Search Results for 'arc euro'

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

I’ve missed the boat! With all this looking into which milling machine I want to buy and deciding on the X3/Imperial/R8 spindle, now that I contact ArcEuro, they’ve sold all the Sieg X3/Imperial/R8 spindle they have and the next order will be in late January/early February. Dash, no treat for Christmas! ” src=”http://s2.images.proboards.com/sad.gif”>
However, my route to get here has been Sieg X2 –> Amadeal? –> Chester Eagle 25 –> Sieg X3/Imperial/R8 spindle. So I suppose the not dashing at the first start will mean that what I get is the best option for me. It also means I can fix the new electrics for the mill and sort out the dolls house for my daughter’s Christmas present. Look at the good side of a poor do (sadly, the price in the new year will go back up again and no freebies, but I’ll have to turn a blind eye to that!)
Many thanks for the interest
Dave

[Anonymous]

I bought a couple of indexable insert boring bars from RDG via Ebay a few years ago. They were made by Glanze (Indian origin). The boring bars are fine, but the supplied inserts were rubbish. So I replaced the inserts with some of a better make. It is perfectly possible to buy single inserts; for instance from Greenwood, ArcEuroTrade, J&L and Cutwel.

 

The boring bars I bought don’t look like any of the current RDG offerings. I’d be wary of buying indexable tooling from some ME suppliers without knowing exactly what the insert code is; it may be an obscure one you can only buy from said supplier! Find out what it is first and see if it is in the J&L catalogue.

 

Regards,

 

Andrew

[John CoatesParticipant @johncoates48577]

Posted by Les Jones 1 on 30/11/2011 08:45:44:

Arc Euro (and probably other suppliers) sell blank end morse taper arbors. I have considered this option to make a tailstock die holder. I have also considered just making one to fit in a chuck.

I thought of this Les and bought one but the machinable stub is too short for the slide rod for my design of die holder (double ended for different diameter dies and about 3″ long)

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Arc Euro (and probably other suppliers) sell blank end morse taper arbors. I have considered this option to make a tailstock die holder. I have also considered just making one to fit in a chuck.

 

Les.

[David LittlewoodParticipant @davidlittlewood51847]

Diamond wheels are the modern, and superior, alternative to green grit for sharpening tungsten carbide tools, for example one of these: Diamond wheels

 

David

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

Arc euro have a deal on it at the moment and are selling it for £799 with extras. I am interested in a mill and are now considering the Chester Eagle25 (belt drive), SiegX2 (belt) but this X3 looks interesting too, though the gears seem a potential problem.

Dave

[michael coleParticipant @michaelcole91146]

I have allways been inpressed with the Arc Eurotrade adverts in the magazines.Lots of information about the products. Very good this month with the thread lock stuff almost as good as some as the articles.

 

Mike

I have nothing to do with Arc Eurotrade, being only a very very small customer.

[AESParticipant @aes]

Thanks Neil,

 

Having now read your posts (and the other connected ones) thoroughly I now realise your motor went “phut” too. Really sorry about that. And to be ripped off by an internet “spiv” just adds insult to injury (even more so as he was as a pensioner!).

 

I assume you’re going ahead with a 3 phase set up now? That’s something I’ve been toying with, especially as here in Switz 3 phase is virtually a standard in all houses, inc my own (amongst other things, used for dishwashers, washing machines, etc). But at present I’m waiting for my own minilathe standard electronics set up to go bang before I do anything on that idea. But so far so good. “Touch wood”.

 

But just in case the motors and inverter idea doesn’t work for you, I’m sure you already know that Little Machine Shop in USA (plus, I think Arc Euro in UK) can both help with an “original” replacement motor. As above I’ve not bought a motor from either but loads of other stuff and found both excellent in every respect. Usual disclaimers; here are the links, just in case:

 

http://www.littlemachineshop.com

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk

 

Thanks for the info on the tangential tool holder, very interesting. But for now I think I’ll buy (not enough time at home to get all I want to do done, never mind making tooling).

 

I can’t imagine that you’ll need it, but if you want some pix of that “electronics protector” (plus a cut up kitchen seive to protector the motor itself), just ask.

