Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Wolfie on 07/01/2012 22:11:20:

I suspect you are right. Thanks for that Ketan it looks similar-ish.

 

Am I likely to need bearing presses?? And does it also follow that replacing chinese bearings with taper bearings will improve matters??

 

Still ain’t found the foxes

Hi Wolfie,

To establish how close it is to an old/original X2, go to this link and open up the exploded diagram as suggested near the top of the page.

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/X2-Mini-Mill-Spares

Broadly speaking, if the head is similar, what JasonB suggests is correct, and hopefully, just tightening the nuts which might have become loose in transit, or incorrectly assembled, could solve your problem. Before tightening them, take them out and have a look at them, to avoid cross threading, if you feel that this might be a concern.

 

A bend in the spindle is rare. Too tight spindle diameter tolerance could effect how easily the bearings were/or not mounted onto the spindle, and how they are sitting on the shaft/in the casting. Assembly could be an issue. If this is an issue, then a puller of some description will be required, and you may or may not wish to rectify this part of the assembly yourself or send back to Amadeal to solve for you, if you still want the machine and not want to send it all back.

 

Replacing bearings is a secondary issue to be considered only if you are not happy with the results. I don’t know what bearings are inside your machine. Have a look on the parts list and state what bearing are there – it does not matter if it is a Chinese bearing number or an SKF number. We can then figure it out.

 

If they are ball raced bearings – doesn’t matter if they are Chinese or European in this particular instance. You can put a better pre-load on taper roller bearings or angular contact ball bearings then you can on ball bearings. So, in this respect, the results will be improved if you use these bearings over ball raced bearings.

 

If you have 6206-2RS bearings inside, you could replace them with 30206 taper roller bearings. We have not tried this, but we are aware that others have, with improved results. the concern here is that 30206s are wider than 6206-2RS, so some modification to a spacer may be required, but as we have not tried this on an X2, I cannot say for sure.

 

We will be offering 7206B-2RS sometime this month. Dimensionally, they are same as 6206-2RS. They will allow faster running than 30206 taper rollers, they are sealed. 30206s are not.

 

Ketan at ARC.

 

 

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

I received a letter yesterday from a dear uncle who has a professional engineering background, in which he commented on my research for a mill. Although he is a prolific wood machinist, some things resonated with metal milling. He felt that importance of weight and rigidity was more relevant if taking deep cuts, expected more in commercial than hobby work. This applies equally to plastic gears; if we go in hoping to take 1/2″ cuts each time then the thing will shear gears! Before the gears shear, the machine will surely be making complaining sounds and I suppose part of our skill is to not be too heavy. Arc Euro sells gears that may suit X2 similar machine at Old X2 Mill Spares but you can also get a Belt Drive Kit if later on you want to do so. Short links!  Time to give my wee lassy her breakfast!

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 04/01/2012 06:50:40

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

If, as I suspect, this machine is the same as the Warco MiniMill, then you may well receive in the toolkit TWO drawbars, one for 12mm and the other for 3/8 inch imperial.

 

I have the Warco MiniMill and suggest the following:

 

Depending on your requirements, buy a set of MT3 direct collets at around £7 each. These fit directly into the spindle with very little sticking out thus giving the maximum stiffness to the milling cutter. It also removes all the messing around with ER adaptors and collets etc.

 

There are two ranges, metric & imperial, but if you are like me, you will standardize on one set, eg metric. In any case, you can always buy individually as the need arises.

 

One advantage of the direct collets is that being as close to the head as they are does give an increase in the available daylight under the head. This may be important. (Later on after you have realised just how rubbish that side spring is, and you have discovered the gas strut modification, you will then be able to gain a further slight increase in the daylight available!)

 

My experience with the Warco machine, and a friends machine is that the plastic gears inside don’t last too long initially. They are ok once you’ve smashed a set because you are then careful, but just in case, there are metal gears available from Arc Euro Trade: look for C3 spares where they are shown as C3/X2 gears.

 

Another thing you may wish to check is the fine feed function – to see if it actually works. Of course, it may just be that both myself and my friend were unlucky in that ours did not work properly initially. Mind you, there is a thread elsewhere on this site by MarcuSweden I think who also had this problem – and others.

 

Anyway, I don’t wish to put the damper on your purchase, although I think I’ve now done just that, but as someone else said on another forum elsewhere: “Treat it as a kit of parts, fettle it up, and it will be a decent little machine”. Of course, having never seen Amadeal’s equipment, I could well be completely unjustified in saying the above: he may well have sorted out these little niggles.

 

Good luck,

 

Peter G. Shaw

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hello David Haynes,

 

I think that your long links have pushed the page wide so that the posts cannot be read properly. It is a problem with this site. To add links like these, type in a keyword such as ‘Chronos’ , highlight it and then add your link. It then looks like this:

 

Chronos

 

This will link to the same page without the widening of the posts. Don’t worry, it happens often on here, especially as there is no ‘How To’ advice.

 

 

Hi Wolfie, 

 

Arc Eurotrade do reasonably priced versions of the ER range of chucks.  I went for ER25 as it goes up to 16 mm which is the largest shank cutter I use.  You can also buy a lathe collet chuck to match and use the same collets for turning accurately.  Saves having several sets of different collets. 

 

The beauty of the ER (and similar) systems is that one collet will hold a range of sizes, usually a range of 1mm per collet so that with a set of collets all the sizes you need are covered, and metric collets will accept imperial as well because of their flexibility.

 

 

Best regards

 

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 03/01/2012 09:30:18

Edited By Terryd on 03/01/2012 09:35:51

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

Francis, firstly thank you for posting the pictures of your newly arrived milling machine, all exciting stuff! Did you have to strip it down to remove transport grease, apply running grease and generally fettle up where necessary? I known that ArcEuro recommend this for all their Sieg mills. You have mentioned the rigidity issue of Sieg tilting columns, the X3 that is supplied by Arc and Axminster does not tilt and that is one of the things that drew me to it. Finally, what surface treatment did you use for you workshop floor? It looks nice. Do you find it is robust and fit for purpose?

With best wishes

David

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Hi Mike,

 

Look at the new version on the Arc Euro website which has a brushless motor and apparently much more torque. The old style ones can blow motors if run slow at heavy load (I’ve blon a motor too many times and have now adapted my mini lathe to run off an old Hoover 0.4HP motor- virtually the same power on paper, loads more in practice.

 

But an ordinary mini-lathe will turn 4 3/8″ diameter with ease. I managed to suface this and turn it into a new cross slide using the lathe alone… yes I had to grind off the corners so it would swing inside the 7 1/8″ limit.

 

Neil:

 

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

Hello folks

 

David,

Was that the 100mm precision Toolmakers vice from ArcEuro and what size of table do you have?

 

Also, Billy which tiltable vice did you get?

 

Thanks

David

Edited By David Haynes on 29/12/2011 12:58:30

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

I would recommend the Arc Euro Trade precision Toolmakers vice.

They are excellent value for money.

No experience of the others.

regards David

 

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

This discussion gave some useful tips, but for me, the question is, what first vice would one choose for a 6″ wide table. Plenty to choose from and whilst going for a 100mm wide may not be necessary and narrower are available, I have a list here on which short comments (eg good/bad/average) would be appreciated:-

 

1.ArcEuro Radial Milling Vice 100mm £66.00

2.ArcEuro Precision Tool Vice 100mm wide £77.50

(2a.ArcEuro Precision Tool Vice 25mm wide £21.25)

3. Axminster VA Precision Milling Vice £52.28 sale

4, Axminster K4 Milling Vice £38.16 sale

5.Axminster SIEG X2 100mm Vice £40.99

6.Chronos Vertex K4 Milling Vice £82.18

7.RDG Vertex K Milling Vice £84

 

I see various folks are agrieved by poor products and a simple comment on these (and any similars) may save me and other purchasers from making the same mistakes.

Thanks

Dave

 

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

Hello Bob,

I have an ML7 with a vertical slide, not a Myford one but similar, with slotted table and double swivel. There is no micrometer dial on the vertical slide. I paid £50 for this, which I thought at the time was a bargain when the proper Myford one (with vice) was £110 from a member of my society. I managed to work out the calibration for the vertical traverse to be one revolution = 0.080″, thus 1/4 turn gave 20 thou up or down, remembering of course to go the right way; once or twice I grimaced as I went up when needing down! Much of the time I ended up measuring with the depth gauge on the vernier caliper. A lot of messing about which I would not have had with a micrometer dial . I had a few situations where the tool caught and the whole table kicked on one or other of it’s axes, even though the swivel had been tightened securely. In the end, I felt the best option would have been a vertical slide with micrometer and no tilting in either axis, much more secure and it is very rare to need to rotate the axis anyway.

 

After some years of switching between turning and milling in the lathe, with all the set up / set down time and so forth, I now have the opportunity to get a mill, research discussed here. I feel justified in this decision as I intend to do more than just my current little loco project, and hope to order a Sieg X3 from ArcEuro (non-tilting head/imperial/R8) soon.

