Search Results for 'arc euro'

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

You might contact your local model engineering society. Although many will have machines already someone might be interested in upgrading. Once you have sold the main machines the society might agree to clear the rest and sell internally for club funds. At least your dad is helping a club rather than the scrapman.
The endmill sharpening lunar module is what ArcEuro sell and has had some discussion on here a few years ago. I’ve not seen one on the second hand market before.

[Martin Johnson 1Participant @martinjohnson1]

Thanks to all that have taken the trouble to reply.  I value your opinions & experience.

SOD – I am aware of the diamond / steel reaction thing.  I am sure in industry where rate of metal removal and tooling expenditure counts it is important.  Roderick & Mark’s experience in a home workshop seems to indicate it is not such an issue for us metal ticklers.  Cleaning up after wheel dressing is an issue because the T & C grinder lives in the machine shop to keep rust off the various slidey bits of the T & C grinder.  So clouds of abrasive dust are less than welcome, although clearing up the immediate area with the vacuum cleaner is no big deal.

I think from overall reaction that Arc Euro resing bonded wheels are the way to go.  it’s not correct in theory, but for occasional use it works (like a lot of engineering!)

Martin

[Roderick Jenkins]

On Roderick Jenkins Said:

I use the resin bonded diamond discs supplied by ARCeurotrade succesfully for touching up the edges of saws and gear cutters.  There is no indication of the grit size on the ARC website.  However, diamond is not recommended for grinding steels because the diamond reacts with the carbon in steels when hot, leading to premature wear.  So, if I were looking to do some heavy duty shaping of tools on a cutter grinder and thinking of buying an expensive metal bonded wheel I would be looking at CBN (cubic boron nitride) rather than diamond.

Rod

Yes but I find it a bit worrying when suppliers don’t quote a grit.  Many years ago, I bought a diamond impregnated cup wheel from Dunstable.  It is probably the finest grit known to mankind and won’t grind the skin off a rice pudding.  So I really don’t want to go down that road again.  I do accept that ARC Euro have a better reputation than Dunstable.

I looked at the CBN wheels, but what a price!  Is reaction of diamond to steel really relavant for model engineering use where the T& C grinder gets used maybe 3 times a year?  I could buy 3 sets of diamond impregnated for what one CBN wheel would cost, so even if I replace diamond wheels twice I would still be winning.

I don’t do heavy duty shaping on the tool & cutter grinder (it doesn’t have the power).  That would be a job for the angle grinder!

It just seems to be pot luck out there!

Martin

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

I use the resin bonded diamond discs supplied by ARCeurotrade succesfully for touching up the edges of saws and gear cutters.  There is no indication of the grit size on the ARC website.  However, diamond is not recommended for grinding steels because the diamond reacts with the carbon in steels when hot, leading to premature wear.  So, if I were looking to do some heavy duty shaping of tools on a cutter grinder and thinking of buying an expensive metal bonded wheel I would be looking at CBN (cubic boron nitride) rather than diamond.

Rod

[Steve HuckinsParticipant @stevehuckins53362]

Jason I am grateful for your advice and knowledge. I think the 80 mm arceuro option is now my firm favourite. I have subscribed to your YouTube channel and look forward to diving in. I appreciate the time that contributors to the forum give to help others. I am learning a lot from a very low base. It’s a shame I cannot find a meeting somewhere near where I live on Exmoor.Regards. Steve

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The one I have is from ARC Eurotrade and they don’t quote any accuracy figures so can’t really say that it lives up to something that is not specified. But I have not found it wanting as far as accuracy is conserned, bottom of the opening is parallel to the base and vertical face of jaws as square as I can measure to that. There are cheaper sources that can be a bit pot luck with what you might get but at least with a known supplier you can get any queries dealt with an dif anything ever needed to be returned it is easier than sending back to China.