 

Best of luck

 

Krgds

AES

 

 

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Sounds like a pretty standard chuck to arbor arrangement to me. Just use a pair of wedges betwen the back of the chuck and the shoulder on the arbor. I’ve just bought a pair of wedges from Arc Euro Trade. They work a treat. Mind you, if the chuck has been on the B6 taper for a while it might need a fair old bit of wellie (sorry to be technical) to get it moving. Perhaps a drop of penetrating oil overnight, if it’s particularly stubborn.

 

Regards,

John

 

 

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Never heard then called that but if you search for ratchet handles or indexable handles you will find loads of hits.

 

Some here [ blatent commercial post ]

 

Indexable handles

 

John S.

[michael coleParticipant @michaelcole91146]

John I understand that you will take payment in kippers. Any possibltiy of converting ARC to the new money standard. ( Safer than Euro’s)

 

Mike

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

Hi

 

Knew I had seen a unit with the clamping bar as standard. Its being sold by Arc as a Tail Stock V Adaptor here. Gives you more hands free to field the unexpected.

 

Martin

[S.D.L.Participant @s-d-l]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 18/11/2011 10:30:38:

An open request to John Stevenson:
Would you please suggest to ARC, that they might offer a version with either UNF or BSF threads, and the appropriate clearance holes?
… This would make a Good Thing even Better.

MichaelG.

 

 

The choice of clearance whole size is down to the designer, it can be as close as you want with the proviso that the location of any holes has to be more accurate,

 

Why would anyone design a revised / new product to us a screw that has been obsolete for 30 years or more (BSF).

 

They look good to me as all of Johns other products for Arc-Euro do, Ordered mine as soon as they were flagged here.

 

Steve Larner

[BogstandardParticipant @bogstandard]

I personally don’t give a monkey’s nuts, if something is worth bringing to the attention of others, then so be it. I’m not paid to do it, but a lot of people benefit from it, which is what forums should be about.

 

On the forums, I reckon over the last six months I have brought to the attention of other members about a dozen items, maybe more, no matter where the source be from, as long as it is normally freely available and from the UK, unless it is something really special.

 

A few examples from the top of my head, a 9″ slotted Myford faceplate from RDG to fit the Myford (this fits on the adaptor of my 6″ RT and effectively makes it into a 9″ one), a compact electric hoist from Lidl, for lifting heavy bits in the shop, digiverns from the same source, Richon Tools for cheap cutters etc etc, and now these very handy little blocks.

 

I have been thanked many times for bringing such items to peoples attention, and they have gone out and purchased them.

 

I don’t know how many of these blocks Arc Euro has in stock (and they are not available from anywhere else) but I am sure that from the reaction from people I have let know, they just might be getting short of stock sometime soon. In fact, I have just bought a second set of each yesterday, as I personally have found a good use for them in my own shop.

 

 

John

[BogstandardParticipant @bogstandard]

I don’t know if anyone else has noticed, but Arc Euro has a new piece of kit on the market.

 

How many of you have 321 blocks and find them very limited in use because they are not made correctly plus the fact that they are not ideal for use in a normal milling vice.

 

Well John Stevenson has come up with a design that solves most of the problems, the first is that they CAN bolt together to make those small angle plates or T-tops. The second and most important thing for me is that they have been thought through and made to sizes that can be easily used in a vice, a thing that the 321 blocks couldn’t really do.

 

New Blocks

 

I can’t wait to get delivery of mine, so that I can put them through their paces.

 

John

[Steve GarnettParticipant @stevegarnett62550]

Arc Euro Trade do a cheaper MT3 test bar for £50. We have one at work, and I’ve compared the relative accuracy of my (roughly £90) Arrand, and this, and I have to say that you get what you pay for. The Arc one isn’t bad, but it’s not a patch on the Arrand.

 

Yes the Arrand is a bit on the short side, but even over the length you get you can make very accurate measurements with some confidence. And if you can get your tailstock accurately aligned, you can extend the measurement range by placing it between centres (assuming you have a good headstock centre, that is) and reversing it.

 

If you use the Arrand for Rollie’s Dad’s method you may run into a few problems, especially if your headstock is in good condition. If it’s locked into a clean taper, then essentially you won’t be able to: a) spot any difference in the diameter from one end to the other, and b) be able to measure any eccentricity – it’s too damned good! What you will find is that with a dial gauge on the carriage aligned exactly at 90 degrees to the vertical, you’ll just detect the combined error of any misalignment of the the headstock, and wear in the ways – as a direct measurement. Chances are that if you are running on a V bed (ie not a Myford), then it will be the headstock misalignment that constitutes most of what you’ve measured. Then you have the whole rigmarole of working out where the real error is, what’s caused it and whether you can do anything about it.

 

Every time I think about this, I imagine the nightmare scenario where the headstock is misaligned, this is mistaken for bed twist and corrected appropriately. And that’s the snag with Rollie’s Dad’s method – this really could happen, because you have only averaged diameter references – no absolute. When it comes to the crunch, I think that the test bar is your only real path to salvation.

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Richard,

 

I can take a 3mm cut on my mini lathe, ARC euro used to have a video of me plunging a parting tool into a 2″ diameter MS bar, without chatter on their website. Yes I /have/ done the bearing swap, but nothing more than careful setting up , not the rebuild you describe.

 

Neil

 

[Keith Wardill 1Participant @keithwardill1]

Hi, Richard,

 

We don’t have Beau-max in Arad, but we do have several large DIY warehouses of German origin (Obi, Praktiker). These are identical in layout and services to the German ones (I lived in Germany for 25 years), right down to the cutting equipment installed in the wood departments. Both stores will (sometimes) cut the wood to size for you (depends on which employee is on duty that day) – this is still a risky business – Romanian millimetres seem to be elastic compared to those on my ruler, so it is safer to specify the sizes as bigger than actually required. The clincher comes after they have cut it – you still have to pay for the whole sheet!. I found this out very shortly after I arrived here. Buying the whole sheet was not that expensive, but it was a b….r to get home, and I wasn’t going to leave two thirds of the sheet in the store! – it explains why nearly everyone I know around here has a circular saw

 

Buying planed ‘dry’ timber is even more difficult – you have to get an itemised receipt of what you bought – not a till receipt – they usually have to be written out in longhand by one specific employee (which can be a bit like the old joke of being sent for a long wait). Apparently this is to protect you and the shop in the event the police stop you on the way home – then you can ‘prove’ you bought the timber legitimately instead of stealing it. Green (highly suitable for warping) timber does not need this receipt – go figure!. Needless to say, they don’t sell much timber.

 

My experiences with UK postal charges have originated with the suppliers – I have had some really crazy quotes to send to Europe, compared with the same companies shipping within UK, so I get them to send it to my brother, who then trots down the local post office, and sends it simple parcel post – it has always so far worked out much cheaper – so my gripe is with the suppliers. When I have queried their prices, I have been told ‘It is for post and PACKING, sir – we have to make sure it is packed OK and isn’t damaged in transit’, so some packing can cost a fortune, it appears (…..but not when sent from Germany, it seems). Perhaps someone in business can justify this?

It is also possible to buy various solders here made by a German company called Rolot (I think they also sell in UK). They have many different types, for plumbing and other purposes, and there are several which are marketed under similar descriptions as you mention. The packages usually state the intended use, and give things like melting temperatures, but I have to say I have never had much luck with them – there does not seem to be anything with the characteristics of Easyflow. I did find one which appeared to melt at the same temperature as Easyflow, covered with a very pale yellow flux. I finally did get it to melt using an oxy/gas flame, but no way will it run into a joint – it looks like the legendary chickensh*t produced by novice welders. I usually end up ordering from a model supply company in Germany. Thanks for your kind offer – OK at the moment, but later would be good. If there is anything you think I might get around here for you, please e-mail.

 

For sure people in the UK don’t know when they have a good deal!

 

[adyParticipant @ady]

Unfortunately the only way to do things tends to be this kind of route.

 

I don’t think there are any single click systems because there are bandwidth issues with external sites, so unless you have your own personal site with uploaded pictures the alternative is to upload a picture to an internal part of the ME site and then point to it.

 

Linking to a picture on another site is the internet equivalent of your neighbour plugging his TV into one of your house sockets. (bandwidth theft)

 

The uploading procedures tend to be picky for various security reasons, a system which is too simple leaves itself open to exploitation by naughty people.

 

Ebay has moderately simple automated systems for a user, but ebay users have given ebay all their personal details, and these are independently confirmed through a users bank account.

 

Automated systems which operate on the net get challenged in the courts, and since the net is a global system you can be challenged in any court in Europe, the USA ad-infinitum.

There was a wonderful little app tool a few years ago which told you where your personal site ranked on google when a search was made.

Simplicity itself, idiot proof, and downloaded by thousands.

Click click insert site name click – your ranking is-no 1256

Google challenged it in the US courts and won.

Edited By ady on 15/10/2011 07:32:16

[SkarvenParticipant @skarven]

Hi,

This is a LONG post, so if You have no interest in lubricating oils, skip it!

Having bought a Chineese mill Tongli ZX45 Super some time ago, I wanted to change the gear oil, and after reading the manual ended up with something like Shell SAE 68. This is obviously wrong, as the SAE numbers goes in 5’s. After a little searching on the internet, I found it probably means ISO 68. That was not easy to find around here, so after a few phonecalls to Shell, Mobil… with no results, I went to a Petrol station where I earlier have found unusual things. The guy had never heard of an oil named xxxx-68, but while searching his store he suddenly shouted “Hi, there it says 68!” It was a 10 Litre can of Statoil CompWay 68. (You wouldn’t believe the amount of dust on this can.) This is a special Air Compressor oil with the following characteristics:

 

CompWay 68 is recommended for all types of stationary
piston compressors. This oil has been approved by companies
such as Atlas Copco and meets the requirements set forth in
DIN 51506 VDL. Its approval per the Pneurop Oxidation Test
(POT) confirms its excellence in fighting carbon deposits.
ADVANTAGES
CompWay 68 is highly oxidation-stable and fights carbon

deposits.

 

The rest goes in a new post!

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

My first VFD came with a built in filter. However, this tripped the 30mA protection on my consumer unit so I swapped the VFD for one without a filter. Works a treat but every time I use the lathe it upsets my modem/router. Can anyone recommend a filter that does not have sufficient earth leakage to upset the trip? ArcEuro do one, has anybody any experience with this?

 

cheers,

 

Rod

[SteambuffParticipant @steambuff]

 

ArcEuro have the ones for the Sieg … (or they did when I got my spare one last month

 

Dave

 

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Kiaran, you never use teh emergency stop … until the day you need it!

 

Also, when I had the ‘wrong’ pot fitted I had to take huge care to make sure the machine was switched off , because there was always the danger of it leaping into motion.

 

I needed one of these N/C switched pots for my Mill (same PCB, essentially).

 

> Omeg ltd for instance will make them to order in a small quantity

> (but its a bit expensive if you only need one !!!)

I rang them up to ask about singles and they very kindly sent me a free sample!

 

I don’t suppose they will do they every day if you all ring up at once, but if one person does…

 

Or perhaps Arc Euro or similar could buy in a few dozen as stock?

 

Neil

 

Edited By Stub Mandrel on 08/10/2011 18:47:47

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

What sort of T.I.R. did you get with those ER25 collets.

I bought a 2MT ER25 collet chuck & a set of collets from Ebay seller “onlineseller68” in Hong Kong. The collets came in blue & yellow boxes similar to those that Arc Eurotrade supply. Delivery was a couple of weeks. I can’t recall the total price now, but IIRC it was less than half the price quoted by the UK retailers.

I checked runout in my Super 7 spindle on a 10mm carbide endmill held in the appropriate collet – runout measured on the tool shank close to the chuck was the same as I measure on the front of the taper in the spindle nose at around 0.0002″ TIR

 

That is close enough for my requirements !

 

HTH

 

Nigel B.

[The Merry MillerParticipant @themerrymiller]

I might just do that Norman.

 

I have a 2MT nose adaptor for my rotary tables that will let me use them on the mill.

 

Incidentally, I was also going to make the 5C style square and hex holders for indexing milling cutters for regrinding the cutting teeth only.

This would have the Myford nose thread and would be bored out to take a shortened ARC-EURO 1″ O.D. sleeve with a 2MT bore.

In fact that would take the imperial collets as well.

 

It’s looking good Norman.

 

Len. P.