Search Results for 'arc euro'

[OuBallieParticipant @ouballie]

Thor,

Damn I forgot about that other one

Geoff – Well I am recuperating from the drawbar saga

V8Eng,

The bellows are from ArcEuro.

I spent hours searching for something and other than drilling, tapping, slotting and adding a bracket it's a straight fit and easy to lift out.

Protects the Leadscrew to boot.

Geoff – Time to watch 'Breaking Bad'

Edited By OuBallie on 14/12/2014 20:19:08

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

Thor,

I had a similar situation all be it MT2 collet chuck and headstock MT3 so purchase the one I pictured above as the draw bar does tend to pull them in quite tight even with a light pressure on the nut. In the end purchased one that fitted the normal chuck mount with the aid of a back plate as it allows the bar to pass through the headstock.

like these http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Lathe-Collet-Chucks

Bob

Edited By Bob Brown 1 on 14/12/2014 15:43:57

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

On the face of it a simple enough job but how do you remove the adapter if it sticks in the headstock?

one option is a piece of bar up the end or a sleeve like this

or a MT5 ER40 collet chuck like this one **LINK**

 

Bob

BTW there are these 5 to 3 at £9.10 http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/catalogue/adaptors-sleeves

 

Edited By Bob Brown 1 on 14/12/2014 15:32:44

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I would recommend contacting Arc Euro trade and asking for advice on a replacement. The proprietor, Ketan, was a bearing specialist before he went into the ME business.

Neil

[ChrisHParticipant @chrish]

Good 24 hours – ordered my Christmas pressie from Senior Management last night. Had a longish and good conversation with Ketan from ArcEuroTade yesterday morning – and I am not the first and won't be the last to say what a nice man he is, full of good honest advice which he is happy to pass onto you – after which I placed an order for a 2 channel digital readout display with 2 horizontal bars to cover the X and Y travel on my mill. Yes, it is a simple system with no programmable moves, doesn't do trig calcs or give the state of the tide or phase of the moon, but it will do me and didn't cost the earth. Already have a stand alone DRO on the Z travel. Definitely a 'nice to have' rather than a 'need to have' item, but isn't that what Christmas presents are all about?

Then today got an all-day Exit Visa for the shed. Yes, really. Finished the meaty 45mm dia x 3.5mm internal thread on the new 4 jaw chuck backplate, and it fits well the dummy lathe nose I made. Thinking ahead, I then screwed the dummy nose into the backplate whilst it was still set up on the lathe and running true, faced off the rear face flush with the rear of the backplate centre boss and am now boring it out to take a 1in head on a MT2 stub to fit into the rotary table to allow chuck and job to be transferred from lathe to mill and back again with all running true.

Finished with a relaxing soak on the bath with Senior Management bringing me in a beer and cashews to nibble, and we have a curry to follow this evening. Senior Management is being especially nice today – wonder what she wants!

Chris – now relaxing with another beer before the curry in a few moments!

Edited By ChrisH on 06/12/2014 20:23:32

Edited By ChrisH on 06/12/2014 20:24:31

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I dismantled some items today, 1/2" reamed bore on a 1/2"nominal tube turned down to a snug push fit.

I think it proved you don't need a thou or more of clearance for retainer to work, I uses Truloc 268 high temperature retainer from Arc Euro and it took some decent heating and then the application of a 4lb lump hammer to get things to move. there was no way anything would move cold. The one joint was 1/2" long, but the other was only 1/4" long. this si very strong glue!

neil

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

Colin,

I have bought tooling from Warco, RDG, Chronos/Glanze, Arc Euro. All have performed as expected, no complaints.

For the majority of the work you are proposing, HSS tooling will be sufficient, If you use a free cutting stainless for the bridge rollers, then HSS (very sharp) wil be fine even for those piddly 1mm pins on the end of the rollers (be prepared for the odd breakage(pin not tooling) – I've made a few in the past ) For the roller grooves, you will need to grind your own tooling, I used parting tool blades for these. Have sent you a PM so if you have any questions ask away.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

The deburring blades with handles make deburring easy. I am addicted to the cheap sets of four half way down here. or look out for the free mango handle and deburrer tip offer for ME subscriptions.

Neil

[Chris ParsonsParticipant @chrisparsons64193]

Thanks all – I thought there was some 'magic' formula that I didn't know about, but it seem to be a simple case of measuring things and working it out…

I see the ArcEuroTrade rounding cutters show the 'tip' diameter so perhaps this would be a good place to start – half the radius down minus the tip as Jason has said.

My diagram was wrong, the 'top' cutting edge is not stepped in so the side movement would be 5mm in I guess.

I'll so some experimentation of a bit of scrap aluminium

Chris

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

MichaelG,

Dimensions of standard ER collects as shown in your ARC link are correct. I don't think it is so easy to put the ER into the non-standard Chinese, but I could be wrong.

We moved over to ER – when I got to understand the difference, around 2004. Demand for non-standard Chinese has been reducing heavily over the past ten years. Enquires for them are rare nowadays. Still semi-popular in East European countries who have connections with Russia, as non-standard Chinese and Russian engineering share common interests.

