Just noticed this — in case you want to do any Web searching, the correct name for this unit is 'Amolco'. There's a page on the Lathes UK devoted to it — see here:
Amolco
I've got one with a Myford ML10-type base. I bought it new but as far as I recall, it didn't come with any instructions. They're hardly needed — fitting and operation is pretty straightforward. The site linked above shows (I think) the type suited to the ML7 family. To fit it:
(a) Remove the lathe tailstock.
(b) Place, say, the first half inch of the unit on the end of the bed so that the 'tongue' on the base's underside fits between the bed's shears.
(c) Push the unit forward (ensuring that the keep plates slide cross-wise underneath the shears) until the unit base is fully supported on the bed.
(d) Tighten the 2 toggle screws, one on the base end and the other on top of the column.
The head is locked/unlocked from the column by the large capscrew in the recess next to the machine plate. The latter shows the pulley belt settings for the various speeds. The only 'control' is the graduated handwheel aligned with the column.
The Amolco nose fitting is the same as the Myford spindle nose, 1-1/8 thread and MT2 bore. As regards collets you can:
1. Use the 'native' kind i.e. Morse Taper 2 collets. These are available in sets of 4 or 6 quite cheaply to suit whatever endmill shank type standard you settle on — metric or imperial. Their virtue is that they plug straight into the spindle and thus preserve headroom. They need to be locked into the spindle by a nose nut. If the latter wasn't supplied with your Amolco you can get one from Myford/RDG here:
Collet Nose Piece – Part No 1438
2. Some other collet system, for instance one of the ER ranges. In this case you'll need a collet chuck to match and this will need an MT2 shank. Also, you'll need a drawbar to lock the chuck into the spindle taper. MT2 chuck shanks can be had with M10 screw fittings in the end. So, you could use a simple piece of M10 studding + nut and washer as a drawbar. The spindle through-bore is 10.3mm so M10 studding should be OK. Be aware, though, if you go for a separate endmill chuck (as opposed to using MT2 collets) you lose 1.5" to 2" of headroom. Note also that you can attach other devices e.g. flycutters and boring heads, that have MT2 shanks to the Amolco (always with a drawbar, though!).
Funny old world, I though these machines were in the land that time forgot! Now, there seem to be queries popping up all over the Web about them.
Joe
Edited By joegib on 12/11/2012 18:00:46