I did do a comparison some time ago to compare jaw lift between the different vices I have, the 0.0001″ or 2.5microns lift is not worth worrying about for model engines and you can always tap a critical part down in the vice if needed (I seldom do)

This is a video of how true the vice can be set up using the tenons provided, Not set up for the video just clocked from when I had been using it earlier in the week to take some heavy cuts with an indexable shell mill. Good enough unless you want to make something to go to the moon. I’ve an old post somewhere about fitting the tenons, if I can’t find it I will post it again in the next few days.

If you look through my other videos all the engines made in the last few years have had some parts held in the 80mm vice and the majority of the CNC videos use it. It will be fine for Stuart steam engines.

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

I have done quite a few reviews of gear in the garage. Never had anything free or associated with any of the products. I did a review of the arc euro 4″ vise that i bought from them. I have noticed that a lot of viewers who are watching me make the slightly larger than miniature hit & miss engine do not seem to be keen on my car/motorcycle video’s. As said above you look & if you do not like then move on . There is plenty for everyone out there. I have stickers from all over the world from other like type youtube channels. I asked a suscriber who follows me if he would like to do a sticker swap. The answer i got was I do not do that crap.

Each to there own i guess.

Steve.

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Hi Nigel, Robert (et al.)

Bare with me for a moment.

My magic number is 28mm (top of top-slide to centre-line). See pic1 below

The main problem/restriction with these standard/crap tool-posts is the 15mm min base tool height. See pic2

In pic3 below the QCTP tool holder is sitting on the cross-slide. The dimension H is (‘Standard’ type) 11mm. If my measurement from the top of the cross-slide to centre-line is 28mm, I could potentially use a tool of 17mm with that toolpost. BUT the holder only holds 14mm. If it actually does sit/lower to the Top-Slide*.

The T51 QUICKCHANGE TOOLPOST (same H dimension) is 8mm (as advised by RDG), meaning that I could use a max tool height of 20mm. As long as it does actually sit/lower to the level of the Top-slide*.

The T51 has a 16mm max tooling (and for completeness the T63 has a 20mm max tooling).

Looks to me that there are options available and the wider choice of tool sizes means better tools should be available.

Now here’s the question – have I made any stupid mistakes in my above logic/assessment?

Cheers

Danni

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

I’ve had the ARC Euro one for a couple of years.  Completely satisfied with it.

Russell

I posted a while back about my digital micrometer giving up the ghost, it is a Machine DRO brand.

Now decided to invest in a new one, well hopefully someone else will as a Birthday/Christmas present, my Birthday is a week before Christmas.

Initially decided on a Mitutoyo. I have a caliper of that brand. However they are expensive of course so now wondering if I should rein in my ambitions and settle for a budget one (which my Machine DRO was)

Looking at the ones from ARC Eurotrade, a company I have much respect for.

Anyone like to venture an opinion as to best budget micrometer please.

Bill D.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If the intent is to uses a C3 size, or thereabouts, lathe indoors, the Chester Craftsman is too large. It is a heavy machine, 300KG, capable of swinging 300mm, (450mm in the removable gap ) and hoilding work 600mm between centres.

The chucks are heavy, especially the 200mm 4 jaw independent.

I have a ETR BL12-24 which is effectively the same machine, (Warco BH600 lookallike ) with a 5MT Spindle and a Norton gearbox.  Versatile, but by model engineering standards, a big machine.

Were I in the market for a new lathe, I would seriously consider the SC4. Have only seen one in use, other than the ones at Arc Euro. Apart from having to use changewheels again, it seems to have most of the features that I would want.

HTH

Howard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Being bone idle, why not buy a soft stub arbor from someone like Arc Euro, and machine the end.

You will have the 2MT taper already ground.

You will probably need to make up a suitable drawbar for it.

The OD for an ER11 will need to be 16mm, at a guess, with a 1.5 mm pitch thread.

As you already knoe trhe internal taper will be produced with the Top Slide offset by 8 degrees, to give a 16 degree overall taper.

This works for me!

Howard

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Work-Tables/Cast-Iron-Work-Table-200x90mm

Appears to be identical to the Proxxon one but made of cast iron.  You can always improve the leadscrews to reduce backlash etc and careful gib adjustment helps reduce slop.