Ketan at ARC

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Jason,

Very interesting, and a little worrying !

Compare with the Arc drawing of [presumably] standard ER dimensions

I wonder if the difference in both angle and length means you can [unfortunately] put ER collets in a Chinese pattern holder … If so, it might explain why some people have problems with grip. [*]

[forgive me if this is drivel … I'm full of dental anaesthetic]

MichaelG.

.

[*] Edit: Looking at the numbers, I don't think it should be possible to mix them up.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 01/12/2014 19:01:49

[Barry Chamberlain 1Participant @barrychamberlain1]

Thank you for your comments Ian.

I think the attitude in the home workshop should be along the lines of 'this is not piece work' so taking both more time and lighter cuts will tend to produce the desired result. I have taken on board your Bridgeport experience for when I get to use the ER collets!!

I'm going to purchase the ball bearing type ER32 nuts from Arc Euro which seem to have better closing qualities than the regular nut.

Regards,

Barry

[VicParticipant @vic]

MT2 Collets here if it's of use.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/Morse-Taper-Collets/Morse-Taper-Collets—METRIC

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Owing to the confilcting advice I should just clarify – I have double checked my drill chuck, Clarkson chuck copy, and MT2 adaptor are all M12. My original drawbar that I obviously don't use is 1/2×13 and is the machine's 40 yr old original. So I would go with the metric and if you turn up an American holder by mistake you might be able to offload it on me.

Be aware that you might encounter some home made arbors that are smaller made by skinflints.

Check out Arc Euro for INT30 & 40. His adaptors are cheaper than Ebay starting prices.

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Hi Peter,

I second the comments Christopher Taylor 1 offers for the 180. I've had one since the middle of September this year and enjoy using it. Although mine does have some quality issues I find it is very accurate.

I would recommend a quick change toolpost to go with it. I fitted one of the small QCTP's from Arc Eurotrade and it's a vast improvement in usability over the 4-way toolpost. This requires a new steel sleeve and part of the toolpost body to be bored.

I am also interested in photography and astronomy. Here are a couple of observations I've had about the 180 with regard to this:

– 1.25" filters are apparently 1.25" x 42 TPI (threads per inch). Looking at the thread cutting chart, the 180 does not appear to support 42tpi but there may be a gear cutting combination to allow this. I'd have to check using one of the online change-gear calculators. 2 inch filters have a thread pitch of 0.75mm which is catered for.

– Having 4 inch chucks I find the need to swap out chuck jaws whenever I would like to turn anything larger than 1.5". When I get around to making some astro or photo accessories I'd probably turn between centres, or make mandrels, so there are different ways of achieving the results.

I hope to upgrade later on when funds permit to have the work capacity of the bigger chucks and bed length. I'm relatively new to machining and I think the 180 is a good starting point.

Regards,
Ed.

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by choochoo_baloo on 21/11/2014 15:17:20econdly, I have a bench top grinding wheel, it has available white, grey and green wheels (interchangeable – not all fitted at once!). Are are of these used for tool grinding, or is an oilstone better. What is an oilstone?

White or grey wheels should do for initial grinding. The oilstone is for polishing the cutting edges to get a really sharp smooth edge. A modern alternative to an oilstone is a Diamond Hone. Those are best used with a little water.

Russell

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Well, quite a busy day, today, see the adept thread later…

But I fitted this 'grommet' from Arc Euro Trade to my Mini Lathe. A couple of quid for a wee bit of rubber, but having nuked a controller board when snaking swarf found its way intro the control box a few years ago, I'd say to anyone who hasn't got one of these fitted – do it ASAP!

My current control box is all low voltage (10V), but I still prefer to keep swarf out if I can.

Neil

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

What brand of serial taps were they and where did you buy them from ? I was going to buy the ones from Arc Euro Trade.

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

Hi Terry,

Before making any decision on brand ,size , new or used there are a few things i usually sit down and have a good think about and usually make up a list of pro's and con's that i feel keep me on the straight and narrow.

How much do i wish to spend

How much space do i have to fit it in – no use buying a big heavy lathe that is 6 feet between centres if your using a space under a stair well for a workshop !

Do i want to be able to cut metric or imperial threads or both

What do i want to make with it – ie small IC engines or large traction engines this is what i use to set the parameters for Centre height and between centres dimension.

Do i really want to fiddle around fixing an old lathe and do i have the skills or knowledge to recognise or fix the problems that a used machine may have -replacing spindle bearings or regrinding the bed can be expensive on some machines.

Not knowing where you are from makes recommending suppliers difficult but if you are in the UK i would recommend you give ARC EUROTRADE a call and i'm sure Ketan will guide you along the right path if you are interested in buying new chinese made equipement.

Ian

[Bill PudneyParticipant @billpudney37759]

Maybe I should have been more specific.

