Search Results for 'arc euro'

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Try Arceuro

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

From memory (mmm, not as good as it once was!) when the first Myford ML7 came out in 1946 or so, it cost 36 Pounds, compared with the M-Type's 42 Pounds.

According to the Bank of England's inflation calculator, that is equivalent to today's Pounds of 1433 Pounds for the cheap-azz Myford and 1672 Pounds for the venerable M-type.

A comparable lathe today costs just almost that much. The Seig SC4 at ArcEuroTrade is a similar size and sells for 1399 Pounds including VAT. I think the mini-lathe is not a fair comparison because it is much smaller and can't do the same range of jobs as a Myford/Drummond with their gap-bed, 10" diameter faceplate and 24" or so between centres.

However, I've an idea that in 1946 you then had to pony up extra for the luxury of an electric motor, four jaw chuck, traveling and fixed steadies and a tailstock centre, all of which seem to come standard on today's budget hobby lathes.

So the prices are somewhere in the ballpark of the same, maybe a bit more expensive for the old Brit iron accessories.

Quality? Hmm. Vexed question. The M-type was a very good quality lathe. Mine is still going strong today and very accurately, 80 years later. Change gears are DP14 and solid as anything, as are all the castings etc.  The ML7 Myford I have is not as sturdily built but has less chatter due to better design, larger spindle and bearings. So still a good quality machine and still (after a rebuild) very accurate.

I don't have enough Chinese lathe ownership experience to really be able to compare. But ones I have worked on, or used, or looked at in friends' workshops etc don't seem to have quite the same quality in either finish, "feel"  or accuracy or robustness. My personal preference (obviously) is for the old Brit iron, if in good condition. But plenty of others are perfectly happy with their modern Chinese hobby lathes. Just ask Neil about his mini-lathe and now his SC4.

Edited By Hopper on 15/08/2018 11:05:52

Edited By Hopper on 15/08/2018 11:14:55

[Mark Gould 1Participant @markgould1]

Good to hear, I have ordered quite a bit of stuff from Arc Euro and have been very satisified with everything,

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

It may be worth trying this new search facility: **LINK**

https://euipo.europa.eu/eSearch/

I would have tried it myself, but can't do the required 'drag & drop' on the iPad

MichaelG.

.

See also: **LINK**

TrademarkVision uses image recognition to search for similar trademarks

…….

Edit: Try inserting this, or preferably an enhanced version

 

 

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 12/08/2018 19:27:07

[NigeParticipant @nige81730]

I don't own any carbide cutters, the few cutters I do own are mostly the non coated HSS (black) ones from Arceurotrade. Today I had cause to cut 6mm wide slots in some 12mm bright mild stee. I am quite conservative with how much depth I wind on, mostly because I don't have a large stock of spare cutters and don't want to be stopped by ruining a cutter half way through a job. Today howeve I decided to live dangerously. Instead of the usual 0.5mm DOC I have been using I wound on 1mm and then 2mm cuts. This was with a 3 flute cutter at about 1100 rpm and it didn't seem to mind a bit. I did try a cut the full depth, 12mm, of the slot but I was getting steel powder instead of chips and it seemed obvious by the noise, vibration and heat that it was too much for the SX2.7 and I stopped that particular experiment.

[IgnatzParticipant @ignatz]

So I'm left with a few choices.

Tighten up the main journal a wee bit and try to shim the bed a bit. Couldn't hurt and might help. At that point I would just continue to use the lathe as it is until a better option (new or used) presents itself.

Totally agree that a replaceable bedplate would have been just the ticket for the ML10, most especially given the fairly straightforward profile. But that is all in hindsight as Myford chose not to take that route. And, yes, one could elect to have that sort of thing done, but this demands access to larger machine tools which I do not have. Paying for same – let alone finding someone with the necessay expertise for such an adventure – would seem to be prohibitive.

Regrinding the bed is always possible. Pursuant to that I got in touch with Myford Solutions in Holland. The bare minimum would be to true up the bed way with a surface grinder, clean up the dovetails on a Bridgeport and similarly treat the carriage and the gib. The price for this is at least €500 and that is not even allowing for the cost of shipping the bed and carriage up and back (since I don't have a car) . If I went further and had the man do both the cross slide and tool post slide it would bring the cost up above €750. Pretty high considering that the feed screws and nuts would still be doubtful… and again, that is a hefty chunk of the cost of a new lathe.

