Search Results for 'arc euro'

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

When I wanted a bit more ease of operation, I went directly to Arc Euro Trade. Unfortunately (afaIk) they only do digis up to 100mm.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Arceurotrade have some useful information Here

HTH,

Rod

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

I have a model 222 wedge quick change tool post from ARC Here

I currently use 12mm turning tools. The quick change tool holders take up to 16.5mm tools. I need some new tools and was wondering if i am better off buying 16mm instead of 12mm.

I believe the indexable tips are the same size for 12 and 16mm tools

The lathe i use is a Warco WM290

Edited By petro1head on 27/08/2023 12:31:54

[DiogenesIIParticipant @diogenesii]

Have you searched for 'R8 1" stub arbor'

..Arc Eurotrade..

..there's also an Arrand on Ebay right now…

You don't need a key for slitting saws, the rotation of the cutter is contrari-wise to the holding thread, so that it tightens itself.. ..life would be so much cheaper if only they did slip..

[jon manParticipant @jonman64714]

Is it a 4k7 potentiometer, arc sell spares for sieg lathes that should fit the clarke.

**LINK**

[Chris Edwards 1Participant @chrisedwards1]

Posted by Nick Clarke 3 on 22/08/2023 07:40:50:

I bought the Seig SX!L mill from ArcEuro (now superceded) because it was all I had room for and within its limits it has done good work, but there are definite limits to a mill that is a bit small – far more so in my opinion, than with a small lathe which can often be made to punch far above its weight if necessary. However I have access to larger machines in the club workshop so this has only ever been a matter of convenience.

The main point to remember though is that while a lathe can do work with a single tool and perhaps a drill chuck a mill will need cutters, a machine vice, possibly clamps and the list of accessories does go on – none of which are supplied as standard while the lathe does often come with at least a chuck.

Thanks Nick.

While this is my first time venturing into milling I do own and operate quick a varied array of other machines and have budgeted for accessories.

Cheers, Chris.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I would use the insert holder that you have but get one of the inserts intended for Aluminium and other non ferrous metals Yours looks like a CCGT 060202 or 060204 would suit. The CCMT that you have can be a bit blunt even when new due to how they are made

The HSs one just wants the end rubbing on a Diamond slip to sharpen it up a bit but I'm not keen on those preground ones with the chip breaker groove

The pip (but sticking out) in the middle of the faced part is a good indicator that you are not on ctr height

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hello Philip,

I think you maybe looking for a Drawn Cup Needle Roller Clutch Bearing (DCNRCB): RC02, which has a 1/8" bore (after compression).

If you do a google search, you will find it. Try to get from known U.K. or American suppliers.

ARC stopped selling it as it is getting rare and expensive in U.K./Europe.

If you can design your lubricator box incorporating a 3mm shaft, then consider the link suggested by Speedy**, or similar for an HF0306, which will give you a 3mm bore (after compression)

These bearings function in a similar way to Sprag Clutch, but they are different in the way they are made, and have a smaller overall dimensional profile than a sprag. RS Components incorrectly refer to HF0306 as a sprag clutch.

"After Compression bore of 1/8" or 3mm : DCNRCB have plate outside body. It gets support from its housing, so the bearing before fitting will be loose in the bore dimension. The outside diameter/hole in the housing needs to be made slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing. Then make and use a top hat type mandrel with 1/8" shaft or 3mm shaft depending on which bearing you get and press fit the bearing into the housing. the bearing should be pressed from the side which have the bearing number stated, as that side of the outside plate is hardened. When you press the bearing in, the plate will compress (for want of word), allowing the needles of the bearing to come into correct contact with the shaft of the mandrel.

I used to hear of bearing slipping and failing to function properly. This was always as a result of poor understanding of how to fit this type of bearing, rather than the bearing itself.

Good luck.

Ketan at ARC

** Edit: I have not had any experience of the Chinese version of HF0306 for 3mm – so uncertain of its failure rate. Original HF0306 would be INA/FAG – Germany. RC02 original 1/8"- Torrington or its current owners KOYO only. 

