UPVC Door Frame Advice on Modification

[Andy_HParticipant @andy_h]

I recently acquired FoC a UPVC door, frame and glazed side panel, with the intention of installing in my garage as part of plan to make my workshop space lighter and less drafty.

Although I have the glazing units for the side panel the problem is the four side glazing beads are missing and it does not look like I’ll be able to find a replacement.

 

As the beads will be fitted internally, and only in a garage workshop, cosmetic appearance is not of prime importance so I am currently thinking about making some painted wood bead that will fit snugly with silicone sealant. That’s one option.

The other option I’m considering is using just the door and fitting a separate window next to it.

So to the advice I’m looking for….

I’ve worked out the main “welded” frame is the four outside parts. The central door jamb is inserted between the top and bottom rail and secured with screws. Likewise, the horizontal bar containing the letter box is screwed between the door jamb and the outer right rail. Could I “safely” remove (that is cut off) that right hand panel section at the point indicated by the red arrows? Here, when I say “safely” I mean without effecting the overall integrity of what’s left as a door frame. The whole thing would be installed surrounded by (and screwed to) a CLS timber frame.

Andy

[Graham MeekParticipant @grahammeek88282]

There are quite a few companies dealing exclusively in UPVC Window Beads. Most of them have a chart to cross reference against.

I have replaced window beads in this way before, hope this helps,

Regards

Gray,

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Just blank off the bottom section – you will soon have ‘stuff’ there, aka essential tooling.

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Try here for beading.

 

WindowBeads.com
Unit 4A
Harpings Rd
Hull
East Yorkshire
HU5 4JF

David

[David George 1]

On David George 1 Said:

Try here for beading.

 

WindowBeads.com
Unit 4A
Harpings Rd
Hull
East Yorkshire
HU5 4JF

David

Thanks David. I have already contacted them and the reply was mine is a bead tgay have never seen and so can help.

Some of the short bits I have are stamped on the back which tells me the bead was produced by Plastmo in 2002. Thanks to a few more hours of Google searching I discovered Plastmo were taken over by (I think) euro cell and someone managed to get some old stock of this bead from them – but that was over 10 years ago.

So that’s why I concluded I’m not going to be able to buy replacement beading

Andy

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

A quick search shows that they closed the window and door extrusion side of things in 2003. Usually there is a beading(Seal) that will be close enough to work , a matter of finding someone that has it in stock.

Cutting the end panel section off, is only going to expose the inner extrusion and then cause rusting of the metal inserts in  the extrusion. Becomes more of a problem.  Better to put some kind of panel in place, NOT wood and seal it with a window sealant. What used to be called fibrous cement board comes to mind, painted before installation.

To replace the rail inserts if missing, can be made from the same wood as good window sashes, and painted and be silicon glued into place. Just clean the area with ipa or similar and give it a light clean with a red or grey scotchbrite pad in the area to be glued, to remove the oxide or weathered film from the moulding before gluing.

Older style joinery is always a challenge.

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

I would use polyurethane sealant NOT SILICON.

Russell

[Russell Eberhardt]

On Russell Eberhardt Said:

I would use polyurethane sealant NOT SILICON.

Russell

I wasn’t aware of that – thanks for the advice

Andy

[Neil Lickfold]

On Neil Lickfold Said:

A quick search shows that they closed the window and door extrusion side of things in 2003. Usually there is a beading(Seal) that will be close enough to work , a matter of finding someone that has it in stock.

Cutting the end panel section off, is only going to expose the inner extrusion and then cause rusting of the metal inserts in  the extrusion. Becomes more of a problem.  Better to put some kind of panel in place, NOT wood and seal it with a window sealant. What used to be called fibrous cement board comes to mind, painted before installation.

To replace the rail inserts if missing, can be made from the same wood as good window sashes, and painted and be silicon glued into place. Just clean the area with ipa or similar and give it a light clean with a red or grey scotchbrite pad in the area to be glued, to remove the oxide or weathered film from the moulding before gluing.

Older style joinery is always a challenge.

Thanks. our reply has at leas convinced me not to go down the route of cutting off the end panel section.

Perhaps my original post wasn’t clear. I wasn’t thinking about removing this section because I don’t want those windows – I very much do as part of getting more natural light in. I was only thinking of removing it (and installing a a separate window instead) simply because I’ve been unable to locate replacement glazing beading. But, although hours of google searching have still failed to lead me anywhere I’ve contacted a couple of local upvc suppliers to see if they can provide a suitable bead (long shot I think) if now I’ll stick with the original idea of fabricating something in wood.

Andy

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

You could go and get a double glaze  envelope and put them in place with window sealant. Being as it goes to the ground, I would get them in safety glass. It’s not that much more expensive than the regular glass used in the double glaze envelopes and if it breaks for what ever reason, is a lot easier to clean up as well.

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

Could you buy the nearest style bead from window beads and modify it to fit? (With sealant)

 

[MacolmParticipant @macolm]

Any security requirements? Ordinary (annealed) glass is hazardous when broken. Toughened breaks into granuler pieces, safe, but poor security. Laminated glass is probably best for security, and less hazardous then annealed. All are available as double glazed units.

[Neil Lickfold]

On Neil Lickfold Said:

You could go and get a double glaze  envelope and put them in place with window sealant. Being as it goes to the ground, I would get them in safety glass. It’s not that much more expensive than the regular glass used in the double glaze envelopes and if it breaks for what ever reason, is a lot easier to clean up as well.

Hi

As per my original post I already have the glazing units 😉

>>Although I have the glazing units for the side panel…..

Andy

[Author]

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