 

(Non-tilting for rigidness, imperial because all my drawings and lathe are imperial, R8 for ease of drawbar removal)

 

Many people say the mill is not essential and much is possible with only a lathe. A friend has completed Martin Evan’s 5″ Metro without a mill and I know many others have done more, but all will admit that a mill is a big help. I should add, the Sieg X2 from ArcEuro is probably a good choice and much less than an X3.

 

With best wishes

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 28/12/2011 14:44:09

Edited By David Haynes on 28/12/2011 14:46:37

Edited By David Haynes on 28/12/2011 14:47:32

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

While we’re on an offish topic subject I have a contribution about a “Ten year rule” which aspiring model engineers may find reassuring.

The original article is bigger.

 

Teach yourself programming in 10 years. By Perter Norvig

 

Walk into any bookstore, and you’ll see how to Teach Yourself Java in 7 Days alongside endless variations offering to teach Visual Basic, Windows, the Internet, and so on in a few days or hours. I did the following power search at Amazon.com:

     pubdate: after 1992 and title: days and
      (title: learn or title: teach yourself)

and got back 248 hits. The first 78 were computer books (number 79 was Learn Bengali in 30 days). I replaced “days” with “hours” and got remarkably similar results: 253 more books, with 77 computer books followed by Teach Yourself Grammar and Style in 24 Hours at number 78. Out of the top 200 total, 96% were computer books.

The conclusion is that either people are in a big rush to learn about computers, or that computers are somehow fabulously easier to learn than anything else. There are no books on how to learn Beethoven, or Quantum Physics, or even Dog Grooming in a few days. Felleisen et al. give a nod to this trend in their book How to Design Programs, when they say “Bad programming is easy. Idiots can learn it in 21 days, even if they are dummies…..

………Researchers (Bloom
(1985), Bryan & Harter (1899), Hayes
(1989), Simmon & Chase (1973)) have shown it
takes about ten years to develop expertise in any of a wide variety of
areas, including chess playing, music composition, telegraph
operation, painting, piano playing, swimming, tennis, and research in
neuropsychology and topology. The key is deliberative
practice: not just doing it again and again, but challenging yourself
with a task that is just beyond your current ability, trying it,
analyzing your performance while and after doing it, and correcting
any mistakes. Then repeat. And repeat again. There appear to be no
real shortcuts: Even Mozart, who was a musical prodigy at age 4, took 13 more years before he began to produce world-class music.

 

http://norvig.com/21-days.html

 

 

 

[_Paul_Participant @_paul_]

Tony,

 

I have a K4 Vertex vice which is fantastic quality accurately machined and zero defects, it does lif when tightning it’s inherent in it’s design however one swift tap with a deadblow normally seats all parts, its currently sat on my Elliott 10M.

 

I have now gone for a Screwless type of vice as it has no lift at all when clamping work the downside is it’s not quite as easy to use as a “conventional” vice.

 

As a comment on Vertex apparatus in general I also have one of their BS0 dividing heads which is excellent both in quality & accurate operation.

 

Regards

 

Paul

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Seems like the Mk2 may have a bigger spindle. The 25mm bore would be right for MT4 if so get a short MT4-MT3 reducer and use commonly available tooling, ARC Euro do teh reducers.

 

J

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

I have just had an email from Axminster who have said their prices will rise significantly:-
Axminster SIEG X3/Imperial/R8 Mill Drill £996 –> £1230
Axminster ER32 Precision Collet Holder – R8 Order code: 910231 £42 –> £28
Axminster SIEG X3/Super X3 Floor Stand Order code: 210114 £191 –> £220
12mm T Slot Clamp Kit for Mills Order code: 951675 £36 –> £43

Also they now supply in early May, same as ArcEuro
Dave

[alan frostParticipant @alanfrost17805]

Where do them shaper vices go ?? I’ve had two 10Ms, neither with a vice. BBC machine tools at Carluke had,a few years back a lot of 10M vices but they wanted more than I paid for my shapers. I called in about six months ago as someone wanted a 10M vice but they had got rid of their big” hanger” of m/c tools (probably gone to China) and no 10M s.

 

By that time I had read Adrian Nicolsons article on shaper vices (homeworkshop forum) and knew that although Elliotts usually had good vices this was n’t true for the 10M vice. Adrian has a few shapers and is pretty knowledgeable (including two big Elliotts with the proper and good vices they fitted to their 14 inch shapers, and a 10M )

 

Rick’s vice seems pretty good and he’s achieving some amazingly good finishes on a modified Gingery shaper (and he’s still chasing better-the chain drive is currently under very close scrutiny ) but due to the size limitations of the Gingery I did n’t like his mounting method and he’s had to put up with milled finishes on the vice elements. I’ve suggested he runs the non-critical surfaces over a linisher.

