Nightmare removing 3 jaw chuck

[Mark Salzedo 1Participant @marksalzedo1]

I hadn't realised this thread was still running. So fast forwards three years. I did take the original lathe (as described in 2014) back to the supplier who pretty much refunded me the cost of the lathe. With this cash in hand, I then proceeded off to Warco in April 2014 (near where I live) and bought a WM 180. Nice machine. Still hadn't much time to use it, so the Christmas before last (2015), I thought I might have the time to do some turning between centres. You've guessed it… the 3 jaw chuck was difficult to remove again but I did manage to do so without injuring myself and it wasn't as difficult as the original lathe. Fitting the face plate though was impossible, it just wouldn't fit. I contacted Warco and they replaced it with the correct faceplate to their credit. Thank you to all who have given good advice.

Andrew, from my limited experience, I would think very carefully before attempting 'modifications' to your lathe. In the first instance, I would suggest you contact the supplier and see what they can do. As you have only had the lathe six weeks you are in a much better position than I was. If they are a reputable company, they will help you to resolve the problem. Of course, and I am not a solicitor, you do have recourse under the 'Sale of Goods Act', not 'fit for purpose', but hopefully you won't need to go down that route. Let us know how you get on.

[Andrew DolinskiParticipant @andrewdolinski29852]

Thank you for the advice. I'm new to using lathes and having spent six weeks reading and reading, I decided today to 'have a go' at stripping the lathe to give it a good clean. This is when I hit upon how difficult it was to remove the chuck. The backplate protrusion is 55.07mm and the chuck recess is 55mm. I will heed everyone's warning and will contact the supplier for advice. They are very reputable. Mark, I'll let you know how I get on. (I have also sent you a direct message with extra information).

 

Edited By Andrew Dolinski on 01/03/2017 22:12:51

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

I had the same problem in removing the 3 jaw chuck from a new WM180 – after levering it off with a drift against the nuts a friend suggested I lightly polish the edge of the spigot and then replace the chuck (and “rinse + repeat” a couple of times) – seems to have worked for me but I still need to place a thin metal piece between nut and headstock and then work round the nuts using them to lever the chuck off

[HowiParticipant @howi]

Posted by Frances IoM on 01/03/2017 22:37:28:
I had the same problem in removing the 3 jaw chuck from a new WM180 – after levering it off with a drift against the nuts a friend suggested I lightly polish the edge of the spigot and then replace the chuck (and "rinse + repeat" a couple of times) – seems to have worked for me but I still need to place a thin metal piece between nut and headstock and then work round the nuts using them to lever the chuck off

I have always thought that was normal!

How tight a fit should the chuck be?

[Andrew DolinskiParticipant @andrewdolinski29852]

I like the recommendation by Francis IoM should I have no luck with the supplier. Using the chuck or the spare face plate with some polish/lapping compound could well reduce the over tight fit. However as Howi has asked how tight should the fit be? Mine surely is too tight.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

I doubt this is a fault.

The chuck on my mini-lathe was very tight on the register when the lathe was new but it got much better after the chuck had been on and off several times.

The manual that came with my WM280 mentions that the chuck will be tight on a new lathe. Again normal swapping between the 3 and 4 jaw chucks soon cured the problem. At first, I had to use the 'jacking off' trick: but not for long.

When removing the chuck you have to be careful to push it off the register evenly. The chuck is liable to wedge if one side moves out faster than the other, and it may be necessary to tap the chuck back with a rubber mallet to straighten it before trying again.

'Wearing in' the register as described made no difference to the run-out on either my mini-lathe or the 280.

I suppose the degree of tightness between lathes will vary within manufacturing tolerances. Some could be noticeably tighter than others.

Dave

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

Hi everyone,

Nice to know that I am not the only one whose chuck gets locked on.Mine often does and I no longer use the back gear to lock the spindle,I lost too many teeth that way.Now,I just clamp a piece of hard wood in the chuck and give it a whack with a lump hammer [the wood,that is,not the chuck! ] Most times it works [mine is a screw on chuck ]

Talking about backup from suppliers !!!! tell me about them !.Once they sell you something,you,re on your own.

If you have a problem later on,you will be told "Sorry,we no longer stock that machine/item/part,or whatever. I,ve been there,had that from some of the biggest suppliers in Model Engineer.,who shall be nameless.

While I,m on my soapbox,does anyone know where I can get a gauge for grinding tool bits for Acme threads ? I know they can be had from America for about 9 dollars but they want 35 dollars extra to post one on. No kidding.,Seems a lot of money for a little bit of tin plate.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by larry Phelan on 03/03/2017 13:31:13:

… does anyone know where I can get a gauge for grinding tool bits for Acme threads ? I know they can be had from America for about 9 dollars but they want 35 dollars extra to post one on. No kidding.,Seems a lot of money for a little bit of tin plate.

.

Before spending $44, I would see what I could do with the piercing saw and a file.

MichaelG.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Posted by larry Phelan on 03/03/2017 13:31:13:

While I,m on my soapbox,does anyone know where I can get a gauge for grinding tool bits for Acme threads ? I know they can be had from America for about 9 dollars but they want 35 dollars extra to post one on. No kidding.,Seems a lot of money for a little bit of tin plate.

How about this .

HTH,

Rod

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

That seems pretty fair, Rod

MichaelG.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Or significantly cheaper from Chronos

Or even cheaper from Proops.

'screw cutting gauge' is the search you need.

Or you want push, you could go for the M&W version from Myford or from Machine DRO

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 03/03/2017 18:06:58

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

It would be interesting to compare the quality of these items, Neil

The two M&W ones are, hopefully, near-identical … but the others appear to vary.

… How about doing an impartial review in MEW ?

MichaelG.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 03/03/2017 18:16:43:

It would be interesting to compare the quality of these items, Neil

The two M&W ones are, hopefully, near-identical … but the others appear to vary.

… How about doing an impartial review in MEW ?

As I'm sure you would expect the Editor of MEW has both M&W and economy versions in his 'toolroom'.

A detailed comparative review will appear in MEW 253. Enough to say there are several differences and each has aspects that are better than the other. But which is the better? The only way to find out will be to wait for MEW 253

Neil

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

^^^

Well done, Sir

MichaelG.

[egaParticipant @ega]

I bought an M&W no 200 from a reputable supplier many years ago and recall sending it back for a replacement on the ground that the stamped markings on this far from cheap item were askew.

I note that on this combination gauge you get female vees for all but the acme angle. The Starrett acme "gage" does provide a vee together with pitch gauges and the useful information that the depth of thread is half the pitch + 0.010".

I have never seen much point in the male vee that some gauges feature; any ideas?

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