I am not saying that I never use taper taps, but as I generally buy my taps and dies "as required" I generally don't bother with a taper tap, especially if it's a fine thread

Most of my threads are in al.alloy and are frequently blind, with a fine pitch. On most of the taper taps that I have the tapered bit occupies 30% + of the working length of the tap, this is frequently greater than the depth of thread. So, for me, the taper tap is of dubious value.

My understanding of tap production is that the thread form is produced first, then the taper is applied in various lengths to create taper, inter and plug taps. This is obviously different when Serial sets are being produced, where taper, inter and plug taps cut a progressively larger thread. So it's not surprising that a normal (non serial) taper tap will cut a thread, especially a through thread in thin materials, that is quite functional.

Having said all this I must say that the serial taps supplied by ArcEuro and Ausee are excellent. I just wish that they were available in a wider range of pitches.

cheers

Bill

[Bill PudneyParticipant @billpudney37759]

I use a lot of threads under M6. So a lot of taps and dies have been purchased. As most of my threads are in al.alloy I have pretty much given up on the taper or first tap, simply buying intermediate and plug taps. I have found that this works fairly well in the harder materials, like steel. However, over M6, I still get all three taps in the courser pitches. For instance I recently required M10 x 1.0 RH and LH taps and dies. Partly….no mainly, to reduce costs I got just the inter and plug taps.

At one stage it seemed to me that I wasn't involved in "model engineering", but "tap and die buying". Maybe that's just my warped outlook!

The serial taps from Arc Euro, and Ausee (up here in 'straya) are good value and they come as a set of three. They do seem to produce good threads, but the range of sizes is limited.

Best of luck

cheers

Bill

[Jerry WrayParticipant @jerrywray14030]

That's a totally different type of primer.

2-pack self etching primer is the sort of primer that performs best on aluminium. The coating to which 'Bill' links does not contain zinc tetroxy chromate (ZTC) which is an essential ingredient and it is this which is the hazardous component.( That's excepting the corrosion hazard of the phosphoric acid contained in the activator component. These primers were developed by the military in WWII based on research which ended up in a formulation which has been in use ever since, but declining.

Follow this link **LINK** to see a short history of UK/NATO use.

Unfortunately the US MSDS to which 'Bill' refers is not to GHS but also does not provide the correct substance classification which must be used in the EU.

The European Chemicals Agency have published an assessment of ZTC which contains the following summary –

Substance Name: Pentazinc chromate octahydroxide

EC Number(s): 256-418-0

CAS Number(s): 49663-84-5

· The substance is identified as a substance meeting the criteria of Article 57 (a) of Regulation

(EC) 1907/2006 (REACH) owing to its classification as carcinogen 1A2 which corresponds to

classification as carcinogen category 13.

You can search for the article its in the public domain..

In Google search – Pentazinc chromate octahydroxide EC number – ECHA.

Jerry

[Steamer1915Participant @steamer1915]

Hello all,

I have been working on a CNC conversion for my Bridgeport Mill. The original idea was to just motorise the X axis and a 6” dia HV table so that the machine could cut gears whilst I got on with more mundane tasks.

The rotary table was done first with a NEMA 23 motor from Arc Euro and a cheap single axis TB6560 driver. BTW, I have found this driver absolutely fine for the NEMA 23 motor, despite hearing and reading many things to the contrary.

The X axis was the next to be undertaken using a Nema 42 motor and a DM2722A driver from Longs motors, again based in China. This was completed successfully and runs very well when driven with Mach3. For the gear cutting, I can live with the backlash on the X axis, but there are hopefully some ball-screws being brought into the UK for me next month.

Work has progressed on the Y axis conversion and I was all set last Friday to run both axis at once and cut a circle, albeit in fresh air. Unfortunately, the Y axis driver has shown an alarm from initial power up and refuses to work. I swapped the drivers over so that the “older” driver drove the Y axis and the motor was fine.

 

I have contacted the suppliers in China and they pretty much say that I must return the driver to them for testing, despite all my explanations and photos. I feel that they have me over a barrel really and the cost of posting to China and accompanying delays, doesn’t help my situation.

 

Is it going to be a practical proposition to have this driver repaired and is there anyone on this forum that could undertake such a task? I feel so frustrated because I came so close, even though I can still cut the gears ok.

Best regards,

Steve.

Edited By Steamer1915 on 27/10/2014 20:15:23

Edited By Steamer1915 on 27/10/2014 20:17:42

[paul simsParticipant @paulsims62082]

Many thanks for your further feedback, It will probably be a few days before I will be able to exhaust all your suggestions and reply as to my results.

Further history: When I had the problem with the Warco, I did not find a reason and was never happy with the results, so I continued to use the lathe, but when I changed to the X3 I thought I would try again but with no improvement, I used the same procedure suggested by Neil, I am not sure what the PRE-LOAD is that Neil mentioned.

I suppose I am lazy and find that protecting the job from jaw marks and then trying to measure the job in situe I am never confident of the resultant measurement My Chuck and spindle would have no problem accomodating said job.

My Vice is the largest of the Arc Euro precision type and is new and unmarked.

Thanks again,

Paul

[Harry WilkesParticipant @harrywilkes58467]

This id worth a look 'link'