 

I did get a very good design of rack vice with my FW mill (vice manufacturer unknown ) and I must have a look at the arc Eurotrade one you mention.

[_Paul_Participant @_paul_]

Alan thanks for that I am glad you have had better luck than I.

 

Vices! I have five shapers but alas not one original vice amongst them , I have half heartedly followed the vice topic over on the yahoo Shaper group Ricks? vice looks an interesting design but not for me.

 

I’ve just bought a 4″ screwless vice from Arc Eurotrade to try on my Elliott 10M and my mill, if its successful there are designs available for home made versions of it facets of which would seem to lean toward construction by shaper.

Didnt know Kurt’s had V form threads

 

Regards

 

Paul

 

 

 

[alan frostParticipant @alanfrost17805]

I would recommend the purchase of the Arc Eurotrade microdrill adaptor mit appropriate chuck. One of the bargains of the century if you look at what these things normally cost even from good value suppliers like J and L. No connection with any of them (or even with reality)-just a happy customer of both..

[Anonymous]

Hi Peter,

 

Is your high speed spindle the ArcEuroTrade high speed motor and associated VFD setup? If so I’d be really interested in your experiences. I keep running out of top speed on my CNC mill, particularly so when engraving. I like the look of the ArcEuroTrade high speed spindles, but there’s nothing like practical experience!

 

Best Regards,

 

Andrew

[Peter BellParticipant @peterbell11509]

Hi Everyone,

 

Thanks for all the help, that the first time that I have really understood the basics of feed and speed and been able to apply them, those tables are good as well.

 

Not having a new cutter and now that I have learned a bit being unable to wait I have found a reasonable 2mm HSS slot drill and success!

 

I have now mounted my Arc Euro high speed spindle on the side of the head so can go up a bit with the speed (12000 rpm seems ok) a bit and the blanks come out really well with clean chips. I was going to try flooding with coolant but as the brass sheet is scewed to a piece of plywood pleased I didnt.

 

Thats a cracking idea with the cutter sleeve, all small cutters look very vunerable to me especially as they get near to metal

 

Going to treat myself to some new cutters, another lesson learned on the voyage into CNCing

 

Best Regards

 

Peter

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

Interesting point from Steve re Arc Euro and Axminster. I am interested in a X3. Arc have given me 16 weeks delivery for and X3 in red and Axminster have confidently given me 8 weeks lead time for an X3 in white and £50 dearer. But for service, I have heard good first hand for Axminster and also ArcEuro. Arc do have limited spares, but the range is limited to.

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 18/12/2011 16:15:19

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Hi Gerry, if you need spares, then you might find Arceurotrade a better bet than Axminster,as they have a detailed understanding of the machines they sell and good access to their suppliers. Efficient delivery is less a test of good service than in life support when you are in a fix…

[Dennis RParticipant @dennisr]

Try some chuck removal wedges from somewhere like

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Wedges-Drifts

they work fine for me.

Dennis

[Douglas JohnstonParticipant @douglasjohnston98463]

I tried to program some pic chips a while ago and found the learning curve too steep and gave up. Recently however I discovered the picaxe website and find this system much more user friendly for non experts. Arc Euro in the UK do quite a good range of stepper motors and controllers.

Doug.

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

I don’t think that, in these economic times, any particular company tries to maximise it’s profits excessively, but I do wonder why some similar machines are so vastly different in price. But then, are they really all that similar and is there a hidden cost that you pick up to your grief in a few years. Compare

Engineer’s Tool Room BMD-20 http://www.engineerstoolroom.co.uk/bmd-20.htm,

Amadeal AMA25LV http://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/R8_Spindle.html,

Chester Champion 20V http://www.chestermachinetools.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=24,

Warco WM16 http://www.warco.co.uk/milling-machines/32-wm-16-variable-speed-milling-machine.html and

ArcEuro Sieg X3 http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/Model-X3-Small-Mill.

It is even recommended that the last of the list has a strip down preparation before use.

 

Dave

[David HaynesParticipant @davidhaynes53962]

I too am in the market for a mill . After an iterative tour I seem to have settled on the Sieg X3/imperial/R8, and have tabulated the search on http://modeleng.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=toolsandtooling&action=display&thread=6791 and discussion ensues. Also have a look at http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=35230&p=1. I have updated the table and will send a copy if you want. Sadly, the X3 Xmas offer at ArcEuro has sold out in the type I want and I will be paying more when new stock arrives in January.

Dave