Search Results for 'arc euro'

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

This is being posted with my workshop hat on and in no way a plug for ARC Euro trade as I don't see why I should when Hiawatha still has my two quid.

Firstly diamond wheels, the purists have always said that you don't grind HSS or normal steel on them as the carbon migrates into the diamond or visa versa and generally makes a dogs dinner of the wheel.

When they used to be £100 a pop I gladly believed this and only used mine for tungsten, since they have dropped in price to £4 17s and 8p sod it try it and treat it as a consumable.

To this end I have had one of ARC's on my Vertex for about 7 years and it still has life in it. In fact I'm waiting for it to pop it's clogs as i have bought two spares and the way it's going the local undertaker will be using them to grind the nails down on my custom engineers coffin.

This wheel has ground Tungsten, finger nails, HSS, fingers and even steel when it's got in the way. Now I'm not geared up to do a scientific examination but I assure you it removes fingerprints just as fast as it did when new.

Ipso facto, case rests.

Now a little tip, patent pending. Diamond wheels are fine for licking up, as regards removing stock they are useless. Green grit will remove stock but won't put a real fine edge on, plus they wear fast and create loads of dust.

I still use some large 3/4" shanked special shaped brazed carbide tooling, if this chips as it sometimes does you may have to remove 40 – 50 thou off the front or top face to clean up.

A green grit wheel will take about 10 minutes to do this at the cost of probably an 1/8" off the wheel.

However ARC sells some diamond faced wheels designed to fit angle grinders [ usual no connection – Ketan stick me another two freebies in the post for the plug – cough ]

If you fit one of these to a cheap angle grinder mounted on one of those cheap Lidl stands they make an ace grinder for ripping off tungsten.

The tool I mentioned earlier takes about 4 minutes to get a new face and the finish is enough that a 30 second lick on the diamond cup wheel is enough. Again life on these is very good and they are reversible.

John S.

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

A half inch diameter ball nosed end mill is £10.30 from ArcEuro. If you genuinly cannot afford a tenner (?) then regrind a 1/2" drill to give a 90 degree included angle and allow the ball to sit on that. Alternatively put your block of aluminium in a chuck and gring a boring bar bit to create the radius form and simply bore it to size and form. However as GB says we could all do with more information to give accurate advice.

[David LittlewoodParticipant @davidlittlewood51847]

Doug,

I have several diamond wheels, bought from Arc Euro Trade. They are excellent for sharpening tungsten carbide – vastly better than the old green grit wheels – and are very reasonably priced. I recommend you try the cup or dish types for most tool sharpening, they have a flat face.

David

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Clive Hartland on 04/11/2012 22:57:39:

Mick, you can go all though the adverts and brochures and each one seems better than the other, I did this recently with a budget in mind of £1000 and even considered a Wabeco at £2900 which is a very nice machine but ended up with a SiegX3 from ArcEuro. It was delivered to the door and put in the garage for me. How you get it onto the bench is up to you as it weighs about 162Kg , it will need some considerable effort and cunning. I did it on planks of wood and two Sons. It comes complete with enough equipment to use straight away, cutters and vice and collets, all spanners and allen keys and a clamp set. Consider it as it is more than adequate for anything I will do.

Clive

Hi Clive,

You were lucky that the delivery driver put the wooden case into your garage. ARC uses a pallet delivery franchise company to deliver large machines such as the X3. Terms of ARCs agreement with them is that they will have a pallet truck on board their vechicle. The vehicle would also have a tail lift. They will use the pallet truck to move the machine case onto the tail lift to bring it down to the floor level, then move the pallet to the nearest hard surface, put it down and then go. Some drivers are more co-operative then others.

Ketan at ARC.

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

Yes Mick, I took advantage of the offer from ArcEuro, I suggest you get on to them and see what they can offer.

I do believe there were other offers so its worth checking.

Clive

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

The Glanze indexable tips are fine for roughing but you should by some better tips from Greenwood/Cutwel/Sumitomo/ArcEuro for real work.

You must be on centre height (tolerance here is critical, parting tools better than +/-0.1mm for example)

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Chris

If you only need to do twist drills and the ends of end-mills and slot drills both are probably overkill. I believe the Vertex device you mention is a variant on the Deckel design and thus primarily laid out for engraving cutters although it does have lathe tool, drill and end-mill sharpening capability with the correct accessories. The Quorn is a do-almost-anything-that-can-be-mounted device designed to be within the construction capabilities of the skilled home worker. As with all versatile devices setting up and manipulation procedures need to be mastered before reliable results can be got. This can prove complex and, probably, regular practice is needed to keep your skills sharp. I suspect most Quorn kits are completed more as an apprentice piece to demonstrate that the builder is now a properly skilled worker than for a real need.

