Warco WM16 mill and end-mill chuck

[richard 2Participant @richard2]

I have a Warco WM16 mill which I am well satisfied with.

It has a MT2 spindle and I would l like to buy a suitable chuck for screwed shank end mills.

I have the Warco but this does not seem to take some of the larger end-mills

that are sitting in a drawer; particularly 3/4" and 18mm.

Especially as I am waiting to machine the block of Meehanite to make the rear

tool post for my S7B as described by Roger Vane.

I am currently making and fitting the adaptors he described to mount a diamond disc and new too-rest to a bench grinder.

I wish there were more hours in the day!

Many thanks, everyone.

Richard.

Would someone advise me. please?

[richard 2Participant @richard2]

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

These are designed to fit Pozilok or Autolock chucks which are rather expensive and eat headroom! Is it really worth buying an extra chuck just for a couple of sizes? May be easier to buy or make some MT2 arbors, bore them out to fit a single size shank, and hold with a grub screw – if necessary grind a flat on the shank for it to bear on. Or even loctite in place, remove with heat when blunt. Or bore out and thread.

IIRC, when I had an MT2 Pozilok chuck, the biggest shank it would hold was 1/2" anyway.

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

In whick case buy a MT2 / ER32 chuck which will hold every size you need up to 20mm, screwed shank, plain shank, imperial or metric

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

+ 1 …In which case buy a MT2 / ER32 chuck which will hold every size you need up to 20mm, screwed shank, plain shank, imperial or metric…

I have the ER25 chuck set, should have gone for the ER32 myself, hindsight is always perfect innit!

George.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

I will give another vote for ER 32. I use it to hold milling cutters in the milling machine spindle and I have made an ER 32 chuck for my small lathe that I mainly use to hold round stock.

Thor

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

I don't have the manual to hand, but I believe the maximum recommended endmill size for the WM-16 is 16mm (perhaps that's where the 16 comes from?). Using too big an endmill in this machine can cause one of the glass fuses to blow in the control panel.You may want to get some replacement fuses just in case.

Ed.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Agree with JS. I decided to buy ER32. 20mm collets and down are large enough for my machine. (Taking JS's advice too – I may eventually get a ER 20, or smaller (for where a smaller holder would be better 'cos the Clarkson may not be grippy enough for non-theaded cutters (and possible workpieces on accasion) when I use up my current stock of miscellaneous cutters). I think the Clarkson will take larger than 1/2", though?

 

 

The specs on some chinese collets is good enough for me (I won't buy unspecced items), so I will likely get extra charges at point of delivery – at least for the larger set – but still a fair bit cheaper than typical examples from the UK middlemen, especially those that don't give the specs!

 

Edited to add that the '16' presumably would not in

clude milling plastics, wood or other soft materials.  Cast iron can be a softer than some steels, so I only take these numbers as an 'indication', and use some common sense.  After all, many use flycutters of rather larger diameter…

Edited By not done it yet on 13/02/2017 18:33:02

[Enough!Participant @enough]

Posted by Ed Duffner on 13/02/2017 18:07:09:

I don't have the manual to hand, but I believe the maximum recommended endmill size for the WM-16 is 16mm (perhaps that's where the 16 comes from?). Using too big an endmill in this machine can cause one of the glass fuses to blow in the control panel.You may want to get some replacement fuses just in case.

 

My Busy-Bee CT-129 WM-16 equivalent says max 16mm end mill but I often use a 3/4" on the lower speed without any problem – although I limit the cut depth. I also use the 20mm collet for an electronic edge-finder – the kind with the spring-loaded ball that doesn't object if you crash it into something (unlike the smaller EEFs without the ball).

This machine was imported to Canada by Busy-Bee without it having any CSA/UL approvals so they cleared it through Ontario Hydro the local electrical authority instead. They (OH) insisted that Busy-Bee fitted a slightly lower amperage fuse than the one supplied by the manufacturer. I found it very touchy and went through any number of fuses. I was hesitant to fit a heftier fuse though so I made up an outlet box to supply the machine via a resettable circuit breaker (of the lower fuse rating) and restored the manufacturer's higher rating fuse to the machine. At least I don't have to keep digging up fuses.

Funny thing though. Over the years since I bought this (2008 I think) the frequency of tripping the breaker has dropped off (I've never needed to replace the fuse since I fitted the breaker). Either the machine has improved or my technique has. At least until I recently installed a belt-drive upgrade. It's become a bit more touchy again since then.

Edited By Bandersnatch on 14/02/2017 01:15:17

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