load
of problems,eventually solved by controlling the way the oil runs off the
machine ,through a fine mesh filter to collect the large debris ,slowing the
passage of the oil down through a magnet array ,then through a centrifuge
of about 5000g finally into 2 tanks the lower one having a pumped filter
system with throw away filters.

The basic specification of the machine
Surface grinding
14 X 5 inches ( maximum traverse length 18 inches)
Maximum height 5 inch grinding wheel to table 9.500 inches.

Cylindrical grinding
14 inch between centres
Maximum diameter between centres 6.500 inches, the swiveling sub table allows
around 7 deg taper in either direction .
Grinding wheel sizes 4 inch to 8 inch dia 1/4 to 3/4 inch wide variable speed
spindle from around 2,000 to 4,700 rpm , internal spindle to 31,000 rpm.
It's been an interesting project that will probably never be finished in as
much as the list of things that i need to complete gets shorter but the
list of thing that i would like to make grows ever longer .
All about time i suppose.

John

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 01/06/2020 14:12:29:

I've just sent a message to Renault UK, asking two simple questions:

– Does my edition of the Kangoo have this Cabin Filter?

– If so, where, please, and is it something I can replace myself?

[…]

I await their reply with interest, and would not be surprised if the company refuses to answer but Issues A Statement along the lines of "Renault advise consulting one of our Approved Dealers for all servicing".

.

For what it’s worth [probably not much] : various Kangoo filters are listed here

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/spare-parts/renault/air-filter/kangoo-kc0-1.html

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/spares-search.html?keyword=kangoo+cabin+filter

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 03/06/2020 12:40:29

[Anthony KnightsParticipant @anthonyknights16741]

Today I put the SD card from my camera into the computer card reader to upload some photos, to be met with a "this drive needs formatting" message. After a short period of panic, I did some on-line research and downloaded a Linux application called TestDisk. This successfuly recovered the files from the card, some several times and also ones I had deleted. I have now edited the photos into appropriate folders and formatted the card for re-use.

The photo I wanted was the one showing my now completed knurling tool, which is below.

[Author]

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