For more basic requirements the simple swing-across-a-wheel twist drill sharpeners, e.g. Picador et al, give very acceptable results once you have got your head around coping with the inevitable geometrical infelicities. Doesn't help that there are two distinct breeds with differing set-ups. Especially when some of the low end imports come with the wrong instructions! Things go much better using a narrow cup wheel rather than the side of a conventional wheel. The Atlas style which works off the face of the wheel is far superior, but was rather more expensive when on the market, and essentially never made it out of America. Despite being 'orribly plastic the one in the Plasplugs set works pretty well too. Martek, Drill-Doctor and the various poke-it-in-a-hole-at-an-angle-to-the-wheel types are notorious for some good / some bad results with no apparent rhyme or reason.

For sharpening end-mills devices working on the same principles as the Stevenson's ER 32 Sharpening Fixture sold by ArcEuroTrade http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collet-Fixtures should be adequate for most home users. That particular one requires a surface grinder but there have been various home user friendly designs published which use a standard grinder. The "Cannon" one published in either ME or MEW around 2000 (?) is probably the simplest and looked as if it should work.

If you fancy building a versatile device the Brooks (almost a Quorn Lite) design published way back in the early days of MEW looks to be a decent balance between function and build simplicity.

Regrettably the home worker is ill served by sharpening devices. Typically the choice is between too complex / too expensive / or too simple and needs too much practice. I feel that something combining TipLap style operation at a few fixed angles for lathe tools with Stevenson's style operation for 4 facet drill and end-mill sharpening would be more appropriate in function and cost. Interlocking finger Vee blocks are an entirely adequate alternative to collets for holding round shanks. Proper attention needs to be paid to repeatable tool positioning and projection via screws and stops. Setting to scales or card templates is not acceptable, nor is rotating the tool to the next flute, despite the prevalence of such methods in existing practice.

Clive

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

Mick, you can go all though the adverts and brochures and each one seems better than the other, I did this recently with a budget in mind of £1000 and even considered a Wabeco at £2900 which is a very nice machine but ended up with a SiegX3 from ArcEuro. It was delivered to the door and put in the garage for me. How you get it onto the bench is up to you as it weighs about 162Kg , it will need some considerable effort and cunning. I did it on planks of wood and two Sons. It comes complete with enough equipment to use straight away, cutters and vice and collets, all spanners and allen keys and a clamp set. Consider it as it is more than adequate for anything I will do.

Clive

[NJHParticipant @njh]

No Dennis

I think the ArcEuro part No. is more likely to be *******!!!

No doubt John will enlighten us when he finally gets up!

N

[StovepipeParticipant @stovepipe]

…and ArcEuro part number is ???????

Dennis

[Kevin FParticipant @kevinf]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 04/11/2012 11:22:19:

Posted by Kevin Fenrich on 03/11/2012 15:01:38:

Check out this link

.**LINK**

Edited By Kevin Fenrich on 03/11/2012 15:04:15

Above link doesnt seem to work. Try this one if it works:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/Rock%20Oil%20Data/Maxsyn-SLF-TDS.pdf

Ketan.

Thank you I'm still finding my way around the forum

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Kevin Fenrich on 03/11/2012 15:01:38:

Check out this link

.**LINK**

Edited By Kevin Fenrich on 03/11/2012 15:04:15

Above link doesnt seem to work. Try this one if it works:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/Rock%20Oil%20Data/Maxsyn-SLF-TDS.pdf

Ketan.

[robert mortParticipant @robertmort83504]

Surely this is what you need – remote displays and cheaper than most solutions mentioned before:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Digital-Readouts-with-Dedicated-Remote-Display

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

Hello John, I did consider fitting one to the lathe but as yet have not got around to it, I know that a reading applied will take double the cut but all I would be interested in is repeating the last reading/cut. Maybe already measured with another vernier.

I think ArcEuro do them, users say that they gunge up if cutting fluid is used, but most of us apply it with a brush.

Other than that I cannot answer the question and am sure someone will come along soon with a credible answer.

Clive

[MICHAEL WILLIAMSParticipant @michaelwilliams41215]

Diamond files . Not little needle files but more small engineers file sizes . ARC have a good range .

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk

Regards ,

Michael Williams .

[Will RobertsonParticipant @willrobertson16447]

Hi Jason,

I noticed that quite a few folk had made home-made oil fired furnaces capable of reaching very high temperatures so I'll maybe look at that and try to work out whether that or the electric furnace would get the parts to be soldered up to temperature fastest. Was enviously watching a roofer today with his collection of high pressure, high power propane blow torches…

I'll go to P600 or P1000 with the slide valve for the S50 – good to know that I'm on the right lines.

Hi Clive,

I posted a photograph of the Ifanger boring tool I got – let me know if it's right. It's maybe a little short for my engine so I'll maybe get one a little bigger as well.

I tried to get 1000 abrasive powder but Arc Eurotrade and CTC don't stock abrasive powder. Arc Eurotrade do stock P1000 wet and dry paper so I'll get some of that and keep an eye open for the powder. I've got an old photocopier for this sort of thing in Scotland but no plate glass for this here despite keeping my eyes open for some time – will continue to hunt for old scanners, photocopiers, windows, etc.