I'm hoping to perhaps find someone in my own area (Gent, Belgium) to do the work, but we don't enjoy the same healthy engineering hobbyist community as up in the UK so my search may be both long and in vain.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by John Pace on 07/08/2018 22:24:59:

Hi Michael
Back in issue MEW 193 i wrote the article Gear hobbing in the mill,the system designed by Richard Bartlett (Compucut) …

Arc Euro used to sell the hobs but they are no longer available which is a shame as they were very good cutters at a reasonable price.Would be interested to know where you are getting these from.

.

That's another very helpful response, thank you John

I'm doing rather well on this thread !

My hob was just a one-off purchase from a German supplier on ebay … perhaps rather whimsical, given that I don't yet have a machine; but whilst I was browsing for ordinary MOD_0.8 or 32DP cutters, it cried 'Buy Me'

MichaelG.

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Hi Michael
Back in issue MEW 193 i wrote the article Gear hobbing in the mill,the system designed by Richard Bartlett (Compucut) is not at all similar to the published hobbing unit in Mew 108 as it remains in sync when the spindle is stopped .The article shows the constuction of the spindle ,the offset design keeps the table in close to the column up to the maximum size of gear that can be cut.I don't know if the unit is still available from Richard, [email protected]
The photo shows the the unit as supplied you just dial in the the tooth count.
Although you are only interested in making spur gears the unit as shown is only a little more work to be able to produce helical gears.The unit can be mounted at either end of the milling table making it easy to produce small left and right hand helical gears with high angles as seen in the photo's .
Arc Euro used to sell the hobs but they are no longer available which is a shame as they were very good cutters at a reasonable price.Would be interested to know where you are getting these from.
John

[Ian Skeldon 2Participant @ianskeldon2]

I recently had an issue in trying to turn a 14tpi thread. My lathe is metric and despite being told and seeing it advertised as capable of cutting both metric and imperial threads, it couldn't do that with the change gears supplied. Calling the supplier (Chester Hobby Lathes) to ask for help was left with a promise to get back to me with a solution, that was several weeks ago still not heard anything.

On the other hand, Ketan from Arc Eurotrade, an alternative engineering supplier, saw the thread and contacted me to say that his company could help. So yesterday, I called Arc Eurotrade, I ordered a 127 tooth metal change gear that will fit my lathe, including postage it came to less than £25, and it arrived today. Now that is an incredible level of service by any standard.

Ketan I wonder if you could source and sell a lathe of similar spec, size, weight and quality as an english lathe such as Harrison M300 or Colchester Bantam etc If so let me know, I will happily put my name down on the list of people wanting such a thing.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Steve Sherlock on 06/08/2018 20:52:39:

…

…

I shall definitely be investing in nut and bolts sets in every thread standard I can so I can keep on hand to test in future

…

Welcome to a hobby offering so many choices. The history of threads is fairly chaotic, which is why it's possible to bump into so many variants.

Metric fasteners are used in almost all new machines and they are easier and cheaper to source. The main exception is the USA, but even there metric threads are gradually taking over. Another exception is if your interest is in older British machines, restoring old cars or whatever. In that case BSW and BSF are your friends. US and British threads were unified in 1948, so there are at least three common variants of imperial. Another golden oldie is BA threads, which were widely used on instruments and electrical equipment.

I thought about this and, because I've no particular reason to go for an older thread, I decided to go metric. It makes life simpler! I own a box of metric nuts and bolts, metric studding, and taps, dies, and a lathe to match. I also own a small imperial capability, bought for special cases. Quite a few take the opposite line, preferring to work in Imperial, with some metric for special jobs. With a bit of cash, all combinations are possible. What suits best depends on what you do.

More good news, thread gauges are affordable. Well worth buying a few if mixed threads are a problem, for example this pair from ArcEuroTrade cover Whitworth, US and Metric for about £14.

Part of the 'fun' for beginners is discovering what's available and who sells it. I'd recommend browsing the likes of ArcEuroTrade, RDGTools, Noggin Metals and other advertisers on the forum to see what's on offer. Quite often, it's easy once you know what to look for, or how to ask the question. Also the more you explore, the more it makes sense.

Dave

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Good old ARC to the rescue again with these. For finer work the standard files work OK on aluminium when well chalked to stop them clogging and pinning.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

With the next issue of MEW about to hit the virtual door mats of those with a digital subscription here are the videos that show the SX2.7 from ARC being used for some basic cuts with a 4-flute cutter. I used a piece of EN3 steel for these rather than the 6062 aluminium used for the magazine photos, 10mm 4-flute cutter from a budget range as that may be more representative of what a beginner may buy. Cut dry for a clearer view buy would suggest a small amount of something like this to give a better finish and prolong the life of the cutter. If you click "Youtube " along the bottom it will show at a larger size or the icon bottom right for full screen.

Also not all the text was deleted from last months title so no marking out in part 6.

 

 

 

 

 

I hope Neil did not have to reach for the sick bag too much but using a tripod would have been a problem as I needed to show different parts of the machine, also cranking one handed with the camera in the other does not bode well for steady shots.

 

This is the finished steel test piece.

 

 

 

Edited By JasonB on 03/08/2018 07:53:55

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 01/08/2018 10:09:57:

Ian,

In the Arc Euro catalogue, there is mention of a 127T gear in the description of the SC4, for cutting Imperial threads..

Don't know if one would be obtainable as a spare. They do list some spares for the SC4 on their website.

.

If Ketan could be persuaded to keep this as a stock item … purist screw-cutters would happy

MichaelG.

.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/machineparts/Super-C4-Parts-Diagram-and-List-2014.pdf

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 01/08/2018 10:29:59

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Ian,

In the Arc Euro catalogue, there is mention of a 127T gear in the description of the SC4, for cutting Imperial threads..

Don't know if one would be obtainable as a spare. They do list some spares for the SC4 on their website.

If ordered specially, it might take six weeks or so to obtain from China

"Little Machine Shop" mention one as part of the complete set of change gears for the SC4, that they sell; ($169) but they are in USA..

The gears are stated to be 1 Mod, so will be 129mm diameter, and likely to have a 4mm keyway.

(If your gears are 1 Mod and have a 3mm keyway, the easy way is to cut another 3mm keyway, opposite the existing 4mm one).

If you could get one and mate this with the 120T, using the combination as an idler would allow you cut a larger range of Imperial threads with accurate pitch.

Howard.

 

Edited By Howard Lewis on 01/08/2018 10:10:38

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by JasonB on 28/07/2018 08:23:22:

I think we may need a separate thread "who has got the most blocks"

Anyone got the 15-30-60 size that Uncle Ketan has quietly slipped into his range without even putting them on the new products page?

Sorry I didn't get around to it. This size was one of Johns last requests… something to do with being a good size for use with the 80mm versatile vice, but I couldn't fully work out how or why…. maybe used in similar way to parallels, laid flat.

Ketan at ARC.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

The Chester DB-10G lathe I have uses modulus 1.0 gears with a 5/8" bore (Correction the bore is not 5/8" it is 16mm.) I think it is likely that the DB10 uses the same gears. If this is the case then the outside diameter of the gears = (number of teeth + 2) * 1mm. This would mean thet a 127 toothe gear had an outside diameter of 129mm. Arceurotrade sell a 63 tooth gear for the mini-lathe which is modulus 1.0 and has a 12mm bore. Ibougt one of these and bored it out to 5/8" and this give me some more screwcutting options. Chester normally have a box of assorded gears for sale at the shows. I have bought a number of different gears to give even more options. They all neaded boring out or bushing but it was worth the effort. Using the 63 tooth gear and a 25 tooth gear bought from the assorted gear box I can cut a near perfect 14 TPI thread which is actually 13.999 TPI.

Les.

Edited By JasonB on 03/08/2018 13:21:53

[jimmy bParticipant @jimmyb]

Posted by JasonB on 28/07/2018 08:23:22:

I think we may need a separate thread "who has got the most blocks"

Anyone got the 15-30-60 size that Uncle Ketan has quietly slipped into his range without even putting them on the new products page?

Yes!

I've got 4 of each size, (10-20-40,13-30-60, 20-40-80) and a few 123 blocks.

I always seem to need one more……

Jim

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Posted by JasonB on 28/07/2018 08:23:22:

I think we may need a separate thread "who has got the most blocks"

Anyone got the 15-30-60 size that Uncle Ketan has quietly slipped into his range without even putting them on the new products page?

Hi Jason, not yet, only just noticed them today. Hmmm, better get some ordered before every ones knows and he runs out of stock.

Regards Nick.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I think we may need a separate thread "who has got the most blocks"

Anyone got the 15-30-60 size that Uncle Ketan has quietly slipped into his range without even putting them on the new products page?

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

They are just an accurately made pair of blocks that have threaded holes to enable them to be bolted to things like angle plates etc. They often don't bolt to each other very usefully. They are useful for setting up work on a mill as they are parallel and accurately sized. They can be useful on a surface table for setting up a job for marking out. The only limit to their use is your imagination. If you have a pair they will be useful. They also provide apprentices with a task involving the production of an accurately sized and square block with many accurately drilled and tapped holes. Arceurotrade have sets that John Stevenson designed that do bolt together in useful configurations and some small ones that may be useful on some of our smaller jobs. Although 123 is a common size, larger and smaller versions are available.

