Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Hi Euan,

No, they are not typical – my SEIG X2 has spindle runout less than the schlesinger limit of 0.01mm (less than 0.0005" ), I would expect an X3 to be at least as good as an X2.

Usually these sorts of errors are issues with how the test is carried out OR the machine is in factory 'as supplied' condition and isn't properly set up yet.

Can you explain exactly what tests you are doing, ideally with a photo of your test setup?

Are you measuring inside the spindle taper (the correct test) or on material held in a chuck or collet? Also, is there any play in the spindle bearings?

As for the table, this could be loose gibs (allowing the table to tip as it is wound hard over) but if you are measuring with a DTI in the spindle and the spindle is slightly loose, this could also be the cause of the error.

It may well be worth you looking at X3 Preparation Guide

Neil

<got rid of random smiley)

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 17/02/2015 12:45:32

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

If working on firearms and fitting sound moderators etc. you will certainly need an independant 4 jaw chuck.

When threading the barrel you need to dial in the bore not the outside of the barrel. They are seldom in the center and you will always have some run out with a 3 jaw anyway.

Don't forget to save some money for tooling and measuring kit. This can often account for as many coins as the initial lathe purchase and without them you will have a pretty looking piece of metal (the lathe) on your bench and not be able to do any 'proper' work with it.!

Have a browse of the ARC Eurotrade site. (link box on the right hand side of this site) Then have a phone call with Ketan the owner. He's a good guy and will most probably do you an attractive package deal on kit.

Nick

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

For the money, I would personally be looking at the Seig Super C3 sold by Arc-Euro.

Big advantage with the Seig is that it uses a brushless DC motor, I believe the Amadeal still utilises the older brushed DC motors which are not great at low speed. Torque and power are much more consistent throughout the range with a brushless motor.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

This is just a heads-up that, thanks to Arc Euro Trade donating a bundle of very nice prizes, over the spring I will be running a Workshop Photography Competition in MEW.

Full details will appear in the APRIL issue, so I won't go through them here, but suffice to say the challenge will be to 'capture the spirit of home workshop engineering'. The topic was inspired by the great picture of Rod Jenkins on the cover of issue 224.

For anyone inspired to start early, pics will need to be at least six megapixels… and please DON'T post them on here in advance!

Neil

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

I think I remember seeing Arc Euro demonstrate a CNC Mill with cutting fluid drip metered into an air tube the end of which was located next to the cutter. The air flow was sufficient to clear the chips from the cutter and the cutting oil was delivered along with said air flow in a sort of splutter. Not really a mist I know but I thought at the time it seemed like a fairly simple and usefull system.

regards Martin

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If it will fit in the lathe then you could grind a form tool and just use that on the edge of the hole. Much like this but with a bit more relief so it clears the inside of the hole

If it won't go on the lathe then mount on a rotary table and use a 2mm radius corner rounding milling cutter to whizz round the edge. one of these, infact you could also use that as your form tool in the lathe. If the holes are quiet small it may be easier to make a tool like that milling cutter of teh correct dia and just plung in with it like you would a standard countersink

 

J

Edited By JasonB on 08/02/2015 16:40:29

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

It looks like Ketan has been monitoring our conversations as I see he's just started stocking 0,02mm/m levels!

**LINK**

Neil

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

Andrew I bought a Sieg Super X3 from ArcEuro about 18 months ago. I found Ketan to be exceedingly helpful during the decision making process. He gave freely of his time to go through all aspects of the machine and his company's services.

I am very pleased with the machine and have not had a single problem with it at all. You must remember that it is a hobby mill of course, and is not as substantial as a Bridgeport. Having said that I use mine to make parts for classic motorcycles, and some parts for friends who have small company's and need something turned and /or milled usually at short notice. Much of my own parts are made in stainless and it copes well with this.

As Nick says the L denotes a longer than standard table, and assume that if you are buying a new machine that Ketan has some long tables in stock.

If you are close to Leicester then I would highly recommend that you visit Ketan and talk to him. HTH.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Hello Herman,

Welcome to the forum.

I believe the SX3 has taper gibs.

You could do worse than read through Arc Euro Trade's SX3 preparation guide.

Neil

[Gordon TarlingParticipant @gordontarling37126]

Brian, the lathe I'm looking at is this one – Chuck supplied is 125mm and I'll leave you to decide length of the bed. I've done a lot of reading about mini-mills and I'll probably be getting this one. I'll almost certainly get the MT3 spindle version, as I already have a set of ER32 collets and an MT3 chuck for them. I was looking at ARC Euro when I found SPG – similar tools at better prices.

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions, I'll post anew when I've made my purchase.

Gordon

[Gary WoodingParticipant @garywooding25363]

Thanks for the information guys,

I checked Chronos but, because there was a discrepancy on their site, I phoned and was told I'd be called back – but it never happened. In the end I purchased from Arc Euro.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Ian,
It looks like I guessed the wrong way which was the main winding. Here is the way I suggest connecting the switch.