Thanks for your advice about the brazing – I'll maybe try with a piece of scrap first to see how it goes and be able to cut the joint open to make sure that all has gone well.

Will

[chris jParticipant @chrisj]

Posted by _Paul_ on 23/10/2012 12:14:29:

I have one of these Precision Vices on my smaller (Geo. Taylor) mill (18" x 6" ) very accurate for the price.

Regards

Paul

Edit due to Anal forum software.

Edited By _Paul_ on 23/10/2012 12:17:22

I looked at these Paul but didn't like the lack of a mount to the bed.

As far as I can tell you have to clamp them to the bed with a clamping kit, how do you find that.

I liked them otherwise.

Chris

[_Paul_Participant @_paul_]

I have one of these Precision Vices on my smaller (Geo. Taylor) mill (18" x 6" ) very accurate for the price.

Regards

 

Paul

Edit due to Anal forum software.

Edited By _Paul_ on 23/10/2012 12:17:22

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Terryd on 15/10/2012 16:57:59:

Arc Eurotrade is a good place to get them (hear that Ketan, when do I get my commission? ). Seriously, as a satisfied customer I have always been happy with their quality and service.

So thats two cups of tea then

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi Gary,

I would personally go with the backplate for the lathe as David and I suggested earlier, and then later buy a taper collet chuck when you get the milling machine (I never call it a 'mill', although that is acceptable nowadays, but I think of a mill as a place where flour is made, or where steel is rolled ).

The versatility of these systems is the reason they are so popular. And you can buy as many or as few collets as you need, when you need. I had a basic set bought as a present some time ago and am perfectly happy with them.

Arc Eurotrade is a good place to get them (hear that Ketan, when do I get my commission? ). Seriously, as a satisfied customer I have always been happy with their quality and service.

Best regards and let us know how you get on,

Terry

[David LittlewoodParticipant @davidlittlewood51847]

Gary,

On the choice of collet chuck, be aware of this. A chuck on a morse taper shank will need to be held in with a drawbar (miling cutters do have a tendency to make cutters or chucks walk out of their locations*). The result of this is that there is no through bore, so you can only hold short lengths of material. The best ultimate position to work towards is this: a backplate fitting chuck for use on the lathe (such as **LINK**), and a morse taper (or R8, if that's what you end up with) chuck for the milling machine when you get one. Since the collets themselves are the expensive bit, this will give you the optimum utility for a moderate final outlay.

*This is why you should never use a drill chuck for milling. ER collets hold the cutters firmly enough to avoid this – but you must ensure you tighten them up properly.

David

[joegibParticipant @joegib]

As others have said, getting a set of collets that will suit both your lathe and mill is the best long term solution. However, if money's tight at the moment an MT3 endmill holder of this sort will do fine:

**LINK**

At £12 odd a throw they're not especially cheap so you can save a few more £s by buying an MT3 Blank End Arbor, boring it to match the endmill and fitting a grubscrew (assuming you have suitable screw tackle). See here:

**LINK**

Joe

 

Edited By joegib on 15/10/2012 14:53:45

Edited By joegib on 15/10/2012 14:55:44

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi Gary,

I would consider a collet system to hold your cutters. They are consistently concentric, they are also useful for holding small diameter work concentrically in the lathe instead of a chuck.. If you decide on collets I would suggest perhaps the ER25 range. You can get MT3 holders but you can also get collet chucks which bolt onto your lathe in place of the standard chuck. The holder and collets can also be used on the milling machine when you get one.

the beauty of the ER collets is that they can each hold a range of sizes, so a 5-6mm will hold that range, and if you have sequential collets they are capable of handling any size from the smallest to the largest collet size. Another advantage is that because of this range ability you can hold imperial as well as metric in the same collet.

As for cutter size, don't go too small or too large for a starter. Say 10mm. You can always use a flycutter for large areas.

What do others think ( ask 10 model engineers and you'll get 20 answers – it's the nature of the beast.)

Regards

Terry

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi Edward,

Jan Ridder is a prolific model engine builder in the Netherlands who has designed many model engines including hit and miss, Stirling and flame gulpers. They are all made from bar stock which means that there are no expensive castings to be damaged.

He is very generous and offers his plans freely to anyone who asks by email. His site is in Dutch and English (left side top to change) Here is his site, it is well worth a look, if only to see his beautiful engines. There is also a small engines group on Yahoo.

Here is one of Jan's engines:

 

Regards

Terry

PS I've just come across this Model Engine Makers forum, I found it from Arc Eurotrade site.

T

Edited By Terryd on 13/10/2012 15:17:04

[EtheAv8rParticipant @etheav8r]

Sorry to come in late, but I have been away and busy, so not online.. I have a Super X3 and I am very happy with it, and ther service from ArcEuro.