Many years back I bought a Proxxon pillar drill with their coord table and have never found either of them very useful.  Over-priced and under specced IMHO.

[Nigel BennettParticipant @nigelbennett69913]

I enjoyed the show, too, but I was concerned about the large areas of it occupied by tables and chairs; in previous years these areas had been full of models!

Benedict – Arc Euro haven’t been to an exhibition for quite some time; Ketan explained some years ago that the costs involved and the hassle with sorting out stock levels afterwards was too much to cope with.

The LNER P2 and Mike Sayers’ Delage engine were sight to behold.

Took us two hours to get down to the show on Friday and nearly four hours to get back – the weather and traffic was appalling!

[Benedict WhiteParticipant @benedictwhite51126]

I enjoyed the show. Got to look at some good models have some interesting chats and get hands on with some potential purchases which became actual purchases.

Didn’t see Arceurotrade there or Chronos. RDG had a huge stand and Stuart had lots of goodies too.

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Extraordinary what risks a brainless thief will take. Many years ago, when ArcEuro and Maidstone Engineering had stands, along with other tool stands, there was a crowd gathered around another toolstand and I was at the back of the group. Someone on my left asked the stand holder a question, distracting him and someone on my right grabbed a handful of wooden file handles and disappeared. Probably only about 50p each then. I have seen small cheap items lifted a large chemist's and the culprit marched out fast. Also seen man and woman pushing small child in buggy around Debenhams, picking very expensive, at that time, £50 shirts, casually fold them up and place them on the shelf under the buggy. I had them stopped by Security. All very well having Alarm cables but only suitable for models on club stands. Potential trade stand customers want to pick up and examine items before purchasing. I think the kind of cctv screens used by supermarkets at their self checkouts would probably drive prospects away. Cost would likely be prohibitive for that purpose. I think you will find that the cheapest items are nearest the front on traders stands. I often buy eggs from a market stall in Brighton run by Steve Ovett's family. After he won an Olympic gold medal, it was put on display right at the back of the stand! Perhaps large Perspex type screens could be used for model and small tool displays.

Edited By DMB on 03/10/2023 22:17:19

[LathejackParticipant @lathejack]

Well lots of useful suggestions already, with lots of choice from either a new imported machine or an older used machine.

The Sieg C4 has already been mentioned, and I still think it might be one of the lathes worth considering.

Although you are upsizing, I am having to start downsizing, and have spent at least the last 15 years considering what machines to buy as the time approaches, and the Siege SC3 together with a Siege SC4 were the two lathes I have settled on.

I recently visited Arceurotrade to view and buy the SC3 and SC4. I had not previously managed to have a proper look at an SC4 lathe in the flesh. Well the Siege SC4 was certainly an impressive machine, I felt like my eyes were popping out of my head like a kid in a sweet shop. A very well made, solid and substantial lathe which looked a worthwhile step up from a mini lathe. Apart from the smaller spindle bore it has a comparable capacity with a similar swing but longer between centres to the AMA210 that you were considering. The SC4 also has the benefit of power feeds built into the apron giving power cross feed and longitudinal power feed, plus lots of Tee slots.

The helpful staff at Arc are straight talking with no nonsense, so would give good advice either way if you had any doubts.

I intended to run the new SC3 lathe in the living room on tiny parts, just to keep me mechanically occupied when I couldn't leave the house, and then buy an SC4 for the workshop, to replace my bigger Warco lathe, for use on the now rare occasions I can sneak into the workshop for the odd hour or two.

Things didn't go to plan unfortunately for me, and I don't think i will be able to buy the machines I want from Arc, but I still think there is enough of a step up from a C3 to the impressive SC4 to make it a worthwhile upgrade.

In fact I am sure someone on this forum has moved up from a Clarke C3 lathe and bought a C4 lathe, and is more than happy with no regrets, I think it may have been Niel Wyatt, not absolutely sure.

