The tailstock is 2MT, as is the headstock. I think what sort of tools is very much a personal preference, I always use HSS. There's been loads of arguments for and against in this forum! But if funds will run to it, I'd get a quick change toolholder, it saves loads of time packing up tools to the right height.

Hope you enjoy your ML7. I wouldn't part with mine for any money!

Phil

Agree with the others – most important/useful accessory is QC toolpost for exact centre height every time and quick interchangeable tool types. I got a cheaper type rather than the Myford-Dickson which I thought at the time was too expensive. I am very happy with my purchase many years ago but I sometimes wonder whether its yet again get what you pay for and the M-D version might have been a bit more rigid.

Probably 2nd item if not already got one, is a tailstock drill chuck. Then go on to collect 3 and 4 jaw chucks and a fixed steady for long bars to be machined. Oh! and a leadscrew handle.

Good luck and hope you enjoy many happy hours with lathe.

Like John, I have one of the cheaper ones, and it's perfectly adequate. All the usual suspects sell them, RDG, Chronos etc. But be aware, you'll need a lot more toolholders than is supplied with it!

I'd forgotten the leadscrew handle, absolutely indispensable. It's a handwheel that goes on the end of the leadscrew and allows you to advance the saddle by a known amount, they're marked in thou's, assuming an imperial lathe. I don't know how they mark the metric ones.

If you go for the Dickson toolpost/toolholders* sized for the 7 series (I believe it is called S00) then 8 mm tools are the correct size to use. Always use the thickest tool you can to reduce flexing; this will be limited by the toolholder and the lathe's centre height, or in the case of a boring tool by the size of the hole.

*…and I would recommend them; I have about 25 holders collected over many years, and have always found them completely reliable.

David

Yep

The interface between the tool holder and the tool post is essentially a dovetail, or maybe more correctly a series of dovetails, which allow the holder to move up and down on the toolpost.The holder is locked in place by tightening a ( removeable) box spanner on the hexagon head next to the toolpost clamp (on the right) which pulls the two items closely together. With this freed and the top socket screw on the toolholder loosened, the height of the tool holder can be set by moving the knurled knob in the appropriate direction. Once done the hexagon is tightened and the setscrew on the tool holder also tightened thus locking the position of the knurled nut. When the time comes to change tools simply undo the hex nut , remove that tool and holder and replace with the next tool. Do up the hex nut and continue.

It takes a little while to set up all your tools and holders but once done it increases productivity no end! Oh by the way you can never have enough holders – at the last count I think I had 16 – in one of these I keep a clock guage – very useful when setting work in the Grip-Tru or 4-jaw.

Regards

Norman

Hi petro1head,

As Phil said above you can buy a QCTP from any of the online suppliers such as RDG, Chronos, Warco (ad in the RH column on this page), Axminster Power Tools etc. etc. There are several good tool suppliers if you Google them.

These suppliers also sell sets of pre ground HSS tools which gets you started without having to grind your own initially. you will need a small grinder (Machine Mart) and a diamond slipstone to touch the tools up and keep keep them sharp. There is a lot of information on the internet about lathe tool shapes and keeping them in good order, just do a bit of research there.

Here are a couple of pictures, one of a 'Dickson' type toolpost but there are other types to consider. It may be worth visiting one of the suppliers on an 'open day' such as Chester (Google) or Warco, or visit a local Model Engineering club (see internet or Directory for a local one) where you can get hands on and advice. Also the one pictured has the capacity for two tool holders at the same time so you can swing a second tool into place easily, some only have capacity for one at a time which means changing the holder more often and is less convenient in my opinion but others may disagree.

The second picture is of a centre height gauge from a George H Thomas design – his book is also very good and is usually available from local libraries (if not they will get it for you). It is called "The Model Engineers Manual" and makes a good read.

Learning to use a lathe and exploit all it's possibilities is a long but rewarding journey.  It is the machine that made the industrial revolution and the world as we know it – enjoy the trip and welcome to our world

By the way a real name rather than a 'handle' would be nice.

Quick Change ToolPost (QCTP)

'George Thomas' Height Gauge

Best Regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 16/03/2012 07:44:43

Before you go how about this tool setting gauge. It has two leds the blue one shows it is sitting down flat on the lathe bed , the other shows the tool is at the right height

Hi Peter

Not Malcolm here!

As Terry surmises, the handle on top is home made to avoid the need to find a spanner each time. A quick item to make and if you make a thick washer a shown it is easy to take a bit off the thickness of this until the handle lies in the best position when tightened. You don't really need the knob but it is a bit more comfortable (and aesthetically more pleasing!) – I think I have a thing about black plastic knobs! Yes there is a Yahoo Myford group good info but not very user friendly in that each reply to a post also lists all the other replies!

Here are a couple of photos of the toolpost and some toolholders.

Note.  –  You can click on the images to get a closer view

Regards

Norman

Edited By NJH on 16/03/2012 11:00:01

Edited By NJH on 16/03/2012 11:02:07