Edited By Ketan Swali on 22/08/2023 16:46:42

Edited By Ketan Swali on 22/08/2023 16:48:05

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

Arc euro or your local bearing supplier

[Graham StoppaniParticipant @grahamstoppani46499]

Posted by Martin Connelly on 13/08/2023 08:52:52:

You can always stick a square collet block into a 4 jaw chuck and dial in the required concentricity. Arc Eurotrade sell all sizes with and without nuts and all have a through hole. I would make a setting bar with an accurate centre drilled in one end to ensure the positioning of the block is along the spindle axis.

Martin C

I've just done this for a job where I had to face, drill and tap 90 aluminium rods each end and can confirm it worked a treat.

Graham

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

I bought the Seig SX!L mill from ArcEuro (now superceded) because it was all I had room for and within its limits it has done good work, but there are definite limits to a mill that is a bit small – far more so in my opinion, than with a small lathe which can often be made to punch far above its weight if necessary. However I have access to larger machines in the club workshop so this has only ever been a matter of convenience.

The main point to remember though is that while a lathe can do work with a single tool and perhaps a drill chuck a mill will need cutters, a machine vice, possibly clamps and the list of accessories does go on – none of which are supplied as standard while the lathe does often come with at least a chuck.

[Kiwi BlokeParticipant @kiwibloke62605]

Mike, sorry to hear of your difficulties. Are you 'missing something glaringly obvious?' Well, I can't tell, but you've left the door open for folk to risk insulting you with the basics…

it's nothing like as easy to set a boring bar's position with respect to the work as it is to set a lathe tool for external cutting. For a start, it's difficult to see what you're doing. A major risk is that there's interference between the bore and the bottom of the tool tip – obviously worse as the bore diameter decreases. We always try to stuff our thickest bar into the workpiece, so that's increasing the risk. It's often necessary to gain clearance by setting the tool at what looks like a horrible negative rake. Raising the point of contact so that it's a tad above centre height is also a good idea. I find it much harder to set a tool correctly in a boring head, but the geometry is the same.

I recently bored several bits of an unfriendly stainless steel (dunno what exactly) using an Emco Compact 5 and Arc Euro's no-name **MT and **GT inserts. Bore dimensions similar to your job. To be honest, I didn't expect much from such low-priced inserts, of unknown provenance, and used them as an experiment, reasoning that there wasn't much to be lost. They did the job splendidly! The Compact 5 is not the world's most rigid lathe, but the resulting bird's nests of stringy swarf were witness to the fairly serious cuts and feeds used (sorry, I can't quote any figures…). I can only think that success was due to the lathe being in good condition, and the careful setting of the tools.

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

I've just posted a similar comment before I spotted yours.

Carefully searching by the reference in the ad opens a web-site which reveals despite the pretence at being a London-based firm (lending in Euros?), it is based in India.

[Mike HurleyParticipant @mikehurley60381]

Just received my new blade from ARC Euro * with a GTN2 insert ; was planning to (when ever I get round to it ) make a rear toolpost for it so hopefully avoiding all the parting-off horrors I've experienced over the years. Believe me I've tried every bit of advice from you good folk on the forum over the years and still could never get a decent job / often getting jams etc with HSS blades.

Just tried the new toy on the ordinary 4 way, made sure everything was locked tight as practical, lowest gear so about 80 – 100 rpm and working on a 2in dia MS bar.

Joy! With consistent manual feed (fairly heavy) went in like the proverbial knife through butter. Brilliant!

Don't now feel a rear toolpost will be necessary for the standard type of materials I use anyway.

Regards Mike

* Other suppliers stock similar models

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

We are fortunate to have good, trusted suppliers, like Arc Euro, Tracy JB, etc

They go the extra mile for their customers, to ensure that the end user gets what they want, or their problem solved.

They are a pleasure to deal with, and contrast to what is shown on the consumer progtrammes on TV.

