damaged cam lever – weld or remake?

damaged cam lever – weld or remake?

Home Forums General Questions damaged cam lever – weld or remake?

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  • #23551
    Thomas Gude
    Participant
      @thomasgude37285

      (for a S7 clutch)

      #167561
      Thomas Gude
      Participant
        @thomasgude37285

        Hello again.

        I noticed that the cam disengagement lever for my S7 mkII clutch would slip back to engaged if turning the chuck by hand which could result in horrible consequences.

        So I disassembled the unit and found that the steel ball at the end of the push rod had gouged a nice groove into the cam shaft (picture below) meaning the cam can rotate back to engaged fairly easily.

        As far as I can see I have three options:

        A. Purchase a new one from Myford for £29 (probably not going to happen)

        B. Remake the part – easy enough and I've just finished my Bedair style radius turner so it would be a good excuse to use this in anger for the nose. Question is – would I need to harden (temper) the part after? I've never had to harden anything before – how would I do this?

        C. Get a mate to weld a bead onto the damaged area and grind/machine back to flat. I don't want to do this if it results in soft material however. How hard is a weld?

        Any comments are greatly appreciated.

        edit: If you're wondering how it got like this it turns out the little piece that is meant to house a small spring and the steel ball was the wrong way round, with the steel ball just stuck on the end with some grease – meaning the ball had no-where to hide when a force was acting upon it…  I am now wondering whether, if I re-arrange the parts as they should, it even needs repair….

         

        Edited By Thomas Gude on 24/10/2014 12:09:26

        Edited By Thomas Gude on 24/10/2014 12:09:46

        #167569
        Brian Wood
        Participant
          @brianwood45127

          Hello Thomas,

          A quick fix. File the damage smooth, drill and tap a new hole 180 degrees round for the handle and rebuild it. A John Stephenson approach from the Bodger's Lodge!

          I doubt the existing shaft is hard, your filing will confirm that. Welding should not induce hardness, heat affected zone cracking then becomes a problem, certainly if forced cooling is used

          Regards

          Brian

          #168016
          Thomas Gude
          Participant
            @thomasgude37285

            Genius! Thanks Brian I will give that a go. Least damage.

            In fact re-orientating the spring and ball to the correct way round makes it much better in itself. So will see how it goes.

            Thanks

            #168037
            Brian Wood
            Participant
              @brianwood45127

              Hello again Thomas,

              I must admit, I have no idea if there is a square on the hidden side; I for one would like to know if my idea does work in practice.

              Feedback please or brickbat, whichever applies!

              Regards Brian

              #168043
              Neil Wyatt
              Moderator
                @neilwyatt

                You could drill a blind hole in the damaged area and make a force fit pin (back up with a bit of loctite) and then file it flush.

                Neil

                #168062
                Michael Gilligan
                Participant
                  @michaelgilligan61133
                  Posted by Neil Wyatt on 28/10/2014 18:39:24:

                  You could drill a blind hole in the damaged area and make a force fit pin (back up with a bit of loctite) and then file it flush.

                  .

                  … alternatively; mill down all four faces and fit a sleeve of square steel tube [?]

                  … assuming the cam is a square, as per Brian's question.

                  MichaelG.

                  #168071
                  Jeff Dayman
                  Participant
                    @jeffdayman43397

                    If you did want to do a welded repair, if it is welded with normal mild steel filler rod/ electrode with a stick welder. MIG or TIG welder, or oxyacetylene, the part and the weld will likely remain as soft as mild steel. If a harder surface than mild steel is required you could try carburizing powders. I use one called Quickhard from Harris Welding Products in USA, with an O-A torch. These powders work well and if used per directions will result in a case up to .010" deep that is too hard to scratch with a file.

                    One note of caution – if the bar is leaded free machining steel neither the weld or the Quickhard powders will work.

                    Good luck. JD

                    #168084
                    Les Jones 1
                    Participant
                      @lesjones1

                      Hi Thomas,
                      If it was mine I would saw off the bottom part from the part that the lever screws into. I would then drill / bore the top part to the largest diameter of the part that you have just cut off. I would then make a new bottom part from a high tensile bolt or silver steel and loctite it into the top part. I did this when making a tailstock camlock for my lathe to save wasteing large diameter bar and it allowed me to make the cam part from an old high tensile bolt which was harder than mild steel.

                      Les.

                      #168439
                      Thomas Gude
                      Participant
                        @thomasgude37285

                        All good suggestions. I will report back. Unfortunately I have come across another problem as you when you start taking things aparrt and looking at them. the LH cuntershaft oilite bush is getting very hot and I can't for the life of me figure out why. I'm off to post a new topic in the hope I don't become a loner with my incessant S7 problems.

                        Cheers

                        #168456
                        Ian S C
                        Participant
                          @iansc

                          Thomas, maybe someone has used grease, and bunged up the Oilite bush, it may need washing out and recharging with oil.

                          Ian S C

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