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

I fitted the digital readout bars from Arceurotrade to my Warco mill, but found the display a bit small. I made a circuit on veroboard with an Arduino nano and Bluetooth module to use the TouchDRO app by yuri as mentioned by Colin above. The app runs on a very cheap tablet ( I think it was £35). I fitted a 3rd readout bar to replace the existing quill dro.

There are photos in my Mill DRO album : **LINK**

If you happy with programming the Arduino and a bit of soldering, it is a cheap alternative to a ‘proper’ DRO.

Stuart

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Benedict, I too used Arc Euro scales Digital Readout Bars on my mini mill almost eight years ago, and they are still working fine, and like John used a standard vertical readout bar for the quill, which is similar to these from Arc Euro Standard Vertical Readout Bar

You can see how I fitted mine DRO's for a Mini Mill

Regards Nick.

[john halfpennyParticipant @johnhalfpenny52803]

I used the Arc Euro scales for my Naerok. Left and rear sides of the table, and on the quill. Quite straightforward fitment.

[PeteParticipant @pete41194]

Emco produced and sold a couple of different versions of 3 jaw chucks for the Compact 5 designed to fit either your cnc or my manual C5 since they both used the exact same spindle and chuck mounting Michael. So it depends on just which chuck you have. If my memory isn't faulty for what Emco called them? The much more expensive chucks were what they were referred to as heavy duty and noticeably quite a bit thicker than those lighter standard versions. I've no idea if each of those standard or HD chucks used the exact same jaws or not though. And they didn't just have one set of jaws, there were two matched sets for holding larger or smaller parts either by the OD or ID. High precision chuck manufacturing is fairly specialized. So I've always suspected Emco may have had one of the better European chuck manufacturer's produce chucks for all of there lathe sizes and just had there own Emco name added to them. Bison, Rohm or some other manufacturer possibly? And as far as I know, none of the other well known lathe brands produced a smaller sized lathe with that same 3 or 4 cap screws through the chuck mounting system that Emco used on these C5's. But I could also be incorrect. I do remember that chuck mounting design does have it's own German DIN designation, so it is something recognized as a spindle standard.

Even then, I think it would be highly doubtful if you ever found any used jaws that would or could produce the same OEM concentricity without doing a very good job preloading and re-grinding those jaws to work with your own scroll and jaw slots in the chuck body you already have. Mine would do at or under .001" run out at any dimension I checked. So they were very good chucks. There is a small niche business in Europe who sometimes have Emco C5 machines and accessories. Try nielsmachines.com/en He also has a Youtube channel showing anything he has for sale as well as all his older videos. Doing a YT search for the channel name Neils Vrijlandt should find it. Separate chuck jaws could still be quite tough to find even through him, and a complete used chuck would probably be easier. But even good condition and used, any C5 chuck with both sets of jaws won't be exactly cheap since those accessories are now much harder to find and not all that common. And Niels certainly knows that. Fwiw and for pricing reference purposes for anything you might find, just over 30 yrs ago and in Canadian dollars, those HD 3 jaw chucks were right around $450.

Both the manual and cnc C5 also had a 4 jaw scroll chuck that were offered with that same heavy duty designation, again even more expensive (just over $500) than the HD 3 jaw, a lighter semi steel 4 jaw independent chuck, ($125) a cast iron face plate ($65) a ESX 25 collet chuck and collets. Because of the high price, I also suspect those collets might have been manufactured by possibly Schaubin. Although the accuracy of mine certainly reflects what they cost. But making your own face plate or even a ER 25 or larger series collet chuck isn't out of the question. And at that same 30 + years ago time period, the Emco collet chuck and a full set of the collets were almost $900.