Mike

Edited By Mike Poole on 27/07/2018 20:21:48

[Paul H 1Participant @paulh1]

My lathe and mill are both Chinese, bought from SPG 2 years ago and I am a happy camper. I live in France and before I bought did a very thorough research of not just the offerings in the UK but in France and the countries around me. What became very apparent was that pretty much the same products were being sold by many European vendors but at much higher prices than their equivalents in the UK, plus generally with a poor accessories spec with them. Delivery form the UK was very reasonable and quick.

Martin 100 makes the very valid point "Without the likes of ARC or Axminster etc I would suspect few here would ever have a 'new' mill or lathe."

Buying what I did at the prices offered, enabled me to fulfill a 40 year ambition and have new equipment as well.

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello Patrick,

I have an Optimum BF20 Vario milling machine since 2008 that has not been used much. To tell you about the capabilities of it, let me tell you that with BF20 I made the most of a Gingery shapper, which is not yet complete, and you can see here ***HERE***.

Since 2014 I have not used it.
I like her a lot, it works well.
However, because it is in a spline that the spindle receives the movement transmitted to it by the gears, after a few years of use, when in a somewhat more demanding work, there is an very annoying noise that causes me to wish, if I could, substitute the system geared by a pulley and belt system

I suspect most of the clones of the BF20 have the same transmission mechanism…

If I could replace the Optimum BF20 Vario with a machine that uses pulley and belt, and now brushless motor. Probably a Sieg SX3 HiTorque from ArcEurotrade.
Another possibility will be to acquire and install in the milling machine a transformation kit for pulley and belt but I do not yet know how to move forward when I start working again with the milling machine …

I am, in Portugal, a casual and satisfied customer of ArcEuroTrade.

Because English is not my mother tong, I fear not being clear. If so, please let me know and I'll try better.

Regards
Dias Costa

Edited By dcosta on 26/07/2018 15:59:04

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Oh, and if anyone looking at cost of entry into model engineering, 'currently' there is a great bundle for under £500.00 on the SX1L mill… which is fully loaded with a great vice, collets, clamping kit, some end mills, and cutting fluid, to get you started.

Ketan at ARC

[Brian Davies 6Participant @briandavies6]

Hi ,some very useful info received thank you , my main hobby is wood turning and I do admit I sharpen and hone all my own chisles I have a grinder a Tormek system and a Robert Sorby pro edge delux sytem I have to say the SB Pro Edge is my preferred method of sharpening my chisles ,I have created a account with Arc Euro trade and will have a look what’s available

Thanks

Brian

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Hi Brian,

I use HSS about 20% of the time. I started with this set, and have since supplemented it with right and left knives of the same type (available individually from the same supplier.) An advantage for the beginner is the pre-formed knives are easy to sharpen.

With HSS tools of this type, or blanks, I'm afraid you can't avoid learning to use a grinding wheel! It needs practice and not everyone is good at it.

The obvious alternative is indexed carbide insert tooling. All you have to do with these is set the tool to the right height and replace the insert when it loses it's edge. Unfortunately carbide works best on fast powerful lathes, and – although they perform on slower machines, it may be harder to get a good finish than HSS.

One type of tool for the beginner to avoid is brazed tip carbide.

Don't get too hung up on buying quality. Unlike a decent wood chisel, HSS cutters are consumable. If a purchase doesn't work out, try a different type.

Chaps often appear on the forum asking where they can get quality tools and the conversation tends to follow the same path:

• Q. Lots of cheap rubbish out there, where can I buy a quality tool?
• A. Example like this, where the tool shank is about £200 and the tips £40 each. (To be fitted to a lathe costing £1000 … )
• Result: Questioner collapses clutching his wallet and adjusts his expectations when he's feeling better. I've yet to see anyone ask the question and then actually cough up for an expensive item. The answer is to reduce the risk by avoiding very cheap, though you will miss some genuine bargains. I've done much better buying from the established vendors than random sources. Firms active on this forum are unlikely to supply truly awful junk, and they behave when things go wrong. Secondhand is a good option if you know what you're doing.

The good news is excellent work is done with hobby tools – you don't need to spend a fortune to get reasonable results.

Hope that helps,

Dave

PS John Haine mentions the Eccentric tool – not used one myself but they get good reports and the blanks are easy to sharpen.

 

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 26/07/2018 09:57:48

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 26/07/2018 10:00:38