Howard

[magpieParticipant @magpie]

I have nothing but praise for Arc Euro. I have been dealing with them for very many years. Long before i knew about the internet I was buying stuff from the shows, and since they stopped doing the shows, via the internet. Not once in all that time have i had cause to complain. Just a happy customer.

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Having just watched the BBCs programme, "Rip off Britain " about the internet rogues, how nice to be able to rely on some excellent trusted traders like Arceuro. I ordered something either late last Saturday or sometime Sunday and the packet was on the doormat today, Tuesday when I arrived home. The speed of delivery is incredible but it's also dependent upon Royal Mail who are very good as well.

John

Edited By DMB on 15/08/2023 19:45:50

[Peter Howell 1Participant @peterhowell1]

Thanks Guys.

I've bought from ArcEurotrade before. I like the idea of the backplate type appreciate comments about direct screw on ones.

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

ER holders are available to screw directly on to the Myford spindle nose. Try looking on Arc Euro, Chronos and new Myford / RDG websites, they should be available in ER 25 and ER 32 sizes.

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

Arc euro do a separate chuck and backplate, I used their chuck and a D1-3 adaptor from another supplier ( Arc don't supply D1-3) for my current lathe and very pleased with it. They sell a pre machined Myford backplate so an easy adaption. Previously when I had an ML7-R I bought a one piece ER32 chuck from RDG to screw straight on the spindle thread, this was so far out in terms of concentricity and alignment it had to be returned and I purchased separate chuck and backplate from Arc which after some simple machining of the backplate register was as accurate as I need to be.

Edit John is a much faster typer!

Edited By Dave Wootton on 15/08/2023 12:38:30

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Look at Arc Eurotrade for ER collet chucks and backplates. You'll have to turn the latter to fit your chuck.

Don't even think about the MT2 type for use in the lathe – too much overhang and you loose the ability to put material through the bore.

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

You can always stick a square collet block into a 4 jaw chuck and dial in the required concentricity. Arc Eurotrade sell all sizes with and without nuts and all have a through hole. I would make a setting bar with an accurate centre drilled in one end to ensure the positioning of the block is along the spindle axis.

Martin C

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Hugh at Amadeal ought to be able to tell you what is the correct fuse, and supply replacements.

If not, talk to Ian at Arc Euro, to see if they can supply the correct fuse.

Give him full details of the lathe, so that he will be able to find the right part.

But if the correct fuses blow something is wrong, or you are asking too much of the machine.

Remember it has a relatively low powered motor, in a hobby machine, and running at low speed means little air flow to cool the motor. Hopefully, you have not already done damage.

What speed?

What depth of cut?

What feed rate?

Howard

[David-Clark 1Participant @david-clark1]

I have a friend on Messenger that I am helping to build a Stuart 10V.

He asks me what he should do if he is not sure. I reply back to the best of my ability and he gets on and does it.

he is not an engineer but his trade is as a Goldsmith so he is used to working with metal but not much machining.

He has a milling machine and C4 lathe from Ketan at Arc Euro Trade and is very happy with the quality and service he has had.

He has mucked up the odd part but is making great progress and the engine is well advanced.

“Our” next project will probably be a Stuart Victoria, the main thing governing this is the C4 is large enough to machine the flywheel comfortably.

So, to the first major problem he is having.

He purchased his taps and dies from RDG Tools.

he has tapped quite a few holes with no problems including the small ba sizes.

When he tried threading a 5/16” x 32 tpi bit of brass, the die removed most of the the thread. He is using a proper sliding tailstock die holder. He tried reversing the die in the holder and cut a fairly decent thread but the thread was crap at the back end and was ripped off.

RDG replaced the die and the same thing happened again.

I am wondering if two dies are likely to be faulty or if it is something he is doing?

I can’t think what would cause this. We have tried leaving the thread portion long which helps but sooner or later, the thread rips off.

I would add that the friend has used the die holder before to cut metric threads in stainless steel and titanium.

So, is it because it’s brass or is it the die?

To be fair, RDG is taking all of his taps and dies back and giving a full refund.

He is going to Tracy Tools at my suggestion.