Those original single ph C5 motors were also expensive. I had to have mine replaced under warranty and I believe the supplier told me it was around $800. At the time a complete but without any options manual C5 was around $1200. I'm using a VFD to supply 3 ph power to my BP clone mill. Today that really is the best way to go since 3 ph is so much smoother and a VFD allows far better and vastly superior motor control options. It does depend on what you plan on doing with yours though. For the usual part sizes you'd use a lathe of this size for, then a 1/2 HP motor should be fine. I'm also pretty sure Emco's single ph motors used an European metric standard face mounting. But I've no idea if that exact same standard is used on the 3 ph motors as well or not. An industrial electrical supplier should be able to tell you for sure. Most industrial 3 ph motor websites will usually have line drawings giving all the important dimensions, so a bit of research on those would also tell you if you can match the motor shaft size and bolt hole locations to the C5 motor mounting plate and it's drive pulley shaft size.

For diameters of 3"- to it's full 5" capacity and at lower rpm's, then you may still need to drop your depths of cut and feed rates a bit, or just keep and use the step pulleys you have and do a manual belt change like I do with my mill when I want lower rpm and full torque during longer periods of operation that would have less motor cooling. But these are still small and very light weight machines. One thing I can say, my lathe was totally transformed after I bolted it down to a 1" thick X 27" long X 13 1/2" wide or 25 X 685 X 343 mm thick steel plate the full length of the whole lathe and the same width as the chip pan.That added about 95 lbs/ 43 kgs to the lathe and made it much more accurate and quiet. And extremely important, the bed does need to be properly leveled and adjusted until it will cut truly parallel parts the full length of the bed. Not only does any bed twist produce tapers on the parts, but it won't drill on size and will also bore tapered holes. Another addition I'd highly recommend. I believe in the UK there called Bristol Handles? Over here there known as adjustable or ratcheting handles. I bought two metric threaded one's that match the threads Emco used on the C5 tail stock for locking it to the bed and for clamping the quill. That was a great and very user friendly improvement that still looks like something Emco might have have done but didn't.

Edited By Pete on 26/09/2023 01:29:56

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Negative geomerty really applies to HSS tooling, the CCGT inserts are positive and cut brass and other non ferrous materials very well. Try ARC or APT These will fit your existing holder

[Margaret TrelawnyParticipant @margarettrelawny34058]

Dear all,

thank you to each and every one of you for your offers of help and suggested solutions. Your kindness and support has overwhelmed me.

As mentioned above by Ketan, he and Ian at the wonderful arceuro have gone above and beyond to help solve the issue. Thank you both so much for your superb customer service – going the extra mile to help. I cannot thank you enough.

I take full responsibility for not checking the difference between US and European specs – had I had more experience I perhaps would have twigged there may be an issue. As Bill mentions above, it has been a valuable learning curve!

The 4-bolt plate from LMS for the saddle has fitted a treat with no issues and gives a real stiffness to the tool post mount – something lacking on the standard set up.

Again, I cannot thank you all enough for your help and offers to sort the issues. You really are a brilliant community.

Hopefully, with the purchased 9/16-18 nuts and the roller bearing solution – it will be job done. I will report back as soon as everything is installed and working with hopefully good news.

 

 

Edited By Margaret Trelawny on 25/09/2023 16:13:52

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Thank you to the collective for trying to help the OP to solve his problem.

I have to admit that ARC's catalogue and website were responsible for the OPs confusion. Our Ian is the process of resolving the matter with the customer.

The factory produces these toolposts for the U.S. (imperial) and the European (metric) market. European demand for this product is lower than the U.S., and the quantity we need has to fit in into whatever is being produced at the time. Normally this is fine as long as our website is updated to reflect what we have received into our stock – metric or imperial stud/nut.

ARCs failure to check the specifications received vs what was stated on the website led to the confusion. This has now been corrected.

Ketan at ARC

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Gray

The smallest read head (really small!) is to use a bare sensor and put it your own housing. Some time ago a poster here showed how he enclosed and terminated these tiny modules.

I have tried searching this site but cannot find the relevant thread, the poster gave part numbers, wiring diagrams etc. I think the sensors are made and supplied by a European (Swiss?) company.

I'm not sure if the one is this picture is the same but this poster 'Jed Martens' has not posted recently (if this link works!)

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/images/member_albums/181671/846798.jpg

Ian P