Tooling for Centec2 mill

[Keith Rogers 2Participant @keithrogers2]

One advantage I found when I had my 2B was if I had a job that was too tall to

go under the vertical head I could lay it flat and use an end mill or fly cutter in the

horizontal spindle. Effectively giving me the capacity of a much bigger machine.

Keith

[sean logieParticipant @seanlogie69385]

Thanks Jason and Keith … can beat a good bit of encouragement advice boy I need it

Sean

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Yes you can use them on quite large items, like this chap on TT the only limit is your imagination. One mill driving an extended spindle with home made support and a second mill holding the work

[sean logieParticipant @seanlogie69385]

Posted by JasonB on 15/07/2017 16:10:09:

Yes you can use them on quite large items, like this chap on TT the only limit is your imagination. One mill driving an extended spindle with home made support and a second mill holding the work

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Yes, I will retract some of my previous post. I'm only a learner with the mill. Certainly not an engineer like some on the forum.

Not knocking you at all. Discussion helps us all. And if it gets a response from JB, that is good.

(para)Certainly better than milling on a lathe. What I was thinking is that you got it for a song, so a vertical head would be a great addition. Certainly worth saving up for. All the good bits are expensive, these days. Cheap chinese is cheap for a reason.

(para) I would be hunting around for a vertical head – they can be expensive, but don't eat anything and, as far as I can see, will hold their value – as they ain't making them any longer.

(para) I reckon a good Centec is likely better value than a modeller's

chinese vertical mill, and with the extra opportunity to mill horizontally. My Raglan is used for smaller items and when the other mill is set up for something else (but the power feed on the Centec makes a big difference, too). Looking at reports, many Centecs are only used vertically – a wasted opportunity, as the horizontal arbor is so much more rigid, being supported at both ends.

You can bet that Rod gets flatter finishes than one would easily with a flycutter, which needs perfect tram, or several passes with a small milling cutter.

[Paul White 3Participant @paulwhite3]

Hi Sean, Don't be discouraged by adverse comment. I am a centec nut and would promote the brand

The lack of a vertical head did not stop me making 2 steam loco's both 3.5 gauge on a centec model pre the series 2.

The use of morse taper holders in the horizontal arbor hole was my starting point. I found the application of a hammer to release the taper distressful and made the holders with a threaded nose, with a nut to draw the collet out when changing the cutter, I would fully recommend this design.

A centec 2 obtained some years latter inherited the collets that are used in the horizontal arbor and a vertical head I made some time later. You do not need to starve to save money for buying the centec Vertical head.

I have taken some photo's that may help you but am having problems loading them. Have fun with the centec.

Paul

[sean logieParticipant @seanlogie69385]

Decided to make a another arbor for the Centec2 today ,nearly done just to machine the mt2 taper . The left hand thread turned out really sweet ,the old Fortis did me proud she was taking some very big cuts today . Another question I'm going to ask ,should I harden the arbor ?. will the heating process warp it at all ?

Thanks for looking

Sean

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Heat treatment always has the risk of warpage, however slight. Usually finish-machining of some description is carried out afterwards, but not always of course. Final hardness, after tempering, does not necessarily preclude further turning but usually surface grinding is the way to finish a precision piece? But what pecision is required for the job in hand?

I reckon a morse taper would be better hardened as any small dings in the future can affect its seating accuracy. But if you are easily able to cut a morse taper there is no real problem to make another if it gets damaged at all. I have found that getting a good contact area, along the length of the taper, is challenging for a non-expert such as me (but, there again, some tapers only need to have good contact at each end, the middle section being relieved).

So, my extra arbor for my Centec was made using a bought-in hardened morse taper with soft blank end.

[sean logieParticipant @seanlogie69385]

Have painted and assembled the Centec 2 ,also started to make another arbor .

https://www.flickr.com/photos/99483750@N08/shares/U010R0

Sean

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Hi Sean You can get an arbour Tufftride hardened which us similar to case hardening but at a lower temp and dosnt distort. You need to check that the material is compatable. Call your local heat treatment supplier for information.

David

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