The diagram of the back of the switch is with the lever moving horizontaly. The letters are just to tie up with the schematic. They will not tie up with any labeling that may be on the switch. (It does not matter if the switch is turned through 180 Deg. If you decide to use the 4 pole swtch from Arc Euro you could also switch the neutral to the main windin with the extra set of contacts.

Neil,
Well spotted. I would not have thought to look at Arc Euro's website for a switch of this type.

Les.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Mini-lathes use a multi-pole (4 pole) high-current centre off switch that would be ideal for this purpose.

Arc Euro sell them:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C2-Mini-Lathe-Spares

Neil

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

At the risk of being bias as many know I do do some work for ARC but I use one of these cheap gismo's.

**LINK**

Simple, quick, swaps easily between lathes and does the job.

I had one for the CVA I used to own and it was so complex to set up it was quicker to linish a ball on

This one does what it says on the tin.

[capnahabParticipant @capnahab]

I had a feeling Arceuro used to do them but can't find it now. These are from Beakbane and pretty good. I think they are a series of thin aluminium templates to fit over the bed, with black rubberised cotton sewn and glued and waterproofed. I never use coolant having seen what it does to the gearbox. Its a Hardinge.

I got the retracting toolholder in a job lot, so just trying it out. The Hardinge retracting topslide is good but not infallible. It retracts the tool at the same angle as the topslide (say 29 or 30), so if your run out channel is narrow at the end of the screwcut for whatever reason you run the risk of colliding with the shoulder of the last thread (am I making any sense?.)and you are betting to use the topslide dial. I wondered if the mulitifix retraction being 90° might be better. Haven't yet worked it out and I suppose it will depend on the situation. I have tested the accuracy of the retracting toolpost though and even after rotating it to a new position on the toolpost and back it is spot on.

If you want more details of the beakbane covers pm me.

Nick

[Andrew EntwistleParticipant @andrewentwistle]

I have used the M&W 200mm digital calipers and also a pair of the ArcEuroTrade Large Orange LCD Display calipers for over a year now at work with no sign of the battery in either flagging. The feel of both is also much closer to that of my Mitutoyo Absolute calipers than the Aldi/Lidl/eBay cheaper calipers.

Andrew.

[Tony RayParticipant @tonyray65007]

Brian,

Not directly, I have this version that shows x & Y on the same display

**LINK**.

When it works its OK but I have a lot of trouble with either axis freezing which requires power cycling and sometimes changing of batteries in the scales. Having paid ~£100 for the whole system I wish I had saved up for a 'real' system such as available for <£300 from e.g. Goodwin Technology or M-DRO. These systems have addtional features like PCD and are pretty much coolant proof whereas I had to fabricate my own protective guards from scratch.

Don't get me wrong I have no complaints about Arc Euro, it is well documented that the Chinese digital scales can have issues.

It will be interesting to see how others have got on with theirs.

Tony

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Hello all..

I am looking at adding a DRO onto my warco mill,

Thought maybe these

**LINK**

Has anyone any experience of them ?

Thanks

[Stephen BensonParticipant @stephenbenson75261]

When a "brand" is controlling the quality then Chinese goods are the best in the world when they work through distributors it seems to be very variable do ARC Euro trade still strip and rebuild their Chinese imports

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I did the same with my metalworker bench drill.. got two wedges… size JT2

**LINK**

& popped the original chuck off, replaced with keyless chuck, saves a lot of hassle looking for chuck key.

George

[John CParticipant @johnc47954]

Glad to hear it Maurice! I found using a ball bearing closing nut – obtainable from the usual suppliers on here – made tightening much easier.

Here is an example – make sure you get the correct size for your collets!

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collet-Nuts-Wrenches-and-Spanners

John

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

ER describes a standard type of Collet that is available all over the world so you would be able to ad morte collets to fit the same holder if you needed to in the future. They come in several size ranges such as ER 16, ER25, ER 32, etc and each of theose ranges has a set of different size capacities in 1mm steps. Size range shown here

Another option which was suggested in the other thread is MT collets also known as finger collets as these do not protrude from teh end of teh spindle like a drill chuck or collet holder you you would have gained about 75mm of height under the cutting tool and a bit more rigidity. MT collets here

 

J

Edited By JasonB on 22/01/2015 07:37:48

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Bob Brown 1 on 19/01/2015 18:59:48:

UK electricity supply is 230 V +10% -6%, Europe 230 Volt +6% -10%

240v was dropped a while back.

Totally agree with you Bob, with regards to what it should be. But sadly it is variable in the U.K., above the 230V +10% + dirty with spikes at times in places across the the land.

Ketan at ARC.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

One here or here?

If the OD is too great you should be able to turn it down on a mandrel using a carbide tip.

Neil

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

Jesse,

As Jason says, these collets will indeed maximise the headroom available. I forgot to say that.

Also, in case you don't know, Ketan owns Arc Euro Trade and is very helpful and knowledgeable indeed, way above any desire to sell you something, although obviously he would like to do just that. You won't regret talking to him.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw