Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Richard Willcox 1Participant @richardwillcox1]

I’ve tried most things with this DRO. Warco to their credit sent me some instructions on how to do a complete reset, but as the boot-up section fails to complete I cannot use it. I’ve opened up the box and everything smells OK, and there are no signs of damage to the boards . Unfortunately there is no means of giving it a hard set-set. I have emailed Easson Europe this afternoon, hoping they will perhaps do a service exchange. If I get a postive responce I’ll post again. I miss my DRO )

[SteambuffParticipant @steambuff]

Hi

 

4.7k is 4k7

 

Also did someone say the switch was reversed. (Closed when Off … and not  open when off) – You won’t get one of these at Maplin … I’ll check my spare switch/pot I got from ArcEuro for my Sieg Mill.

 

Dave

 

Edited By Steambuff on 06/10/2011 10:36:29

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

 

Hi Kiaran

yes thats it , the original control is linear

 

“volume” controls are logrithmic !!!!!

 

I thought I’d made a note of it in the speed control post

 

you need one from Machine Mart , Arc Euro Trade or Chester machine tools,etc that sell the lathes

 

I’m slightly distracted at the moment

since the last upgrade of my antivirus software ,I not been able post on this forum

till now

 

so far it apears the forums IT dept has not replied to my email to Diane

 

so I’ve installed windows and some another antivirus package on another drive !!

at the moment ,windows is having another go at its 50+ updates !!!!!

 

John

 

 

Edited By john swift 1 on 05/10/2011 21:36:01

[BogstandardParticipant @bogstandard]

Over the years, I have tried them all, even the real crappy carbon ones from a well known supplier who can supply almost any size to the model engineer, All I can say is you can soften them down a bit and use them to make other things out of. Almost all the taps in their full and relatively expensive kits cut oversize and the dies, undersize.

 

I have recently spent over a grand on tap & die sets, getting ready for my final fling, my other Presto tap & die carbon sets have lasted me nearly 30 years, they just don’t make them like they used to, but they are now getting rather dull and beyond resharpening. I doubt if my new ones will have to last that long.

 

I now only use two places for my threading equipment, the first is Arc Euro, their HSS serial metric tap sets are fantastic value for the quality you get. The other is the Tap & Die company.

 

Their HQS ones look expensive, but in the long run, or if you buy in bulk, they will far outlast anything else for the price, especially if cutting a lot of stainless steel. They cut stainless as well as a normal tap will go through brass.

 

http://www.tapdie.com/

 

If I am doing a large production job, I buy the taps and dies in bulk, and they come out at around £2 to £3 each. I hardly ever break a tap or die, that is because I always use a very good quality high pressure lubricating oil, and at the first sound of a squeak during cutting, it is got rid of.

 

I suppose it all depends on how much threading you do.

If you only do the odd one now and again, then treat yourself to some HSS ones, but if like me, where I could be doing hundreds a day, then the quality jobbies are the way to go.

 

 

John

[Peter Wood 5Participant @peterwood5]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

I have located LS 2mm & 3mm screw shank slot drills but at outrageously expensive prices – like £34 for one off each after P&P and VAT. Surprisingly Weldon shank can be obtained much cheaper.

 

I am now thinking that a cheap 6mm MT3 end mill holder from Arceurotrade and Weldon type slot drills might be the answer. Still expensive for six small slots.

 

Hey ho – you can’t take it with you!

 

Peter

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Hi Les,

 

Ooops – I posted this as a comment to your reply to HH by mistake.

 

That diagram is exactly what I was looking for. It makes sense now, although it doesn’t mention that pulling CLK high in normal mode zeros the scales.

 

I have been entering ‘max hold’ mode without understanding what it was, and thinking I had lost synch with the unit or something!

 

I tried re-reading the leaflet that came with the scales; a masterpice of mis-translated mis-direction!

 

The two other scales simply toggle in and out of fast mode, and yes you can’t zero in fast mode (the one thing the leaflet does explain properly).

 

I use the Atmel AVR micros, for the display and tacho a TINY2313, but I’ve used a fair few different ones now. Next to me is a lttle Arrex Yeti robot – with a MEGA8 in it, I bought it partly as a way of learning ‘c’, as I normally use assembler.

 

Yeti page on Arrex website

 

Thanks to Steve too. The connectors mentioned were available from Arc Euro, they are just copper springs on a plastic block and don’t work very well. I soldered my cables in place and filled the holes with hot melt.

 

One thing I did, which I haven’t seen anyone else do, is fit the X-axis readout behind the table under some thin 1″x1″ aluminium angle. It seems to stay swarf free and it keeps cables out of the way and I can still add stops on the front of the table.

 

Neil

[Anonymous]

Posted by Adam Gregory 1 on 30/09/2011 21:22:09:

Hi

May be a daft question but when using taps do you have to use the second or botton to get to final thread size or should the taper get to final thread size

 

 

An interesting question; and one on which it has proved difficult to get a definitive answer. The only reference I can find to the taper tap being undersize is in the WPS book ‘Drills, Taps and Dies’ by Tubal Cain. None of my other books, or the manufacturers’ websites, mention it.

 

From a practical point of view I have never had a problem using just the taper tap to produce a ‘to size’ thread, thru-hole or blind. If thread depth is limited in a blind hole, for soft materials like aluminium, low carbon steel or cast iron, I follow the taper tap with the bottoming tap. I rarely, if ever, use 2nd taps. If a blind hole is too shallow to start with a taper tap then I use a spiral flute machine tap by hand. This will cut a thread to within one or two pitches of the bottom of the hole in one go. I do quite a lot of machine tapping, so I have spiral flute taps to hand anyway.

 

The ‘progressive’ taps mentioned by Mike are also known as serial taps. As stated they cut a deeper thread with each tap. So it is essential to use all the taps in sequence. I’ve

never had the need to use serial taps, but I understand they are intended for tough materials, like some stainless steels. The only place I am aware of that sells serial taps in common sizes is ArcEuroTrade.

 

Regards,

 

Andrew

Edited By Andrew Johnston on 01/10/2011 10:46:17

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

Something like this is very useful too http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Hand-Tapping-Fixture

 

You can make a similar contraption from a modified portable drill stand.

 

 

Martin.

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi Ronald,

 

I have a very good Boxford Mk2 BUD, these machines are extremely well built and robust. If you can get an ex school or college one they will probably have had very little use, especially in the last 20 years as the curriculum changed. They were usually well maintained and serviced regularly during their years of ‘hardest’ work (usually making very small projects), either by dedicated craft teachers or their technicians. You often get a good level of basic equipment with them. There is often some superficial damage such as dings and scrapes due to inexperienced pupils but it is usually not serious.

 

Having said that, I also have a Chinese lathe from Warco – a WM 280V-F and it has proved to be a very accurate, robust and well made machine. I recently retrieved an old unfinished project which had a component with concentric diameters needing some turning and boring to finish. I had been expecting to have to use a 4 jaw for concentricity but I secured one of the turned diameter into the fitted 3 jaw as a test and on clocking it was less than 0.01 mm out of true. It was certainly good enough to complete the particular component.

 

I have used the lathe quite a lot now as the variable speed is time saving (only one belt to change – from low to high range). As an aside, my wife made me a coffee the other day and left it on the flat upper surface of the tailstock. When I noticed it was there I was turning at a relatively high speed and was about to stop to remove the offending drink when I noticed that there was not a ripple on the surface of it from any vibration, I was impressed.

 

Further although I initially stripped and inspected the lathe as others have suggested I had no problems with included casting sand or loose gibs etc etc that others seem to have suffered and it came at a very good price for it’s spec and level of equipment. Also after serious consideration for months, I ordered it from Warco at an exhibition and managed to get a good amount of extra tooling thrown in.

 

As modelling is my hobby I don’t have to make money from it as some on the forum do, so the Chinese lathe is perfectly adequate for my needs and I don’t need the supposedly superior European products at inflated prices. So it depends on your needs both now and in the future as well as your purse.

 

Just my observations from a personal viewpoint and experience,

 

Best regards

 

Terry

[JonParticipant @jon]

I have the Clarke lesser RF25 that is now redundant the last 7 years. This was fitted properly with the scales and remote 3 axis readout early 2000.

Some of my best work have been with this small machine, phenonimally accurate within 1/4″ at 100 yards.

Scale type ok if no liquids are being used. Water will find its way any where, mine were covered and all three packed up. Mind the price has substantially dropped in 11 years.

Warco used to do a 3 axis readout £150 inc the leads to attach to scales. The only others at time were the single or double at bottom of this link

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Digital-Readouts

 

What i would do if you want vertical accuracy is to make up a quill clamp and mount vernier off that direct to casting. Mine doubled up as coolant feed with tap.

 

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Would’nt mind a freeby, havn’t had one here for years, think the last one was a 6″ rule. The catalogues (Arc Euro Trade, Reeves, and Proxxon) are actually very handy, I often look them up when a subject relating to them comes up on the web site so that I know what is being talked about. That welding book looks interesting. Ian S C

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi there

Thank you for the info, and you JS.

The capstan is straightforward, I just wondered what tooling was available from new.

 

My workshop is just about complete now.

It comprises

Myford ML7R lathe

Tom Senior light vertical mill

Myford C7 capstan

Arc Euro Trade KX1 CNC mill

Sealy 12 speed bench drill

Oldak tapping machine

Power cutoff bandsaw.

Tooling and equipment for above

 

regards David

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Isn’t the Comet a Sieg C6 and Arceurotrade sell a QCTP for it…

 

Steve

[Steve GarnettParticipant @stevegarnett62550]

Posted by Sid Herbage on 05/09/2011 23:20:31:

If the drawings are being produced in North America, that simply isn’t true. The US and (mostly) Canada are, and have been, pretty much exclusively 3rd angle and don’t have the 1st/3rd history that I understand has existed in the UK and many parts of Europe.

 

 

I think you may have missed the point I was making – this isn’t about how you were trained at all. It’s simply about how you handle the part when visualising it. One 90 degree turn to the right is way easier to do than a 270 degree one! It’s a short twist in the direction your hand actually wants to go in. Same thing with your left hand.

 

And we never had a first/third angle history here at all. Until the Americans insisted on doing it differently, we simply used first angle, and there was no issue about it. And whilst I haven’t researched the history of this very thoroughly, I suspect that the American decision to use 3rd angle was as much to do with simply wanting to be different as anything. Doesn’t make it better, though… In fact I look at it very much like the VHS/Betamax videotape thing – Betamax was technically better, but VHS won out by marketing, etc. Admittedly there isn’t anything inherently ‘better’ about either drawing standard – it’s just that when you look at how it came about (which is essentially what I described), it perhaps makes more sense as to why we use it.

 

There’s a good chance that we’ve been doing drawings longer like this than the Americans have, as well. After all, it was in the UK that the Industrial Revolution started…

[Anna JablonskaParticipant @annajablonska79888]

Oh dear, it seems a small cat has found herself amongst the pigeons….

I do not really believe that a lady should “validate” herself, I mean would you ask your wives / girlfriends / lovers to do so ??

But so that we can move on to more serious issues, I will.

Born in Wirksworth of Polish parents. Raised in Spondon. Father was a pilot, among others with 303 Polish Squadron. 5 ½ kills to his credit. Later was chief metallurgist at Ley’s Malleable Castings and then at Rolls-Royce aero in Derby. He developed the alloy that was used in the pioneering process of blow moulding the turbine blades for the RB-211.

I studied architecture. I ran a successful model-making, engineering and prototype development business until I emigrated to “Eastern Europe” (as some prefer to call it). I subsequently worked in advertising, for Leo Burnett and Saatchi & Saatchi. I moved to Romania in 2001 and was appointed Managing Director a position I held for 9 years – until in 2010 I decided enough was enough.

I am married with 4 children, and a great husband. My interest in engineering started many years ago…

I will send photo’s of my machines, not a problem, but for now can list (in no particular order)

1. TSA 16 – small and compact Polish Lathe about 20” between centres, with a nice gearbox. I restored it last year.

2. Elliott 10M shaper – “Lazarus” who with the help of my wonderful friends from England is slowly being brought back to life. Repainting later this year.

3. Myford Super 7B – with power cross feed. I bought this from Myfords when I was model-making….This I will be selling very soon as I need room….

4. Myford ML7 – Ti-Leva – my fathers

5. Myford ML7 – that I use as a second operation lathe

6. Tom Senior Milling machine with a really wacky head….

7. Raglan Miller – great for those small jobs….

8. TSA 16-B which is like the other one I have, but with more oooph, and a bit bigger

9. Progress 2G – drills – 2 off

10. Fobco’s – 3

11. Meddings drill-tru – 1

12. Boxford AUD – recently purchased in an auction…to replace the Super 7….

13. 4 Rapidor Hacksaws

14. Ajax Tapper – that I still have to master

15. Quorn Grinder

16. Clarkson Grinder

17. Elliot Jig Borer….that I feel needs a new home, as I do not use it enough….

I am currently in the process of building a garden railway and a 7 ¼ scale Tich to go on it.

I run a farm….which is where I live…. I keep pigs / chickens / 2 cows

I drive a land-rover series and also a Discovery. I would love to get a Mini-Cooper and restore it….I fly aeroplanes.

I have an Ursus C330M tractor with attachments.I’m also building my own furnace as I would like to try some metal casting this year.

I enjoy cooking, watching tennis, swimming, relaxing, cycling, mushroom picking.

I look forward to solving engineering problems….or rather finding a solution to something difficult.

continued……

Edited By Anna Jablonska on 06/09/2011 00:12:22

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Hi Pailo,

 

Sort of did this on my Sieg C6, not a “back gear” but added an extra ratio to give me torque at the bottom end – it was easy to do on Sieg, but part of that was down to ArcEurotrade being excellent on spares provisioning.

 

The Sieg C6 was in two versions, a conventional six speed belt drive and a variable 0-2000rpm known as the C6B.

 

ArcEurotrade got me the C6 components so I could add the conventional belt drive back into my C6B! Bit of a cheat really but it’s made my C6B very versatile.

 

I think the photos are in my albums on this site, if not I can soon do that.

 

Steve

[G WalkerParticipant @gwalker75501]

I have followed Tony Jeffree’s MEW articles, and built a 4 axes stepper motor drive unit. The plan is to fit CNC first to a lathe, and then eventually a mill. The drive unit is housed back to back with a desk top PC in an enclosed MDF box, to give some protection from coolant spray and dust. (A fan provides ventilation.)

 

The unit has worked perfectly in a small test rig. However, on the bench a basic problem has occured; the unit is not a good fit between the lathe and mill! This means that instead of having the unit central with cables 1 – 1.5m long, the unit must be placed to one side requiring some cables 3m long.

 

I have spent a little time searching the web looking for comment on CNC cable problems. In summary, most problems were concerned with not using shielded cable for signal & power cables, and not grounding the outer once at the drive unit end. I could not see any problems relating to cable length. (Do the adjectives shielded, screened, shrouded & sheathed all mean the same thing?)

 

Tony Jeffree’s design uses shielded cable. For signal cable I have used screened audio cable from Maplin. The power cable is RS 4 core shrouded, 16 x 0.2mm. The largest stepper motor is an ArcEuro 220Ncm rated 2.5A/phase.

 

I would appreciate any comments about problems that are likely to occur if I use 3m power cables.

 

Thank you

 

George W

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

Posted by pgrbff on 02/09/2011 10:24:40:

Thank you.

When I was browsing reamers there was a large difference in cost. Will spending more make the job easier or will the more expensive reamer simply stay sharp longer?

Will a hand reamer do in a lathe, or do I need some other type?

 

Should the steel prove to hard, what symptoms will I observe, so that I know to stop.

 

 

Arceurotrade have the 6mm reamer you need for less than a fiver.

 

As I said in my previous post, just test the hardness by seeing if you can scratch the pinion bore with a file or scriber etc. If the tool skids along the surface without starting to bite, then it’s going to be too hard to cut with a reamer. No need to press hard when doing the test, as a sharp tool will cut without undue effort.

 

Martin.

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Phil, I’v got the Arc Euro Trade catalogue No7 (latest I think), the Restore rust remover is 14.50 pound for 250ml, and 24.50 pound for 500ml, the gel is the same price, proberbly cheaper on the website. They suggest using the Restore Pre-Clean Degreaser.

Ian S C

[Phil PParticipant @philp]

Terry

 

Looking at the Arc Euro Trade website, it looks like it has gone up in price a bit since you bought yours.

It is now listed at £11.95 for the small size to make 5 litres, or £19.50 for the 10 litre size.

 

I might give it a try sometime myself when I have used up all my evapo-rust.

 

Phil

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi,

 

After reading the information on the Evaporust website it seems to me to be very similar to the Restore products sold by Arc Eurotrade. Even the final dipping to prevent future rusting is the same. The Restore product (not the gel) costs £7.50 and makes 5 litres. I can thoroughly recommend it after personal experience.

Regards

 

Terry.

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Try a set of serial taps from Arceurotrade.

 

These are tapered as per normal taps but they are also undersize so you have to use all three to get to the full thread size, work ace on stainless and aluminium bronze as the first and second tap hardly take anything out per pass.

 

John S.

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

The two chucks at the top have a taper 77mm long. The top one is an autolock type from Warco, the other chuck an ER32 type from Arceurotrade. The Glanze mill has a taper 89mm long which exceeds the 3-1/16 quoted above by some way. The parallel section is not threaded, so that can go without a problem. Depending on how hard the taper is, I could turn the first 10mm of the taper parallel and then it will fit no problem.

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

[BogstandardParticipant @bogstandard]

BTW, Arc Euro have a great piece of kit for those that need the tang for auto eject on the tailstock or drilling machine, but also want to use them in machinery that has a drawbar.

 

I have been using these for a couple of years now, and just having a few in stock can get you out of sticky situations.

 

Half way down the page

 

Screw in tangs

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

If it’s a Sieg X1 type then this is probably where I would start

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/Model-Super-X1L-Mill

 

Set of MT2 collets and a drawbar, job done.

 

Steve